Mechanical clock

Mechanical clock

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Print Profile(2)

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P1S
A1
P1P
X1
H2D
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1 mini

clock, petg for axles, original pendulum bob
clock, petg for axles, original pendulum bob
Designer
27.5 h
10 plates
5.0(4)

pendulum extension
pendulum extension
Designer
4.7 h
1 plate
5.0(2)

Open in Bambu Studio
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Released

Description

 

 

25/03/2025 EDIT: added print profile for pendulum extension. given the difficulty in getting a threaded rod longer than a meter I added a print profile to print an extension to use on the 1m rod. reorganized the main file to exclude the original pendulum print bed from the print process 

 

08/04/2025 EDIT: I added a small notch on the pallet to help with the clock assembly. The notch MUST FACING THE OUTSIDE OF THE CLOCK OR the clock will not work

 

 

Imagine a 3D-printed mechanical clock, a little masterpiece of engineering and creativity! Its beating heart is a deadbeat escapement, which isn’t in a rush to live: its ticking is steady, marking time with impeccable precision, without the frantic pace of more common escapements.

Printed layer by layer with durable plastic, it almost looks like a steampunk artifact from a future where technology meets craftsmanship. Its gears mesh elegantly, and the balance wheel dances in perfect harmony, like a dancer who never misses a step.

And then there’s that fascinating detail: the crisp, well-defined tick-tock, as if time itself pauses between each beat, with the confidence of something that knows it has everything under control. A little jewel of engineering that proves 3D printing isn’t just for making objects but for bringing marvels to life! 

 

I leave you the step files to modify and customize the hands and the dial of the clock. Do not modify the attachments to the mechanism or the frame and have fun with the geometries, numbers and colors that you prefer!

 

BOM:

 

all parts are printed except the pendulum rod. the best choice is to buy a m6 threaded rod with a minimum length of 1.1 m (I was lucky enough to find 1.5 m rods, if you can't find them and you find the more common 1 m rods you can also buy a coupler nut to extend the rod to the minimum length of 1.1 m). in addition to the rod you will need two m6 nuts, and fishing line for the weught hanging

in addition to the bar you will need some common materials such as:
-lubricant (personally I found a silicone-based spray lubricant that is not greasy, alternatively allmighty WD40 will work well)
-exacto knife to remove blobs and elephant feet from the pieces

-an empty 0.5 lt plastic bottle

-old bolts and nuts 

 

what's new compared to my first attempt

 (https://makerworld.com/en/models/882580-fully-functional-mechanical-clock#profileId-837039)?

 

-double frame, the axes rest on two fixed structures, this reduces the deformations of the axes, the gears can therefore be finer and also thanks to a better management of the geometry of the gears I managed to reduce the internal friction of the clock eliminating the need to use ball bearings for the contact points)
-the weight acts on the minute axis, this reduces the autonomy of the clock but allows you to use a much lighter weight. in fact the clock works with a weight of half a kilo. the autonomy of the clock remains good. for each hour of operation. for each hour of operation in fact the weight will drop by about 6 cm. hanging the clock at 1.8 m from the ground the clock will work for about 30 hours

 

a little bit of iterations on the escapment to get this thing working….

 

 

ASSEMBLY GUIDE

 

PRELIMINARY STEP:
-clean all the pins, axles and gears well. remove any burrs and elephant feet. if the geometry of the gears will help you in printing to avoid elevator feet for the escapement gear I could not apply the same changes for the thickness of the teeth. take your time and clean each tooth well, small defects could jam the mechanism.

-make sure that as you assemble the pieces all the gears slide freely on the axle! if you feel any small friction clean the axle with a bit of sandpaper and lubricate all the contact points with wd40 or other lubricant

 

 

 

  1. 1 If you have a threaded rod longer than 1m follow this step otherwise go to the  point 1.2

    assemble the pendulum, the pendulum is made up of two parts that connect with 4 pegs. use a little glue to make sure the piece is firmly in place

 

2) fix the pendulum bob on the rod. use a m6 nut to prevent the pendulum from coming off the threaded rod. the slot is sized to hide the nut while still allowing for adjustment of the rod length

 

1.2) If you have a 1 m long bar follow this step:
assemble the extension as you see in the photo. now you will have 2 screws to adjust the extension of the pendulum. you will have to use the steel nut to adjust the length of the bar (between the pendulum support and the center of the bob) of about 1 m. then you can make the fine tunbig of the pendulum period using the printed pla nut 

 

 

2) Insert the m6 bar into the pendulum hanger. Fix the bar with an m6 bolt inserted into the appropriate slot

4) insert the main rob of the back of the frame. make sure it slides freely and don't forget to lubricate the axle

5) Insert escapement wheel

6) Insert gear 1 and gear 2. even if at first glance they seem identical, they are not. make sure that gear 2 is in the position you see in the figure. you will recognize it thanks to an engraving near the axis of rotation

7) insert the driving wheel. this gear and the axle must be solid together so the gear will fit into the hex slot of the axle

8) prepare the drum. insert the fishing line into the hole on the drum. then wrap the line clockwise (see the drawing) then, for ease of assembly in the subsequent phases you can fix the line with a bit of scotch tape to the side wall of the drum

9) Insert the drum onto the axle and then the locking pin onto the driving wheel. Make sure the locking pin is firmly seated on the grooves of the drum to ensure it transmits movement.

10) assemble the escapement mechanism. fix the pallet on the escapement rod. they will fit together thanks to a hexagonal joint on the axis

11) insert the assembled pieces into the upper hole of the frame. the cylindrical part must be facing as you see in the photo

12) fit the yoke into the rear of the axle.

13) fix the rewind rod and the short rod to the front of the frame

14) fix the rewind gear on the axle

15) connect the front of the frame to the rest of the clock. all the pins are snap-fit, make sure the axles fit into the slots correctly

16) connect gear 3 and gear4 to the axles, insert the dial spacers and the front pin to secure the frame

17) place gear 5

18) connect the hands. The minute hand attaches to the axle, the hour hand attaches to the gear

19) Now you can attach the dial to the frame. The inner part will fit into the inner edge of the dial and then you can connect everything to the spacers already attached to the frame

20) Now you can fix the pendum hanger to the wall. The piece is hollow so you can insert a screw and screwdriver to reach the dowel fixed to the wall. the tip of the pendulum  hanger must be inserted into the groove as you see in the photo

21) attach the clock to the hanger, make sure the pendulum bar is inserted into the yoke slot.
measure to attach the other two clock brackets to the wall. make sure the axis of the clock is perfectly perpendicular to the ground before attaching the other two brackets. use the pins to hide the holes

 

now you can attach the weight to the string. you just need to move the pendulum slightly so that the clock starts ticking. now you will have to do a bit of trial and error to make sure that the clock is ticking. simply by lengthening or shortening the pendulum rod you will be able to make the clock tick. ideally the length from the fulcrum of the pendulum to the center of mass of the pendulum bob should be 1m to have a swing of one second. adjust this time by slightly screwing or unscrewing the m6 nut at the base of the pendulum.

 

for the weight, fill the bottle with old bolts and screws (much cheaper than printing the full weight, even if you have to buy everything with a couple of euros in the hardware store you can buy a kg of nails or bolts) slide the wire into the hole in the cover and tie the neck of the bottle. slide the bottle into the cover and you're done

 

to rewind the watch you just need to unhook the pin that holds the drum in place and rewind the thread by turning the rewind wheel counterclockwise using the key found in the file. you can also rewind it by rotating the drum by hand. you just need to reposition the locking pin by fixing it to the drum

 

enjoy your new clock!

Comment & Rating (44)

(0/5000)

I followed the instructions precisely, yet frustratingly, the pendulum stops after a few swings. I deburred, lubricated with silicone spray, increased (850g) and decreased (500g) the weight—to no avail. Assistance is requested before I leave a review. The materials used were Bambulab PLA Basic and BambuLab PETG
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hi. at first glance it looks like the pallet is installed backwards. but i can't see clearly from the photo. could you send me a photo of the pallet and escape wheel assembly?
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and also send me a photo of the pendulum, in detail the support to the structure and the connection to the threaded rod to the pallet
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Replying to @fmor :
Thank you for your quick reply: I checked again and found that the palette is indeed asymmetrical (different bevels at the ends) and that I probably installed it incorrectly. While disassembling, the PETG axis of the palette unfortunately broke, so I have to print it again. I will contact you again after reassembly. In the otherwise excellent and clear description, I would strongly request (to save the nerves of future builders) an explicit indication of how the palette must be installed… possibly with a marking point on the visible inside…
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Congratulations on the design, it functions flawlessly after a few days of adjustments and understanding the clock's mechanism
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Thanks for sharing!
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Hello! :-) The pendulum extension file says that it doesn't have and geometry. If I try to download it as an stl it is the step file you mentioned. I think there might be a small mix-up with the uploaded files.
(Edited)
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hi. i just downloaded the file and tried to open it with bambustudio. it doesn't give me any problems. anyway i tried to reload the file. let me know if it works for you you have to select the print profile and then download the 3mf file hi. if it stops it seems there are 2 possible problems, either there are friction problems or there is a geometry problem. to help you could you send a photo of the escapement? is the axis of the clock perpendicular to the ground? how much weight are you working with?
(Edited)
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Replying to @fmor :
Firstly, I apologize for the rapid fire messages that I then deleted. I was frustrated and didn't handle it all that well. After some tinkering last night I was able to get it to run for about 8 hours over night but it had stopped again this morning. I have about 1300 grams of weight and that seems to be working much better. I don't know why it would have been different this time, but the file opens correctly now, thank you! I'm wondering, does the pendulum bob need to have more weight in it as well? I'm getting at best a couple degrees of sway. I was thinking about creating a hollow spot in the bob that I could put some pennies in to try. What're your thoughts?
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Replying to @Zylixj39 :
hi. no problem, it is not a simple project and it is easy to lose patience. for the pendulum it is correct that the oscillation is a few degrees per side (the pallet engages and disengages the escapement at 2.5 degrees) for now I would leave the pendulum alone. you have to solve the problems one at a time so as not to have too many variables to consider. it is strange that the clock stops after 8 hours. if the escapement had problems transmitting force to the pendulum it would stop after a few minutes not after hours. if you activate the pendulum when it stops does it start working correctly again or does it stop after a short while?
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Print Profile
clock, petg for axles, original pendulum bob
This was challenging and fine-tuning is still needed, but it works! I had my son to collect rocks to put in the bottle instead of nuts and bolts. Also I used a wire cable instead of fishing line.
profile
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Hi there I am in the middle of printing off the parts to make this project. First up thank you, it's a great print. But i do have a couple of questions before i start assembly. First up you mention that there is a key in the print, i am almost done printing and i am yet to see it. the second Question relates to the power drum(for lack of a better name) and the little pivot arm that locks it in place. wouldn't this work better if it had a small tension spring to keep it against the drum? As it is now it looks like when you go to wind the clock the arm will fall away from the drum. Unless the arm is above the drum when you wind it, in which case gravity will hold it in place. As i have said i am yet to assemble it and when i do maybe the answers to mt questions will become obvious. in any case thank you for a great project i am enjoying working on it. i had a bit of a play and came up with this. it is totally reversible, if when i start assembly i discover I'm an idiot and it is unnecessary. i printed my modified parts in blue to make clear what i modified
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hi. your idea is good. in fact inserting a system for repositioning the locking pin was the original idea. I discarded the idea of a system of inserting a deformable mechanism in petg inside the drum like in my first watch so as not to increase the diameter of the drum and lose autonomy and insert other frictions. the spring positioned like yours was one of the ideas but then I decided to opt for a completely printable system and therefore the pin has very tight tolerances and must be repositioned manually. just one thing. I think that the spring positioned as you did could have a problem. you should make sure that the pin moves freely and then slightly widen the hole that rotates on the gear axis, but by doing so I'm afraid that if the spring is not perfectly aligned with the pin it could pull it out of its axis in the long run. to avoid the problem you should insert a block. but it's a theory....maybe it's not necessary. today I'll leave you the step file of the gear and the pin so that if you need it you can modify it with fusion more easily
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Magnificent mechanism, I ended up not printing the clock face, but it's working perfectly. I did the calculations and it's lasting approximately 10 hours, and it's also running quite fast, but remember it's only a prototype. Once again, congratulations to the creator of this project
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hello and thank you! if the clock is going faster than expected you need to lengthen the length of the pendulum. with my version (which is apophesized two meters from the ground) I can get about 30 hours of operation and I am faster by 3 minutes in 24 hours. what length did you find for the threaded rod?
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Print Profile
clock, petg for axles, original pendulum bob
A fantastic build with a bit of a challenge behind it. And I mean that in the best of ways. With some trouble shooting abs playing around with the weights, this is going to be a clock that I hand at work now. Thank you!
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just wanted to thank you for a great project. I now have my clock running and it actually keeps pretty good time. I do have one question, why did you decide to print the axles in PETG? i'm not sure if this was just something to do with my print, i have never used this filament before, but i found them to be very brittle. I ended up reprint a couple of them in PLA and they seem fine. The only other problem i had during assembly was that you didn't mention that the pallet has to be fitted to the escapement rod in only one way (with the base of the print facing the front of the clock) it simply will not work if fitted the other way around, trust me i know lol. finally in you directions you talk about the weight needed to run the clock being somewhere between .5 and 1kg, i found i needed closer to 1.5kg for it to run reliably. this is a great project and i only post this in the hope it will help someone else that might be having problems getting there clock to run. oh and the modification to the rewind mechanism that i posted a few days ago, is a winner, it works great. Thanks again for a great project.
(Edited)
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hello! thank you very much for your appreciation. -I chose to print the axes in petg because with the old version of the clock I had a problem with the deformation of the axes printed in pla, once printed in petg I solved the problem without having to modify the geometry of the frame. but if it works better for you in pla no problem, the only problem you could have is the deformation of the axis on which the weight is hanging. if the clock suddenly stops you know what the first thing to check
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-for the pallet, you're not the only one who had problems, I modified the piece by inserting a small recess that indicates the upper part of the piece and updated the assembly guide. -the weight is unfortunately a problem. there are too many variables to take into account to have a good result. for example I use ptfe lubricant which greatly reduces friction, but I noticed that the pla used in the project has a big impact. small variations in the expansion of the material affect the friction
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if you notice in the photos my pallet and escapement gear are a slightly different gray. I had run out of pla that I had used for the rest of the gears (anycubic) and printed those pieces with a new spool (sunlu), the clock stopped, if I reassembled the test pieces (anycubic but in light blue) the clock started again. I had to increase the weight and it started ticking correctly again even with the pieces printed with sunlu. thanks again!
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Hello, does the watch not have a case back?
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hi no, I preferred to leave the bottom open to be able to insert the bottle with the internal weights and have quicker access for any weight adjustments
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Replying to @fmor :
perfect
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Boosted
Great design, I won't make this but I really like the time and effort put into both the design and explaining how to build it. (Hence boosted)
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thanks!
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