xxstu156

michelem

<figure class="image"></figure>UPDATE 05 Feb 2024:<ul><li>added 14.5mm LED size with base of 17.5mm</li></ul>UPDATE 02 Feb 2024:<ul><li>added 10mm LED size with base of 13.2mm</li></ul>UPDATE 13 Nov 2023:<ul><li>added 90° and 180° curved corners</li><li>added 8mm LED size with base of 11.8mm</li></ul>&nbsp;Hello makers,I created this model for a personal project and thought it would be helpful to share it with the community. It&#39;s a support for LED strips that could prove useful to anyone in need.&nbsp;The original project consists of a simple solid wood shelf with a square housing designed to accommodate an LED strip.&nbsp;I began with the basics: a base with an integrated guide for the LED strip. This guide allows you to secure the strip without the need for adhesives; simply slide it into the guide to keep it stable and in place.&nbsp;To attach the support to the wall or any surface (as I did in my case), you can choose between using adhesives or small screws to fit into the designated slots in the base.&nbsp;Screws must have this shape with 6mm head:&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000059751/design/2023-11-08_d66bf9bcae9ce.jpeg"></figure></td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000059751/design/2023-11-08_bf7762b4a9d2f.jpeg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;Additionally, the base is designed with openings to reduce filament usage and provide better ventilation for the LED strip.&nbsp;I also created a diffuser with guides for easy attachment to the base.&nbsp;Finally, I included two end caps: one with a hole to pass cables to an external controller and one to completely close the opposite end.&nbsp;Printing:&nbsp;There are no specific requirements for printing the base. If your LED strip tends to overheat, I strongly recommend using a high-strength filament like ABS, ASA, or PETG. However, PLA will work well in most cases. No support is required.&nbsp;Regarding the diffusers, I recommend printing them in white (avoid transparent materials as the LEDs will be visible otherwise).&nbsp;Since they are printed with the bottom side being visible, it might be a good idea to use a textured print bed to achieve a better finish (check pictures). However, the most important aspect is to ensure that the side in contact with the print bed is perfect, without any roughness or adhesive residues.&nbsp;Formats:&nbsp;If needed, I may release the source file to make it fully parametric. For now, you can choose between two common formats:<ul><li>LED strip approximately 9 mm wide</li><li>LED strip approximately 12 mm wide</li><li>LED strip (COB) approximately 8 mm wide</li></ul>9 and 12 formats fit a 15.8 mm wide base while the 8mm has a 12mm one.&nbsp;I included also different lengths to be printed in almost any printer (150mm and 250mm), if you need intermediate length just cut it.&nbsp;Remember to get the same led size for each component, a diffuser for 9mm strip doesn&#39;t fit in the 12mm base.&nbsp;If you need different sizes, feel free to ask!&nbsp;I hope this model proves useful for your projects. Happy printing!

LED Strip Holder - Diffuser - Accessories

nikolay79

Just a remix of the original Bambu Lab Lithophane frame without the logo. Same size and function as original.&nbsp;https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/CMYK-color-lithophane-printing-instructions

Bambu Lab Litho Frame without logo

lithophane

Illusion

ABDELat

Fast and easy to print Gridfinity Base for <a target="_blank" href="https://www.ikea.com/at/en/p/alex-drawer-unit-white-00473546/" rel="nofollow noopener">Ikea Alex Drawer (36x70 cm)</a>. The printfile contains 5 plates with all necessary parts for 1 drawer.If your looking for bins, I&#39;ve an <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/47599" rel="nofollow noopener">ultimate collection</a> for that.<ul><li>Plate 1<ul><li>Grid 4x5</li><li>23x Connector (22 needed + 1 spare) optional</li></ul></li><li>Plate 2<ul><li>Grid 4x5</li></ul></li><li>Plate 3<ul><li>Grid 3x5</li><li>Grid 2x4</li></ul></li><li>Plate 4<ul><li>Grid 3x5</li><li>Grid 2x3</li></ul></li><li>Plate 5<ul><li>Spacer</li></ul></li></ul>PLA printtime: ~3:55h and 116,9g material (single color)PETG printtime: ~4:25h and 115,0g material (single color)&nbsp;I recommend to put the 2 small grids and the spacer in the back of the drawer.The grid can be printed in PLA or PETG. I recommend 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height.&nbsp;Additional Tools and Helpers<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/models/208796" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Height ruler - slim Edition</a>: Helps you to find the correct bin height.</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/476336" rel="nofollow noopener">AIO parametric Gridfinty Project</a>: Generate you own gridfinity bin.</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28581" rel="nofollow noopener">Slim Gridfinity Base for Ikea Alex:</a> Perfectly fitting grid for Ikea Alex Drawer</li></ul>&nbsp;Source: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/430144-gridfinity-base-with-snap-connectors" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Base</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/535032-gridfinity-ikea-alex-spacer-with-snap-connectors" rel="nofollow noopener">Spacer</a>&nbsp;<h4>A1 mini Edition:</h4>I&#39;ve included a profile for all A1 mini user out there. Basically you&#39;ll need three 4x4-Grids and three 3x4-Grids. The Spacer is cut in half, so it fits the print plate. You don&#39;t need to glue them together. Just use some connectors. The connectors are optional. You just need them if you don&#39;t fill the drawer space all with bins.<h3>Share your makes and support me</h3>If you like my work, give it a 🚀 boost 🚀 (the button is right below the Download). You can <a target="_blank" href="https://brickbank.app/support/" rel="nofollow noopener">support me here</a>, via <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/brickbankapp" rel="nofollow noopener">Ko-Fi</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/brickbankAPP" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>. Please leave a comment or share your makes 😁.  I appreciate your support! If your interested in selling the printed models DM me.

Slim Gridfinity Base for Ikea Alex Drawer

Gridfinity

MoarInfill

Hex wrench stand for metric wrenches

Hex Wrench Stand - Metric

tools

uni3Dworld

High density model of Crystal Articulated snake 114 cm longFormat STL and OBJCreated in BlenderPrint in place3 Perimeters15 % infillNO support

Crystal articulated snake 114 cm long

fexi

AU3D

<h3>Key Advantages</h3><ul><li>Only 7g of filament per ring.</li><li>Compatible spool brand name impressed.</li><li>Rounded contour helps with traction, avoids pullback errors and stabilizes the spool inside the AMS.</li><li>Rounded contour lowers the chance of damaging plastic storage bags.</li></ul><h3>Description</h3>This isn&#39;t merely a typical cardboard spool adapter. By decreasing its contact area by approximately 50-60% compared to standard adapters, it significantly enhances contact pressure. Consider it akin to winter tires on a car, which generally require higher pressure to minimize their contact area with the ground. Additionally, its rounded edges help stablizing the Spool inside the AMS and minimize the likelihood of damaging plastic vacuum bags. The adapter is not only lightweight, weighing a mere 7 grams of filament, but it is also reusable and easily attaches in the same manner as conventional adapters.&nbsp;This adapter has proven to be a game-changer, eliminating the need for other AMS modifications that claim to address retraction and entanglement issues. Remarkably, I’ve found that spool weights are no longer necessary. However, as with any solution, individual results may vary. Happy printing!<h3>Tolerances</h3>Compared to plastic spools, cardboard spools are more vulnerable to various external factors, such as moisture, temperature fluctuations, and variations in the production process. Consequently, you may encounter slight variations in the fit, which can range from slightly looser to tighter. In extreme cases, the spool adapter may not fit at all. In these scenarios, you can make the necessary adjustments to the model&#39;s scale using the Bambu Slicer for both the X and Y axes. Ensure that you uncheck the &#34;uniform scale&#34; option before proceeding. If your spool&#39;s diameter exceeds the default setting, consider increasing the scale by 1%. Conversely, if your spool&#39;s diameter is smaller, reduce the scale by 1%, and your setup should be ready for use.<h3>Printing</h3>When it comes to printing, you should produce two adapters for each cardboard spool. It is advisable to steer clear of materials that exhibit low friction, such as Silk-PLA, to ensure optimal performance. Most of the time I use Standard PLA.<h3>Other Filament Brands</h3>This adapter is available for other brand&#39;s cardboard spools (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@AU3D/collections/565167" rel="nofollow noopener">Link to Collection</a>):<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/251717" rel="nofollow noopener">3DGenius</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/233956" rel="nofollow noopener">3DHojor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/197741" rel="nofollow noopener">Aceaddity</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/197938" rel="nofollow noopener">ANYCUBIC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/197839" rel="nofollow noopener">ATA</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/377775" rel="nofollow noopener">Bblife</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/254552" rel="nofollow noopener">Colorful</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/192941" rel="nofollow noopener">Comgrow</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/492894" rel="nofollow noopener">Copymaster 3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/192757" rel="nofollow noopener">Creality</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/253694" rel="nofollow noopener">CUIEED</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/251342" rel="nofollow noopener">Dikale</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/376740" rel="nofollow noopener">DO3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/237701" rel="nofollow noopener">Duramic 3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/180213" rel="nofollow noopener">Elegoo</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/194714" rel="nofollow noopener">ENISINA</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/456459" rel="nofollow noopener">Eono</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/175447" rel="nofollow noopener">Eryone</a> / <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/372282" rel="nofollow noopener">Eryone 2024+</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/180253" rel="nofollow noopener">eSun</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/246501" rel="nofollow noopener">Filafarm</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/377992" rel="nofollow noopener">Firos</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/376304" rel="nofollow noopener">Flashforge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/196175" rel="nofollow noopener">FormFutura</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/505839" rel="nofollow noopener">Gembird</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/375168" rel="nofollow noopener">GNVTNTP</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/192804" rel="nofollow noopener">GratKit</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/246162" rel="nofollow noopener">Grauts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/253905" rel="nofollow noopener">Inland</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/254313" rel="nofollow noopener">IWEColor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/192773" rel="nofollow noopener">JAMG HE Conjure</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/175622" rel="nofollow noopener">Jayo</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/176924" rel="nofollow noopener">Kexcelled</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/489368" rel="nofollow noopener">Kingroon</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/375526" rel="nofollow noopener">Kinluot</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/249610" rel="nofollow noopener">Kretrum</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/252594" rel="nofollow noopener">Lovoon</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/376013" rel="nofollow noopener">Mchyi</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/245976" rel="nofollow noopener">Meltbro</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/253497" rel="nofollow noopener">MKOEM</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/194179" rel="nofollow noopener">Ninetec</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/245837" rel="nofollow noopener">OEM Mika3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/175704" rel="nofollow noopener">Overture</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/237378" rel="nofollow noopener">OVV3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/177047" rel="nofollow noopener">Polymaker</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/254827" rel="nofollow noopener">Protopasta</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/239790" rel="nofollow noopener">R3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/238604" rel="nofollow noopener">Raise3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/206466" rel="nofollow noopener">Redline Filament</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/234098" rel="nofollow noopener">Reprapper</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/492951" rel="nofollow noopener">Prima Creator</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/193658" rel="nofollow noopener">Prindano</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/196488" rel="nofollow noopener">SainSmart</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/194367" rel="nofollow noopener">Sovol</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/242422" rel="nofollow noopener">Spectrum</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/235861" rel="nofollow noopener">Sunlu Elite Series</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/194269" rel="nofollow noopener">Tinmorry</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/206360" rel="nofollow noopener">Tronxy</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/238095" rel="nofollow noopener">TTYT3D</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/194520" rel="nofollow noopener">Two Trees</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/236118" rel="nofollow noopener">Yousu</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/234380" rel="nofollow noopener">YOYI YOYI</a></li></ul>

JAYO Cardboard Spool Adapter

spool

FilliFuu

Cutie Cloud Jumper Dragon Flexi-Fit (Special Articulated) Model With Multiple Choice Of Wing Designs&nbsp;Based on the dragon cloud jumper from the movie ‘how to train your dragon 2’ - Built with articulated links using my self designed ‘flexi-fit’ chain. The flexi-fit design is an evolving experiment seen in previous models I have released and now been improved upon. It allows a standard articulated design to snap together to remain rigid for posing and support or simply for your own amusement.Improvements include -&nbsp;-Better and easier bridging.-Changed location of socket to allow greater pivoting-Slightly increased join size, tighter fit (can be eased with multiple uses)-Larger and extra walls for strength&nbsp;Still in early development, with your feedback I hope to improve even further for an awesome articulated design that is commonly enjoyed.&nbsp;Note *My First time printing with Bambulab exclusive filamentPrinted with the beautiful PLA Arctic Whisper, PLA Onyx Black Sparkle & PLA Basic Yellow & Red Thank you so much Bambulab for creating this fantastic and beautifully optimized filament.&nbsp;Model contents&nbsp;-Painted and unpainted variations/ miniature scale for A1 mini-Cloud Jumper base model and basic mini wings (for those who wish to use without large wings but choose to fill the wing sockets)-Solid wings, folded and spread, the cover photograph contains one of each, but your free to choose 4 folded or 4 spread if that's what you wish-Flexi wings, purely for fun based upon the ‘NASA fabric’ designs you may have seen by multiple other designers-All STL files associated&nbsp;-Additional profile for the solid wings, to anyone who may encounter issues printing the larger wing. I included this file which lays the wings as flat as possible to the bed, the rear of the wings quality will be likely be impacted and require cleaning, but have zero danger of the print collapsing, print only if you have issues with your tool-head knocking your prints.&nbsp;How to & Assembly&nbsp;Simply print the base model and your choice of wings, selecting whichever printer you are using.&nbsp;Once printed simply insert the wings into the correct sockets being careful not to damage your model, you may wish to lightly trim or sand the ball socket on the wing if required (see pictures & troubleshoot section below) and your done.&nbsp;To use the flexi-fit joins, pull the ball into the clip on each link, can be stiff at first but loosens up each time you use this function.&nbsp;Print is calibrated towards PLA basic. Tested successfully in silk at 120% (CC3C Silk no issues), I am unsure how strong the link will be when printed with silk but its generally not recommended for articulating models.&nbsp;Print Settings&nbsp;Printed multiple times in different sizes & filamentsFor those not using the 3.mf files here is what is recommended…Standard 0.42 wall/ 0.3 used on the outer wall for the main body to increase detail.No brim or support needed on the main file & flexi wings.brim and supports used on the spread wing, the folded wing recommended brim for better corner adhesion4 wall for strength25% gyroid infillz hop 0.4 on the solid wingsWall slowed to 120 however this is entirely up to you depending on what your comfortable printing&nbsp;Troubleshooting&nbsp;-Common problems I often hear can often be easily solved but simply cleaning your 3D print bed so if you have adhesion issues make sure to scrub your plate thoroughly using warm water and soap, rinse with hot water and air dry vertically. IPA is often recommended by most but I personally find standard dishwasher soap to be fine.&nbsp;-Other adhesion issues can be fixed using a brim, but is not recommended unless urgently required or specified in the print settings above.&nbsp;-Tool-head knocks print, I have added an easier print profile with is to be avoided unless required, this profile is labelled 'SAFE' use only if other methods fail. Other reasons for the tool-head knocking the print can be, z-hop required in your slicer settings (turned on by default in my uploaded profiles) Your printer belts may require tightening, carbon rods require cleaning and bearings require lubrication. Calibrate your filament and increases fan speed on your tool-head. If these all fail please use the profile listed earlier.&nbsp;-Ball sockets are too tight to insert, common but the sockets require a tight fit to remain rigid once inserted - its completely fine to lightly sand or even use clippers to slightly trip the ball to allow you to easily insert the socket while remain stable. This may be required depending on which filament you choose to print with.&nbsp;Any other issues please ask and I will help as best as I can, thank you.&nbsp;FIN&nbsp;

Flexi-Fit Cloud Jumper Dragon

dragons

taylormadearmy

Here&#39;s another in my series of “Flippy Flappy Fidget toys”!&nbsp;This one is based on pyramids!&nbsp;This is super satisfying to play with and super easy to print.&nbsp;There are 3 alternative shapes - the S, the 8 and the triangle - they are all satisfying in their own way - let us know in the comments which is your favourite!&nbsp;Make sure to use the attached profile so the hinges last. (Or print the first 2 layers at 0.1mm).&nbsp;<h2>Oh - and this looks amazing printed in tri-colour filament if you have any! Try some of my other popular easy to print fun fidget toys</h2><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/500794#profileId-415835" rel="nofollow noopener">New! Fidget Ring Spinner Planetary Gear</a> - a really easy yet satisfying print and fidget toy!</li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 348.672px" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487776/design/2024-06-19_4f91ce3cc8295.jpg"><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/487776#profileId-400600" rel="nofollow noopener">New! Flippy Flappy Pyramids</a></li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 357.109px" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487776/design/2024-06-07_aca38902ac3f.jpg"><ul><li> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/484833#profileId-397248" rel="nofollow noopener">Infinite Flippy Flapper Fidget Toy Version 2</a></li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 358.328px" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487776/design/2024-06-13_30730804bb22c.gif"><ul><li>If you want to try another interesting fidget toy with live hinges - you will like my new <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/441560#profileId-347321" rel="nofollow noopener">Squishy TPU infinite cube</a> </li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 369.047px" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487776/design/2024-06-07_559fe1e056db1.gif"><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/445631#profileId-352092" rel="nofollow noopener">Extra long Flippy flappy fidget Toy</a></li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000487776/design/2024-06-07_47d775bd409ce.gif">

Infinite Flippy Flappy Pyramids Fidget Toy

fidget

Elegant Marble Machines

<h2>Summary</h2>Introducing Apex—an entrancing 3D printed marble machine. Watch the marbles carefully as the spiral lifts them up, and they weave down a plinko board, stairs, and various other tracks.&nbsp;The machine uses 8mm or 5/16&#34; marbles (the distinction is negligible), but can be scaled up proportionally to use larger marbles.Video: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76Xtjbtv-K8" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76Xtjbtv-K8</a>&nbsp;If you like marble machines, check out some of my other work! <a target="_blank" href="https://elegantmachines.etsy.com" rel="nofollow noopener">https://elegantmachines.etsy.com</a>&nbsp;Dimensions: -Length: 6.75&#34; (170mm) -Width: 5.75&#34; (150mm) -Height: 5.5&#34; (140mm)&nbsp;*Please ensure ball bearings are out of reach for children under 5, as they present a potential choking hazard. <h2>Print settings</h2>No supports are required for any of the four main files (everything except the crank). A layer height of around 0.16mm (or 0.2mm) is recommended, at least for the main machine. A printer bed size of at least 170mm x 170mm X 140mm is needed. The crank is another, optional, way to spin the marble machine, and does require supports to print.<h2>The story</h2>I designed this machine over the summer of 2023. Surprisingly, the failure rate (number of marbles that fell out or jammed / number of marbles cycled) was only 0.4% for the first version of the design--not bad! I raised a few walls, added a few supports, and made the track steeper in a few places; the second iteration had a much better failure rate of 0.06%. Still, that wasn&#39;t up to my standards (below 0.02%). Fortunately, the third version did meet standards; it had no failures after cycling 20,000 marbles. Still, I didn&#39;t stop there. Since then, I&#39;ve optimized the design further, cutting out unnecessary supports, reducing filament usage, and reinforcing various sections. As of December 2023, I&#39;m on the eighth version of this design, and I still have ideas for micro-optimizing it.<h2> </h2>

Apex - Marble Machine

Marble Machine

JustBe 3D Printing

If you have a request, want FREE *Patreon exclusive* models(like the ones below), or if you are interested in members only models and commercial licenses to sell your physical prints visit my Patreon in bio <a target="_blank" href="http://patreon.com/JustBe3D" rel="nofollow noopener">http://patreon.com/JustBe3D</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/JustBe3D" rel="nofollow noopener"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 19.39%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000463597/design/2024-06-05_5bd3a4cfbd498.jpg"></a>Instructions Can be rescaled just remember not to change the Z axis.Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA Kingroon Black Transmission Distance: 0.4 PLA Overture Space Gray Transmission Distance: 1.4 PLA Overture White Transmission Distance: 4 PLA Overture Blue Transmission Distance: 1.2Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to Space Gray At layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to White At layer #21 (1.76mm) swap to Blue At layer #26 (2.16mm) swap to White for the rest.

R2-D2

star wars

kirstytaylorgc

This shoe rack is designed to fit together in pieces, allowing you to build up the stairs to make use of a space that&#39;s usually wasted. You can add as many pieces as you want and make it go up as many stairs as you like. In theory, you could have this cover a whole staircase. You could also fit pieces together so it goes on a flat surface rather than stairs.&nbsp;It has been designed to fit the stairs in my house, which I assume is a standard stair case, however I have added instructions at the end to modify the size if you need to. You may wish to print one section and decide if its the correct size for you before you go all out.&nbsp;For one module, you will need to print a base and the two back pillars and two front pillars, and another base to go on top. The top will then become the base for the next module.All files are individually saved, but the file called “shoe rack” has one plate with a base and one plate with two sets of front and back pillars, to make use of most of the plate. Just continually print the pieces you need individually.&nbsp;The bases slot together using puzzle-like pieces. When you print the base, it requires support as the sticky out puzzle bit needs to be 1mm off of the plate to allow for the pieces to slot together properly and hold their shape when on the stairs. This means that when you&#39;ve printed it, you will need to use a knife to remove the layer of support from under the puzzle bits only. It doesn&#39;t look like much, but it will stop everything fitting together properly if you don&#39;t remove these 2 pieces.&nbsp;The pillars also require support to make sure the little connections print properly and fit together properly. Make sure you remove all support material before assembly for it to fit flush. I&#39;ve use tree supports and the come off easily with a pair of pliers.&nbsp;Infill is set quite high at 20% to ensure that it is strong enough to hold the weight of the shoes once assembled. Feel free to bring this down if you only plan to store lightweight children&#39;s shoes.&nbsp;My shoes are a size UK8 (EU42) and they stick out. It was designed this way as to not take over too much of the staircase. If your shoes are much bigger, you could consider increasing the depth of the shoe rack, or just place it an inch or two from the wall so the shoes can hang out of both sides of the shoe rack.You can see in the picture that shoes will most likely have to overlap each other, but this is due to the depth of each stair, there&#39;s not much I can do about that.&nbsp;Instructions for scaling&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000462666/design/2024-05-13_45dc355baec51.png" alt="A diagram of stairs with textDescription automatically generated">&nbsp;The shoe rack as I have designed it:<ul><li>The Going of my staircase is 215mm</li><li>The Rise of my staircase is 205mm</li></ul>&nbsp;Increasing the RiseTo increase or decrease the Rise to fit your own staircase, you will need to increase the length of the back and front supports. They are currently 205mm tall not including the connections, 209mm including the bottom connections and the base plate that they fit into. To calculate the scale for an increase/decrease you will need to measure the Rise of your stairs, in millimetres, call this number R.Take your R number and divide it by 205. This is your scale. Multiply the length of the back and front pieces by this number to make them longer or shorter as required.The increase/decrease in the length of the connections should be negligible, so you shouldn’t need to increase the base at all to deal with this. Don’t increase the whole thing by the scale (i.e. not a uniform scale increase/decrease), just the length, or the connecting pieces will become too wide and won’t fit in the holes.&nbsp;Increasing the GoingIf you need to increase the Going to fit the depth of your staircase, firstly measure your Going in millimetres. Call this number G.Take your G number and divide it by 215. This is your scale. Multiply the width of the base plate by this scale, which is the distance from the edges that look like puzzle pieces. You will also need to multiply the width of the back and front pieces to make them a little chunkier so that the connectors still fit in the holes.&nbsp;Examples:A staircase has Rise of 220mm and a Going of 210mm.R = 220R ÷ 205 = 1.073Multiply the length of the back and front pieces by 1.073&nbsp;G = 210G ÷ 215 = 0.977Multiply the width of the base plate by 0.977, as well as the width of the front and back pieces by 0.977

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