ZeroEvidence

hi_im_sean

Wall mount cat suspension bridge, for use with regular 550lb/4-6mm paracord. &nbsp;You should not need supports for any piece, print as oriented. Print very thick walls, PLA suggested to avoid warp. &nbsp;I highly suggest you screw at least 1 of the 3 landing screws into a stud (using a #6x2&#34; drywall screw), preferably the 2 in line and use a good drywall anchor for the 3rd. 8-9 rungs will span 1 set of 16&#34; studs, and it takes 17-18 rungs to span 2, or roughly 32&#34;. You can adjust the rung spacers height in slicer to fine tune the span distance. Find a pair of studs, mark them and test fit the assembled bridge before you drill any holes in your wall, adjust spacers and rungs as necessary. &nbsp;The drop rods snap into the rungs, refer to pictures for rope path. The bridge as pictured took about 1kg of filament, and 10ft of 4mm paracord.&nbsp;The cat step is designed to mount onto 1 stud and I do not suggest you use them at all with regular drywall anchors, maybe toggles on 5/8&#34; drywall, its your call depending on your chonker.

Cat suspension bridge and steps, wall mount

Adam L

HexErect is a 3D printing project that lets you create your own hexagonal building blocks. You can choose between hollow or solid forms of the blocks, depending on your preference and printing capabilities. I printed each shape in a different color, making them easy to identify and combine. You can use these blocks to build various structures. See how high you can stack them without them collapsing a tower, or how many different shapes you can make with them. HexErect is a great way to stimulate your imagination and problem-solving skills, as well as have fun with your friends and family. HexErect is suitable for both adults and kids, as it offers different levels of difficulty and complexity. Provided as a set of 3MF, STEP, and Fusion360 files.&nbsp;These building blocks are not just random hexagons. They are actually based on the mathematical concept of tetrahexes, which are the set of all polyhexes with N=4. Polyhexes are polygons made of regular hexagons joined edge to edge. Tetrahexes are the ones that have four hexagons in them. There are exactly seven different 3D tetrahexes, and they are all non-superimposable, meaning you cannot rotate or flip them to make them look the same. This makes them more interesting and challenging than regular squares-based 3D Tetris shapes, which only have 5 non-superimposable shapes. By printing these tetrahexes instead of standard squares-based Tetris shapes in 3D, you can restore the original complexity of Tetris and have more fun with them. &nbsp;P.S. Yes, i'm aware that the name HexErect could be considered mildly dirty.. however 1) It's fun… lighten up :) 2) It's meant to evoke the idea of building, like with an erector set.

HexErect:   3D printed Hexagonal Building Blocks

Toys

This is yet-another-calibration tower, with several tests for overhang/bridge performance, but also other tiny features that I think represent common use cases in detailed 3D printing.One of the things the Bambu X1/X1C/P1P printers cannot do for you is calibrate fan speeds for different filaments auto-magically. Temperature and cooling, along with flow and pressure advance is important to do for good printing performance, particularly for overhangs & bridging performance, as well as stringing.This model tests curved, straight, and thin overhangs in different orientations and by repeatedly printing a model at different heights. I have pre-sliced Fan and Temperature 3MF files for you, but you can “Scan” any printing variable you wish at 10 mm intervals. This model tries the most challenging types of curved overhangs, up to 90%, as well as bridges (100% overhang). It also prints several tiny features to make sure you don't accidentally over-optimize for one area of performance at the cost of another. <h3>Which file should I use?</h3>Bambu/SoftFever Users : (other slicers see below)Note: These files assume you are using an X1C (machine I tested on). If you are using a X1 or P1P or other machine, you will need to copy/paste the custom before-layer-change code into a copy of your machine's profile and save a copy and then slice. See the temperature instructions below for where to find this.<ul><li>Temperature : 5xTempScan.3MF (This file does 5 different temps)</li><li>Fan Speed: 10xFanScan.3MF (This file scans 10 different speeds)</li></ul>If you use another slicer or want different sizes, STEP & STL files are included for 10x,5x,1x and separate base and repeating unit.<h3>Important Instructions:</h3>It is very important to make sure you're scanning the variable you think you are by checking in the slicer preview (temperature or fan speed view). Additionally, my files have a preset for Overture PETG by default setup. Make sure to change it to your filament of choice!<ul><li>For fan-scanning it is very important to change your filament cooling settings temporarily to not conflict with the machine “before-layer-change” overrides that have been setup for you in the 3MF files! Simply change your filament settings to specify no cooling for the first 1000 layers to prevent issues:<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/366923/rich_content/7c30eb2f-215d-40f5-a9b8-f33c1422ce7d/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22a0adba3d-26a2-4ef2-9c0c-58fe0fbb40e9%22%2C%22w%22%3A483%2C%22h%22%3A192%7D"></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>For temperature scanning you will need to go into the machine GCODE settings and set the temperatures you want to scan. Click here to open the dialog, and then find the Before Layer Change G-Code dialog and modify the temperatures you want to scan, along with your starting temperature (see other-slicer instructions):</li></ul><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/366923/rich_content/96879c10-0de8-4dfb-b9a0-68be29a72d75/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22bda48a94-9eb2-45df-84a7-5aaaa48435ec%22%2C%22w%22%3A536%2C%22h%22%3A124%7D">Then change the yellow highlighted values:<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/366923/rich_content/d9a1de9c-6617-4bd0-8b23-46a41434b880/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%224ab758ee-a8fc-45a6-a2b2-33d527c7fb2d%22%2C%22w%22%3A744%2C%22h%22%3A288%7D">&nbsp;PrusaSlicer / SuperSlicer / Other Users:<ul><li>I've provided the STL & STEP files for you folks. You'll need to configure your slicer to scan the variable you want by adding the appropriate “Before Layer Change G-Code” in your slicer. Here's copy-paste templates for 5x Temperature and 10x Fan towers: </li></ul>Example Temperature code:<code>{if layer_z<2.0}M104 S285 ; Temp Tower starting temp</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=12.0} M104 S285 ; Temp Tower Temp #1</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=22.0} M104 S280 ; Temp Tower Temp #2</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=32.0} M104 S275 ; Temp Tower Temp #3</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=42.0} M104 S270 ; Temp Tower Temp #4</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=52.0} M104 S265 ; Temp Tower Temp #5</code> <code>{endif}</code>Example Fan Code:<code>{if layer_z<2.0}M106 S0 ; FanTest floor 1 (no fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=12.0} M106 S26 ; FanTest floor 2 (10% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=22.0} M106 S51 ; FanTest floor 3 (20% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=32.0} M106 S77 ; FanTest floor 4 (30% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=42.0} M106 S102 ; FanTest floor 5 (40% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=52.0} M106 S128 ; FanTest floor 6 (50% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=62.0} M106 S153 ; FanTest floor 7 (60% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=72.0} M106 S179 ; FanTest floor 8 (70% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=82.0} M106 S204 ; FanTest floor 9 (80% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=92.0} M106 S230 ; FanTest floor 10 (90% fan)</code> <code>{elsif layer_z<=102.0} M106 S255 ; FanTest floor 11 (100% fan)</code> <code>{endif}</code>&nbsp;Other Printing Details<ul><li>Filament Print Temperature: Any filament will work for temperature scanning. I recommend using default fan settings for that filament type when scanning temperatures to get a good guess at which temperature is ideal.</li><li>Filament Fan Speeds: This test variant is particularly useful on filaments that need to balance strength or warping with detail and quality. Typical examples include PETG, Nylon, ABS, etc. </li><li>Layer height: Typically 0.20 or 0.16 mm. The 3MF files provided are the faster 0.2 mm prints, but are easily changed by adjusting the layer height in the slicer. 0.2 mm is also more challenging and may help accentuate temp/cooling differences. However, you should use whatever layer height you use the most frequently.</li><li>Nozzle size: This test assumes you are using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, but in theory can work with any nozzle with some adjustments.</li></ul>Why did I make it this way ?I adapted this model from the thingiverse model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2003594/files" rel="nofollow">here </a>, but made several modifications to really push the printer hard to accentuate differences between different settings. These included adding several new features and adjusting the overhangs to be longer and more aggressive in various different ways.Which printers does this work with ?Any printer! However, the 3MF files contain BambuSlicer settings to make people's lives easier who use that slicer. This was sliced with<a href="https://github.com/SoftFever/BambuStudio-SoftFever" rel="nofollow"> SoftFever's fork </a>(v1.4.2) of the official BambuSlicer, but it is also drop-in compatible with the official slicer. Works fine also with PrusaSlicer, but you'll need to do your own “before layer change” setups for fan/temperature.

Scan Tower : Calibrate a Filament's Fan & Temperature Settings (Bambu X1/X1C/P1P or any printer)

Calibration

These bookends are based on generative design, which lets you make unique organic shapes optimized for strength and mass. I made this symmetrical for aesthetic reasons, and I think it looks rather pretty. It has also been designed not to exceed 60 degrees overhang to avoid any print issues, so should print without any support.Provided in 3MF (mesh) + STEP file formats.&nbsp;White PETG model here shown scaled to 66%, which I think is the minimum viable size and might be a little too small for some people. Recommend printing at 80-100% size.Note: Here, I modeled the a load of 20 N on the tip of the bookend to simulate ~4 lb of weight (if it were actually held vertically instead of at an angle). The resulting design has a safety factor of at least 15x if solid ABS, which should translate to plenty of strength even when printed in common plastics.

Generative Design Bookends: Organic Looking bookends with Science!

Generative design

See also: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/109314#profileId-116785" rel="nofollow noopener">small </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/121577" rel="nofollow noopener">medium </a>size options.&nbsp;The parent design is good, but I wondered, could I use about the same amount of material, but make it stronger/better? The answer, thanks to Fusion360's generative design inspiration and stress analysis is yes!I hope this improved design helps people hold just a little more weight with the same amount of plastic! Provided in 3MF & STEP formats to make people's lives easier.Recommend printing in 4+ perimeters in PETG, ABS/ASA or PC. PLA might be a problem because while it is stiff and strong, it has an undesirable tendency to creep over time.&nbsp;DetailsThe change here is very simple, although a little counter-intuitive. By reversing one of the support struts, the total static load bearing capacity of the hook can be significantly improved, as shown by simulation. I got the idea to do this redesign the strut this way from looking at some generative design ideas Fusion360 generated when I looked at the best way to support weight on this hook design and it kept showing me the reverse strut direction under the hook curve, like this:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:40.44%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/348552/2023-09-22_6ymy2sfnyk14.png"></figure>After I modeled both of them, the strain analysis shows the improvement to be significant for essentially the same amount of filament used (more or less, designs are not exactly equal).Simulation of an 85 N load at 10 degrees (~19 lb of weight on a 100% solid simulated part) shows ~½ as much displacement in this new design versus the old design, demonstrating the superior stiffness and load bearing capacity. The relative safety factor is also increased from ~7.8 to 9.2 at this load. Comparative pictures below. Note that displacement is exaggerated here to visualize.Old vs new:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/348552/2023-09-22_woulhweoug1y.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/348552/2023-09-22_qh7pqgqrwpkw.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Strong(er) cable wall hook: Remastered based on generative design

wall hooks

Bookends

SOME Studio

I remixed the standard Multiboard (<a target="_blank" href="https://multiboard.io/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://multiboard.io/</a>) Multigrid bins to not need anything except a vertically mounted basic Multiboard tile. The bins mount using the pegboard holes so they can be removed easily as well. After printing cut away the built in supports.&nbsp;The sizes are<ul><li>0.25U = 15.5 mm</li><li>0.5U = 26.4 mm</li><li>1U = 48 mm</li><li>1.5U = 69.7 mm</li><li>2U = 91.3 mm</li><li>2.5U = 113 mm</li><li>3U = 135 mm</li></ul>Post-Process: <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/447764/2024-01-22_f82834c9b8803.png"></figure>