..finally here it is → my BIG Spiral Lamp V2 [WLED] :)
I heard your voices and created the lamp from scratch in order to make a lot of things easier. I also added a video tutorial howto assemble the lamp. everything is in realtime and you will see how easy it is. the assembly will not take longer than 5 minutes!
Features:
full support of WLED
easy print with less filament compared to the previous version
If you want to use another board contact me and send me the size(s). I will try to also create a fitting lid for your board! Currently the profile contains a “standard” size for ESP32 mini boards with 35mmx28mm (length/width).
How to print:
First of all please READ the whole instructions!
As I wanted to make the assembly as easy as possible I decided to design a guided rail for the stripes. Everything matches perfectly to each other especially the diffusors. BUT - you really have to make sure to use CALIBRATED (or BAMBU-), DRYED FILAMENT! I will really be pissed when someone is giving a bad vote due to the fact he was unable to READ! ..and believe me - this happens a lot and is really frustrating.. The printer is doing it's job pretty well but this does not exclude any work / maintainment!
Here are some rules / hints to get a perfect result:
USE A CLEAN PRINT BED!
USE CALIBRATED OR BAMBU FILAMENT!
USE DRY FILAMENT!
USE NORMAL SPEED!
REMOVE ALL SUPPORTS CAREFULLY
MAKE SURE TO REMOVE ALL SUPPORTS FROM THE DIFFUSORS ESPECIALLY THE BRIM
When you don't want to use my print profile pay attention to the following points:
use NO infill for the diffusors
use max. 2 walls for the diffusors as with more walls less light will come through
you need stabilization for printing the diffusors & the two main lamp parts → NO supports WON'T work! (I already tried that with my big spiral lamp V1 and always failed due to the height and small movements caused by the mass inertia). tree supports work best.
the lid surfaces should be printed in a circular way. so ensure to choose a propper setting for the bottom & top layer!
If you are using the 60LEDs per meter stripe then count 30 LEDs and then cut it. Insert the stripe and test whether the lenght matches (it should - you can also cut after checking ;))
If you are not using the 60LEDs per meter stripe measure the length → just insert the stripe into the lamp. The leds should end within the lamps body on both sides this way (you just see a small edge of the stripe):
Cut the cables in the half, strip the insulation and solder ONLY the females to the inputs (see the arrows on the stripe!):
always use the male plug for the output and the females for the input
May already configure WLED starting at 3. from here (if you have any issues just ask here and I will help you guiding through)
Now watch the assembly video:
Now the lamp is assembled. Push / Pull the stripes from the two sides this way and solder the males:
Push the stripes back (never pull the cables) and connect everything. Start from the side with the two female stripes. Choose the one you will use as input from the board. Follow with your eyes to the other side. Connect the males at this side with the only females. Follow the female stripe back to the other side. Connect the males with the females of the remaining stripe (NOT the one which is the board input).
Now connect your board. The PIN setting is the following way:
green is LED+ → it connects to 5V
grey is LED- → it connects to ground
white is DATA → it connects to GPIO2
Power the board. When your solder-points are ok the first 30 LEDs of the lamp should shine orange. That is the default setting in WLED to check whether everything works. If you have already configured WLED then all 90LEDs should shine (if not either your solder-points are not ok or you connected the wrong stripes :P).
You are done :) Enjoy your new lamp and leave a like :) (don't forget to assemble the lids :P)
Don't let these people bother you, these are exactly the people who bought their first printer and think that 3d printing is about pressing one button on the mobile and then running Ludicrous at 220 degrees and it's your fault because you modeled it wrong.🤦♂️ And they don't even care that 5 people in front of them give 5 stars and praise the model.
It's a great model, I'm going to print it out. And pray, if I don't like something, 1 star is coming;))))
And download this app, it makes smooth gifs. Check it out here https://makerworld.com/models/183422, it looks like a video.
https://apps.apple.com/app/id1644970290?ls=1&mt=8
Good luck bye;)
thank you very much :) hehe - yes I know. I also wrote about this in my dry-box model as there that happend a few times. level 5 users were complaining about their prints and it was obvious that this had nothing to do with the model. the bambu printers are really good but in a way they are threat. some beginners are expecting everything is printable without any work of their own. ..and even the printer needs care especially the plates! ..but they don't care..
thx for the link. I will check that out (but do not own a mac) :) have fun with printing! ..and let me know if you need anything else
This work is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.
You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.