Hello everyone, here is my take on a simple way to automate the spooling process. The design goal was simple : simple, frugal, straight to the point and cheap. It's ugly but it does the job

Make sure your central spool part runs true before attempting to motorize. Else you'll just melt plastic and your motor.

Bill of materials :

• M3x6 : 9
• M3x14 : 3 (M3x12 works too!)
• M3x5.7 heat inserts : 11 (I used the Ruthex ones)
• Greartisan 200RPM DC Motor (https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B071GTTSV3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
• 5.5x2.1 barrel jack female (https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B083M3RV4J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
• DC Motor control board (https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B08NTH4J3F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
• Laptop power supply (https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07YWSDK87?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
• 18 AWG Cables (silicon insulation will help with the bending angles!, PVC will be harder but works)
• Soldering iron and solder

Assembly :

• Insert heat inserts in the gearbox cover just like with the normal V-Spooler.
• Insert the 3 new inserts in the gearbox cover (there are 3 new holes on the other side)
• Install the gearbox cover just like with the normal V-Spooler
• Solder 2 cables to the poles of the DC Motor. They should be around 7 cm, but double check they can reach the DC motor controller in the housing
• Solder 2 cables to the poles of the barrel jack. They should be around 5 cm, but double check they can reach the DC controller in the housing
• Take the DC Motor and slide it into the motor housing (cylinder with 3 arms thingy). Secure it with at least 3 M3x6 screws, more is not needed but your OCD might make you put one in every hole.
• Take the adapter and shove it on the motor axle. It might take some convincing. Tap it with a heavy object, but don't go all the way. Leave at least 5 mm from the end of flat surface (refer to the pictures if unclear)
• Screw in the motor assembly to the gearbox cover using the new inserts you installed during step 2, using M3x14 or M3x12 screws.
• Slide in the electronic housing around the motor. It should slide nice and easy. Pull the cables so they reach inside the housing
• Install the barrel jack and secure it with the nut.
• Pull all the cables and screw them all accordingly on the controller's terminal (refer to the datasheet or the PCB's underside).
• Remove the “cosmetic” dial from the controller, alongside the washer and nut, leaving only the bare threaded metal.
• Remove the switch from the controller (disconnect the wire connector)
• Press fit the switch on the rectangular panel hole
• Connect back the switch onto the controller
• Slide the controller between the 2 rails in the electronics housing.
• Put the panel on electronic housing and screw it on using 4 M3x6 screws (on the sides)
• Put back the washer, nut and dial on the potentiometer.

Voilà!

Very detailled steps but hopefully you'll see it's not that difficult. The electronics housing acts as a “third leg” because the motor makes the V-spooler tip to its side. The electronic housing “spins” freely around the motor housing. I didn't do anything to lock it in place, as it's not necessary. Refer to the pictures if in doubt.