vmy222ghp8

Clucky

Please do not sell my designs. Yes, I check Etsy, and yes, I will report your account.&nbsp;This is a minature Stanley drink cup decoration that I made in Fusion 360. I didn't think it needed to be stated, but do not use this to drink out of, it is a decoration. The top of the cup screws on and off and you can put some candy or money inside for a nice christmas stocking stuffer or hang it from a tree as a christmas ornament. I have made the model into three different parts, the cup, the lid, and the top colored part of the lid. All pieces of this cup need support to print nicely. The lid can be printed without supports, but it looks much nicer with, and the cup lettering does not need supports, only the handle. I have made hollow versions with and without the Stanley logo and also solid versions with and without a logo if you prefer a solid one color cup. &nbsp;If you like this, please be sure to check out my keychain version of this here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/78542#profileId-82789" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/78542#profileId-82789</a>&nbsp;Please do not sell my designs.

Mini Stanley Drink Cup Decoration

Christmas 

lewistodd

Corner brackets of various angles made originally as corner supports, 85,90,95 degree options.

Corner brackets with three angles

shelf

GlennovitS 3D

<figure class="table"><table style="border:1px double rgb(179, 179, 179);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:4px solid hsl(90, 75%, 60%);padding:0.4em;">😄 Welcome to GlennovitS3D. Join the Club on Printables.com to support creation of new models, get access to exclusive models, and get commercial rights, to sell prints of my models. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">Join today - GlennovitS3D</a> - or check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@GlennovitS3D" rel="nofollow noopener">model collection</a> 🗂️</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>This is a quick and practical print you will actually use! A small and compact bit-driver that stores 3 extra bits. Fits easily in the pocket and great to bring with your most used bits.If you want to, you can print multiple versions and colorcode them with different types of bits in each one!<h2>Overview 🔍</h2><figure class="image image-style-side"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000417208/design/2024-04-07_0686d33edd6ca8.jpeg"></figure>The bitdriver is made to use 1/4&#34; (6.35 mm) Hex driver bits. It comes with different versions for you to choose from.The handle comes in 2 sizes, based on the length of bits it can store:<ul><li>Short - for 25 mm bits</li><li>Long - for 50 mm bits</li></ul>The base (bottom of the handle) comes with different screw-types on the bottom:<ul><li>Blank (no icon)</li><li>Flathead</li><li>Philips (PH)</li><li>Pozidrive (PZ)</li><li>Torx (TX)</li><li>Hex</li><li>Square</li></ul>To print the screw-type and not just a single color base, see instructions below<h2>Multicolor prints 🖌️</h2>This is optional - but looks nice and help you take the right one in first try. You can do like this (in Bambu Studio):<ol><li>Insert the Base/Handle you want</li><li>Right click on the model and click on Split &gt; To parts</li><li>In the left pane Process click on Objects</li><li>Select individual parts of the base/handle and choose filament for each.</li></ol><h2>Assembly 🛠️</h2>This one is easy - print a handle and a base and screw them together!Optional: A magnet with diameter of 5 or 6 mm, can be glued in the handle below the bit. Not necesary, as the fit should be fairly tight.<h2>Print instructions 🖨️</h2><figure class="image image-style-side"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000417208/design/2024-04-12_709bda52c931f8.jpeg"></figure>To make these strong enough for practical use, consider stronger-than-average print settings. Suggestions:<ul><li>Walls/perimeters: 3-5 - the more walls, the stronger - so test and see what you find the best.</li><li>Infill: 20-40% - the more infil, the stronger it will be.</li><li>Supports: No - the print-in-place hinge prints without supports!</li></ul><h2>Need extra bit-storage? ❇️</h2>Also check out my new Compact Bit Box - to match your new DIY tool kit! <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/424726#profileId-328159" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/424726#profileId-328159</a><figure class="table" style="height:0px;width:0px;"><table style="border:4px solid hsl(90, 75%, 60%);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">More practical prints? I got you covered! Check out this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@GlennovitS3D/collections/85011" rel="nofollow noopener">collection of practical models</a> - everything from tools to storage solutions. Or maybe see this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@GlennovitS3D/collections/1221351" rel="nofollow noopener">collection of tool models </a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h2>Filament 🧵</h2>I printed these in filament sponsored by FormFutura - and they work great! To be sturdy enough for practical use I used their Tough PLA mostly - and their Easyfill PLA for color organizing. If interested, check out their products here:- Tough PLA (aff): <a target="_blank" href="https://formfutura.com/product/tough-pla/?aff=11" rel="nofollow noopener">https://formfutura.com/product/tough-pla/?aff=11</a>- Easyfil PLA (aff): <a target="_blank" href="https://formfutura.com/product/easyfil-pla/?aff=11" rel="nofollow noopener">https://formfutura.com/product/easyfil-pla/?aff=11</a><h2>Want to show your support?</h2>You can see ALL my designs on Printables - and you can become an active supporter. I would really appreciate it!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join</a>&nbsp;Happy printing!

Compact Bit Driver (pocket size screwdriver)

camping

Schidter

I hope you enjoy the model I've had fun tinkering with. Please see some notes below which might improve your experience:&nbsp;No outside materials required! Rubber bands and glue are totally optional.&nbsp;When removing the card from the bed, do so gently or the connections may break.&nbsp;If the plane doesn't behave the way you want it to, bend the foils. For my prints, bending the foils on the rear wing downward made it fly nice and smoothly.

DIY Glider Kit Card - Flies Great!

plane glider

honcheng

The idea for this comes from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instructables.com/Spiral-Ramp-for-Wooden-Train-Tracks/" rel="nofollow noopener">spiral ramp for wooden train tracks by ucn</a>.&nbsp;I did not have the option of making wooden bases, so I recreated the same set with the measurement documented by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instructables.com/member/ucn/" rel="nofollow noopener">ucn on printables</a> so that they can be completely printed.&nbsp;Each tower is labelled L1 to L2, A to H.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/505610/2024-02-07_ee43e545bfb088.jpg">&nbsp;On top of each tower there's a little cylinder knob. The stackable tower has a cylinder hole that stacks on top of the cylinder knob. Theoretically you can keep stacking to make taller spiral, but I have not tried it, and not sure if it will be stable.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/505610/2024-02-07_ba5843e733565.jpg"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/505610/2024-02-07_ade71aac7ac0a8.jpg">&nbsp;You can refer to the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instructables.com/Spiral-Ramp-for-Wooden-Train-Tracks/" rel="nofollow noopener">original article by ucn</a> for layout instruction.You will need the following at least the following:&nbsp;2x L11x each L2 and L31x each A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H5x stackable tower&nbsp;I grouped towers A-H in a single plate because the file is clearer this way. You may or may not want to print them together or separately.

BRIO IKEA bridge support tower for spiral train tracks

train 

izboxo

Don't you hate mess on your table? This will solve one of your problems.&nbsp;MagSafe version. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/229007#profileId-246518" rel="nofollow noopener">Here</a>&nbsp;You can find supported watches inside print profiles.&nbsp;<img src="https://cezarsalat.eu/watch.gif"><img src="https://cezarsalat.eu/watch3.GIF"><img src="https://cezarsalat.eu/mount.GIF">-------------------------------------------What you will need.<ul><li>4x 3x25mm Screw</li><li>Or print Double sided tape mount. And use tape.</li><li>Basic skill in screwing</li></ul>-------------------------------------------&nbsp;

Table Watch Charger Holder

next build rando

Future_engineer

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>A wall-mountable key chain holder for those adventurous folks with a love for the jeep community. This organizer has two hooks and a D-ring shackle to hold a variety of items. The number and position of hooks and rings is up to you!This model was originally set to be done in all-metal using an end mill but as a test, I printed it first.Enjoy!</div><h1>Print Settings</h1>Printer Brand: <div>Creality</div> <pre><code> Printer: <div>Ender 3 Pro</div></code></pre> Rafts: <div>No</div> <pre><code> Supports: <div>Yes</div></code></pre> Resolution: <div>0.2</div> <pre><code> Infill: <div>15%</div></code></pre> Filament: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"> Hatchbox PLA </a><pre><code> Silver, Red, Black Notes: <div>For Base Plate (eoxpqv7z) Print was paused using Cura's 'At layer pause' to swap from silver to black.</code></pre>Print 2x: Brace HooksSupports used on D-Ring(Model2) hook and silver hooks.Part scaling in Cura (due to working in inches) Base Plate (eoxpqv7z) : 1750% Brace: 1750% Hooks: 75% D Ring (Model2): 2500%<h1>Post-Printing</h1>Metal Rod <div>Cut metal rod of diameter 3/8" (Steel or aluminum work fine, if not you could print one) to approx. 4-1/4"</div></div>

Jeep Key Holder

powerwheel

maximilian.zupanic

use adaptive layers.easy to print and assemble

Volk Racing TE37

tires

3D Print Masters Hub

Measuring Cup Set-Great measuring cup set!-Easy print, designed this way to avoid print supports 👍🏻-Tie together thru hole in handle.-Please like and subscribe! More to come!-See bio for more exclusive print project ideas.🔥🔥 Check out my PRO MODELS HERE! <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models</a> 🔥🔥

Measuring Cup Set

Measuring cups Kitchen

Mister.D

&nbsp;A set of dual color boxes for your workspace. 3 different sizes, all of them with lid. The print profiles are ready for AMS users but you can change the colors easy as you like. I personally like PLA marble in combination with dark filament on the base. This Model is for personal use only (non-commercial). DO NOT redistribute the files to anyone else.&nbsp;Those who are interested in product design, prototyping, product presentation and much more could contact me; my bio contains the contact details. Also, those who want to support my work, there is a link to do it:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/iammister.d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/iammister.d</a>&nbsp;Have a good day, MR.D

Organizer Box (set) / v2

storage

dfreshkremer

Check out my profile and print VERSION 3 of these mini-screw drivers.  It is a much better model with better tolerances! &nbsp;These are mini screw drivers that are perfect for stocking stuffers! Would be good to keep in a car or kitchen junk drawer when in a pinch.I printed these in PLA.&nbsp;My machine (Bambu P1P) is really dialed in, and I have the perfect snug fit for the bits. However, if yours is too tight, you can scale it up by 1-2%. If you print these in PETG, you may also need to scale it by 1-2%, because PETG shrinks more than PLA.&nbsp;I printed these at either layer height of 0.1 or 0.15. I have not tested 0.2. With the small threads, the smaller layer height is better!&nbsp;The threads are tight at first but will loosen up and work perfectly after you use them a dozen times. I usually just open and close the cap 20x right after printing and then they work well.

Mini Screwdrivers

tools

ntalekt

There are many game console controller models available. I wanted a horizontal stand that could fit easily into a drawer, but also fit multiple controllers. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2705722188/draft/2023-09-25_6rlhhpkr431e.jpg"></figure>I remixed <a href="https://www.printables.com/@io_roboto_42441" rel="nofollow">io_roboto</a>'s original controller stand using Fusion 360 to fit 4 controllers and it's working great!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2705722188/draft/2023-09-25_d49w68o5gw51.png"></figure>Links (some affiliate):<ul><li>Bambu Lab P1P: <a href="https://bambulab.com/en/p1?product=p1p" rel="nofollow">Link</a></li><li>PEO Build Plate: <a href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFjXc47" rel="nofollow">Link</a></li><li>Amolen PLA Filament<ul><li>Marble White: <a href="https://amzn.to/4705HVv" rel="nofollow">Link</a></li></ul></li><li>Overture PLA Filament<ul><li>(Used) White: <a href="https://amzn.to/3rJmImF" rel="nofollow">Link</a></li><li>Rock White: <a href="https://amzn.to/3QeugYJ" rel="nofollow">Link</a></li><li>Rock Blue/Green: <a href="https://amzn.to/43KjGvN" rel="nofollow">Link</a></li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;

Xbox One / Series X|S Controller Stand

games

bennny

I threw this together because I couldn't find a good model that fit my 2018 Audi Q5. You shouldn't use this just because you don't want to wear a seatbelt. My car (and other Audi models) suffers from an issue where basically any weight in the passenger seat (like my iPhone) will set off the seatbelt alarm. &nbsp;I had no issue printing this in sport or ludicrous modes. Both came out just as agood as the normal speed prints. My test prints were done using Orange PolyMaker PLA Pro, which usually struggles more than Bambu Labs/Generic PLA at high speeds.&nbsp;Googling some pictures of other Audi car models seatbelts, this should work for most of their cars.&nbsp;If you have success with your Audi model, please comment so I can add your model to the list.&nbsp;Confirmed Audi Models:<ul><li>Audi Q5 2018</li><li>Audi Q7 2021</li></ul>

Audi Seatbelt Silencer

acevalsl

big vase decorative model.&nbsp;

Vase 

vase

Marcel_X

<h2>Summary</h2>Thanks to RaMarcus' channel (see link below), covering Oculus Go related stuff, I discovered that the Varta Powerpack 2600 is a nice add-on for the Go. Even though it's got the same capacity as the Go (2600mAh), it doesn't double the playtime. But it does add at least another hour (or maybe more) of VR experience. At least enough to kill a few more zombies :-)The battery can be bought at Amazon for instance. Search for "Varta Powerpack 2600". They are available in a few colours, but the grey one matches the colour of the Go quite well.The easiest way to attach it, is to loosen the headstrap a bit. Slide the strap in the holder and then slip the holder over the plastic arm.The holder has a tight fit. So if your print has a large "elephant foot" you can use a deburring tool or sandpaper to make the battery fit. There is a lip underneath the holder (see rendered image) that puts some pressure on the battery to prevent it from sliding out.If you have a different strap (like the Gear VR one) use the ClampNoStrap.STL. This one has a narrower clip and fits on the plastic arm.Review here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBIIFNMngVQ" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBIIFNMngVQ</a>Enjoy!<h2>Print Settings</h2>Rafts: No Supports: No&nbsp;Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 20% (but solid wil do as well)&nbsp; Filament: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&field-keywords=colorFabb+PLA%2FPHA" rel="nofollow noopener">colorFabb PLA/PHA </a>

Oculus Go Varta Powerpack holder

Wiseone

When you prototype electronic circuits, a breadboard is a good place to do this. For the circuit build, you need wire links, cut to length. It's important to keep the circuit wiring neat, to ensure that debugging is clear, so a range of wire link sizes is needed.&nbsp;This links tray helps to keep pre-cut wire links in a neat and organised fashion. Here is my 3D design.&nbsp;My print is made with eSUN PLA+ 1.75mm red filament, with 0.2mm layer height and 15% infill on a Bambu X1 Carbon printer. No supports required.&nbsp;I hope you can find this print useful, too.&nbsp;Remember to leave me some feedback or even a tip to keep me enthused to make more of these drawings.

Links Tray

laisch

This is a scaled flyable micro version of the ASW20 sailplane from Schleicher. The model was created to be lightweight and printable in normal PLA.Because of it's lightweight behaviour it's a little bit fiddly to get it together properly but it's still strong enouth to survive crashes. So please read the Instructions before you build it.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_7930ef971b4078.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_b32700811d73d.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Printing:</h3>Make sure you align the STL-Files flat with the build plate like in the pictures.&nbsp;The Fuselage and the Nose have to be printed in Vase Mode (0.12mm) for best quality and perfect stability. Make sure you geht your part cooling right otherwise the thin tail section won't print properly because of overheating. Turn Bottom Layers to 1 Layer.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_2xua1hjiurid.jpg"></figure>The Wing parts are printed in normal Mode with 0.12mm Layerheight. Make sure that the first layer prints in 0.2mm.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_9yaljcx3l44z.jpg"></figure>After printing carefully remove the wings from your print bed and make sure not to overbend them.&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3>Clean up the parts from any print defects<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_mmrpjuqrlmyo.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Testfit if the wings fit inside the fuselage. The reinforcement part of the wing should touch the fuselage. If not, just cut away the parts wich are too big.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_k461jxekhpvj.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_p3zauy5szoj1.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Wing not aligned with fuselage</td><td>Wing aligned with fuselage</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;When the testfit is ok, put some superglue onto the wings and glue them in place.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_v2l13jrwi32n.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_4dvxkmto8krd.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Make a testfit if the rudder fits in to the elevator. If not you can take a cutter knife to clean it up a little bit.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_hiskzgmshhkj.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;After that put the rudder and elevator together and secure them with some CA glue. Try to not use too much glue because of extra weight.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_c5669idp5zad.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Glueing the rudder/elevator assembly to the fuselage is the hardest part of the build. It works the best if you put one small drop onto the fuselage and temporary secure it. After that you can check the alignement and adjust it properly.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_sklgvblwtn24.jpg"></figure>If it looks fine, just secure the whole thing with more superglue.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_58pkfcwdk5pu.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;To make the whole thing fly you have to add weight to the nose and adjust the center of gravity. For me a 4,5mm steelball did the trick. You can temporary secure the nose to the rest of the plane with some tape and check it's flight properties.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_9hxutt2kk35r.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_ui9nlrtydip2.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;For checking the center of gravity you can balance it on two screws. The COG should be at ⅓ of the wing measured from the front.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_vbnmudk1iyhh.jpg"></figure>if it does'nt fly properly you can also try to give it a little bit of lift by bending the elevator up.&nbsp;If it flys, you now can finally glue the nose to the rest of the sailplane.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_jasr1r5920mo.jpg"></figure>Have Fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="width:92.21%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col><col></colgroup><thead><tr><th colspan="3">If you like this model you may have a look at my other flying toys too</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81500" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_bc748d83c35e18.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81500" rel="nofollow noopener">Geared Propeller Launcher</a></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76104" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_eadf473572ad4.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76104" rel="nofollow noopener">Flying Bat</a></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21091" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_a8fc21a53267c8.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21091" rel="nofollow noopener">Cross Bow</a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

ASW20 Sailplane (micro glider - flyable)

airplane 

suit1337

Since none of the original adapters fitted my needs, i designed my own.It has an adapter ring with 147,5 mm diameter <h4>Printing</h4>Just flat on the build plate, no supports needed<h4>Assembly</h4><ul><li>5 x M6 nut</li><li>5 x M6x16 Bolt (longer, if you have a thicker lid)</li><li>10 x M6 washer</li></ul>Drill holes, screw it on - you got this :)&nbsp;

Modular Hydroponic Tower Garden (5-fold Bucket Adapter 147,5 mm)

hydro

ScottyDev

This is a simple planter pot that I use for some indoor plants. This file I think looks best with the seams randomly generated with a cement-colored PLA. This file is pretty big at 180mm x 160mm so feel free to scale as needed. Pictured is one I did at 75%.

Plant Pot

planter

Geimfari

This is my first creation for Halloween, Just something simple to light up the dark. It is possible to print with minimum supports using supportblocker.<ul><li>08.09.2022 - Pumpkinwithoutface.stl </li><li>Added file without face if you want make your own design :) </li><li>08.09.2022 - Ghost.stl</li><li>Added a Ghost, you can print that without supports. </li><li>11.09.2022</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Pumpkin Halloween Tealight

Halloween 

Daranto

I designed a Chopstick Helper, because I didn't like the existing models. My design focuses on stability and should fit most chopsticks (see photos).The holes are angled slightly to make the chopsticks spread apart a bit at the bottom.Here are the print settings I used:Resolution: 0.2Perimeters: 14Filament material: PLA or PETG______________________________________________Changes in V2:Wall thickness at the holes increased for more stability.Changes in V3:Complete redesign to make it more flexible. Can be printed without support, if your printer is capable (see photo).&nbsp;

Chopstick Helper

rando

miak3D

Edit: As seen on <a href="https://www.tomshardware.com/news/raspberry-pi-smart-bird-feeder-identifies-feathered-dinner-guests" rel="nofollow">Tom's Hardware</a>!&nbsp;NOTE: I DID NOT CREATE ANY OF THESE PIECES OF SOFTWARE. Please use the accompanying GitHub's for issues. I offer NO support for the software. This is also a work in progress and may change.BirdBrain is a Smart Bird Feeder with species recognition. It leverages multiple open-source solutions together to detect birds and identify their species. Note that since i did not develop the software used in this project, things may change/break as the respective developers update their code.You need to print 1 of each part except the windows, you need 2 of these. The front plate is made specifically for <a href="https://www.pishop.us/product/raspberry-pi-camera-g-with-fisheye-lens/" rel="nofollow">this camera</a>, others may work but this is the one I had on hand so its sized to it. The following pieces of software are used in the project:<ul><li><a href="https://github.com/blakeblackshear/frigate" rel="nofollow">Frigate - Open-Source video NVR with object detection</a></li><li><a href="https://github.com/mmcc-xx/WhosAtMyFeeder" rel="nofollow">WhosAtMyFeeder - Species recognition from Frigate data</a></li><li><a href="https://github.com/bluenviron/mediamtx/" rel="nofollow">MediaMTX - Simple RTSP streaming server to stream to Frigate</a></li><li>Docker/Home Assistant</li><li>MQTT Server</li></ul>The following hardware is used in the project:<ul><li>Raspberry Pi, tested with a Pi 3B as its what i had on hand, may work with a Pi Zero W as well</li><li><a href="https://www.pishop.us/product/raspberry-pi-camera-g-with-fisheye-lens/" rel="nofollow">Raspberry Pi Camera with FishEye lens</a></li><li>Power Source - I have power near the bird feeder so I'm using a standard AC adapter. The original model does have parts for a solar panel mounted on the roof. I did not test it so i do not know if it works or not nor do i know if the panel itself can be sourced locally for you. I have included the files for the solar roof and <a href="https://www.fruugoschweiz.com/35w-usb-solar-panel-digital-ladegerat-fur-mobile/p-88157157-183939064?language=de&ac=bing&msclkid=8a319213ee5a1f8c2379f0fd8141d564&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=All_190785_CH&utm_term=4575274048654658&utm_content=Ad%20group%20%231" rel="nofollow">here</a> is the link for the panel it was modeled around. The original model also used a <a href="https://uk.pi-supply.com/products/pijuice-zero?_pos=1&_sid=bd8682207&_ss=r" rel="nofollow">pi hat</a> and a <a href="https://uk.pi-supply.com/products/pijuice-zero-1200mah-battery?_pos=2&_sid=d94484a36&_ss=r" rel="nofollow">battery</a> but the parts were not readily available here in the USA so i also did not test them. </li><li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B778J37S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share" rel="nofollow">Cover for the lens</a></li></ul>Note: the box for the pi doesn't really have a lot of room in it so i soldered the power adapter to the GPIO pins. If you use a pi hat and a battery then you should have ample room.Instructions: These instructions assume you know that standard process for getting an OS running on a Pi and updating/installing softwareRaspberry Pi<ul><li>Install Raspberry Pi OS Lite for your Pi</li><li>Update installed packages</li><li>Install MediaMTX and configure it according to the GitHub page linked above, make sure to install the service and set it to run on startup - <a href="https://www.digikey.com/en/maker/projects/stream-live-video-over-rtsp-from-your-raspberry-pi/e7f81253dfd443838fca109f3c1e6c92" rel="nofollow">This</a> is a good step-by-step but you will need to update all references to rtsp-simple-server to mediamtx as they changed the name</li><li>Test the RTSP stream using VLC or similar app. </li><li>Install pi into pi-box and mount the camera into the front plate. </li><li>I placed one of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B778J37S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share" rel="nofollow">these</a> on the outside of the front plate and hot glued it in place to protect the lens/camera from the elements.</li></ul>WhosAtMyFeeder<ul><li>Install WhosAtMyFeeder in Docker or there is also a <a href="https://github.com/bertybuttface/addons" rel="nofollow">Home Assistant Add-On</a> for this that you could try running (it is brand new and may have issues)</li><li>Copy the frigate config, update the data to reflect your camera, mqtt server, hardware acceleration solution, detectors, etc. Place this config in your Frigate config directory in the next section</li><li>Update the WhosAtMyFeeder config with the required data</li></ul>Frigate<ul><li>On a separate device(docker, nas, homeassistant, other) install Frigate according to the GitHub linked above or the official <a href="https://docs.frigate.video/" rel="nofollow">documentation</a>. I would recommend you investigate the recommended hardware section of the documentation. I am personally using the TensorRT option as i have a Nvidia graphics card in my NAS that i use for processing, etc. CPU processing is NOT recommended. </li><li>Start Frigate (make sure you have completed the config step in the WhosAtMyFeeder section above before starting Frigate)</li><li>Verify that your camera is displaying in Frigate</li></ul>If all of your software is working as intended, assemble your new bird feeder and find an awesome place to mount it. I ended up having to glue the roof to the hanger because squirrels kept knocking it off my tree but if you do not need to do that you can use the holes in the back of the feeder for refilling/overfilling. There is an optional perch that can be glued onto the front of the feeder directly on the lip to hopefully allow birds to land on it for better identification of the birds prior to them eating the food. I used 3dGloop to attach the perch to the lip, you could also use it to attach the roof to the main body but then you do not get access to the pi box after assembly. Note: Im still testing different TensorRT yolo models to see what detects birds the best, my squirrels get detected as birds right now…&nbsp;The original project appears to be abandoned as there is not complete documentation, no updates in almost a year, etc. I have taken the original files, modified them for my specific use case and used multiple pieces of open-source software to make this project work for me.

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