Master Sword with interchangeable blades from Legend of Zelda Tears of the Kingdom by Neebick

Neebick

Props & Cosplays>Replica Weapon

Print Profile(2)

All

P1P

P1S

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

Designer

185.2 h

9 plates

4.8(74)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

1.3 h

1 plate

5.0(9)

Boost

597

998

123

1.4 k

1.8 k

Released

Description

Update: I have added a scabbard that is designed for this Master Sword.

This one was a fun project to see if I could make a master sword that would could be all encompassing for its appearances in Tears of the Kingdom. The party trick being that the center jewel acts as a locking peg for which ever blade is inserted. It's modeled with a tight tolerance so that it will friction fit in. Just press the center of the jewel and the peg will slide out. This allows the blade to be removed. My idea was that this would be more convenient then printing and finishing 3 different hilts for each blade. Storage should be easier as well. Plus its just cool.

Glue and supports will be necessary for some parts.

I have kept tolerances tight on some parts to help with friction fitting. I've found the blades need a couple insertions before it becomes easier. I figured this was better then a wobbly blade.

Parts

Blades - Each blade is designed to be printed upright on the plate. You will need 2 center portions to make a full length blade. I have included pegs which should be glued to join all the sections. I suggest thick walls. I print with 5 walls for good measure. Really helps with flex. Use supports for the peg holes. On the restored blade, I did not include a tip since it is the same as the original blade.
Cross guard - I have sliced this 2 ways: Sideways for more vertical printing. Excellent cooling is a must. I had very slight sagging towards the top of mine due to the sharp angles of the tips. Or sliced in half for a wider print but easier details if bed adhesion and warping isn't an issue. Supports are a must for both. Focus on the interior portions and tips.
Grip - Simple part. Print with flared portion on the plate. Make sure to glue it with the cutout portion facing forward. Important for the wrap to be aligned with the cross guard.
Wrap - This is was a trickier part for me since it kept coming loose from the bed. It doesn't have a very wide base so bed adhesion is critical. Supports and brims help. Has a built in peg to lock it into the proper orientation.
Jewels and Blade surrounds - Super easy print. Glue peg into jewel with inset on the back. Glue surrounds on cross guard.
Pommel - Two parts for nicer printing. Use grip to help align while gluing halves together. Can remain removable with future upgrades...

Video Demonstration

Comment & Rating (123)

@alex10.1997

Hello everyone, can anyone tell me exactly what settings you used to print the Warp Model? No matter what I do it doesn't work and looks like the pictures.

The designer has replied

@Neebick

It is the trickiest component due to the height and thin base. Painting on supports helps stabilize from rocking while printing. Also slowing down the print speed should help as well.

@alex10.1997

Replying to @Neebick :

Thank you for your answer. Unfortunately, I can't quite get it right. I am printing with the X1 Carbon and using the Generic PLA profile that is provided. Is there a concrete picture of the settings with which it works 100%? Unfortunately, it has already taken 7 attempts and none of them can be used.

@Neebick

Replying to @alex10.1997 :

You are running into a lot more blobbing then I'm used to see from others of this model. First off, make sure you have supports enabled for 30 degree threshold angle. Select "On build plate only" if you want less supports but having it the entirety does help but requires more cleanup. Since you are using a x1, I would leave the door open since cooling is critical for the overhangs. Make sure all the fans are on. For simplicity sake, I would change your print speed to silent using your touch screen. Make sure the bed is very clean for best adhesion. Filament brand can make a difference in quality of printing of the overhangs as well. Calibrating the filament may also help for better performance.

@RClevenger

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

Fantastic model! glad you have it seperated into different parts so you dont need an ams to print multi color. Everything came out amazing!

@neamands

Boosted

What filament (brand and color) did you use for the hilt? I'm looking for exactly that blue but can't find it

(Edited)

@RClevenger

Replying to @neamands :

Bambulabs Matte Dark Blue PLA https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament

(Edited)

@Pretorianer1979

Print Profile

0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

megaaaaaa

@scaryxxl

the sword wall mount fit it perfectly? can you tell me wich one is it?

@girarf

Tried that support, is not correct. Can the author fix that 😁 The sword is fantastic and i'd like to have a matching support for wall! thanks!

@sebastian83.lau

printed well and looks beautiful. it feels a bit heavy. Maybe reduce the fill or change the pattern for the fill. In the 3fm project I had problems with the blade center model, so I downloaded the STL files and put it new in the project, it works fine. One request from me is, could you load the Cross Guard as a whole model into the STL files? So everyone can cut it themselves and find the best print bed option. also you have the option of setting connecting elements when cutting to put it together optimally

The designer has replied

@Neebick

I’m glad your print came out well. Thank you for sharing it. I’ll have to look into what could be the issue with the blade center. I’ll add the step file of the model for more flexibility for those that what to cut it different. Most of the weight comes from the extra walls. This adds strength to the model and prevents sagging. The connecting part of the blade especially needs the strength due to the force it is under. Also I admit I prefer the more solid feel. I have included the cross guard cut two ways. I used the side version in the 3mf since it gives the best quality print with all the angles and has the smallest seam line. On my previous master sword I found that cutting it wide led to more potential issues with warping due to more contact on the build plate. Also the trouble with cutting the cross guard differently is the center connecting element of the grip would only work with either of them. I’ve tried to keep the model as a simple and easy print.

@linton

I just uploaded a scabbard that would probably fit this. I am gonna download your model and see as it would be a nice pair :) https://makerworld.com/en/models/69441