Fan Duct

1. Glue the logo on the side following the slots; you can use the template found in the "optionals" plate, but it is not essential.

2. Insert the threaded inserts into the holes in the fan duct; the temperature of the inserts must be sufficient to make them penetrate the material, but not too high to avoid deformations; 

3. Place the fan enclosure over the fan duct and join them with the four M3 screws;

If you don't want to use threaded inserts, you can glue the fan duct to the fan case using the 4 pins that are in plate 5 to align the two parts perfectly. This will not affect the ability to mount and dismount the fans.

Notes: from February 28th in the print profile you will find the fan duct with three air deflectors. If you want to print the version without baffles you see in the photo on the right, you will have to download it separately.

Fan Case

1. Insert the two 4028 fans and pass the cables and connectors through the appropriate hole until they reach the bottom of the fan duct. If you use two 4020 fans, insert above the fans the spacer that is in the optional plate of the print profile;

2. Insert the green fan Conveyor, which will keep fans locked in place. If the Conveyor goes in too easily and is easy to pull out, lock it with a couple of drops of CA glue;

4. Insert four 5x3 magnets into the appropriate holes on the top of the Fan Case, making sure the polarity is in the same direction for all magnets.

5. When you have finished all the wiring you need, place this block inside the printer in the bottom right corner; secure it with double-sided tape or screw it into the hole already present inside the printer.

Activated Carbon Case

You should use “pellet” activated carbon so as not to disperse its dust, and acid-free type to avoid corrosion of the metal parts over time. If you use “flakes” activated carbon, after placing it in the baskets let the powder fall before placing them in their container.

1. Insert four 5x3 magnets into the appropriate holes on the top of the Carbon Case and other four magnets on the opposite side. Before inserting the bottom magnets, pay attention to the polarity; when you overlap the stages the magnets should attract each other, not repel each other.

2. Put some pellets in the red basket (the one with the two handles); Fill it halfway, so as not to obstruct the passage of air. Place the green basket on top of the red one and put the activated carbon. Repeat until you have stacked all the baskets.

3. Finally insert the stacket baskets into the Carbon Case, always holding it vertically.

Notes: the 3D preview of plates 3 and 4 show the lower grids of the baskets as a solid. Grid will be generated directly from the slicer, where I have set zero upper and lower layers and an infill between 30 and 40% depending on the position of the basket.

Hepa Filter Case and air intake

1. Insert four 5x3 magnets into the appropriate holes on the top of the Hepa Case and other four magnets on the opposite side. Last four magnets must be inserted on the bottom of the Air Intake black frame. Before inserting any bottom magnets, pay attention to the polarity; when you overlap the stages the magnets should attract each other, not repel each other.

2. Insert the green filter holder into the black container, then place the filter. The expected measurements of the filter are the most common: 80x40x15 millimetres. If you need to use a filter of different sizes write me a message and I will prepare the adapters.

3. Insert the green air intake into its black container, and place it on top of the filter container.

Note (1): why did I make the upper part in two small containers (Hepa case and air intake) instead of joining the black container in one piece? Because to replace the filter you just need to detach only the air intake, and also to be able to make any developments/variants of this piece without having to reprint too many objects.

Note (2): in the print profile you will find the raised version of air intake: this for capturing the air as close as possible to the print plate. Mount this part with the lower half facing the back of the scrubber, so you can slide it under the printer black frame. If you prefer a lower version, please download the two .stp files "Air Intake (short)" and “Air Intake Conveyor (short)” from raw model files.

Optionals

Carbon and Hepa words are optionals.

If you want to use them, print the "optional" plate in the print profile. You will have all the letters you need and the templates to glue them in perfect position on the frames.

To glue them, first position the template and then introduce the letters where you will have already applied a very small amount of CA glue. Wait for the glue to dry and then gently remove the template.

Covers are another optionals.
There is a print profile with three types of covers to prevent filament debris from entering to the filter case when the fans are turned off: 

- a cover with magnetic fastening (requires four 5x3 magnets) to close the Carbon Case or the Fan Case when others upper cases are not in place;

- a cover with interlocking fastening to close the air inlet on the first low version of hepa case;

- a cover with interlocking fastening to close the air inlet on the actual raised version of hepa case; this cover also partially covers the black printer frame, but does not interfere with the movements of the print head.

Wiring
 

Feel free to wire the scrubber as you prefer, but if it helps you, I designed the fan duct to hide the cables as much as possible: under the chute there is a space to hide the fan connectors, and on the back wall there there are two diagonal holes for the power cable to come out.

I left the power cable long enough to be able to disconnect it without problems, and it remains hidden between the scrubber and the right wall of the printer. I passed it through one of the holes in the frame, and since I use a 12V external power supply for the fans, the cable comes out from the bottom of the printer passing through one of the holes already present in correspondence with the original cable glands. To do this I had to remove both the side and rear panels, but it was a good opportunity to do some cleaning ;-)

Since the two 4028 fans I used are very powerful but also noisy, I used an inexpensive dimmer to adjust the speed of the fans. I normally run them at 25% with PETG, 50% with PAHT and 75% with ASA and ABS.