Wayne Elgar

Josh-3D

[Introduction]6/27/2024 - I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has downloaded and printed the shuffler! I&#39;ve had a few bumps in the road, and a few bugs to work out. I appreciate you all, the comments, the suggestions, and I&#39;m sorry for any of the issues caused by trying to get these early bug fixes and everything out there. It&#39;s like my own little No Man&#39;s Sky! My personal A1 Launch, haha. &nbsp;I had to adjust the model for sleeved cards, and I realized that might have caused some troubles for those that might have started printing the original one and then tried switching to the updated version. If it makes you feel any better, I&#39;ve got a whole pile of parts from upgrading the ones I made prior to my o-ring fix. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the instructions with some written notes to help clarify the assembly where needed. Hopefully I&#39;ve covered everything. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the BOM to include the o-rings properly for when you go to buy the parts from Maker&#39;s Supply. &nbsp;6/23/2024 - Minor Update. I had updated the profiles, but the X1/P1/A1 Profile didn&#39;t get updated correctly, it appears. I&#39;m very sorry about this. I&#39;ve just updated it and verified. If you want to make sure you have the latest, it&#39;s simple; the original had a plate for the TPU rollers all their own, but in the new profiles, they are part of the plate with the shafts since they are PLA now, with O-Rings. &nbsp;6/22/2024 - Big Update! I adjusted the model to accommodate sleeved cards. I had to ditch the TPU rollers. They worked for the most part for un-sleeved cards, but weren&#39;t perfect. For sleeved cards, it was no good. Luckily for me, Bambu started to carry O-rings on the Maker Supply, and Bob&#39;s your uncle, we&#39;re in business. It&#39;s much better. As much as I wanted to like TPU rollers, they were just still too smooth. I&#39;ll update the BOM section fully once I can link to the Maker&#39;s Supply entry for the o-rings. They are easy to find elsewhere too though like on amazon, or even your local hardware store for that matter. &nbsp;This update has a slightly longer base, so all the mid sections are a little longer. Ends/gears all stay the same. It&#39;s been working well for sleeve and unsleeved cards for me, in the Skip-bo to regular playing card size. Should be able to handle things like MTG and your other beloved sleeved card games. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_250e879bcf392.png"></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2rctBx6R20"></oembed></figure>I haven&#39;t been to keen on the card shufflers available commercially, and feel most of the ones designed for 3d printing don&#39;t really elevate themselves to a consumer level product. Thus, this card shuffler was born. I wanted something stylistic, and not just functional. Inspired by old printing presses, with those cast iron frames. Although, it looks a bit like a boiler too, I&#39;d say.&nbsp;Sized for standard playing cards. (64x89mm + plus sleeves, or there abouts, is the max size card it&#39;ll shuffle). I sized it to be able to shuffle a full skip-bo deck, which is 160 cards. It can do about 80 sleeved cards, in testing. Might have to make an extra tall version for bigger decks and big sleeved decks! &nbsp;It&#39;s been running smoothly for me, especially since upgrading to O-rings. The grip on them is much better than the original TPU rollers. There are occasional jams that happen, when the cards don&#39;t fall right. I think as long as you aren&#39;t going too slow and keep a good pace, usually it&#39;s fine. Sometimes it helps to shift the whole thing back and fort slightly to shake the cards loose and get them to settle. &nbsp;[Hardware Required]&nbsp;Featured FilamentsBambu PLA Metallic Iron GrayBambu PLA Metallic Copper BrownBambu PETG-CF Brick Red&nbsp;Bambu PLA Galaxy NebulaBambu PLA Glow GreenBambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown&nbsp;Bambu Matte Grass GreenBambu Marine BlueBambu Lemon Yellow&nbsp;Notes about PrintingAs Noted, you&#39;ll want TPU for the pads. At least that&#39;s what I designed and set them up for. I also set them up to use fuzzy skin, to hopefully give a little more texture to grab onto the cards. &nbsp;I highly recommend using a smooth PEI bed. (It&#39;s not required, and you can absolutely print the whole thing on your bed of choice. I just highly recommend the Smooth PEI bed for PLA because it holds well, and for smaller parts with a thin profile on the bed, it tends to hold much better. Like the spacers I use in step 4.)&nbsp;Hardware Required :36x M2.6x8mm Self Tapping Screws (Bambu&#39;s BT2.6x8mm self tapping screws) (From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/self-tapping-screws/products/bt2-6-socket-head-cap-self-tapping-screw-shcs" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)9x MR128 Ball Bearings (inner = 8mm, outer 12mm, height = 3.5mm, such as <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-MR128-2RS-Groove-Bearings-Double/dp/B082PPLHLQ" rel="nofollow noopener">this one from Amazon</a>, or from the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/steel-deep-groove-ball-bearings?variant=42104893243528" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US store</a>)4 O-Rings OD 24x2.5mm  ( From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/makers-supply/products/o-rings?variant=42561621753992" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)&nbsp;[Upgrading from the TPU Roller version]<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 51.3%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_ca78189d57b3b.png"></figure>If you&#39;ve already printed the card shuffler, but want to upgrade, please refer to the above graphic for the parts you&#39;ll need to reprint. Make sure you print 2 of the axels, pad drums, and the card holder/bracket. In addition you&#39;ll need two extra screws to secure the drums to the axels, and the 4 O-rings. &nbsp;If all you want to do is upgrade the pad drums, then you should be able to slide them on the original axles, however be aware that they aren&#39;t secured with friction like the TPU pads were, so you might need to glue them or use some other method to fix them once installed, if the fit is too loose. The new axels are slightly longer, but also have a hole for a self tapping screw to tap into. &nbsp;&nbsp;[Assembly]<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_2b08e90375684.png"></figure>Step1: Screw the end plates on. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_1adb06ad5af73.png"></figure>Step2: Assemble the two side card holders, then slot them in and screw them into the main body. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_b1c84149db724.png"></figure>Step3: <ul><li>Install the o-rings onto the two drums.</li><li>Install the bearing on the end of the shaft and then screw the end cap into place to keep it secure. </li><li>Insert the drum into place, and then insert the shaft through the drum and the main body. Install the set screw to set the drum into place.</li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little of bearings bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_425faf6ab974b.png"></figure>Step4: <ul><li>Insert the bearings onto the shafts, followed by the spacer and then the gear. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.</li><li>Make sure the gears are orientated right. The Arrow pattern on the gear should point in the direction of travel. Inward! </li><li>Screw the gears into place. </li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little if gears bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_d5066862b49a4.png"></figure>Step5:<ul><li>The Tricky part</li><li>For each gear there is a gear peg and the bearing. Insert the bearing into the end plate, and insert the gear peg into the gear. Make sure the gears are fully seated.</li><li>I insert the small gear and then the large one. With the large one I try and angle it in a little, and use a little force to jam it into place. </li><li>You&#39;ll want to try and rotate the pads so the flat ends are opposite each other before installing the large gear. </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-16_928514e5c2088.png"></figure>Step6: Insert the bearings into the gear bracket and make sure they are fully seated. Screw the bracket into place. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-16_5e459d17a32f3.png"></figure>Step7: <ul><li>Insert the bearing into the crank arm, and then sandwich it between the peg and knob, and secure it with a screw. </li><li>Screw the crank arm onto the large gear&#39;s shaft with an end cap to help keep it secured. </li><li>Shuffle some cards! </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_9c88d6ec0f9ee.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_c4986513a4b3f.png"></figure>&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information. on.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Card Shuffler

card shuffler

martenh

I wasn&#39;t happy with the current alternatives for labelling cables, and many were not suited for ethernet cables. I also wanted something which could be easily removed, or re-labelled.&nbsp;This design is suited for a ~6mm ethernet cable and has several useful features<ul><li>Clip<ul><li>Snaps on with ease (you can even do it one-handed) but still stays in place and leave no marks.</li><li>Can be easily removed, if you want to replace the cable.</li></ul></li><li>Label<ul><li>The label itself is simple and easy to replace, making updates and reorganizations a breeze.</li><li>It snaps into place so there is no risk of them falling of if mounted horizontally.</li><li>Available with printed text (plate 2)*, or blank (plate 1) if you prefer to use a pen.</li><li>Alternatively you can tape/glue the label to an object and use it to hold the cable in place but still make it easy to remove it.</li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_29eeb40dcdd48.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_0cd69216a234e.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_2e693fa6c8fc3.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 74.67%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_11f6ae214c76a.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>*Description for changing the text<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Select the label on plate 2</td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 59.42%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_fee4f245a883b.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Click “Objects” and select “BathroomText”</td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 62.51%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_7e0c21c5e9fa1.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Click on the text tool and change the text to you liking</td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 55.95%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_ef3f646315eda.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>You may want to flip the camera to below to see the text as it prints on the bottom</td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.02%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475787/design/2024-05-26_c75b686d3bbfe.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>If the text doesn&#39;t fit decrease the font size or use the profile with larger labels</td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;Don&#39;t forget to check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@martenh" rel="nofollow noopener">my other designs</a>!

Cable clip (with label) for network ethernet cable

cord label 6mm

3D anarchy

Fully printable Vise with changable jaws&nbsp;!!! ADDED Profiles : horizontal and vertical jaws for TUBE !!!&nbsp;use screwdriver HEX 4mm&nbsp;Hobby tool

Table Vise - fully printable with changable jaws

table vice

ccusagi

You know when the mechanism in your screwdriver box breaks and closing it becomes pure hell?? Same!&nbsp;So here is version 2 of an alternative organizer with extra slots for bits and small bowls for the screws as you're tinkering away.  What differs from the photo is that I opened up the locking slots in the back instead of cutting them open, added a small flap for easier opening, as well as additional slots for extra bits. &nbsp;I printed the lid on the side, with supports and brims.

Precision Screwdriver 42 bits + storage

4mm case for driver and bits

Scubafan

My last clock design was a little bit overkill. Here is a much simpler design. It saves time, material and you don&#39;t need screws to assemble the clock. All you need to buy is the right clockwork&nbsp;Choose one of the 4 print profiles. The only difference is the time ring.The selected colors are only a suggestion, pick any color you want.&nbsp;That is the clockwork I used.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/837311/2023-12-27_5df50c2cffcd6.jpg">You find the clockwork on Amazon or Aliexpress&nbsp;Aliexpress: <a target="_blank" href="http://tinyurl.com/ypev4ze7" rel="nofollow noopener">http://tinyurl.com/ypev4ze7</a>

Harley Davidson Logo Clock

harley clock

B-Lab 3D

Un ottimo regalo per gli amici, parenti e non solo ❤️Apri il disegno <a target="_blank" href="https://www.autodesk.it/products/fusion-360/overview?term=1-YEAR&tab=subscription" rel="nofollow noopener">Fusion 360</a> e personalizza la tua sveglia da capo, ci sono migliaia di idee con cui puoi farlo!Stampa le lancette del colore e della lunghezza che più si addicono al tuo nuovo modello, da usare solo la lancetta dei secondi se acquisti il meccanismo qui : <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0949B4XV1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">LINK AMAZON</a>Per festeggiare il nuovo Maker World ho disegnato questa in 5 minuti! Buon divertimento e una grande stampa per te 🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀&nbsp;Se vuoi il modello esclusivo realizzato per Bambu Lab: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/134036#profileId-145476" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab Clock - version hardware 011 only by B-Lab 3D - MakerWorld</a>

Bambu Lab Clock

bambu clock

Crashkg

This allows you to hang your hexbits flush against the OmniWall taking up very little space. Print all 3 pieces and then glue the 2 hooks on using little pieces of filament to guide the hooks into place.

Hex bit holder for OmniWall

hex bit flush wall mount

Karel J.

Small a swivel screwdriver for long bits (HEX depth 25mm)For small bits use the attachment !!!The handle is spinning for more comfort at work<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000461723/design/2024-05-12_b200289d5ed108.gif">&nbsp;

small a swivel screwdriver for long bits

6mm  hex "star" bit holder

francis.beland

This screwdriver allows to switch to any short and long bits. The hollow handle allows to store spare bits free and/or in the 4 bits holder integrated in the handle screw. Since the screwdriver body is long and slim, it&#39;s recommended to slow down the print speed to prevent bed adhesion problems.

Screwdriver with bit holder

hex bit long handle

maxv

A hex bit holder with 95 holes. Can be screwed to a wall &amp; also the mounting holes align with the holes of a pegboard with 25mm hole spacing.&nbsp;See also a smaller version with 65 holes - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/436028#profileId-341129" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/436028#profileId-341129</a>and a 4mm Hex Bit Holder - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/452888#profileId-360160" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/452888#profileId-360160</a>

Hex Bit Holder for 95 Bits

95 hole hex bit holder

Jakokln

Gridfinity 4mm driver bit holder. This model is a 2X1 Gridfinity base, that holds 30 bits, in a 6X5 bit configuration. I designed this to be as compact as possible, cramming as many bits into a 2X1 square that I could. Bits lay at a slight angle for a nice presentation, and to help keep them in place, yet easy to access. Though compact, grabbing a bit I find still very easy. I simply get part of my finger under the tip of the bit, tip it upwards slightly, and then pinch it and slide it out.&nbsp;Features standard Gridfinity layout, with 6mm magnet holes. No screw holes though.&nbsp;This wasn't designed for any specific kit of bits, though it will hold any standard 4mm driver bit just fine.&nbsp;I printed 0.2mm layer height, Gridfinity side down, no support needed.&nbsp;Looking to store those big hex nut drivers too? Check out my other bit holder with larger bit storage: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/91493" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/91493</a>

Gridfinity 4mm Compact Bit Holder

4mm hex bit holder

BaGooN

This is a compact heat insert press that utilizes the affordable and readily available 150mm linear rail with MGN7H block. Instead of the adopted used return with a counterweight found in many designs, a printed spring takes its place, contributing to the reduction of parts count and simplification of assembly.&nbsp;Notes:<ul><li>The first step is to print test pieces to confirm compatibility with your soldering iron.</li><li>The spring is PETG, while the HolderArm, which comes in contact with the soldering iron, can be printed in PETG, ABS, or ASA. Other parts can be printed in PLA.</li><li>Springs should be printed with 100% fill rate.</li><li>I anticipate the use of soldering irons with a handle diameter of around 20mm. Please verify compatibility with your soldering iron using the test parts. Additionally, customization for your specific soldering iron can be achieved using the step file.</li><li>Precision relies on minimizing the play of the nut bar. Please start by printing Body.stl and then try Nutbar_Tolerance_Test to select the tolerance for printing the nut bar.</li><li>Special thanks to TheSnootch and Pluck3r!</li></ul>Required other than printed parts:  <figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/a85bfc04-623d-4d7d-af4c-10e6a6bd23b9.webp"></figure><ul><li>1x Soldering iron</li><li>1x 150mm rail with mgn7h block</li><li>7x M3x5x4mm heat-set Inserts </li><li>6x M2 nuts</li><li>10x M2x6mm screws</li><li>1x M3x6mm screw</li><li>4x M3x10mm screws</li><li>2x M3x12mm screws</li><li>3x zip ties</li></ul>Assembly:  0. Print a total of 6 parts ‘Body’, &#39;HolderArm&#39;, ‘NutBar’, ‘Top’ and 2x&#39;Spring&#39;.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/6fb76f40-7e38-4db4-9dff-67105dfb6c99.webp"></figure> 1. Installing M3x5x4mm heat-set Inserts on HolderArm at 4 points<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/b34a32e0-5a33-4cca-b2b1-8879d72a6f6d.webp"></figure> 2. Installing M3x5x4mm heat-set Inserts on Body at 3 points<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/622988ca-8ae3-456e-920b-548cf4fd27a4.webp"></figure> 3.  Installing M2 nuts on NutBar at 6points. Push the nut all the way in, otherwise the screw won&#39;t reach when installing the rail.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/ba52bad5-5bc3-4759-a707-7413cc95354c.webp"></figure> 4. Insert the NutBar into the body and secure the top part with M3x6mm screws.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/2309f20f-c6cd-40d1-9fb1-cc7bdebfac41.webp"></figure> 5. Secure the linear rail to the NutBar with M2x6mm screws at 6 points.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/a97e8850-24ca-4490-aa4d-3fab3939ed45.webp"></figure>  6. Secure the HolderArm to the linear guide block with M2x6mm screws at 4 points.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/ee26727d-711f-4417-a61b-fbc4e6d9575a.webp"></figure> 7. Attach two springs using M3x10mm screws, being careful not to tighten the screws too much. The springs need to have enough space to rotate freely. be careful not to remove the top part while the springs are attached, as the linear guide block pop out.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/873a125c-4cd6-405f-9cbf-410170eff1be.webp"></figure> 8. Secure the soldering iron to the holder using M3x12 screws.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/4cdfac51-4b17-4c04-bbae-c3dae09fc214.webp"></figure> 9. Hold the wire in place with zip ties at three points to prevent it from protruding out .<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 357px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000468455/design/dc417f9c-e6f9-4a02-9f0b-575b3512605c.jpg"></figure>

Heat Insert Press

heat insert press

Fyrby Additive

V-Spooler

v-spooler

Tomha

Easy cleaner for leadscrews. Print 3 of these, home your bed add some paper towel at the base and clip in place.jog bed at the bottom and all leadscrews are clean at once.(run 2-3 times)&nbsp;

Easy leadscrew cleaner

lead screw cleaners

Magic Studio 3D

"Bambu Lab Logo Keychain" 🎋🔑&nbsp;Stay organized in style with this keychain featuring the distinctive Bambu Lab logo. This compact accessory is the perfect choice for supporters of the brand and those who appreciate creative design.

Keychain Bambu Lab

key chain

ByteSlinger

Y-Splitter for Bambu printers, and any other need for a PTFE Y-Splitter!<ul><li>Highly Optimized to work well, I've printed many hundreds of hours with mine fitted, including prints with hundreds (if not thousands) of filament changes each, and never had one problem.</li><li>Threaded for PC4-M10 PTFE Fittings</li></ul>&nbsp;Please Note: Whilst it is possible to print faster (using thicker layer lines or faster print speeds, as per the un-official print profiles), this can and likely will affect performance as it'll affect how smooth the print and the surfaces are inside the filament guides. Please print with the profiles I supplied (Marked, ‘Designer’), I've heavily tested my profiles and can't guarantee that other profiles will perform as I've described.&nbsp;What does it do?Allows you to connect 2 sources of filament (eg AMS and external spool) without needing to swap over PTFE tubes each time you switch between them.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/425825/2023-12-20_7204c17ade4a1.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Why this one?I had tried a number of the popular options around, but found I was often getting filament caught inside it or jammed and it was never something I could rely on to run my AMS through due to the frequent filament changes. This has taken weeks to refine, and have gone through multiple printed revisions, each one undergoing testing and further refinement and I finally landed on this one. I've done a number of tests and have printed several prints with this connected, each with 50-100 filament changes with zero problems.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I use it?The splitter has an IN end and an OUT end. The IN end has two holes, they are both the same and you can run any filament source into either.The OUT end has just one hole and that should lead to your printer.&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:54.89%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/425825/2023-12-20_4a06552709c68.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Each hole is threaded to take a PC4-M10 PTFE pneumatic mount (the push clips that PTFE tubes slot into).If you need to buy more, <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/485ed5s" rel="nofollow noopener">these are high qualty reliable PC4-M10s</a>.&nbsp;Once your PC4-M10's are screwed in, slot in your PTFE tubes. The PTFE tubes going into the two IN holes you can push in pretty much as far as you want too (I'd advise not as far as they'll go but maybe 2-3mm before that).&nbsp;The PTFE tube going into the OUT hole however is important that you push that all the way in.As you can see below, a special recess has been designed for the PTFE tube to slot into and it needs to push all the way down into this hole to ensure the inner diameter lines up with the feed hole for the filament. It's also important to make sure your PTFE tube are cut neatly and straight.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/425825/2023-12-20_433cca5fe97d7.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Mounting You have three options for mounting. I've designed and included two mounts specifically for the Easy Split (detailed below), but you can also just leave it free. I personally have mine connected up and it needs no mount (as pictured), but it depends how and where you'll want to use yours.<ul><li>Fixed Mount: The Easy Split slots onto this mount and it holds it in a single position.</li><li>Swivel / Rotate Mount: The Easy Split slots onto this mount and it allows free rotation whilst fitted. It can be good if you'll want to swing it depending on if you're connecting your external source or not.</li></ul>Both versions are available with holes cut for 8x3 magnets, or 10x2 magnets.&nbsp;I've included a profile which contains all 4 mounts, with each one on it's own plate, so you can just print the one you want from that (or via the included STLs). Print Settings I highly recommend printing from the official profile included above as there has been a lot of tweaks made to ensure this performs correctly. If you want to slice it yourself though, here's the core settings:<ul><li>Layer Height: 0.08mm</li><li>Wall Loops: 4</li><li>Infill: 15% Gyroid</li><li>Outer Wall Speed: 45-100mm/s</li><li>Material: PLA</li></ul>&nbsp;Tips<ul><li>Ensure your PTFE tubes are cut cleanly and straight</li><li>Print using my profiles (Marked with the ‘Designer’ tag) which I've printed, altered and optimized many times, and heavily tested, to ensure it functions as designe .</li><li>Although I have included a profile I've optimized for PETG, I'd advise printing in PLA. PLA has zero performance issues for this item and due to the artifacting that some people experience when printing with PETG, PLA will often perform better in this specific case.</li><li>The mounts are only optional and should only be used if you need it fitted in a suitable place. I personally have it hanging free (as pictured)</li><li>Whilst adhesion shouldn't be a problem with this design, 2 of the 1200 people who have downloaded the primary profile have mentioned they've experienced adhesion issues, so I've added an additional profile which should help aleviate these issues. I'd suggest trying the main profile ("Highly Optimized (PLA)") first though.</li></ul>

Easy Split - PTFE Y-Splitter

dual splitter

Marco Tiburtini

Hello guys,&nbsp;this project was created to keep the printer in a small space (bookshelf, for example).I designed a single system that takes up very little space and allows you to:&nbsp;<ul><li>move the AMS buffer to the side (reducing bends and cm of pipe);</li><li>integrate the splitter with a simple 90 degree bend;</li><li>include an arm that holds the external spool holder;</li><li>integrate entrance for the outer material;</li><li>make sure that the spool of external material can be inserted even though there is only 10 cm of space on the side;</li><li>and much more, beacause the system is fully expansible.</li></ul>&nbsp;Before starting with the project there are 3 important things you need to remember:<ul><li>this system integrates a support to connect an iconic splitter designed of another creator. You can still connect the splitter you want via the extra holes but, trust me, you should print this: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/it/models/18174#profileId-17021" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/it/models/18174#profileId-17021</a></li><li>I recommend you use theONE Roller instead of the original holder. Here you can find the link: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/it/models/110455#profileId-118082" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/it/models/110455#profileId-118082</a></li><li>please be careful: many of the pieces are large and must be printed without the auxiliary fan to avoid warping!</li></ul>&nbsp;I've been testing the system for 3 months (with excellent incredible results). During this trial period, everything went perfectly. Everything runs smooth, never jams nor has any kind of problems.&nbsp;Now I wanna give you a guide to assemble the system (you can find all the materials you will need on the slide 7):<ul><li>first, after having printed everything, you will have to insert 5 nuts into the appropriate holes provided in the 2 arms. Use tweezers, heat the nuts and insert them until the end (be careful). I also add a little drop of epoxy glue in the holes to fix everything.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_0a587f1f6ce1a.jpg"></figure><ul><li>insert the arms into the appropriate spaces on the base and secure them with 5 screws (20mm);</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_a69431cac0862.jpg"></figure><ul><li>screw the PTFE connector on the smaller arm;</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_28d0391e49a76.jpg"></figure><ul><li>connect the base with the back of the printer with 4 screws (16mm). 1 on the top and 3 on the bottom.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_753e2564e1bac.jpg"></figure><ul><li>fix the support for the splitter or the button (depending on which one you decide to use) with a 20mm screw;</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_b6f7efe4d9b84.jpg"></figure><ul><li>prepare two PTFE tubes. One of 23.7mm (from buffer to splitter) and the other of 17.2mm (from small arm to splitter);</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_dee108d031ba9.jpg"></figure><ul><li>fix the buffer and connect the tubes to the splitter.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-27_dab14b727c7b9.jpg"></figure><ul><li>now, if you decide to use the original holder, you should mount it in the support, insert the nuts and secure holder and support with m3 screws (8 mm); remember to look at the ONE ROLLER, it will be much more efficient than the standard holder.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-28_99464ff023127.jpg"></figure><ul><li>this will be the result:</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-28_34e3fc8d5219f.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/476445/2023-12-28_221478e99474f.jpg"></figure>

theONE system - one system, all the solutions. External spool, filament guide, left side buffer/hub.

side mount reel

cartyski

Lift off even the heaviest of prints, as shown, with the crowbar scraper.