Tardis LED Lamp (Multi-Colour Print)

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Tardis LED Lamp (Multi-Colour Print)

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44
71
11
GIF

Print Profile(1)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

Highly Optimized (Fully Painted)
Highly Optimized (Fully Painted)
Designer
36.2 h
1 plate
5.0(3)

Boost
44
71
11
3
125
36
Released

Description

This is a detailed T.A.R.D.I.S. lamp which uses the LED Lamp disk available from the Bambu Lab store.

 

This famed TARDIS from Doctor Who stands just over 17cm tall and prints using just 4 colours with an AMS.

 

No AMS? No problem!
I've also produced another version of this design which can be printed without an AMS, but if you do print that version with an AMS it can feature even more detail than this one. Access that one here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/163764

 

Have an AMS? Great, this'll be easy!
If you do have an AMS, you can print this all together:

Assembly Instructions

This model is nice and easy to assemble as it's mostly printed as one.

Before assembling it, make sure you remove the support material. This is mostly in the lamp fitting zone underneath the tardis, and there will be a small strip under each of the 4 signs on the top section.

Step 1

Take the reflector screw, and screw it into the bottom of the reflector, then screw that whole unit into the base of the lid.
Finally take the cap for the top of the lamp and slot it down onto the top of the lamp.


Step 2

Take the Bambu Labs LED lamp and insert it into the base of the tardis with the cable feeding out the cable slot. If it's not fitting, there may be some discreet support material still fitted in place, use a pair of tweezers or a deburring tool and make sure it's cleaned up, it should slot straight in.
Once the lamp is fitted (ensuring the light is facing up, into the tardis), take the base cap and screw it in place to secure the lamp.

Step 3

Take the lid and slot it down onto the TARDIS body. Sit back and enjoy, your TARDIS is ready!

 

Printing Instructions

I'd advise using my profile for printing this as I've ensured everything will print well, but here's some notes, especially for if you're slicing this yourself:

  • This involves some particularly small sections (namely the door handles). If you're slicing this yourself, you'll want to ensure your printer is slowing down sufficiently for these areas.
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm minimum (But 0.1mm will allow for better detail in the signs)
  • You'll want support material in the lamp area at the base, but make sure it is designed so that it isn't going to cause issues with the tread. Look at the support painting and settings in my profile for reference even if you're slicing it yourself.

Print Profile

Not only does my print profile feature fully pre-painted parts, it has also been heavily tested and refined, with different speeds and settings for different parts. I highly recommend printing with my profile (marked with the green ‘Designer’ box.

 

My TARDIS collection currently includes:

Comment & Rating (11)

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came out amazing, I'm very happy with the result issues I had, the "public call" part of the text on the lid seems a bit more smushed than it should be? and the prime tower screwed itself over mid print, but the printer still finished the rest of the print fine. also, a question to the designer, the upper hole in the lid, is the cap removeable so you could put a small candle inside the TARDIS instead or what's it's use?
The designer has replied
2
Reply
The print looks great, glad you're happy with it. Regarding the 'Public call' letters on the top sign, unfortunately that's the best I could get without having them uncharacteristically large, or using the wrong font. I have however also uploaded a version of this lamp which involves printing it in separate parts. This allows you to print the signs face down on the print bed, and if you do so with a 0.2mm nozzle, you can get much higher detail with both the top signs, and the sign on the door, you can see that one here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/163764#profileId-179773 As for the hole in the lid, I'm presuming you mean the light hole that allows some light to reach into the lamp at the top. That hole is designed to allow the light to that lamp. Technically you could not put the cap on the top of it but I wouldn't advise putting a candle inside there as it would still be mostly enclosed by the plastic which would almost certainly melt if the candle wasn't quickly extinguished from the lack of air as I don't think that hole would be large enough to allow heat and smoke out and air in I'm afraid. You could however put a candle inside if you completely removed the top of the Tardis, but even then I'd advise keeping an eye on it for the first 15-20 minutes to make sure it doesn't start melting the inside.
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Replying to @ByteSlinger :
ah, its fine then, i just wondered why the blue cap on top of the light hole was removeable, so i figured it might be a smoke outlet for small candles thanks for the quick reply :D
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Replying to @TheUnknownOne :
No worries. It's mainly because of the overhang on the edges. It was a choice of either making it a separately printed piece, or needing potentially problematic support just for that small lip. Glad you like it! Allons-Y!
1
Reply
Print Profile
Highly Optimized (Fully Painted)
really pleased with the end result, other than having to use a deburring tool to shave a bit off the hole for the light it fits together nice and snug.
The designer has replied
2
Reply
It looks fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing the pics. Seeing a TARDIS just makes me so happy lol. Sorry you needed to use a deburring tool, do you think that was largely down to the support material, or something else?
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Replying to @ByteSlinger :
I think it was just where the support material was but it only took about a minute to remove it so not much of an issue
(Edited)
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Wouldn't it have been easier and a lot quicker to make the inner wall a separate print?
The designer has replied
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Reply
The inner wall also forms the windows, the reason it's all white rather than just the areas of the windows is if just the windows were painted there was occasionally quality issues resulting from it. I am absolutely looking at ways to improve the design and this gives me some thoughts so keep watch for a V2.0.
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Print Profile
Highly Optimized (Fully Painted)
I don't know if it was something I did but the bottom part is really bright and the rest of the blue is lighted but not as lighted . would it be better is we could do the white inside separated from the white ?
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Print Profile
Highly Optimized (Fully Painted)
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License

This work is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.