For a while now, I’ve wanted to try modelling and 3D printing a miniature version of Dalaran, the floating city from World of Warcraft. Since the city seemingly defies (or defied) gravity in-game, it felt like the perfect candidate for Bambu Lab’s Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit. Here are some of the challenges I faced in bringing the idea into a 3D-printed reality.The Centre of EverythingThe key to making a good levitating model with the MagLev kit is ensuring the model’s centre of mass sits on the same vertical axis as the floating magnet. If the centre of mass is too far off-centre, the model will tilt—or not levitate altogether. This is relatively straightforward for symmetrical models, where the centre of mass lies neatly along the central axis. But where exactly is the centre of this thing, let alone its centre of mass?! In-game Dalaran Luckily, working out the centre of mass is only a few clicks away in most CAD software, and there are similar add-ons available to do so in 3D modelling software such as Blender. Once most of the modelling was complete, I created the cut-out and holder for the floating magnet so that it aligned with the model’s calculated centre of mass. Magnet placed on the same axis as centre of mass BUT. That would only be correct if the model were printed with 100% infill density. Working out the actual centre of mass is more complicated. A printed model consists of wall loops, top and bottom shells that are effectively solid, and lower-density sparse infill. This means smaller but more geometrically complex sections often contain proportionally more walls and can end up denser than larger sections. Aware of this potential setback, I went ahead and printed anyway. Unsurprisingly, the model tilted to one side while floating.  To fix this, I just added more mass to the model on the opposite side by increasing the infill density. The three little adjacent floating islands were ideal for this. Since they are the furthest part of the model from the centre, even adding a little mass, makes a big difference to help balance the model. Their position can also be moved slightly with how they’re connected to further help distribute mass for balancing. At this point, I should probably mention that Bambu Lab also sells a version of the MagLev kit that includes little steel balls specifically for balancing models. But if I had used that version of the kit, I obviously wouldn’t have had anything to write about for this article. A Balancing ActIf you’ve ever used the Bambu Lab MagLev kit, you’ll know that getting a model to levitate for the first time can range from tricky to extremely challenging. Getting something this large and oddly shaped floating would have been practically impossible without some form of assistance. There were two possible solutions. Option 1: Create a temporary cradle that holds the model in exactly the right position relative to the base when first placing it. I briefly considered making a cradle in the shape of the crater Dalaran flew out of in-game. Option 2: Create a small floating magnet holder that levitates easily on its own, then slide the rest of the model over it afterwards. Option 2 seemed like the wiser choice. Floating magnet holder over which the rest of the model fits MOAR SPIRESOne of the more challenging aspects of the project was 3D printing the long, thin towers. Even though I modelled them to be thicker than their in-game proportions, they still tended to wobble during printing, which led to poor print quality or even print failures. For models with tall, slender vertical features, reducing print speed and increasing the number of wall loops can help minimise issues caused by parts flexing during the print.  In this case, increasing the Z-hop when retract, from the default 0.4 mm to 0.8 mm also led to a big improvement. This gives a little more leeway when the printer nozzle moves from part to part, and so when the printer starts depositing filament again the part hasn’t moved or bent from the printer moving to it. This is a printer or filament setting however that each user must set themselves when downloading and isn’t applied if printing from Bambu Handy. While the spires were able to print like this, they are still fragile and easy to break. I eventually decided it would be best to separate them altogether and have them print as independent parts. This means, if someone (me, someone is me) breaks one, they can reprint just the spire rather than having to reprint large portions of the model again. Final ThoughtsThere were plenty of other design decisions involved in adapting Dalaran for 3D printing: deciding which details to preserve in a model of this size, determining how to split the model to minimise supports, and ensuring it could be printed in full colour using a single AMS. Overall, I’m really happy with how it turned out, and I hope some others enjoy making and displaying their own little floating cities. Checkout the model here!:https://makerworld.com/en/models/3044527-dalaran-floating-city-of-the-kirin-tor  TL;DR for Horde players: Many design challenges faced especially to make model levitate and to print tiny details. End result good. Grunts

With the release of the Motorized Card Shuffler, I wanted to reflect back on the original Card Shuffler, and the creation of this Motorized version. When the Card Shuffler first released, it found an audience almost immediately, rising to become one of Makerworld's early success stories. The platform was still in beta, and the shuffler stood as a sign and participant in what Makerworld was growing into, and what 3D Printing was evolving into. Not just a tinkerer’s hobby anymore, but a tangible expression of design that was within the reach of all. From the original release of the shufflerThe Card Shuffler was an accumulation of evolving ideas and philosophies of what I thought 3d printing could be, of what I wanted out of it. The desire to design my own card shuffler came before Bambu even entered the market. The card shufflers being sold at the time weren’t anything too great. Loud, ugly. If you gave me two words to describe what was on offer. The 3d printable versions were proof of concepts, but nothing that could fully compete.A work in progress of the design. I had an idea for how I wanted the design to look, not just function, so before I got into doing test prints I was already exploring to make sure my design focused ideas could be achieved too. With this new generation of 3d printing and my first X1C I really started to explore and push my designs, how I constructed them. It was with an early iteration of Bambu’s Maker’s Beginner Kit that spurred the Card Shuffler project into action. It introduced the Screws and Bearings that would become the foundation of this project. My first time working with proper self-tapping plastic screws, and it made something click.The first fully printed prototype model.The Card Shuffler was also my first foray into mechanical movement. My first time creating gears. It was the foundation that helped me to explore further and more complex designs and movements. It started my love of the MR128 sized bearing that I often use throughout my designs. They certainly helped provide a smooth action to the whole mechanism. The sort of old printing presses that helped inspire the design of the card shuffler.I didn’t want to just make a functional card shuffler either, I wanted to make one that caught the eye, that inspired. That felt exciting to use and have there with you as you played. I based the design off old cast iron machinery and printing presses. I wanted everything to have form, to draw the eye in, so even things like the gears were given special attention and showcased beyond just being extrusions. The first draft for the Title page. I took screenshots from Fusion and edited them in Photoshop to add the coloring and layout.The Card Shuffler also ushered in a new era for me, with how I approached my assembly instructions. I felt like I had something special on my hands with this project, and I wanted to give as polished of an experience to every aspect as I could. That included the assembly instructions. The overall final look has mostly stayed the same, but the process for creating the instructions has been greatly refined. The first few I did were just raster images I colored in photoshop. Later versions are done with the help of illustrator, helping to create much clearer diagrams with the use of vectors.I knew I wanted to do something that felt as simple and iconic as the IKEA instruction manuals. Early on in experimenting, I started playing with colors and quickly set a color palette that would define every instruction I’ve created since then and helped me give my own flavor and style that helped set them apart. All in all, the Card Shuffler was a major milestone in my own journey and evolution as a designer, and a representation of what I thought 3d printing could be. I wanted to show that 3d printing could make fully polished products, not just trinkets. When the Card Shuffler was first released, the Maker’s Supply was still in its infancy, and the selection of components were still somewhat limited. I had been interested in doing a motor add-on, but the time wasn’t yet right. I had left the design somewhat open to make it easier to make a motor add-on, but there were still several questions as to how that would best work. I knew I wanted to have a switch, but I wasn’t sure how to best incorporate it into the design, and the only switch at the time was a latching switch. The momentary switch that’d later be released with the Cyberbrick was what I really wanted. I set the idea aside while I explored other projects and further built my experience. A closer look at the motors and electronicsHaving built a few designs around the 030 motors now, it gave me a little more experience working with them and getting the best out of them. I knew I’d have to use the Speed Controller to get the most out of this, but beyond that I wanted the electronics to be fully self-contained within the back of the card shuffler. As I got into the design itself too, I quickly realized that the best approach wasn’t just to stick a motor on the large gear.The re-designed gear layoutI had to ditch the large gear. I had some concerns about having a now motorized gear being exposed as openly (With the crank version, it kind of pushes you in a position where your hands are kept free of the large gear), but also it didn’t quite make sense when the driving force is a motor, vs my arm. I wanted to give each side its own driving motor, and with taking the large gear out too it gave me the perfect spot to put the momentary switch. Something that had been a big question on my mind.  Sadly, we lost a little coverage of the gear movements; one of the enjoyable aspects of the original design. The motor upgrade. I free-styled it a bit!One of my main goals was to try and contain as much of the motor upgrade to the back as I could, to reduce the number of parts that’d need to be printed if someone wanted to upgrade their old shuffler. While I originally intended it to be as easy as just swapping the back most plate, it did grow a little beyond that. Those changes undoubtedly helped produce a more polished and contained design though.  Who knows what the next version will bring. For now, though, I am excited for this new release, and next evolution of the Card Shuffler. If you print the original version, the motorized version, or are upgrading from one to the other, I hope you’re having as much of a blast with it as I had with designing it.

This is the second entry in our ongoing series about designing for 3D printing. If you’ve ever stared at a blank modeling window wondering where to begin, you’re not alone. Whether you’re just starting out or refining your process, this article focuses on helpful habits and mindset tips that make modeling more approachable and ultimately more enjoyable. We’ll touch on overcoming imposter syndrome, setting up smart base sketches, naming conventions, working with design allowances, and tips for managing complex projects. Let’s jump in.Imposter Syndrome Is Real, But You Got ThisThat initial hesitation when starting a model? That’s common. It’s easy to feel like everyone else knows what they’re doing, but the truth is, everyone starts somewhere. The key is breaking tasks into manageable steps and mastering the foundational tools in your modeling software before moving on to more advanced features. If you're not getting the hang of a modeling program, ask the community what works best for the type of model you're creating. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Most software lets you create version history or save backup files. If something doesn’t work the way you thought it would, no problem, revert and try again. You’ll be surprised how much progress you can make in just a few weeks just trying out different features.Use a Base Plate Sketch to Keep Scale in CheckOne of the most helpful starting points is drawing a sketch that matches your printer’s build plate. This isn’t just about staying within bounds, it helps you mentally visualize the size and layout of your final design. We like to include construction lines for common build volumes like the Bambu Lab X1C, A1, A1 Mini and now the massive H2D, along with the purge line exclusion zones, so we don’t end up designing something that can’t actually be printed.It may sound basic, but having that reference on screen helps you avoid accidental under/oversizing or wasting time reworking layout issues. Certainly export your model draft from time to time to ensure it will fit on the build plate if you like that approach better.Printed Parts as Physical Reference PointsDigital scale can be deceptive. You might spend hours zoomed in on a tiny model, only to find out the printed result is too small to be useful, or way bigger than you thought. Yes, calipers are essential. But we also recommend keeping a few printed parts on your desk that you’re very familiar with in terms of size. Being able to hold and compare something tangible is incredibly helpful, especially for designing parts meant to be handled or fit with other physical objects.Name Things as You GoModeling a full project can take several sessions. If you're using a tool like Onshape or Fusion, you know how quickly your feature tree fills up with “Sketch 14, Extrude 27, and Part 9”. Provide your model features with clear names and be consistent. When we designed the model above, it would have been challenging to remember all of the parts without clear naming.  Naming your sketches and features as you go saves you time and frustration later. If you ever need to go back a few weeks from now and tweak a specific cutout or detail, you'll know exactly where to look.Streamline Large Projects with SuppressionIf your model starts lagging or slowing down your computer, there’s a good chance your design has too many active features. One way to speed things up is by suppressing geometry you don’t need at the moment. It’s like muting parts of the design that aren't relevant to your current focus. Also, consider spreading your design across multiple part studios or equivalent in your design program, especially if you're working on a larger project. And save fillets, chamfers, and other cosmetic touches for the end—unless they’re critical to the geometry you’re building off of.Prototyping and Getting Tolerances RightSelect a small piece of the model to test print. Dialing in your fit tolerances is both art and science. While printers like those from Bambu Lab can hit tight tolerances, your designs still need to work on less-than-perfectly-calibrated machines by makers that will download your model. Start by printing a few tolerance tests from MakerWorld to see what works best for your setup. Then, when designing your own models, isolate the parts that need testing, like joints, connections, or screw holes, and slice only that section using the “cut” feature in Bambu Studio. That way, you’re not wasting filament or time on full prints when testing one tiny part.Choose the Next TopicIf there’s a specific aspect of design, you’d like us to cover, let us know! Be sure to follow us on MakerWorld to see our latest releases and updates. Happy printing! If you missed the last article, find it here!

Our Approach to Design: A Series on 3D ManufacturingWe wanted to create a fun series for both new and experienced designers to explore 3D modeling for 3D manufacturing. Some of what we’ll cover might already be familiar, but hopefully, there are a few key takeaways that will help refine your approach. Rather than an overwhelming guide, we’ll break things down into focused articles, each covering a few core topics at a time. If there are specific models or techniques, you'd like us to explore in more detail, feel free to comment. And if you're following us on MakerWorld, you’ll stay updated on our latest designs and insights.Saving Material by Designing Supportless ModelsNot all models can be designed entirely without supports, but we aim to minimize waste whenever possible. With the growing number of makers printing our designs worldwide, we’ve made it a priority to ensure our models are efficient to print. One of the simplest ways to avoid unnecessary supports is by ensuring overhangs do not exceed 45 degrees. If a design requires steeper angles, adaptive layer height adjustments in the slicer can help reduce sagging. For bridging, keeping spans short is crucial to avoid drooping. Orienting bridges properly in the slicer using modifiers, if necessary, ensures optimal filament paths and reduces failed prints. A great example of this approach can be seen in our Bank Heist - Brain Teasing Strategy Game, where strategic orientation and design choices eliminated the need for excess support material.Supportless HolesWhen designing holes, particularly countersunk ones, the challenge is ensuring the printer has a solid base to work from. Without careful design, the printer might end up extruding material into thin air, resulting in poor-quality holes or requiring additional supports. One approach is to design intentional bridging supports into the model. By removing material beside the hole, about 0.2 to 0.4mm, it creates an opportunity for a few layers of solid bridging before the hole is fully formed. This technique provides a clean, support-free circular extrusion.For larger holes, a technique we refer to as “stacking triangles” can be used, where multiple small cuts near the hole allow for more structured bridging. This is especially useful in parts like Maker’s Supply plastic gear reduction housing design, where precise tolerances matter. When designing horizontal holes, teardrop shapes work better than perfect circles, as they ensure no overhangs exceed 45 degrees. This is particularly important for models meant to be visually appealing, such as our Skee Ball - Fun Marble Arcade Series, where smooth, clean openings enhance the final product.Screws vs. SnapsBoth screws and snap-fit connections have their advantages and drawbacks. In earlier designs, we frequently used snap-fit components, which received mixed feedback. While some users appreciated the hardware-free assembly, others found that prints made with brittle filament could snap too easily, or that slight filament variations led to a loose fit. Snap fits require precise design and correct print orientation to prevent layer lines from becoming weak points. While we’ve developed a snap-fit pattern that works well, it’s still a challenge to get right across different filaments and printers. A great example of a snap-fit design is our Disc Launch Challenge - Fun Target Game, which showcases a compact, well-tuned snap mechanism.Recently, we’ve shifted toward machine or self-tapping screws in more of our designs. Screws offer a more consistent and reliable connection, making assemblies more robust and repeatable. This is particularly beneficial for larger models or those subjected to repeated use. Using screws can also reduce filament consumption by eliminating thickened snap-fit areas while ensuring a strong connection. If you regularly incorporate screws into your designs, keeping a set of commonly used screws on hand for testing is a good practice. We recommend creating reusable screw hole templates in your CAD software to streamline future designs. For the most secure fits, heat-set inserts are an option, though they require additional steps that some makers may prefer to avoid. A great example of how we’ve leveraged screws for improved durability is our Hot Wheels-Compatible Launcher - Power Up the Track!, where self-tapping screws create a solid, repeatable build.Choose the Next TopicIf there’s a specific aspect of design you’d like us to cover, let us know! Be sure to follow us on MakerWorld to see our latest releases and updates. Happy printing!