Jszimmy

3DMN

&nbsp;Will fit any standard 1/2" shower head pipe.&nbsp;Introducing the T-Rex Shower Head – where Jurassic meets modern convenience! Transform your daily shower routine into a prehistoric adventure with this unique and whimsical bathroom accessory.&nbsp;If you appreciate my work, give it a like, and if you love it, consider buying me a coffee to show your support! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=BC7SWTMZG92TG</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

T-Rex Shower Head

house stuff

mom.condon

I know this is not perfictly round but it works for chicken and duck.did test design in 123D.thin sliced and diced it with Bamb studios.Pleas Like and share the link as much as You want to.the pic is of it in my 400 egg incubator i made and controle with a Arduino nano.Ty.

25 Egg incubator tray. For Chicken and Duck.

chickens

Wekster

if you like this kind of stuff consider supporting me on my Patreon patreon.com/wekster

Venom

marvel

CaesarOfSalads

Designed to hold up to 14 straws with a diameter of 11.mm, this organizer can be mounted either horizontally as shown, or also vertically. It&#39;s the perfect place to give them a proper home, instead of being thrown about in the cabinet. The tabs for the screws are fairly small, so you will want to use small screws. Thankfully, not much weight needs to be held up.&nbsp;There are two version available now. 14 straws, and 12 (designed to print on the A1 Mini)

Straw Holder/Organizer

organizers 

3dmieks

Brick Stormtrooper&nbsp;I have setup and coloured all the plates with supports and support blockers&nbsp;Need White, Black, Grey, and Yellow PLA<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/IHH8wLNhOiY"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHH8wLNhOiY"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IHH8wLNhOiY" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure>&nbsp;

650% Brick Stormtrooper

Printing

uni3Dworld

High density model of Sad Woman vase ideal for suculentsFormat STL and OBJCreated in blenderMaterial PLA2 perimeters15 % infill

Sad Woman Vase

vase/art/plant holder

Jerry

<h3>Background:</h3>First of all, this was inspired by a commercially available product. However, as reviewers indicated, the pieces do not stay in place as intended, and does not include checkers pieces.So, the challenge to design a portable chess and checkers set that would allow players to have a match anywhere, and roll it up after a match or even in the middle of the match and resume the match at a later time. This is great for students to play in between classes, or during break, or anyone who loves a nice chess match. The approximate dimensions of the chess/checker set when rolled up is ~3.5in ø (~86mm ø) x ~ 8in (~204mm). Weighs ~453g (~16oz). This is what a 24oz (700ml) water bottle looks like next to it.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/b91eaaf1-9807-4160-afa4-d21b86f34686.gif"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/abdab2cc-02fe-4df2-acc5-613a389a4577.jpg">The chess pieces are 15mm ø x 10mm, which is about 6 US dimes in height and below is what it looks like next it.The checker picks are 15mm ø x 6mm, which is about 4 US dimes in height and below is what it looks like next to it.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/5fa43a13-5fac-4f45-ba22-9022dbb4d0f7.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/7958c84f-1032-458c-87ea-591c17db8ef0.jpg"><h3>Project considerations:</h3>The main body of the chess board is 233.7mm x 204mm. Because the main body uses print-in-place design for all the moving parts, this will unfortunately not fit on a Prusa mini. This barely fits on my Prusa mk3s+ because it was printed with 8m brim.UPDATED: Smaller version now available. Main body is 211.95mm x 190.32mm.I printed this entire project using Prusament ASA on my Prusa mk3s+ inside an enclosure. The default print profile with brim still had a partial failure due to wrapping. So many changes were made to the default Prusament ASA profile help equalize the structural pulling forces between the perimeter and the infill (detailed print settings below). Your experience may vary :)<h3>Challenges:</h3><ol><li>ASA/ABS is known to wrap during printing. Enclosure is highly recommend for this project if ASA/ABS filament is used. </li><li>Keeping the polarity of all the magnets while attempting to glue things together with epoxy was the main challenge. </li><li>***VERY IMPORTANT*** All the pieces and the play surface magnets MUST BE aligned in attraction orientation. </li><li>Working with 5 minute epoxy and strong neodymium magnets were challenging. Magnets would want to move the tiles during the glue up process. So, you&#39;d have to work quickly and accurately (making sure the magnet orientation is correct). I had a few pieces that I had to reprint because the magnet flipped during glueing process.</li></ol><h3>Required materials to complete this project:</h3><ol><li>214 - 10mm x 1.7mm neodymium magnets. Amazon have quite a few sellers all have these magnets listed as 10mm x2mm. However, their actual dimensions are 10 mm x ~1.7mm. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096ZR3DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_AE0K9EHXZ3ZJZZESY2TF?linkCode=ml1&amp;tag=sparkystrikes-20&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow">This Amazon Link</a> is what I used.</li><li>Smaller board option - 212 - 10mm x 1.7mm neodymium magnets. Amazon have quite a few sellers all have these magnets listed as 10mm x2mm. However, their actual dimensions are 10 mm x ~1.7mm. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096ZR3DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_AE0K9EHXZ3ZJZZESY2TF?linkCode=ml1&amp;tag=sparkystrikes-20&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow">This Amazon Link</a> is what I used.</li><li>24 - 4mm x 1.7mm neodymium magnets. Amazon have many sellers all have these magnets listed as 4mm x2mm. However, their actual dimensions are 4 mm x ~1.7mm. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SLG2RDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_STMRD08FY8Q2VDFCVWAH?linkCode=ml1&amp;tag=sparkystrikes-20" rel="nofollow">This Amazon Link</a> is what I used.</li><li>Any 5 minute epoxy or glue of your choice for the material used in printing. I didn&#39;t go with CA (cyanoacrylate aka super) glue as it does not have any working time, additionally, if a bit too much glue is used, the risk of creating a white haze on the part was very likely. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1PP22T/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_VZARPFSGVWJWARHV6JK9?linkCode=ml1&amp;tag=sparkystrikes-20" rel="nofollow">This Amazon link</a> is what I used.</li></ol><h3>Step for completing the project: </h3>(This is my approach, but your milage may very)<ol><li>Print the main body.</li><li>Test all the print-in-place hinges are working properly by rolling up the chess board ensuring that the chess board will close properly.</li><li>Print the rest of the black tiles, chess, checker pieces and all of its spacers.</li><li>Using a #1 x-acto knife, carefully remove the supports from the chess pieces, and save these supports pieces as the inlay pieces for the white chess pieces. This part is completely optional. The designs of the pieces can just be painted too.</li><li>Change to white filament (might consider wiping the nozzle clean and extra purge to ensure all the black filament residue are cleared out of the filament path)</li><li>Print the rest of the white tiles, chess pieces and all of its spacers.</li><li>Using a sharp #1 x-acto knife, carefully remove the supports from the chess pieces, and save these supports pieces as the inlay pieces for the black chess pieces. This part is completely optional. The designs of the pieces can just be painted too.</li><li>Test fit all the tiles to the main body. Test fit every inlay for every chess piece to ensure proper fit.</li><li>Glue all the magnets to the underside cavity of the tiles. Again, very important that all the magnets in this step are correctly oriented.</li><li>Glue all the magnets that holds the rolled up play surface. Again, very important that all the magnets are in correct orientation so it would hold the rolled up play surface closed.</li><li>Glue all the white inlays to the black chess pieces, and black inlays to the white chess pieces.</li><li>Allow glue to cure completely for steps 8 - 11. (epoxy ~24 hours)</li><li>Glue all the play surface tiles to the main body. This part does require you to work quickly and accurately as the piece will slide around as the magnets with their orientation will want to repel away from each other. Only tackle one section at a time and not the entire play surface all at once.</li><li>Glue all the magnets, and spacers for all chess and checker pieces. Again, all the magnets must be in correct orientation so they would stay in place on the board, and they would stack on top of each other. See below for cut away view of the pieces. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/ac0c83e5-5e10-40c7-a1bc-3392eb892fec.png"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/d9d41fb4-bb1f-4405-b70b-91fc787b8d96.png"></li><li>Allow glue to cure completely for steps 13 and 14. (epoxy ~ 24 hours)</li><li>Get a friend and play a few matches :)</li></ol><h3>Additional considerations / tips:</h3><ol><li>I used a metal (ferrous metal) ruler to hold all the correctly oriented magnets just before I needed them for glue up process. I&#39;ve even use a black permanent marker to mark the one side so I alway know which orientation the magnets.</li><li>Use just enough glue during the glue up process. The design have relatively tight tolerances, and any excess glue may cause the tiles or pieces not fit or sit properly.</li><li>The syringe style epoxy is difficult to control the amount of resin and hardener. The syringe never pushes out the same amount. I went with individual bottle epoxy resin and hardener instead.</li><li>I used toothpicks to apply epoxy to all the pieces. This is slower but much more precise. </li><li>I used coffee wooden mixing sticks to apply epoxy play surface tiles.</li><li>The little notch you see in the design are air and glue vents to allow air to escape or excess glue to flow to.</li><li>When gluing up the play surface: Work in sections instead of attempting the entire play surface all at once. </li><li>Needle nose tweezers will help with the gluing process of the inlays.</li></ol><h3>Lastly….</h3>The chess piece can be elevated by stacking on top of a checker piece to signify its promotion. The tongue and groove design allows the chess piece to stack on top of a checker piece neatly, and shouldn&#39;t come apart during play. The same design on the checker pieces allows them to stack neatly when not in use. During a chess match, as pieces are captured, the outer edges will accommodate total of 15 pieces. Keep in mind the commercial product can be purchased for just slightly more than the total cost of this project. But what&#39;s the fun in that?Happy printing :)<h3>Updates:</h3>5/7/2023 - added 5 additional main body options with 1mm ~ 5mm rounded tips. Note that as the rounded radius increase the gap increases and the model may not be as tightly fitted model as it should. The original design is 0.2mm rounded tip which imho is adequate. The photos may be misleading. Here&#39;s a close-up photo of 0.2mm radius. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/2024-02-22_aj2u6l70ul9b.png"></figure><h3> </h3>5/7/2023 - Added STL files for those with multi-color support. This will allow the printing of the tiles for each section all at once, and speed up the assembly process.&nbsp;5/8/2023 - Added STL file for a single tile. Will require to print total of 60 tiles. 28 Black tiles and 32 white tiles&nbsp;5/8/2023 - Added STL for chess pieces inlays for those who wish to print the inlays. Thanks to Radish&#39;s suggestion. The inlays are offset in X, Y by 0.05mm.&nbsp;5/10/2023 - Due to popular demand. Smaller version added. The main body is 211.95mm x 190.32mm. The chess and checker pieces remained the same size. However, the play surface is significantly smaller. The smaller board option uses 2 less of the 10x1.7mm magnets. So, 212 of the 10x1.7mm magnets. (thanks to for265&#39;s eagle eye for asking the great question)&nbsp;5/12/2023 - Added dual color STL files for all the play surfaces and chess pieces. Note if you&#39;re printing using multi-color support. All the chess pieces will NOT require support during printing. &nbsp;6/1/2023 - Added two hinge test print STL files. <h3> </h3><h3>Print settings:</h3>All the tolerances of this project was design to be printed using 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. Layer height: 0.2mmBrim: highly recommended for the main body only.Outer perimeter: 3Inner perimeter: 3Infill pattern: honeycomb Infill percentage: 25%Top layer count: 5Bottom layer count: 5Print bed: Prusa textured PEI<h4>Supports settings:</h4><ol><li>Checker pieces requires supports. Use “Support on build plate only” option.</li><li>Main body - No supports</li><li>All the tiles - No supports</li><li>Chess pieces will require supports only if inlay option is selected. Use “Support on build plate only” option. In Prusa Slicer, if the inlay portion isn&#39;t filled in as shown here on the left. Go to the supports section and uncheck “Don&#39;t support bridges” option. Correct support should look like picture on the right. No supports are required if you do not plan to have inlays. </li></ol><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/f9e3f859-5039-465e-aa51-49a58db3674d.png"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000196558/design/0b9397a3-b996-445d-b4a5-3548b66db743.png"><h3>Number of pieces required:</h3>King - 1 for each color.Queen - 1 for each color.Bishops - 2 for each color.Knights - 2 for each color.Rooks - 2 for each color.Pawns - 8 for each color.Checkers - 12 for each color.

Roll-up Chess/Checker - magnetic

chess

LemonArts

Ford Mustang GT Fastback Model Kit a model of the legendary Ford Mustang Fastback GT Easy to Print. Multicolor use glue to assemble<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 73.52%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000485736/design/2024-06-05_4228556bc2d56.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 74.17%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000485736/design/2024-06-05_7de736b63d799.jpg"></figure>

Ford Mustang Fastback GT Kit

cars

Tomasz Janota | TomsDragonPaws

Fully movable dragon with a movable jaw ATTENTION:&nbsp;There are a few version<ul><li>No eyes -&gt; dragon with movable jaw and no eyes; here you can insert glass eye or you can print separate eyes (raw stl)</li><li>Merged eyes -&gt; dragon with movable jaw with merged eyes; you don&#39;t need to insert eyes</li><li>Merged jaw -&gt; dragon without movable jaw; with merged eyes</li></ul>SCALE: 100% scale is for glass eye 6mm; you can resize the dragon if you need&nbsp;ASSEMBLING the head Everything is printed in place except the movable jaw and eyes depending on the configuration If you have the No Eyes version, I recommend gluing the eyes first (with glue or modeling clay) and then painting/attaching the jaw COMMERCIAL LICENSE I do not allow the sale of files or printed models, both original and remixed; If you want a commercial license to sell prints, please contact me <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000138823/design/e1c5efd1-d7d4-4ba9-adbb-bf8cbf901486">    <a target="_blank" href="https://buymeacoffee.com/tomaszjanoz" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy me a coffee   </a>&nbsp;p.s. I&#39;d love to see your versions, so share photos of your prints! :)

Articulated dragon with movable jaw

Articulating

PrintinPlace

<h2>THE POOP SCREAM</h2>&nbsp;How many times have you screamed in fear after seeing how much your printer pooped? This is the representation of the face of each of us, every time we collect tons of purge.&nbsp;Shopping List:&nbsp;<ul><li>150x100x1 mm acrylic glass</li><li>A little drop of superglue</li></ul>Filament i used:<ul><li>Brown PLA By amazon</li><li>eSun Bones White PLA</li><li>eSun Black PLA</li><li>Creality White Sparkle PLA</li><li>eSun Red PLA</li></ul>The only piece that requires gluing is the character. the rest of the frame is interlocking.&nbsp;Here you can Find the assembly Video:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@printinplace/video/7360012546155302176" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.tiktok.com/@printinplace/video/7360012546155302176</a>&nbsp;I decided not to glue the poops, but you can glue them to prevent them from moving, or you can take a nice resin bath for a more spectacular effect!&nbsp;And That&#39;s it! &nbsp;HAPPY PRINTS

The Poop Scream - Frame Box

poop

Jamboodle

Americana Butterfly Layered Plaque 3 color plaque. Can be used as wall art or on a counter . Prints in 3 color as an assembly. Layered to minimize waste.&nbsp;Watch for more Independence Day Prints coming in the upcoming weeks. Follow me to know when they are released.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 412px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000485278/design/2024-06-04_3b5fadc61422f.png"></figure>If you appreciate this model remaining free please consider giving it a like and maybe a Boost. Be sure to post your print in the comments for everyone to see.&nbsp;Please check out my other work: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2300808475" rel="nofollow noopener">Jamboodle</a>&nbsp;Thanks for looking and Happy Printing!&nbsp;

American Flag butterfly Layered Plaque

America 

Basti85

Hi guys,&nbsp;this is my magic minecraft sword. There are two versions:&nbsp;<ul><li>the sculpture (use the NON LED Base)</li><li>the lamp (use the LED Kit Base) → I used silver silk filament as I ran out of grey. That is the reason it&#39;s shining through (see the picture). It should not shine through with usual grey PLA filament.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 29.41%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-24_c07b4f782feec.jpg"></figure><h3> </h3><h3>The filament I used:</h3><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/petg-transluzent?variant=47502089290076" rel="nofollow noopener">Translucent PETG Bambu Filament → turquoise</a> (is also used as interface layer → see the second video)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-basic-filament-de?variant=43992830017755" rel="nofollow noopener">Basic PLA Bambu Filament → black</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-basic-filament-de?variant=46956524241244" rel="nofollow noopener">Basic PLA Bambu Filament → grey</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-seide?variant=46636020597084" rel="nofollow noopener">Silk PLA Bambu Filament → chopper</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament/products/pla-seide?variant=46636020531548" rel="nofollow noopener">Silk PLA Bambu Filament → gold</a></li></ul>ATTENTION (UPDATE 24.06.2024 23:26 Germany):In order to improve the light throughput I exchanged this part<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 21.11%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-24_af7af4ca84bf8.jpg"></figure>with this part (2x)<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 20.4%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-24_65910b7ede79b.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;This improves the light throughput tremendously!&nbsp;Before:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 35.23%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-24_dede51ea0f95.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;After the mod:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 34.55%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-24_d1e9a2b6c35b.jpg"></figure>P.S.: my base is still the prototype printed in silk PLA not completely blocking the light. that&#39;s why it&#39;s shining through! this is just because I ran out of grey filament. grey should completely block the light behind 2 walls.<h3>Assembly:</h3><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqfjOXWf1DI&amp;ab_channel=B%40sti"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Easy remove of supports:</h3>ATTENTION:when you print the hilt &lt;&lt;PETG&gt;&gt; is used for the interface layer. this is no error! this creates a perfect surface and is easy to remove.&nbsp;Whenever your object only partially hits the print plate you need supports. I think this is quite clear ;) <figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 48.66%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_d05131ae3c50f.png"></figure>When you print PLA and also use PLA as support interface you might get in trouble regarding the surface. Here a few examples:&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 21.42%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_5834ac8d151e3.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 21.13%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_7a547fcc283c7.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 21.01%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_94f2ff16105df.jpg"></figure><ul><li>you get an ugly surface</li><li>you might need to clean the object and need a lot of time for this</li><li>using special support PLA might remain on the object (white surface)</li></ul>PVA is solving this but there is also another simple / efficient / cheap solution!&nbsp;Using different materials which are not printable on each other also resolve this issue e.g. PLA on PETG or vice versa. They remain on each other during printing but you can simply get them off without any cleaning / issues:&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.91%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_6cb9ed828755.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.42%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_78b26a09bfab6.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.08%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000503862/design/2024-06-23_bb9583f7ff1d6.jpg"></figure>The surface is much more clean and most of the time all material is easily removeable without any further cleaning!&nbsp;See the complete video for more details:<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-N2ShQLTzk&amp;ab_channel=B%40sti"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;BR &amp; happy printing!B@sti

Magic Minecraft Sword (Sculpture / Lamp)

Minecraft 

Codyinbody3

Hey all, this is the finaly Fallout lightbox I plan on making for awhile. This was made by special request from one of my followers and I thought it looked cool so I went ahead and made it. Enjoy!&nbsp;Settings: The print profile settings are setup specifically for the frontplate only so you won&#39;t have wisps or colors bleed into each other or have those random dots of a darker color that you can only see when you get a light behind it. These are the best settings I&#39;ve found to take care of that out of the 1000s of lamps I&#39;ve printed. When going to print the backplate, be sure to change the filament settings. You&#39;ll want to change the first layer and other layers temps back to 220 on both. Then you can choose to take off retraction and zhop but it won&#39;t mess with the quality either way.

Vault Boy Nuke Riding LED Lamp

LED lamps 

Mini Superman

cute guys

PhaseworksCA

Marvel at the iconic Iron Man with this low poly geometric 3D print, featuring the superhero standing facing boldly forward. This modern design captures his powerful stance in sharp, angular lines, perfect for fans of superheroes and contemporary art.&nbsp;Happy printing :)&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><a href="https://www.printables.com/@PhaseworksCA/store" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/599315/2024-02-27_cbac20a9d0926.png"></a><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>

Geometric Low Poly Iron Man

line art

fightstickclub

Designed a Barbie box in the size of a Funko Pop box for my daughter&#39;s toys&nbsp;Used GIANTARM pink rose PLAhttps://a.co/d/2gWbaPe&nbsp;Print in pieces without support and glue parts together

Funko Pop-sized Barbie Box

woman 

DeepSouth3DPrints

Standing Grinch Door Corner!UPDATE:(I've uploaded two more print profiles for the model to be printedFace Down on the build plate which will give the model a clean textured lookwhen using the gold pei plate!)&nbsp;I uploaded both the right and left print profile versions.Please give it a like! It helps getting noticed forothers to enjoy. Thanks andMerry Christmas!&nbsp;You can find my other Christmas decorations <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1201824007/collections/122929" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>

Standing Grinch Door Corner

Christmas 

fay3dlab

&nbsp;Here&#39;s a new star wars desk lamp collection and this time its the Tie Interceptor.. since i already made <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/429160#profileId-333482" rel="nofollow noopener">the tie fighter</a>.. i thought i might as well make the interceptor as well since they use the same body.. This time i&#39;m using the IKEA FORSA work lamp as the arm.. you&#39;ll need to gut the lamp and wiring since it uses AC power.. The tie interceptor uses the same <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4g18i" rel="nofollow noopener">bambu LED Kit 001←-affiliate link</a> for the lamp..and for the wiring.. you can replaced the ikea lamp wiring with the <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4g18i" rel="nofollow noopener">bambu LED Kit 001</a> wires.. i brought a different dc wire with switch cause i want it to be black in color to follow the theme of the lamp.. you&#39;ll need to unsolder the LED puck with the wiring first and run the wire throught the desk lamp arm.. You can find the led wiring with switch here in <a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EyOWdyF" rel="nofollow noopener">my aliexpress affiliate link</a>I used a working lamp similar to IKEA FORSA desk lamp that i found on aliexpress.. you can buy them using <a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mtJxTqA" rel="nofollow noopener">my affiliate links here</a>..<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 93.22%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000496120/design/2024-06-20_d47488f81424.webp"></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mtJxTqA" rel="nofollow noopener">Aliexpress version</a></td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.9%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000496120/design/2024-06-20_4399006d47f12.png"></figure>IKEA FORSA</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 46.03%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000496120/design/2024-06-15_07c2f22f55a93.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;The installation is the same with <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/429160#profileId-333482" rel="nofollow noopener">my tie fighter desk lamp</a>.. its just the wings are different.. you can follow the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instructables.com/Tie-fighter-Desk-Lamp/" rel="nofollow noopener">assembly instruction here</a><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 46.15%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000496120/design/2024-06-15_7204102f149af.jpg"></figure>I painted the desk lamp with airbrush metalic colors since i plan to give the desk lamp to a friend of mine for his birthday.. I did provide the project file with multicolor print.. but i think its better to paint it and give it a more realistic paint job..  <figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 82.07%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000496120/design/2024-06-15_3852d81b3b0fc.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;I hope you&#39;ll have fun 3d printing the tie interceptor desk lamp&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="height: 162.344px; width: 960px"><table style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px double rgb(179, 179, 179)"><tbody><tr><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191); padding: 0.4em">If you would like to support me, you can join me on my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/fay3dlab" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee</a> page..</td></tr><tr><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191); padding: 0.4em">By joining me as a supporter.. you&#39;ll be able to get behind the scenes informationon my current projects as well as future projects..</td></tr><tr><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191); padding: 0.4em">And if you&#39;re looking to sell my prints.. you can join my merchant membership tier as lowas USD10 a month..</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Tie Interceptor Desk Lamp LED kit 001

star wars

3DPrintNovesia

Overview: This model is a 3D-printable, collapsible katana that creatively utilizes a real potato for its initial form. The potato was 3D scanned and artistically transformed into the sleek, traditional silhouette of a katana. This design is particularly innovative, featuring a print-in-place mechanism that requires minimal post-printing assembly.Design Features:<ul><li>Print-in-Place Mechanism: Designed to be printed in one piece, which allows for a seamless, foldable structure that mimics the compact and elegant nature of a katana.</li><li>Magnetic Cap Connection: Utilizes six 5mmx3mm magnets to attach the cap securely to the handle, ensuring the katana remains intact and functional.</li></ul>Specifications:<ul><li>Material Needed: PLA ilament for the katana, and six neodymium magnets for the cap.</li><li>Printing Time: Approximately 5-7 hours, depending on the printer’s settings and resolution.</li></ul>&nbsp;Assembly Instructions:<ul><li>Step 1: Print the katana model. Ensure that your 3D printer is calibrated to handle intricate details for best results.</li><li>Step 2: Once printed, place the six magnets into the recesses on the inside of the cap. Glue may be used for a permanent bond.</li><li>Step 3: Align the cap with the handle; the magnets will snap together, securing the cap.</li></ul>

Potato Sword

Swords

Bamingo Design

<ul><li>🌊🌀 Dive into the mesmerizing world of waves with our Wave Coasters, designed with a realistic image view that captures the beauty and movement of the ocean.</li></ul>Wave Coaster: Capturing the Ocean<ul><li>🎨 Vivid View: Our Wave Coasters feature a detailed and intricate design of waves, reminiscent of the famous Japanese woodblock print “The Great Wave off Kanagawa”. The wave patterns on each coaster are dynamic and full of movement, giving a visual impression of rolling waves.</li><li>👶 Easy to Print: No need for (AMS) or (MMU). Only two manual filament swaps are needed to complete the model.</li></ul>Technical Specifications:<ul><li>📏 Size:<ul><li>10 cm</li></ul></li><li>🔧 Print Settings:<ul><li>Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm</li></ul></li><li>🌈 Color Changes:<ul><li>Start with Blue</li><li>At layer #12 (1.04 mm), change to Light Blue</li><li>At layer #18 (1.52 mm), change to White for the rest.</li></ul></li><li>📋 Assembly and Usage Tips:<ul><li>Alternatively, use our ready-to-print 3MF file—it automates these steps.</li><li>The files are available in STL, Prusa 3MF, and Bambu Lab 3MF file formats.</li></ul></li></ul>Explore More Designs:<ul><li>Dive deeper into our collection of nature-inspired coasters for more designs that capture the beauty of the natural world:<ul><li>🗼 <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/251129#profileId-267476" rel="nofollow noopener">City Coasters</a></li><li>⛰️ <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/30652#profileId-27193" rel="nofollow noopener">Mountain Coasters</a></li><li>❄️ <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/84832#profileId-90731" rel="nofollow noopener">Snowflake Coasters</a></li></ul></li></ul>Licensing Information:<ul><li>These designs are for personal use only. To access them for commercial purposes and enjoy exclusive benefits, consider joining our Memberships. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@BamingoDesign#join:397" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables Memberships</a></li></ul>Stay Connected:<ul><li>Be the first to know about our newest designs by following us on Twitter and Instagram. Find all our social media links and more at <a target="_blank" href="http://bamingodesign.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">bamingodesign.com</a>.</li><li>We&#39;re excited to see your creations! Tag us when sharing photos of your prints and connect with us. Your feedback and requests are always welcome. 💙</li></ul>

Wave Coasters - Hueforge

Hueforge

ENIQUE3D

if the giant gyro display model is too big for you, i present the Desktop Mini gyro.&nbsp;perfect for sitting on your desktop with buttery smooth spinning motion.&nbsp;Made for the A1 mini and a 4 hr print&nbsp;The stand is tight on purpose. It does require a little force to clip in. But there is no wobble once in.

Desktop Mini gyro

sold 

Jopek Design

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/590665/2024-02-26_zpk0zhn91zj7.png"></figure><h4>Dimensions (LxWxH)</h4>170 x 96 x 65mm (100% scale)<h4>Basic information</h4>After multiple requests, I've decided to revisit my previously uploaded Orca design, and articulate it. Unfortunately Mattes beat me to it, and has already uploaded an <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/186429#profileId-205262" rel="nofollow noopener">Orca model</a> himself, so definitely check it out as well. I've decided to release the design anyway, as it would be a pity to scrap it completely, especially considering all the work that has been invested into it. I believe that my implementation of this idea still has something to offer, and isn't just a blind “copy” of the already existent design. It's unfortunate, that we both had the same idea at the same time, but I think there is enough space for both of us. I just wanted to clarify that, as I don't want to look like a copycat, or the Edison of 3D modelling :)&nbsp;Now briefly about the design itself: The model has 8 movable parts: The body is split into 6 segments + 2 movable fins. It prints in place, and no additional assembly is required. The base model is slightly oversized, so that all the fine details come out nicely, namely if you're printing in multicolor. If you're printing it in a single color only, and aren't bothered with loss of definition too much, feel free to downscale it to your liking. The model has been thoroughly tested, and should print fine up to 50% of the original size in single color, if you have a well calibrated, and reasonably accurate setup. Good cooling is very important, as the dorsal fin is fairly thin, and sticks out. It's advised to print at least two instances of the model to give the fin enough time to cool down and solidify, especially if your machine has trouble with cooling, or if you're printing a significantly downscaled version.<h4>Files information</h4>I've included 3 files: All of them are in the .stl format, and sorted into 2 folders. The folders are labeled Singlecolor and Multicolor, the single color folder contains 1 file, which is a plain, 1 piece version of the model, intended for single color printing. The Multicolor folder contains 2 files for multicolor printing, each file is named after the color, which was used on the example model in the image gallery. Import them all at once into your slicer as one file with multiple parts, and it should automatically align the parts, and assign an individual color to each of them.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/590665/2024-02-26_cbwntm48bfb1.png"></figure><h4>Material</h4>PLA<h4>Layer height</h4>0,2 mm<h4>Infill</h4>>15%<h4>Support</h4>None. The model doesn't require any support material.<h4>Scaling</h4>Possible, but mind the accuracy of your setup. If you go too far with your scaling experiments, you might run into issues such as fused segments, or fragile links. If you have a well calibrated setup, you should be able to print the model at up to 50% of the original size without any issues, other than a definition loss.<h4>Orientation</h4>Default, laid flat on the belly<h4>Adhesion aid</h4>Not necessary, the contact area with the buildplate should be sufficient. However if your print surface suffers from poor adhesion, consider using an adhesive spray, or some other kind of adhesion booster. Using a brim is possible, but not recommended, as it would be too difficult, and inconvenient to remove afterwards.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/590665/2024-02-26_c7okytd6aceh.png"></figure>This section contains a list of all updates and fixes, which were introduced to the model along the way. Each update will be thoroughly explained, so that you know, which issue was each specific update addressing. If you're having any problems with the model, you can check here, if a new, revised version of the model, has already been released in a response to your problem, or not.If you run into any issues with the model, please pay a visit to a section of known issues, which can be found just below the Updates and fixes. If you won't find your specific problem in there, don't hesitate to contact me via dm!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/590665/2024-02-26_y881a3834u7b.png"></figure>There currently aren't any known issues/work in progress. If you run into any, please contact me via dm.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/590665/2024-02-26_2nc49uiutzxt.png"></figure>My work is free for personal, non commercial use. If you want to sell, or monetize my models in any other way, please contact me via dm, and we will talk over further details, terms and conditions, and your individual pricing plan.

Articulated Orca (singlecolor and multicolor)

other sites 

Sevro

Stylized pendant in shape of sea turtle

Sea Turtle Pendant

keychains

entroisdimensions_figurine

Ninetales is now available, and you have the choice between different file formats:<ul><li>STL</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Bambu Lab printer</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Prusa printer</li></ul>Video of printing the model: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> For printing, I used PolyLite and PolyTerra PLA filament from Polymaker: 5 colors version:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polylite-pla?variant=40603478655033" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyLite PLA Cream</a> (for body)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351904825" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra Pastel Peach</a> (for tails)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352101433" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Lava Red</a> ( for pupil)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352232505" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Cotton White</a> (for eyes)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351282233" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Charcaol Black</a> ( for noze) </li></ul>To discover which new models will be released next, follow @polymaker_figurines: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> Join the Figurines Community on <a target="_blank" href="https://discord.com/invite/r2ujMfEb7S" rel="nofollow noopener">Discord</a> Happy Printing!-----------------------------------------------Printer settings on the Bambu Lab X1C<ul><li>Rafts: No</li><li>Supports: Yes</li><li>Resolution: 0.2mm</li><li>Infill: 10%</li><li>Filament brand: Polymaker</li><li>Filament color: beige, orange, red, white and black</li><li>Filament material: <a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA</a></li></ul>

Ninetales Multicolor

double AMS

cBoLsmUiEc

This Darksaber is an accessory made for Big Bricks - The Mandalorian (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/374088#profileId-280373" rel="nofollow noopener">The Mandalorian - Big Brick Figure by BigBricks - MakerWorld</a>)Please have a look at his awesome models and join his community. Print: It is easy to print - you can print it without support and brim. Just use the profile above (0,16mm, PLA) Assembly: Just stick and glue both parts together.

Darksaber for BigBricks Madalorian * Dunkelschwert

Lego 

Shallot Studio

An extremely cool Nintendo Switch keychain ornament, customizable with your preferred colors for printing.非常炫酷的Nintendo switch钥匙扣挂饰，您可以按照自己的喜好设置自己喜欢的颜色进行打印。

Nintendo Switch Keychain 任天堂Switch钥匙扣挂饰

Nintendo 

BODY3D

If you like my work, support me by leaving a like !Get access to really cool models every months on my PatreonAnd don't Forget to Follow me !<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/BODY3D" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://dreamityourselfmusician.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/patreon-france.jpg" alt="BODY3D"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@body_3d" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSrfIHeAYT6KeLQTVHxvXORYsILY6oVXlNVmg&usqp=CAU" alt="BODY3D"></a> <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/users/BODY3D/3d-models" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/3079230113/draft/2023-08-21_6b0967a6c4cbc.png"></a> <a target="_blank" href="https://beacons.ai/body3d" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/3079230113/draft/2023-08-21_63b5664660755.png"></a>

Kirby - No supports

pokemone

GekoPrime

I tried another spool winder but found it finicky and delicate.I designed this winder from scratch to be simple and robust, using the same self reversing leadscrew mechanism found on industrial cable windersWhy pick this model:<ul><li>Prints on a single build plate</li><li>Doesn't require heat set inserts or exotic hardware</li><li>Fusion and STEP files are available, remixes welcomed</li><li>Generous clearances, simple mechanisms</li><li>Designed to be a tool, not a project</li></ul>Print time:<ul><li>~500 grams of filament</li><li>~22 hours on Bambu Lab X1</li><li>~5 minute assembly</li><li>~2 minute spool transfer</li></ul>Hardware requirements:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=608+bearings" rel="nofollow noopener">14x 608 skate bearings</a></li><li>A scrap of PTFE tubing</li><li>An electric screwdriver or drill with <a target="_blank" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-3-5-in-2-Philips-Bit-DWA3PH2MF/309474882" rel="nofollow noopener">a bit cut from ¼ inch hex stock</a> (most <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/ITP1201-SCRWDRVNG-2IN-1-IMPAC/dp/B01LZZ7AOS/" rel="nofollow noopener">cheap quick change Philips bits</a> in the US fit this requirement)</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>Any. I used "0.16mm Optimal" in BambuSlicer with 5% adaptive cubic infill </li><li>Use 100% concentric infill for spindle_male_driven</li><li>Try the STLs if you have a problem with the 3mf files. I’ve added (xN) to each file name so you know how many to print</li></ul>Materials:<ul><li>Any. I used Polyterra and iiidmax PLA+</li><li>Use TPU for tpu_consumable_wiper_blade. I used Priline 98a. The wiper blades aren’t 100% required but they help keep the windings nice and tight</li></ul>Assembly and usage:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/DxgkYDrRK-U" rel="nofollow noopener">Demo video</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/-Hy69YwRLBw" rel="nofollow noopener">Assembly video</a></li><li>The side that says “Pastamatic" needs to face outwards, away from the spool</li><li>The filament needs to come in under the target spool, like this: O____O<ul><li>[not like this: O‾”‾”‾”O]</li></ul></li><li>The drill/driver needs to run clockwise, as though you're screwing something in</li><li>Accelerate slowly until the winder gets started</li></ul>Change log<ul><li>2023-05-28<ul><li>Initial release</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-29<ul><li>Fix a minor export glitch in "leadscrew_tooth"</li><li>Increase the number of “pin_short” instances in the 3mf from 6x to 8x</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-30<ul><li>Add a second prearranged 3mf with two plates to avoid overlap warnings</li><li>Disable autogenerated brims for the single plate 3mf </li><li>Add STLs for people who have trouble with the 3mf</li></ul></li><li>2023-06-03<ul><li>Add a ring to passive_target_cradle to prevent the far end of the target spool lifting if a user lets the the drill hang loose</li><li>Add a pin to driven_target_cradle prevent the leadscrew popping out</li><li>Fix a minor clearance issue where a dovetail didn't fit quite right</li></ul></li><li>2023-09-30<ul><li>Reduce chamfer on the crossbars to prevent them falling over when bed adhesion is poor</li><li>Add some holes to the crossbars to make them easier to screw down</li><li>Add some popular acessories to the all-in-one .3mf</li><li>Add a printable spool to the all-in-one .3mf</li></ul></li></ul>How to contribute:<ul><li>Post your make, it keeps me motivated to improve the model when I see people using it!</li><li>Post your feedback, idea or remix in the comments!</li><li>There are a few improvements and accessories in development as remixes, check those out if you‘re up for the alpha/beta tester experience<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/498743-pastamatic-37-mm-motor-mount" rel="nofollow noopener">Adapter for 37mm gear motor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/556405-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-modifications-bra" rel="nofollow noopener">Source spool holder for 5 KG spools</a></li></ul></li></ul>Credits:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MiklosKiszely_486882" rel="nofollow noopener">@MiklosKiszely_486882</a> for the original idea</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@PsychoShaft_33891" rel="nofollow noopener">@Psycho Shaft</a> for the drag/tensioner concept</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/@thang010146" rel="nofollow noopener">thang010146</a> for YouTube videos of mechanical mechanisms, particularly the self reversing leadscrew for a level cable winder</li></ul>&nbsp;

Pastamatic  Filament Spool Winder for Bambu X1C/P1P AMS (level winder with self reversing leadscrew)

tool

EmBy Designs

Skateboarding &amp; gaming! Why not, eh? &nbsp;The deck curves are made by heating the plastic. Trucks are glued on.