whiskey_actual

Josh-3D

A set of canister models! I've set these up in 3 basic sizes, with 3 different heights for the larger sizes. Comes in 80mm, 120mm, and 170mm , with variants that are 40mm, 80mm, and 120mm tall. The smallest, 80mm version only comes in a 80mm height.&nbsp;The 80mm and 120mm versions use 8 M4x20mm screws. You can use longer screws, but at a minimum you should use 20mm screws. The 170mm version uses 12 M4x20mm screws!&nbsp;Was looking to do something fun and stylish, and try and push things beyond the basic cylinders. Was a fun project and I hope to incorporate the things I learned from this project into future ones.&nbsp;I highly advise you use fancy filaments for the main body, and please post your prints! I would love to see the color combinations everyone comes up with.&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you're looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.

Canisters

storage

Dr.Mussy

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>This magazine is an improved version of my previous design, It's still just a concept and in the future i'll be designing things that will work on it ;)If you are interested in other prop firearms, Airsoft parts and designs do join our group on Matrix: <a href="https://app.element.io/?pk_vid=f12152aac29bbc4a166549437941781a#/room/%23GCI-General:matrix.org" rel="nofollow">https://app.element.io/?pk_vid=f12152aac29bbc4a166549437941781a#/room/#GCI-General:matrix.org</a>!!!Note: I'm always open for suggestion and help on improving the design and proof of concept.!Don't forget to "Click A Like" & check out my other Cool designs and Follow my Weekly dose of KooKoo uploads ;)</div></div>

Banana Mag V2

pistols

Johnny No. 5

Who doesn&#39;t like silly desk displays? conversation starters? I do, so I decided to make this!In case of annoyance, however slight (Lets be honest, if you&#39;re downloading this you aren&#39;t the most patient person in the world and, you probably have a twisted sense of humor), break the glass, and Peyton Manning an F-bomb into the offenders face! ( But seriously, don&#39;t do that, you&#39;ll probably get fired…….or at a minimum HR will be involved and you&#39;ll look bad because you&#39;ll be laughing the whole time).&nbsp;Easy to print, very few supports, and, really fun!&nbsp;Extra Parts required:*1/8&#34; Pane of glass or plexiglass( if you don&#39;t have access to glass or a cutter, places like Home Depot/Lowes or other home improvement centers can usually cut a piece of glass to your needs, IF you&#39;re buying a piece of glass. You can also buy a cheap frame from Walmart that might have glass that will fit!)*Superglue. Don&#39;t cheap out. the stuff you get from groceries stores and retail stores is junk. Invest in some quality Hobby grade CA glue, Medium is my favorite. You&#39;ll be real upset if you get this all assembled and your entire model interior is hazed white from the glue off-gassing as it cures…..ask me how I know. LOL&nbsp;Here is the assembly instructions. I posted pictures of assembly as well.&nbsp;Assembly:<ol><li>Glue your bomb together, set aside and let dry while you assemble a few other pieces. It&#39;s as easy as gluing the square bomb peg into the bomb, then gluing the nose-cap assembly on. the Peg is clocked so it is easy to align the bomb body and nose cap.</li><li>Place your pane of glass inside the case. Glue the 4-corner pieces into place(see Picture). Remember, use very little superglue, as you don&#39;t want to smear it on the glass. You might be able to get away with just 2 of these little brackets, especially if your glass fits pretty tight. Take this opportunity to clean the interior glass, after the glue dries, very well. You won&#39;t be able to access it after the next two steps. It would be a real shame to have fingerprints on the inside after you glue this shut….you&#39;ll probably get made fun of, and, you&#39;ll have to break the glass and use the F-Bomb to defend your honor.</li><li>Glue the bomb onto the stand. I oriented mine with a slight upward angle, but, you don&#39;t have to.</li><li>Glue the bomb stand in place. There is a letter, &#34;R&#34; to signify which part of the stand should be facing the rear/ away from the glass.</li><li>Glue the hammer head onto the hammer handle. MAKE SURE THE INDENTION FOR THE CHAIN RING IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HANDLE, AWAY FROM THE HAMMER-HEAD. This may take some slight sanding to get the handle into the head.</li><li>Glue the chain ring onto the base of the handle.</li><li>Glue the rear panel, into the rear panel recess( I recommend letting this model sit open for a while. At least a 2-3 days as the glue, cures).</li><li>Glue the hammer stand into the detent on the side of the case. I recommend doing this last, so you don&#39;t knock it off or break it during other assembly steps. This may require a little sanding for it to fit.</li><li>Add a small chain or something to the hammer. I forgot to add a hole or whatever to the hammer holder, so, figure it out…or wait till I fix it later….. (You will see the chain I used in the pictures. I straightened a link, drilled a small hole to shove the straightened piece into, then glued it in place.)</li><li>Hang your Hammer assembly. This is a tight fit. You need to insert and rotate the handle, then lower and click into place on the bracket.</li></ol>&nbsp;Make SURE you allow time for all the glue to dry before closing the rear panel. Super glue, especially the cheaper stuff/Gel you buy at normal stores( Gorilla Glue Gel, Loctite Gels, ETC) tend to off-gas for a LONG time as they cure. This can cause a white haze on the glass, model pieces, everything. I highly recommend using a higher grade CA glue, as mentioned above). If you get hazing, a little petroleum jelly or something similar can fix the issue. Just rub the piece with a thin coat, wipe the excess, and BOOM! Good as new.&nbsp;You&#39;ll notice that the pictures show the most of the hammer head and bomb nose in gold, but, the plates have the primary color as grey. That&#39;s because I&#39;m poor and only have 1-AMS. My 4th AMS slot is for PETG, which I use for support interfaces. Print those in whatever color you like. Just paint them in whatever color you prefer, or, leave em grey….I don&#39;t care what you do, I&#39;m not your real Dad and I can&#39;t tell you what to do, so do what you want.&nbsp;Lastly, I may eventually upgrade the case to have a channel for the glass, so you don&#39;t have to use the little bracket thingies. But, I&#39;m lazy and I don&#39;t want to right now. Using the brackets also doesn&#39;t limit the thickness of glass you can use, which, is nice.&nbsp;Hope you enjoy the model!!

Break In Case of Emergency, F-Bomb (Desk Model)

random

A.Blink

Geometric shark

sharks

eatrix

My model of Robert/People planter, this one is called “Lying reader”.&nbsp;For medium sized plants choose medium sized version, cup size 80 mm / 3.15 inch.For larger ones increase cup size to 110 mm / 4.33 inch.&nbsp;This model needs some minor supports (for the book and head at one point). For better adhesion I recommend using Brim.I like to print these planters with fuzzy skin turned on (contour, fuzzy skin distance - 0.3, fuzzy skin thickness - 0.1).It can be printed smooth also, just be sure to check that seam is placed at Back/Rear.&nbsp;When planting cactus or succulents at the bottom I add a little bit of pebbles for drainage and then potting soil.And don&#39;t forget to water it according to your plant needs :)

People planter "Lying reader"

wife s#$t

modybird

Helldivers 2 Charger pulled from the in-game files. Credit goes to the Arrowhead artists who work on the game. Remixed from Helldivers 2.&nbsp;Made my own model of this from the in-game files and refined them using Blender. &nbsp;Printed upside down, supports are needed. Post-processing is needed to remove the supports everywhere &nbsp;Check out my other models for more Helldivers stuff. Happy printing!

FIXED: Helldivers 2 Bile Titan Made by Arrowhead 

video games

inksterexpress

I revised my previously published Reel Holder. This one is stronger at the hole mounting location and is easily 3D printed.&nbsp;Fits reels from 500-3000 series.

Fishing Reel Holder 500-3000 

fishing

Zurlingo-3D

<h2>Marshall Mini Stack Smartphone Amplifier/Stand</h2>&nbsp;Features:<ul><li>A Scale Replica Of A Marshall JCM800 Head And Cab</li><li>80mm x 15mm Phone Slot</li><li>Functional Speaker Grill</li><li>Bass Expansion Chamber</li><li>Downward Facing Ports</li><li>Separated Into Parts For Easy Multicolour Printing</li><li>Greatly Improved Audio Quality Over Stock Phone Speaker</li><li>Much Better Low/Mid Frequency Response With A Noticeable Bass Boost</li><li>Much More Directed Sound Projection</li><li>Master Volume is set to 11 as a nod to Spinal Tap </li></ul><figure class="media"></figure>I have separated this model into separate print profiles for easy printing. This will save you having to adjust settings within Bambu Studio when using a 0.2mm nozzle. The only thing you need to do is physically swap nozzle and change the nozzle type on the printer itself :)&nbsp;Assembly:<ul><li>All parts must be glued together. It requires the smallest amount of glue to hold the parts in place, so be cautious not to use too much.</li><li>The logos have a recessed impression in the speaker grills of the main body, for easy alignment.</li></ul>&nbsp;Extra Info:<ul><li>The front panel and white edging strips must be printed with a 0.2mm nozzle to retain as much quality as possible. At this scale the text is barely readable, but does still give the desired effect. You can of course scale the amp up enough to retain all of the text if you want to :)</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>The main body will print with no support (The example print was printed this way) BUT this does require two 80mm un-supported bridges and some clean up with a sharp craft knife post print. This is in order to get a nice fit with the edging strips.</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>The feet are important to the overall sound quality. If the amp is rested directly on a flat surface then there is nowhere for the ports to project the sound. You can also change the EQ of the sound by adjusting this height (increase Z axis scale of the feet only, in Bambu studio.)</li></ul>&nbsp;I really hope you like this one! - It&#39;s been a fair amount of work to achieve what I wanted with this design and I&#39;m really happy with how it turned out :)&nbsp;Please rate and review your printing experience&nbsp;Don&#39;t forget to add a picture of your amp to the comments below :P&nbsp;Thanks for looking!<h3> </h3>Please also check out my latest mini amp here:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/513021#profileId-429098" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/513021#profileId-429098</a> &nbsp;<img class="image_resized" style="width: 48.12%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000415129/design/2024-06-26_961bc99b784b7.png">&nbsp;

Marshall Mini Stack Smartphone Amplifier/Stand

phones

The_Print

<h2>Summary</h2>Minor redesign of jbergmans&#39; 2032 battery storage. Can hold up to 8 batteries of types CR2032 and CR2025.Very easy to print, small supports only needed for the inner part.&nbsp;NEW: Now with a 10x coin cell battery capacity (vs the original 8x). Both are available.<h2>Print Settings</h2>Printer Brand: Prusa                                            Printer:                      I3 MK3S&nbsp;Rafts: No                                            Supports:                      Yes&nbsp;Resolution: 0.1                                            Infill:                      25%&nbsp; Filament: Sunlu PLA+ White<h2>Post-Printing</h2>Just glue the inner part on the cap and that&#39;s it!<h2>How I Designed This</h2>Designed in SolidWorks 2020 based on the general look and images of the original part by jbergmans. Native SolidWorks files available along with STL files.

Battery Storage (CR2032 & CR2025) - 8 and 10 slots

batteries 

PartyLime

GEN 12: please see my profile for the GEN 12 ball. There&#39;s a limit of 500mb on one page so I had to make another for the latest Gen. It bounces really well and feels super durable in TPC I wasn&#39;t satisfied with the current models of the airless basketball on here as they only had a single lattice. This took me days make sure the double lattice worked in CAD - SolidWorks was not built for this! As I don&#39;t have $2,500 to spare, I worked from the images available online.I printed it in TPU. It doesn&#39;t bounce as much as a standard basketball in TPU so I suggest a stiffer material.&nbsp;GEN 9: I have added a gen 9 version. It is a little closer to the original and should weigh about the right amount when printed in TPU/PLA&nbsp;GEN 10: I have adjusted the size of the hex holes and increased the filled on them. I&#39;ve also increased the lattice thickness to 8mm to hopefully increase bounce. The logo on the top and the airless gen 10 tag have also increased in size a little to improve how they look. Lastly, the holes around the seam are now pentagons as in the original ball&nbsp;GEN 11: I have added a new version with cut-outs throughout the seams. This will hopefully make the bounce more consistent.&nbsp;The original version I uploaded was removed due to “abnormal download data”. MakerWorld support took all my points but said I could re-upload so here it is again. Hopefully that won&#39;t happen again. MATERIALS:Extrudr Hard TPU (58D) - good durability about 40% bounceOverture Super PLA+ - 100% bounce but broke easilyOverture easy nylon (PA6) - broke almost instantly (the community have suggested “annealing” the print in water to increase durability)BASF Forward AM Ultrafuse TPU 64D - good durability and 60% bounce (BEST SO FAR)BASF Ultrafuse TPC 45D - good durability and great bounce. I recommend annealing this one at 110°C for 10 hours at least.

Airless basketball

toys 

Williams Industries

I know there are a few different versions out there, but I did not like the fit and finish on them. Here we have 5 versions, a plain one, red letters, yellow letters, McNaughty, and a keychain. THESE ARE REPLICAS AND SHOULD NOT BE USED IRL.&nbsp;LETTERS ARE DONE IN BS SO YOU CAN EASILY EDIT THIS TO SAY WHATEVER YOU WANT. &nbsp;We have a lot of great stuff over at the Patreon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/WilliamsIndustries" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/WilliamsIndustries</a>&nbsp;Patreon includes commercial use on all prints.

The McMess Around & McFind Out

Weapons

agepbiz

<figure class="media"></figure>&nbsp;1:64 Print-in-place kit card. Print in place kit-card toy. Use a pair of flush cutters to separate the parts then assemble the toy. I have included both a single color version and a multicolor version&nbsp;The Jeep Kit Card: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/223303#profileId-241285" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/223303</a> The Trailer: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/428258#profileId-332362" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/428258</a>The Gun:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/469311#profileId-378676" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/469311</a>&nbsp;Subscribe or follow me on: Instagram: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/agepbiz/" rel="nofollow noopener">www.instagram.com/agepbiz</a> YouTube: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/user/agepbiz" rel="nofollow noopener">www.youtube.com/user/agepbiz</a> Twitter: <a target="_blank" href="https://twitter.com/agepbiz" rel="nofollow noopener">www.twitter.com/agepbiz</a>&nbsp;WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD - Small parts Not for children under 3 yrs.&nbsp;Printsettings: No support No raft 0,16mm layer height

37mm Gun M3 for the Jeep Kit Card

models 

Jorge Rui

<h3>Introduction and contextualization</h3>A box for spools, I know there are many out there, but for those who already know me, they know that I like to do things my own way. So, I decided to make a box for the filament spools.  What is particular about it, you may ask:<ol><li>It must be closed and provide the best possible seal (I think I&#39;ve managed to do that)</li><li>Allow its production on the Bambu Lab X, P and A1 printer&#39;s (the mini is out), and that why the model is divided in 4 parts.</li><li>Easy printing with minimal material usage, PETG and TPU, and 3 screws and corresponding nuts to create a good seal, which is necessary for insulation.</li><li>It should be aesthetically pleasing, visually communicating its function (more on this later).</li><li>Be aesthetically interesting while fulfilling functional needs (such as sealing and others).</li><li>Allow for the placement of some desiccant at the base to maintain controlled humidity levels.<ol><li>Check my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/878116-desiccant-container-for-spools" rel="nofollow noopener">Desiccant container for Spools</a></li></ol></li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_jwx6iotd86ps.png"></figure>This version cannot be used to feed the printer with filament (see image bellow, serving instead as a temporary storage container and always with the accessory mentioned in the previous point to keep humidity levels low. It should last for a few weeks... The time it takes for the desiccant to become saturated depends on the humidity in your area. I recommend <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3ywHAkg" rel="nofollow noopener">silica desiccant</a>, which can be reused by heating it in an oven or microwave.For more permanent storage, you can use vacuum bags.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_fsi2f6dt0gkp.png"></figure>So, here it is saying hi and taking off his hat ;)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_m7g62ayx5544.png"></figure>&nbsp;The Closing clips can represent the color and material that inside the box, the text on the clip can be edited on Bambu Studio.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_j4bvn16x1kfz.png"></figure>You can choose between the version with or without the logo, chose the 3mf file that suits you best.<blockquote>For some reason, there has been a movement within the community against displaying the Bambu Lab logo on my work. In my opinion, the logo is an interesting graphic element and much like in some sports, people enjoy showcasing the brand, creating a sense of belonging to a group. While there could be many reasons for opposition, tastes are subjective, making this a trivial matter that I will not discuss more.Another point to note is that neither Bambu Lab, Prusa, nor any other company pays me to include their logo on these models. This process is an inherent artistic feature. To end this, beauty is always in the eye of the beholder.</blockquote><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_aopgdwqnicdc.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_zw0sh990xfk2.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_9evotkab6205.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_kybvegq67dk5.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_l67ul8rmcu4t.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_c8y9du0irie6.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>And an example of a printed part with Translucent PETG from bambu labThere is a other version, prime, that was designed with the filament feed in mind, more advanced, with rollers, pneumatic adapter and other features:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_xv9fv02vwmir.png"></figure>If you are “<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@jorge_rui/store" rel="nofollow noopener">my club member</a>” you can download it <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/880895-spoolbox-for-bambu-lab" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.<h3>Printing parameters</h3>Special care has been taken to provide the models with the printing parameters already defined; however, you are free to change whatever you them if necessary. The use of multiple colors should not hinder those who do not have a multi-material printing unit, as there are only 4 color changes throughout the process. That being said, the provided 3mf files are configured for use with the AMS and changing them for printing without the AMS is up to you.  I would like to emphasize that these models cannot be distributed in any way or form; therefore, any alterations are solely for your own use. This decision stems from issues I had previously, where my work was copied extensively, leading to accusations that I had copied the models myself (my own models…)<blockquote>Some may have some special feature that you can configure to your linking&#39;s. An examples is the closing clip that you can change the text label and material color to match the spool material.</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_i6ypksrelafw.png"></figure><ul><li>Printing material <a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG and TPU</a> from Bambu Lab,<ul><li>Other material can use other materials you may prefer, like <a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA</a>, but PETG can make translucent parts (not easy, but possible (very slow and hot with a nice quality filament without moister, and don&#39;t expect &#34;glass&#34; like opacity. Here you can find an exceptional example of application: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass" rel="nofollow noopener">How To Print Glass by Rygar1432</a></li><li>the file “SpoolBox_translucent.3mf” contains some top lids (with logo and clean) with a configuration that I think will render you the best results without taking you days to print. The one made by Rygar1432 will give you the best result, but will be a very slow print approx. 20mm/s</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_zzqvbl8t0tfh.png"></figure><h4>Parts included that are needed to print</h4><ul><li>Base (<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG or PLA)</a>;<ul><li>Right</li><li>Left</li></ul></li><li>Top (<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG or PLA</a>);<ul><li>Right</li><li>Left</li></ul></li><li>Joints (<a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpo2" rel="nofollow noopener">TPU</a>)<ul><li>Volume 1 &amp; Volume 2, They include:<ul><li>Side<ul><li>Top</li><li>Bottom</li></ul></li><li>Top<ul><li>Right</li><li>Left</li></ul></li><li>4x Foot&#39;s</li></ul></li></ul></li><li>Hinge and Closing Clip (<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">PETG or PLA or any other material you like)</a><ul><li>in total there are 2 parts, that print in place 4 bodies.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Assembling</h4>See image on how to assemble (The exploded view may help one this, so check it)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_bega79b57gvh.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-18_04y1zjviaeqs.png"></figure>The feet&#39;s on the base must be glued if you what to use them (recommended).If you want to add a humidity sensor, there is a configuration for that on the 3mf file included. I&#39;ve use this <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3WDsFPk" rel="nofollow noopener">temperature and humidity sensor</a>.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000467045/design/2024-05-21_4423bb8d0b54f.png"><figcaption>Box with humidity sensor</figcaption></figure><h4>Support the designer:</h4>This design is free for the benefit of the community, but If you like my designs and want to contribute, you can make a donation to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/designrepcom" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee </a>or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=BUM67EMDJRXSN&amp;no_recurring=0&amp;currency_code=EUR" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal, </a>or even better, join “My Club” here in printables.com, that will be greatly appreciated.Change Log<ul><li>(17-05-2024) - Initial release</li></ul>

SpoolBox 4 all

BamBam Design

<h4>Toroidal Windmill - Self adjusting turbine</h4>Looks like a spinning flower and no much wind is needed.<a target="_blank" href="https://youtube.com/shorts/WrKHW2Cdyvk?si=byQ_EpJAfOOy8x7F" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube Short</a>&nbsp;<ul><li>Beautiful Windmill with toroidal Propeller Blades</li><li>Self adjusting to wind direction (Tail Blade Reworked)</li><li>100% printed, no Screws or tools needed</li><li>You can add 3 Propellers on one Axle with 2 distances</li><li>Full customizable with different propeller sizes and directions (I plan to add more cool propeller types as well)</li><li>Rods are stack able to your needed height</li></ul><h4>Printing:</h4>You can choose Propellers from 3 Print Profiles<ul><li>Basic Parts with Left&amp; Right Propeller to choose</li><li>Additional Propeller Blades</li><li>Additional Slower Propeller *New</li></ul>You can mix the propellers from these profiles.<ul><li>added one profile for A1mini without the biggest blade as well</li></ul>The rod could be a bit difficult to print, i added custom support, but clean your buildplate and apply some glue.&nbsp;PETG &amp; PLA tested👍🏼<h4>Assembly:</h4><h4>Info:</h4><ul><li>Added custom support to the horizontal printing rod</li><li>Added optional longer axle for more distance between propellers (10mm instead of 5mm).  With stronger wind the bigger blades should not collide.</li></ul>The Pitch from the Basic Blades:<ul><li>Big - Pitch 195mm</li><li>Med - Pitch 170mm</li><li>Small - Pitch 135mm</li></ul>Additional Propeller Blades with different numbers of Wings:<ul><li>Big - Pitch 190mm</li><li>Med - Pitch 160mm</li><li>Small - Pitch 130mm</li></ul>Additional “Slower” Propeller Blades:<ul><li>Big - Pitch 400mm</li><li>Med - Pitch 325mm</li><li>Small - Pitch 250mm</li></ul>Thanks to all followers and don&#39;t forget the virtual handshake 👍 ….Happy Printing&nbsp;Info II:My other windmills are fully compatible if you want to mix it up:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/models/235261" rel="nofollow noopener">Toroidal Windmill</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/250216" rel="nofollow noopener">Honeycomb Windmill</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/388124" rel="nofollow noopener">Elliptical Windmill</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/425419" rel="nofollow noopener">Sunflower Windmill</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/454861" rel="nofollow noopener">Raccoon Windmill</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/255324" rel="nofollow noopener">CLAMP for Windmills</a></li></ul>Info III:More modifications you find on my Patreon account.<figure class="image"><a href="https://www.patreon.com/posts/mod-608-bearing-105175595" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000235261/design/2024-05-30_3ad9786c3df1b.png"></a></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><a href="https://www.patreon.com/posts/mod-pole-adapter-103628897" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000235261/design/2024-05-30_70c92ad1f54a9.png"></a></figure>&nbsp;Commercial license you can get here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership</a>

Toroidal Windmill - Customizable system

garden

CasaPrint3D

Important: Using a heat-resistant material is critical for this project, especially for the clip that attaches to the vent. Beware of risk of clip deformation after parking under the sun, it may become loose over time (even with PETG). Temperature inside a car&#39;s dashboard can easily exceed 65C (150F) on a typical summer day.&nbsp;Please note than plastic-to-plastic contact will often generate a bit of noise, but personally I don&#39;t even notice it when I&#39;m cruising. If you already printed the V1 version, the only parts that have changed in geometry and that need to be reprinted are: ‘shaft’, ‘nacelle_top’, &#39;tip&#39;, and ‘fan_with_brims’. The default vent clip included, is now printed flat for increased strength.&nbsp;This miniature jet engine easily attaches to your car&#39;s AC vent. As it spins, it releases the fragrance of the elements you place inside its inner container.&nbsp;Among the things you can place inside here are some options:<ul><li>Freshly roasted coffee beans</li><li>A cotton with a few drops of essential oils</li><li>Aromatic plant leafs (lavender, rosemany, etc) - make sure they don&#39;t pass through the lid once it&#39;s closed</li></ul>Utilization<ol><li>Place the aromatic elements inside the recipient and screw the lid on top.</li><li>Screw the top cover</li><li>Place the fan - the side with extruded circle goes up </li><li>Insert the shaft - press until it clicks or hits the bottom. Make sure it is well aligned.</li><li>Place the tip of the fan and screw the car vent clip on the rear part. In case the tip doesn&#39;t stay atttached try scaling it down slightly.</li></ol><img class="image_resized" style="width: 71.49%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437900/design/2024-05-16_4560e8ec92314.png">Important:<ul><li>Printing with a heat-resistant material (i.e, ABS / ASA)</li><li>If the fan is too lose, which may happen depending on your tolerances try scaling it down slightly.</li><li>If the vent clip doesn&#39;t work for your car, I have included a second design as well.</li></ul>If that still doesn&#39;t work, please feel free to reach out to us in the comments.<ul><li>The fan may not spin at lower air conditioning settings, but a bit of WD40 on the shaft may help.</li><li>As a general caution: Do not place any ingredient that can be bad for breathing and do not manipulate while driving.</li><li>Remember that this file is for personal use only - For a commercial license please check our <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/CasaPrint3D" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a></li></ul>Print Settings:<ul><li>0.16mm layer height for the fan, the rest can be done at 0.2</li><li>No supports</li><li>Clean the fan from any burr or imperfections after print to improve the spin.</li></ul><a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Zy5KAO0LXY" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Zy5KAO0LXY</a>&nbsp;If you&#39;d like to support our work, you can donate here: <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/casaprint3d" rel="nofollow noopener">[Ko-Fi]</a> or give us a boost 🚀. Your contribution, no matter how small, helps us to continue bringing more 3D models to life. Thank you!&nbsp;Make sure to check out our latest design!: Anti-strees fidget pen with gears for 0.2mm nozzle.<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/458729#profileId-366866" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/458729#profileId-366866</a>&nbsp;<img class="image_resized" style="width: 50.49%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437900/design/2024-05-10_c31a44e8121fa.gif">&nbsp;Happy printing!

Turbofan aroma diffuser - Car vent mini Jet engine

 Vehicle 

Super_Laserkatz

Die Sonne brennt, deshalb wollte ich ein Sonnensegel spannen, habe aber letztes Jahr die Spannschlösser leider besonders gut weggelegt :D.Darum habe ich mich entschlossen schnell eins zu konstruieren. Mein Ziel war es ein stabiles Spannschloss herzustellen, das mich mit 80kg tragen könnte und damit sicher auch ein Sonnensegel befestigen kann. Gedruckt habe ich aus festigkeitstechnischen Gründen mit 4 Outlines, 40% Infill und ohne Support. Die Haken sind jeweils mit Rechts- und Linksgewinde und stehen in einer leichten und schweren Fassung zum Download. Die schwere Fassung konnte mein Gewicht tragen… die leichte nicht ;) (40kg schafft sie aber auf jedenfall)Für Witterungsbeständigkeit ABS oder ASA nehmen. Getestet habe ich mit PLA.Viel Spaß beim drucken!

Spannschloss für Sonnensegel, turnbuckle

hardware

SavageLau

<h2>If you want a commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon.</h2><h2>Personal use only.</h2>&nbsp;This model is design for MakerWorld light contest (2/5). Complete free version is only available on here Makerworld. <h3>Many people have contacted me said they willing to pay for the model. Other platform product manager reach and out said I could use their platform and selling this design for some money, but I have decided to keep it here for free for now. So there will be more people could enjoying it :) So show me your finshed print, I would like to see it. </h3><h3> Anywhere else you see this model upload is Unauthorized (please notify me and report them), beside my own account (SavageLau). </h3>&nbsp;<h2>If you would like purchase LED light needed for this design and filament from Bambu Lab Offical website: Affiliate link is below, so I can get some commission to support my future work. </h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4h4np" rel="nofollow noopener">https://shrsl.com/4h4np</a> </h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-03-23_4ad27b7082fe3.png"></figure><h2>Filaments that I use for this project: (Bambu Lab Offical website:)</h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4h4ns" rel="nofollow noopener">https://shrsl.com/4h4ns</a> </h2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>You may also like this design:</h2>PeaShooter Lamp Kit 001. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/174475#profileId-191833" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/174475#profileId-191833</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;My boss saw some Bellsprout light the other day and she want me to design one. I have one LED Lamp kit come with my a1mini and sitting for a while. So why not turning it into what she want. So the design started adpot the lamp kit into Bellsprout.I found this pic on Google, based on the posture and proportion started deisng.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_bc131748fd272.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-01_33679f29d502a.png"></figure><h2>Update: </h2><h3>2/2/2024. A new profile was made for a1mini. Increased infill/walls on base and body part. </h3>Model main body have been reduced in size inorder to meet the build plate size for a1mini with muti-color prints. &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2010665163" rel="nofollow noopener">@Sascha2202</a> feedback it is a bit hard to keep banlance. Weight increased on printing profile by adding more infill and walls. Weight for that part from 160g to 202g, lowered center of gravity. Consider head is around 40g + led weight, it should do well now. <h3>2/1/2024. Joints redesigned. </h3>Improved joints firction load, strength, tolerancing. New turning angle sets around 13.5 degrees max for each joints. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.72%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-01_d00693a8b7acb.png"></figure>“Head” part fit and finish improving. <h3>Revisions and Tests today:</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_ffe7e41994dec.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Before you print(Important!):</h2>Run the joint test print first with the filament you are going to use for joints and body, before you doing the full print! This is important. Depend on filaments you use for the joint parts, there will be sinkage rate difference, and firction load on joint will be different.&nbsp;I put very tight tolerancing on design, but it may not work as intended when you printing with your filaments, so run the test and confirm joints is very tight to each other. Other wise You will not get the desired result.&nbsp;&nbsp;Joints with other parts are standard size. There is one “Tight” profile for joints. There are two types of joint, regular and with wire clip one. You will need to print total of 12 or above (maybe less than 15) to get good proportion. &nbsp;Joints designed best work with 4 wall layers, and 10% to 20% infill, adding more infill will not improve the strength, will only leading part failure during assembly. &nbsp;<h2>Hard ware:</h2>This design require Lamp LED Kit 001 from Bambu Lab. All other parts are printable. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-31_bca061fd80f1d.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Post work:</h2>Removing brims from all parts, when you remove brim from joints part, confirm it is fully removed. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_dec1b2c670225.gif"></figure><h2>Assembly:</h2>Refer these gif image. Joints is a bit hard to push in, refer how I do it, holding the bottom part with you fingure, it will reduce the change of failure. &nbsp;Joints:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_5c978e23e8634.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_9f2e463b2d8a6.gif"></figure>Fully assembly:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_9a975d341b61f.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Design:</h2>Lamp kit is 60mm dia, 8mm thickness. based on that dims and make rough draft to evaluate the overall size.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_34bf66e6b20e5.png"></figure>&nbsp;Working on some parts, and integrate them in the end.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_4880a9ab2336a.png"></figure>&nbsp;I started with wanting ball joint on the head, so it will able to turn angles. End up why not to have more ball joints on the body.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_b08f0ea2e5ee9.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_80ec7f991cbaa.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_80ed16d7dd498.png"></figure>&nbsp;Ball joints is pain in the axx to work with. I want it to have a lot of friction load in normal condition. so the outter shell shall have very small tolerance to the ball or even smaller. Ended spending a lot of time try in truth to testing out different tolerances and make design revisions.Still not perfect, but it work for this application. You gain a lot of DOF, but it is a bit brittle, depends on your materials.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_153933e0ba5bb.png"></figure><h2>Revisions and tests:</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-31_641c974fd0d58.png"></figure>

BellSprout Lamp LED Kit 001

lamps

3DMDesign

Meet Puffin, an adorable tiny platypus who enjoys lounging on your table. With big soulful eyes and a smooth body, this little friend brings a touch of joy to any environment.

Platypus Puffin

animals 

JAV-3D

3D-Druckanleitung: Miniatur-Bowlingbahn-Set mit Print-in-Place-AufbewahrungsboxEinführung: Erleben Sie mit dem 3D-gedruckten Miniatur-Bowlingbahn-Set eine unterhaltsame Mischung aus Kreativität und Spielspaß. Diese detaillierte Anleitung führt Sie durch den gesamten Druckprozess und bietet nützliche Tipps für eine reibungslose Umsetzung.Teil 1: Bestandteile des SetsStellen Sie sicher, dass Sie alle Teile des Sets ausdrucken:<ul><li>Die realistisch gestaltete Bowlingkugel für präzise Würfe.</li><li>Die 10 sorgfältig gestalteten Bowlingpins für ein authentisches Bowlinggefühl.</li><li>Die speziell entworfene Aufstellhilfe, um den perfekten Abstand der Pins zu gewährleisten.</li><li>Die Print-in-Place-Aufbewahrungsbox, die nicht nur für einen bequemen Transport, sondern auch für eine sichere Lagerung sorgt.</li></ul>Teil 2: Druckeinstellungen und FilamentwahlVerwenden Sie eine 0,4 mm Düse und wählen Sie Ihr bevorzugtes Filament. PLA bietet Flexibilität, während ABS eine robustere Option ist. Passen Sie die Druckeinstellungen an, um die beste Druckqualität zu erzielen.Teil 3: Druckprozess für jedes BauteilDrucken Sie die Bowlingkugel, Pins, Aufstellhilfe und die Aufbewahrungsbox separat aus. Achten Sie darauf, die Druckparameter gemäß Ihren Präferenzen zu konfigurieren.Teil 4: Nachbearbeitung und MontageEntfernen Sie sorgfältig alle Stützstrukturen und überprüfen Sie die Bauteile auf Druckfehler. Montieren Sie die Bowlingbahn, indem Sie die Aufstellhilfe, Pins und Kugel entsprechend anordnen.Teil 5: Individuelle Gestaltung und LackierungExperimentieren Sie mit verschiedenen Filamentfarben, um Ihre Bowlingkugel und Pins einzigartig zu gestalten. Feine Pinseldetails können für eine realistischere Optik hinzugefügt werden.Teil 6: Spielerlebnis und AufbewahrungGenießen Sie spannende Bowlingmomente auf Ihrem Tisch. Die Aufbewahrungsbox eignet sich nicht nur für den Transport, sondern schützt die Bauteile auch vor Staub und Beschädigungen zwischen den Spielen.Teil 7: Teilen Sie Ihre ErfahrungenTeilen Sie Ihre Druckeinstellungen, Designvariationen und Spielerfahrungen mit der Community. Ermutigen Sie andere, ihre eigenen einzigartigen Bowlingbahnen zu erstellen.Zusammenfassung: Das Miniatur-Bowlingbahn-Set bietet ein faszinierendes Zusammenspiel von 3D-Druckkunst und unterhaltsamem Spiel. Diese Anleitung ermöglicht es Ihnen, nicht nur ein beeindruckendes Set zu erstellen, sondern auch Ihre kreativen Ideen einzubringen und mit anderen zu teilen. Viel Spaß beim Drucken und Spielen!&nbsp;&nbsp;English Translation:&nbsp;3D Printing Guide: Miniature Bowling Alley Set with Print-in-Place Storage BoxIntroduction: Experience a delightful blend of creativity and gameplay with the 3D-printed Miniature Bowling Alley Set. This comprehensive guide takes you through the entire printing process and provides useful tips for a smooth execution.Part 1: Components of the SetEnsure you print all components of the set:<ul><li>The realistically designed bowling ball for precise throws.</li><li>The 10 carefully crafted bowling pins for an authentic bowling experience.</li><li>The specially designed setup aid to ensure the perfect pin spacing.</li><li>The print-in-place storage box, offering convenient transport and secure storage.</li></ul>Part 2: Print Settings and Filament ChoiceUse a 0.4 mm nozzle and choose your preferred filament. PLA offers flexibility, while ABS is a sturdier option. Adjust the print settings for optimal print quality.Part 3: Printing Process for Each ComponentPrint the bowling ball, pins, setup aid, and storage box separately. Ensure to configure print parameters according to your preferences.Part 4: Post-Processing and AssemblyCarefully remove all support structures and inspect the components for printing errors. Assemble the bowling alley by arranging the setup aid, pins, and ball accordingly.Part 5: Customization and PaintingExperiment with different filament colors to make your bowling ball and pins unique. Fine brush details can be added for a more realistic appearance.Part 6: Gaming Experience and StorageEnjoy exciting bowling moments on your table. The storage box is not only suitable for transportation but also protects the components from dust and damage between games.Part 7: Share Your ExperiencesShare your print settings, design variations, and gaming experiences with the community. Encourage others to create their unique bowling alleys.Summary: The Miniature Bowling Alley Set offers a captivating interplay of 3D printing artistry and entertaining gameplay. This guide allows you to not only create an impressive set but also contribute your creative ideas and share them with others. Have fun printing and playing!