Master Sword Pen by Neebick

Neebick

Household>Office

GIF

Print Profile(5)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

A1 mini

0.08mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

19.7 h

5 plates

4.9(99)

[A1 mini ]0.08mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

20.6 h

5 plates

4.8(8)

A1 Mini + AMS ready - @hb2901 - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

7.1 h

5 plates

5.0(2)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

2.3 h

1 plate

5.0(2)

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Boost

1156

1862

174

1.7 k

1.8 k

Released

Description

Master Sword pen that is designed to use Pilot G2 ink refills (Gold and silver inks are available for extra fun). I designed the hilt for multiple color printing but looks very nice in all silver as well.

Printing

The model prints great with a 0.4mm nozzle. All pictures are printed with it at 0.08mm layer height. A 0.2mm nozzle will look better with finer details like the Triforce on the blade but is optional.

Print at lower layer heights for better detail and smoother feel while handling.

Supports are necessary for the hilt at the section that the blade inserts into. Supports also helps with the blade top since it is very narrow on the plate and could jostle loose. The screw must be printed vertically for best detail and function.

I printed the blade in Bambu Labs Basic PLA Silver. This filament gave a very smooth and satisfying to touch finish without paint. I had to print on separate plates to achieve it since unsightly bulges appeared when the nozzle moved between parts to often. This is most likely due to the tall and skinny profile of the parts.

Assembly

The hilt prints in two halves for better detail and less filament waste on purges. Remove supports and glue halves together. Alignment is important for appearance and part fitment.

The blade top inserts into the hilt. Friction fitting will hold but glue can be used for a more permanent assembly.

Slide Pilot G2 refill cartridge into blade body. It will not go all the way in. The fitment is purposely tight for better feel while using as a pen.

Slowly screw in the blade top into the blade body. You will feel a slight resistance as the screw pushing against the ink cartridge. Continue till the parts align flush. DO NOT over tighten to avoid damage to the threads. There is a slight over tightening allowance but you will not be able to get an additional turn without damaging the parts.

To remove the ink cartridge, unscrew the top and press the tip against a piece paper. There should be a slight pop as the the pen tip aligns with the blade tip. The cartridge should just shake out now.

master sword

legend of zelda

Comment & Rating (174)

@BadEggStusios

One of my absolute favorite prints ever. I love pens. I made sure to beef up the threads just in case. Great design. 👍

@Bigbear325

wow, the silk looks sooo good! what's your setting for the silk? low cooling?

@BadEggStusios

Replying to @Bigbear325 :

automatic settings. Just choose silk pla and let the x1c do the rest.

@PrintGeggo

Print Profile

0.08mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

I have now printed it and am very happy with the result. Thanks for your help old text: Unfortunately it broke off while putting it together. I'll try it again with more filling

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Neebick

Edit: Actually let me look into it. I didn’t test shearing much while not installed. This is the first break I had seen but was to replicate if I pushed pretty hard on some of mine.

(Edited)

@PrintGeggo

Replying to @Neebick :

I had screwed it together. As a test, I connected the handle to the blade. I probably pressed too hard. I have already printed the part again and the thread with more filling. I also increased the printing temperature slightly to help the layers hold better.

(Edited)

@PrintGeggo

Replying to @Neebick :

My son (16) got the second print with more filling broken because he turned it the wrong way. I'm now printing it a third time, but this time in silver from Bambulab.

@shane12m

Awesome print! love it! only issue I have is that it does not screw on properly and will be loose unless it’s crooked.

The designer has replied

@Neebick

I purposely built in extra to prevent damage to the threads when pushing in the ink cartridge. When the ink cartridge is installed it is much less noticeable since there pressure on the screw.

@shane12m

Replying to @Neebick :

I do have the ink cartridge inserted. maybe I’ll add something else inside

(Edited)

@daversamd

tried printing the hilt file 2 times and both failed. There is some weird overlapping of colors and grinding the filament on the tower

The designer has replied

@Neebick

That is a pretty odd error. The purge tower should be a 4th of that size. You may want to try giving your build plate a cleaning. I bet the purge tower came loose and was dragged with the print head. Also that support at the base of the hilt should be higher. Which points even more to bed adhesion issues.

@daversamd

thank for the reply and suggestions. I used this filament and bed for prints after attempting this one but this happened to me twice with the same issue. I'll give it a good clean and try again

@ILIKETOPRINT

Print Profile

0.08mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

This was so fun to print. I use this pen every day!

@dethdeks

what filament you use on the handle?

@ILIKETOPRINT

Replying to @dethdeks :

It's called CookieCad. Here is the link from Microcenter. https://www.microcenter.com/product/669675/cookiecad-175mm-petg-iridescent-3d-printer-filament-single-color-10-kg-(22-lbs)-spool-witchcraft

@j0shua029

Print Profile

A1 Mini + AMS ready - @hb2901 - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Mixed and matched on the presets to save some time! I believe i did the hilt in .2 and the rest in .08. So freaking awesome!

@pickled.jokey0s

Print Profile

0.08mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

I used a spare 0.38 G2 refill for mine. I did have issues with the threaded part that connects to the hilt. my first print broke at the base of the threads. I couldn’t get it unscrewed from the blade so I had to reprint both parts parts. I ended up printing the threaded part with. 0.2 nozzle for the one in the image and making the threading, and a little bit under it, solid with no infill. So far it’s holding up.

The designer has replied

@Neebick

Thanks for sharing your print. Unfortunately, It seems to be a combination of silk filament having lower layer bonding strength and the way Bambu slicer treats the screw. I did post a stronger version. It tricks the slicer into adding more layers to the base of the screw.