#PrintClinicI designed this Lanyard Pen for exhibitions and public events, so I needed to print a whole batch at once. During my initial tests with a single pen, the surface was incredibly clean and smooth. However, when I cloned it to print multiple pieces, an ugly artifact appeared on the upper section of the logo tag on every single pen, as shown in the image below. Whether I printed two or ten, the issue persisted as long as there was more than one pen on the build plate. I tweaked numerous settings and tested the print on different machines, including the H2D, P2S, and P1P, but nothing worked. That was until I found a solution.While reviewing the different color schemes in Bambu Studio, I noticed that the biggest difference between printing one pen versus multiple pens was the print speed. The single-layer print speed for one pen was significantly slower than for multiple pens, as shown in the two images below. This made me realize the issue must be cooling-related: when printing multiple pieces, the nozzle moves too fast and spends too little time on each layer, leaving the cooling fan insufficient time to cool each layer properly. Since cooling-related settings are typically modified within the filament profile (which is saved locally to the user's device), the best way to embed this fix directly into the print profile was to adjust the model's process settings instead. I added a modifier (Cylinder) to the problem area of each pen and lowered the print speed within that modifier to the values shown in the image(The cylinder modifier above is used to add a fuzzy skin to the model). After slicing, the print speed in that specific zone matched the speed of a single-pen print. Then, I ran a test.The results were perfect! The issue was completely resolved. What’s even better is that when printing three pens, using the modifier only added 9 minutes to the total print time—a negligible impact. Finally, I can mass-produce this pen! If you run into a similar issue, give this method a try!

Hi guys! Recently, I uploaded a series of “Clicker” models, and I am thrilled to see so many people downloading and giving them high ratings. Thank you all so much for your incredible support! Today, I wanted to share an article explaining how I designed the Mushroom Clicker.The Spark of an IdeaI actually got the idea while designing my “Retractable Ballpoint Pen - G2 Refill.” I realized that a 3D-printed retractable mechanism could serve as the core functional part of a clicker toy. This is quite different from most common clicker toys on the market, which typically rely on mechanical keyboard switches. Intrigued by the concept, I set out to design something unique.Why a Mushroom?Mushrooms have always been a favorite design theme of mine—as you might have noticed from my previous models, like the Mushroom Lamp, Mushroom House Lamp, Mushroom Bottle, Cozy Christmas Mushroom House Lamp, Mushroom Jar, and Mushroom Lamp A&B for LED 001 Kit, etc. Naturally, I decided to tackle a mushroom clicker first.Designing for "No Supports" (Exterior)A mushroom’s cap usually features a rounded edge. However, to avoid the need for print supports, I chose not to make the cross-section perfectly round. Instead, I designed it with a specific sloping angle right from the start, as shown in the image below.While the shape on the right can be successfully printed without supports, it often yields poor results in the first few layers, if your printer's cooling isn't powerful enough. Because of this, sticking to the geometry on the left is always my preferred choice.Optimizing the Interior GeometryI applied this same "no support" philosophy to the inside of the mushroom cap. As you can see in the image below, the internal shape uses a series of flat, sloping lines rather than a direct offset of the curved outer surface. This gradual, angular transition allows the printer to span the curved ceiling cleanly without any drooping or support material.Remarkably, even though the slope angle at the very top drops to just 18 degrees, it prints flawlessly. Keep in mind that the ideal angle for support-free printing isn't a fixed number. It depends heavily on your printer's capabilities, your specific filament, and your cooling settings. The key is to keep testing and modifying your design until it works perfectly.Solving the Assembly ChallengeConnecting the mushroom cap, gills, and stem presented a unique challenge. Initially, I planned to use a threaded structure to screw all the parts together. However, I quickly realized that because people actively fidget with clicker toys, a threaded connection would easily unscrew and come apart during use.To fix this, I modified the connection structure to a snap-fit design, as you can see in the image below. Additionally, because the snap-fit slot is hidden inside the cap and cannot be seen during assembly, I added a guide bar to the gills section. This bar not only helps align the parts perfectly but also doubles as a structural stiffener.Customized Installation ToolsTo make assembling the snap-fit parts easier, I designed a specialized installation tool. The zigzag shape on the outer ring of this tool perfectly matches the zigzag shape on the mushroom stem. This ensures that if you use a hammer to knock the stem into position, the impact won't damage the zigzag shape. I have tested this assembly method nearly a hundred times, and not a single component has been damaged by a hammer strike. This is the story behind the design of the Mushroom Clicker! If you would like to read more of my design stories and behind-the-scenes insights, please let me know in the comments. Check out my other articles here:How I Made the Assembly GuideHow I Designed the CyberBrick 4WD CarHow to design screw hole for a CyberBrick Project How to design a Wind-Up model with a model tool

Congratulations to all the winning Creators!I also want to thank every creator who participated in the competition I hosted.Aside from the winners, there were so many other creative and outstanding entries. Since the number of awards is limited, I unfortunately couldn't recognize every single deserving piece. Many authors submitted multiple entries, which is something I took into consideration during the judging process. Now, let’s take a look at these fantastic winning works!  The Best Design AwardCyberBrick 4X4 Unmanned Wheeled Excavatorby 瘋子般の小白"This model perfectly integrates the chassis of my CyberBrick 4x4 Off-Roader with a brilliantly engineered remote-controlled excavation mechanism. The model instruction page is equally exquisite and detailed. It is truly an unparalleled masterpiece that well deserves the 'The Best Design Award'!" — @wuguigui The Best Creative AwardMini Cargo Van RC body-based on wuguiguiby KunLing"The creator submitted two entries that are both highly creative and expressive. Their ingenious concepts have significantly expanded the versatility of my CyberBrick 4WD Car chassis. Beyond the exquisite presentation and assembly manuals, the model photography stands out as the best among all entries. Truly deserving of the 'Most Creative Award'!" — @wuguigui @wuguigui's Pick Award4x4 Explorer Kit for Mini Off-Roaderby occultfullelo"A tasteful modification of my CyberBrick 4X4 Off-Roader, this model adds a winch, lighting, and polished detailing to achieve a pro off-road aesthetic. The high-quality images, videos, and clear attention to detail are exceptional. This level of attitude truly impressed me." — @wuguigui Body Shell Spotlight AwardCyberBrick 4WD Armoured Car armored car model no AMS for A1 miniby 会打酱油的酱油"This model makes excellent use of the CyberBrick 4WD Car chassis, featuring a compact structure and an ingeniously designed rotatable turret. It is a rare gem in the Body Shell design category!" — @wuguigui Further muscularized creation based on the wuguigui CyberBrick 4x4 carby YYcc"This model creatively reimagines the body kits and hood of my CyberBrick 4WD Car, adding a sport-style rear wing that delivers a powerful visual impact. It seamlessly integrates with the original design language, showcasing the creator's exceptional design skills and aesthetic mastery." — @wuguigui Excellent Participation Award GIFSplit Headlight for CyberBrick 4WD Car / Wuguiguiby ArnosjeJurassic Park 4x4 Mini Off Roader & Rigid Tiresby BG3D15X-Honeycomb Pattern_OD96 for D49 RIMby Lmaker_GKit Mad Max - pour le 4x4 Mini Off-Roaderby LaLoutreCyberbrick Little Bug - Body only for 4WD chassisby 3DJPThe Cyber Garageby oSPARKSo Finally, a huge thank you once again to everyone who submitted their creations!Salute to Makes

Hi everyone, welcome to the contest: Hosted By Creator:@wuguiguiCyberBrick RC Cars Remix. It’s been great seeing the nice models being uploaded so far. I’ve received several questions regarding the files, specifically asking for fully assembled models to make remixing easier. While the individual chassis and rim STEP files are already available, I realize you might need more context for your designs. I’ve just uploaded the fully assembled STL files for both vehicles(CyberBrick 4WD Car or 4x4 Mini Off-Roader) to help you create even better remixes.   You can find the files on the model page, as shown in the image below. You're invited to design new body shells, rims&wheels, or develop any kinds of accessories, such as functional add-ons, decorative elements, obstacles, garages, and more for these two models. Please keep in mind that all contest entries must be directly related to one of the two vehicles -CyberBrick 4WD Car or 4x4 Mini Off-Roader. To remain eligible, your entry must clearly show its relationship to the car in the uploaded images. Submissions that do not meet these criteria will be removed from the contest. I have always believed that great ideas are just as valuable as great design. Therefore, for this contest, I'd like to establish two awards with equal prizes to recognize and support these two types of outstanding work. That’s why this contest features two equal prizes: 4,900 points for “The Best Design” and 4,900 points for “The Best Creative Award”. I want to support both technical skill and outside-the-box thinking! If you have any questions about the contest, please feel free to ask me. Let's bring the dream to life together. Be bold — and let your creativity run wild!  Specific GuidelinesContest Guidelines1. Upload your original 3D models to MakerWorld in .3MF or .STIL format. Including a Print Profile with your model can help you gain more Likes and Downloads.2. Upload your 3D remix model within the Contest Period. *Remix model are not supported in the contest page yet — PLEASE upload as Original model first, then after entering switch it to Remix model and select “MakerWorld Exclusive License”.3. Each model must be printable on an FDM printer.4. Include real photos of the model(s).5. Write a model description.6. After uploading your models, navigate to the Contest page and select "Join the Contest".7. Click the "Compete" button for the models you wish to enter into the contest. Contest Rules1. Each participant may submit up to 5 entries per contest. Exceeding this limit will result in disqualification.2. Entries irrelevant to the contest theme will be removed, with 100 points deducted and one submission slot consumed per violation.3. Any participant with 2 entries removed in a single contest will be disqualified from the current contest. Accumulating 5 violations will result in a 60-day ban from all contests.4. Old models, i.e., models that were published before the Contest Period, or models that have already received rewards from the MakerWorld Design Contest, are not eligible.5. AI-generated models are not eligible for competition.6. Models that are not remixes of the CyberBrick 4WD Car or 4x4 Mini Off-Roader are not eligible. CriteriaWinning entries will be selected by @wuguigui based on the following criteria:- Visual Appeal (20%): The images or videos of the model are outstanding.- Completion (20%): Whether the model is detailed, complete, and includes assembly instructions.- Practicality (30%): The design is easy to print and can be used in practice.- Innovation(30%): Originality and uniqueness in concept or technique.*Models that do not comply with contest rules will be excluded from consideration.*If a participant has more than 1 entry, @wuguigui will comprehensively evaluate all the entries together. Each participant can only have 1 entry to win an award at most.

Since I began uploading models to the website in 2019, I have always included an assembly guide. For simple models, one diagram is usually enough; for complex models the guide can be as detailed—or more—than the model itself. Many people have asked how I create these guides, so here’s a concise explanation of my process and lessons learned. Background My first detailed guide was for the “Enclosure for Snapmaker 2.0” (for the Snapmaker A250). The enclosure uses aluminum profiles, acrylic panels, 3D-printed parts, and screws. I built it myself and could assemble it from memory, but I needed a way to guide others if I wanted to share the model with them. After producing a detailed guide, other users were able to reproduce the enclosure successfully. That experience started my ongoing practice of making complete assembly guides.Enclosure for Snapmaker 2.0 Assembly Guide“Make” by others:   Layout and ToolsYou can use any design software (Photoshop, Illustrator, CorelDRAW, etc.).Because many users print guides, I recommend A4 portrait layout. (Not all my models’ assembly guides are in this type; before, I didn’t realize users would print them.)I divide the assembly guide into three main parts: Brief, Bill of Materials, and Diagram & Instructions. (Note: I now usually put the Brief in the model’s online “Model Information,” so the guide typically contains the last two parts.)1. Bill of Materials (BOM)The BOM lists every item needed: 3D-printed parts, non-printed parts, tools, and special-filament requirements.I prefer presenting everything in a single image so users can check at a glance—this is my “Before Start” checklist.Numbered part labels (like plastic model kits) help identification(Cipher Helmet Lock), but add a lot of work because every step must keep labels consistent. For moderately simple models, I avoid full numbering to save time—and sometimes a little discovery is enjoyable for the builder, as the image shows below. Comment on the model page of 4x4 Mini Off-RoaderThese are some examples of my “Before Start”.Bird LampCipher Helmet LockCyberBrick Tank 2. Diagram & Instructions 2.1 DiagramUse the same CAD software you modeled the parts in to export diagrams. I use Rhinoceros, but any CAD package will work. The advantage is you already have all parts and correct perspectives in the CAD environment.My preferred method in Rhinoceros: export two transparent PNGs from the same viewport—one in Rendered mode (shows realistic color and shading) and one in Pen mode (shows clear edges). Combine them in layout software and set the Pen layer transparency to 40–60% to get images that are both realistic and clear. If you're not a Rhinoceros user, there's no need to import your model files into Rhinoceros. Simply stick to the CAD software you're already using. The key point is to ensure that the diagrams you create closely resemble the real model parts and have clear edges for users to understand.Use the “Capture viewport to file”  command to save a  Rendered mode image with “PNG” format in RhinocerosRendered mode PNG image with transparent backgroundPen mode PNG image with transparent backgroundCombine 2 images in CorelDraw and set the Pen layer transparency to 40–60%  An alternative is to “Make 2-D drawing” and export vector curves (.ai/.dwg) for an IKEA-style look; vectors are editable but lack shading/shadow and require re-export if the viewpoint changes.For highlighting, you can color parts differently to show assembled vs. to-be-assembled parts . As the images show below(Cipher Helmet Lock), all the parts in step 3 are in white in step4, only the to-be-assembled parts are in red. It’s a good way to highlight to-be-assembled parts. But requires a significant amount of time and effort to make diagrams.                2.2 InstructionsStep groups and sequences: Break complex assemblies into major steps and smaller sequences to keep the flow clear. As the image shows below(CyberBrick 4WD Car).Arrows: I model arrows in CAD so they share the same perspective as parts—this clarifies insertion/rotation directions.Shell Lamp V2.0Attention marks and notes: Use bright, consistent markers (I use two orange triangles) to call out cautions or critical details.Camera with Shutter Case for Realme GT8 ProPractical Tips & TradeoffsNumbering every part is precise but costly in time—reserve it for highly complex projects or when part interchangeability is likely.Combining Rendered + Pen images gives the best balance of realism and clarity for complex parts.Color-highlighting is effective but scales poorly without a tool to manage parts and sequences.The purpose of any assembly guide is to help users understand the process clearly, avoid errors, and successfully complete the build. Making high-quality guides is time-consuming but essential for reproducibility. I hope someone can develop better, more user-friendly authoring tools that can simplify this work later. One Last ThingPlease use genuine software during all stages of model creation and assembly guide production—supporting official tools encourages continued development of better, user-friendly tools, doesn’t it? The software I use for model creation and assembly guide production:CorelDRAW Graphics Suite 2021 for WindowsRhinoceros 8 Educational for Windows Thank you for supporting me always. I hope this article can provide some inspiration for your assembly guide production.Salute to Makes!

Recently, I uploaded a new CyberBrick model—the CyberBrick 4WD Car. It received a lot of likes, and many people have been curious about how I designed it. So today, I’d like to share the story behind this project and walk you through my design process. As I mentioned in my previous model, “CyberBrick 4X4 Jeep”: “I have always wanted to design an RC 4×4 vehicle by myself since I was a kid…”. I began studying Industrial Design at Zhejiang University in 1999. After starting my master’s degree in Design in 2003, I also began working as an industrial designer alongside my studies. Throughout all those years of learning and professional practice, I never forgot my childhood dream. For a period of time, I designed many kids’ ride-on cars. Some of these designs were put into production and sold through ToysRUs. However, I also had many concept designs that remained on paper. One of these concepts was posted on Lofer.com in 2016, as shown in the image below.This concept car featured a simple, retro-inspired design. At that time, I never imagined that I would one day bring it to life—especially after I started working as a university lecturer and left the kids’ ride-on car design field. In 2019, I began using 3D printers to design things in my spare time. I quickly realized that these machines could help designers not only create prototypes, but also produce functional objects for daily use. From then on, I started enthusiastically designing models specifically optimized for 3D printing. In 2025, Bambu Lab released a revolutionary kit called CyberBrick, which enables makers to create RC models based on 3D printing. This greatly expanded the application possibilities of desktop 3D printing. I really liked the CyberBrick kit, so in 2025 I designed three CyberBrick models: CyberBrick Tank, CyberBrick 4X4 Jeep, and CyberBrick 4WD Car. All of them achieved high download numbers and received many likes.  When I started designing the CyberBrick 4X4 Jeep, my main goal was to verify whether 3D-printed parts could realistically achieve a four-wheel-drive transmission structure. Inspired by LEGO Technic parts, I designed a series of new 3D-printable components that could be printed without supports. The result was very successful: a 4×4 Jeep with two differentials and a rigid-axle dependent suspension. After uploading it to MakerWorld, it became very popular. This success encouraged me to design a new car based on it.First, I designed a new chassis featuring double-wishbone independent suspension, which is more compact and faster than the CyberBrick 4X4 Jeep. The next challenge was designing a body shell that could properly match this chassis. At that point, I recalled the concept car I had designed years earlier.Driving test of the new chassisAnother major challenge was designing a combined lighting system, where the headlight and indicator are arranged as concentric circles.Many people have commented that this car looks like the Honda e or other similar models, but in fact, it comes from my original design—though it is, of course, influenced by many previous car designs. I modeled the car body using Rhinoceros 9 (WIP version), which includes a new Patch tool capable of creating G2-continuous surfaces from more than four edges. This tool was extremely helpful for car body surface modeling. You can see an early version of the body shell in the image below.The entire body shell went through at least five major versions, and I can’t even count how many detail modifications were made. I don’t usually save too many intermediate versions, as doing so interrupts my creative flow. I believe this is also one of Rhinoceros’ strengths: unlike many engineering-oriented CAD software packages with rigid workflows and procedural logic, Rhino feels much more like a designer’s tool. From the images below, you can see how the body shell evolved, including the initial design of the front bumper. I struggled with the bumper style for a long time before deciding to use an integrated bumper rather than a separate one. From Ver.03, I began seriously considering the “No-Support Printing” strategy for the car body shell parts, as well as the most challenging component—the “Combined Lighting System”. “No Support Printing”Many of my models carry the label “No Support Printing”, meaning that all parts can be printed without supports. All three of my CyberBrick models follow this principle. Achieving this in the CyberBrick 4WD Car was particularly challenging.To make it possible, I had to:Split the body shell into several partsCut the shell from the sides with two delicate slashesMake the bottoms of the front and rear bumpers flatAdd specific angled surfaces to certain detailsAll of these efforts allowed every body shell part to be printed without supports.Cut the shell from the sides with two delicate slashes The most critical technique here is what I call “manually generated support.” After separating the body shell, I found that the bottoms of many parts were too narrow and could easily fail during printing without additional assistance. To solve this, I added additional support structures, which can be seen in the assembly guide. These additional supports can help to generate inner brims with a 0 mm gap in Bambu Studio, as shown in the image below. They are easy to remove after printing and do not affect surface quality. Since all brim edges are located on the back side of the body shell—similar to undergated parts in plastic model kits—the visible surfaces remain clean. I first applied this technique in the CyberBrick 4X4 Jeep. In the CyberBrick 4WD Car, I expanded its usage and, for the first time, added additional lines to shape the inner brim areas in certain parts.BTW, numerous detail refinements were made to the body shell not only to achieve “No Support Printing”, but also to enhance its structural strength. Combined Lighting SystemFrom the moment I first used the CyberBrick kit, I wanted to design a more advanced lighting system. In my earlier models—the CyberBrick Tank and CyberBrick 4X4 Jeep—I followed the official LED setup guide. However, I soon discovered a limitation: in the CyberBrick app, when you combine the indicator and headlight into a single LED, turning the indicator on and off also turns the headlight off. As a result, many creators set the headlight to turn on when the indicator is off, which means the two cannot be controlled independently. I wanted to solve this by placing the headlight and indicator on 2 separate LEDs connected to 2 different LED hubs. At the beginning, I didn’t realize that the limited length of the LED wires would become a major issue later. The first challenge was designing a concentric lighting assembly: the headlight in the center and the indicator as an outer ring. This required ensuring that both LEDs could function independently, without interference, while keeping the overall assembly as compact as possible.I went through many iterations to achieve this. I printed transparent PETG parts using the most transparency-optimized settings recommended in the Bambu Wiki. To achieve both no-support printing and maximum transparency, I even used “Add Modifier” to apply different print settings to different regions of the same transparent part. You can see this in the print profile named “LED Transparent Parts.”  When I finally achieved full functionality for the first time, I was extremely happy—but that excitement didn’t last long.Combined Lighting System testI soon realized that the LED wire length is only 10 cm, which is not long enough to support both front and rear lighting assemblies. Since all indicator LEDs must be connected to one hub—and likewise for headlights and taillights—it’s not possible to place one LED hub in the front and another in the rear. I tried many approaches, but none of them worked. In the end, I had to make a compromise. I chose to prioritize full functionality of the headlights and indicators, and abandoned the taillight function. Both LED hubs were placed in the front, and I extended the length of the rear indicator’s transparent parts so that the LED wire could still reach the hub. At least in this way, the rear indicators remain functional. This project explores how design constraints can become creative drivers rather than limitations, while validating a complete workflow from concept to an RC vehicle. It reflects my ongoing exploration of integrating industrial design thinking with 3D printing technologies. In short, with the support of 3D printing and CyberBrick, I was able to realize my childhood dream. Thank you, Bambu Lab! Thank you, MakerWorld! Thank you, CyberBrick! I will continue exploring along this path. Salute to Makes!