Master Sword with interchangeable blades from Legend of Zelda Tears of the Kingdom by Neebick

Neebick

Props & Cosplays>Replica Weapon

Print Profile(2)

All

P1P

P1S

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

Designer

185.2 h

9 plates

4.8(129)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

1.3 h

1 plate

5.0(13)

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

930

1654

225

191

2.2 k

2.1 k

Released

Description

Update: I have added a scabbard that is designed for this Master Sword.

This one was a fun project to see if I could make a master sword that would could be all encompassing for its appearances in Tears of the Kingdom. The party trick being that the center jewel acts as a locking peg for which ever blade is inserted. It's modeled with a tight tolerance so that it will friction fit in. Just press the center of the jewel and the peg will slide out. This allows the blade to be removed. My idea was that this would be more convenient then printing and finishing 3 different hilts for each blade. Storage should be easier as well. Plus its just cool.

Glue and supports will be necessary for some parts.

I have kept tolerances tight on some parts to help with friction fitting. I've found the blades need a couple insertions before it becomes easier. I figured this was better then a wobbly blade.

Parts

Blades - Each blade is designed to be printed upright on the plate. You will need 2 center portions to make a full length blade. I have included pegs which should be glued to join all the sections. I suggest thick walls. I print with 5 walls for good measure. Really helps with flex. Use supports for the peg holes. On the restored blade, I did not include a tip since it is the same as the original blade.
Cross guard - I have sliced this 2 ways: Sideways for more vertical printing. Excellent cooling is a must. I had very slight sagging towards the top of mine due to the sharp angles of the tips. Or sliced in half for a wider print but easier details if bed adhesion and warping isn't an issue. Supports are a must for both. Focus on the interior portions and tips.
Grip - Simple part. Print with flared portion on the plate. Make sure to glue it with the cutout portion facing forward. Important for the wrap to be aligned with the cross guard.
Wrap - This is was a trickier part for me since it kept coming loose from the bed. It doesn't have a very wide base so bed adhesion is critical. Supports and brims help. Has a built in peg to lock it into the proper orientation.
Jewels and Blade surrounds - Super easy print. Glue peg into jewel with inset on the back. Glue surrounds on cross guard.
Pommel - Two parts for nicer printing. Use grip to help align while gluing halves together. Can remain removable with future upgrades...

Video Demonstration

Comment & Rating (225)

@user_735667673

Boosted

I print this blade with Bambu Lab PLA glow blue. It is utterly beyond my expectation. Nice model. Thanks to the designer。

@GantharTheWise

Boosted

Did you have any issues with the overhang portions for the cross guard? I got some overhang issues. trying now slowing down wall acc speed and maybe even slower overhang speeds. may keep the door open too

@user_735667673

Boosted

Replying to @GantharTheWise :

I tried printing this part with both tree (auto) and normal (auto) support. It got overhang issue when I used tree support. But All good with normal support. I didn't change any speed figures. It is all printed open-door. Hopefully it's gonna help.

@GantharTheWise

Boosted

I'm currently trying a print with the hilt flat under the STL section. my last print resulted in the attached picture. doors open fans at max and speed slowed. let's see how this turns out

@alex10.1997

Hello everyone, can anyone tell me exactly what settings you used to print the Warp Model? No matter what I do it doesn't work and looks like the pictures.

The designer has replied

@Neebick

It is the trickiest component due to the height and thin base. Painting on supports helps stabilize from rocking while printing. Also slowing down the print speed should help as well.

@alex10.1997

Replying to @Neebick :

Thank you for your answer. Unfortunately, I can't quite get it right. I am printing with the X1 Carbon and using the Generic PLA profile that is provided. Is there a concrete picture of the settings with which it works 100%? Unfortunately, it has already taken 7 attempts and none of them can be used.

@Neebick

Replying to @alex10.1997 :

You are running into a lot more blobbing then I'm used to see from others of this model. First off, make sure you have supports enabled for 30 degree threshold angle. Select "On build plate only" if you want less supports but having it the entirety does help but requires more cleanup. Since you are using a x1, I would leave the door open since cooling is critical for the overhangs. Make sure all the fans are on. For simplicity sake, I would change your print speed to silent using your touch screen. Make sure the bed is very clean for best adhesion. Filament brand can make a difference in quality of printing of the overhangs as well. Calibrating the filament may also help for better performance.

@spideme

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

very cool!

@TenThumbs

Boosted

Hello, would you be willing to share what wall mount that is that you used?

@spideme

Replying to @TenThumbs :

no prob, here you go! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3177285

(Edited)

@TenThumbs

Boosted

Replying to @spideme :

Thanks!

@RClevenger

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

Fantastic model! glad you have it seperated into different parts so you dont need an ams to print multi color. Everything came out amazing!

@neamands

Boosted

What filament (brand and color) did you use for the hilt? I'm looking for exactly that blue but can't find it

(Edited)

@RClevenger

Replying to @neamands :

Bambulabs Matte Dark Blue PLA https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament

(Edited)

@Pretorianer1979

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

megaaaaaa

@scaryxxl

the sword wall mount fit it perfectly? can you tell me wich one is it?

@girarf

Tried that support, is not correct. Can the author fix that 😁 The sword is fantastic and i'd like to have a matching support for wall! thanks!

@user_482156704

I've been struggling to print the Blade Base, I have attempted four times, and every time between 50 - 60% the model falls over, printing using the .2mm nozzle, with brim up to 20mm. Has anyone else had this issue or have any advice. Note printed both Blade Tip and Blade Centre with no issue using same print profile.

The designer has replied

@Neebick

In my profile I used the other pieces to helps stabilize it by having all their brims merge together. At this point, I would increase the brim size. Also slow down your print speed. That would put less stress on the model. Some people even have had success using glue but I have never needed it. Washing the build plate with dish soap and water is always good idea when adhesion issues pop up.

@user_482156704

Replying to @Neebick :

I had already printed the other parts of the blade, but after surrounding the base with the peg's needed, piece printed with no issue. Much appreciated, Thank you. I have always like to print one thing at a time, so if the print fails only one item is lost, but seems this isn't always the best way.

@taptic

Boosted

Absolutely incredible, what a great print!

@shane12m

where did you get the sword holder?

@Atome3D

Boosted

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

Good , just look print profile for adding support when you need

@shane12m

where did you get the sword holder?

@user_928141721

search ‘master sword’ and it will show up if you scroll down

@SilyPrints

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

sublime, impression facile, assemblage idem, une vrai beauté, je n’ai juste pas imprimer la lame brisée car l’impression a échouer.

@cristal.sephi

Boosted

Je suis sur A1, et je n'arrive pas a imprimer la lame sans Warping, aurait tu des conseils pour l'impression. Si je met une jupe, elle s'enlève difficilement et me laisse des traces, pour le moment impossible de finir la lame.

@SilyPrints

Replying to @cristal.sephi :

salut, assure toi que ton plateau soi bien propre, tu peut soi augmenter la temperature du plateau ou bien ajouter de la colle, assure toi de ne pas avoir de courant d'air lors de ton impression. si cela ne fonctionne toujours pas essaye avec une autre marque de PLA avec les même paramètres.

@linton

I just uploaded a scabbard that would probably fit this. I am gonna download your model and see as it would be a nice pair :) https://makerworld.com/en/models/69441