TellementT

ideat0m

<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1897072971/collections" rel="nofollow noopener">More puzzle in my collections.</a> ---------------------------------------------------- Insertion puzzles allow children to develop their motor skills and orientation in the shapes of objects. Individual parts are inserted into their place in the picture. The parts fit together beautifully and simply. Can also be used as a decoration. Black eyes, White eyes, nose, etc.. parts just insert inside and secure with glue.Before use, I recommend that you check whether the printed object has sharp edges, or tear them off with the help of a knife for pulling the edges or with sandpaper <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1897072971" rel="nofollow noopener">You can find many more in my profile</a>**************************Vkládací puzzle umožňuje dětem rozvíjet jejich motoriku a orientaci v tvarech předmětů. Jednotlivé části se vkládají na své místo v obrázku. Díly do sebe krásně a jednoduše zapadají. Lze použít také jako dekoraci.Casti oci (cerne/bile) a cerny nos, usi vlozte do obliceje a zajistete lepidlem. Doporucuji pred pouzitim overit zda vytisteny objekt nema ostre hrany, tyto pak pripadne strhnout pomoci noze na stahovani hran pripadne smirkovym papirem <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1897072971" rel="nofollow noopener">Mnoho dalsich naleznete v mem profilu</a>

Hamster - puzzle for kids

Hannah

filete3d

Airless Tennis Ball 2.0, a complete redesign based on feedback received from more than 10,000 downloads of the previous model.&nbsp;Updates:Improved hex mesh density to add strength and functionality in a wider range of materials. General increase in thickness for a better feeling of weight and bounce. Polished seam line to achieve homogeneous bounce capacity throughout the entire ball and better aesthetic approximation.&nbsp;The conclusions on recommended materials show that to achieve impact resistance it must be printed on flexible materials with a certain level of hardness to keep bounciness.&nbsp;Recommended materials for bounciness aproach are TPU 98A and PLA Flex (as seen in gif from 3DJVModels, check his profile!). They are materials similar in their hardness, which provide a bounce distance of +-50% from the drop height, while the official bounce is 53-58%.TPU 95A resists impacts without breaking but has a bounce reduced to approximately 20% from drop height.&nbsp;Among flexible materials, TPU in its different hardness provides an incredible level of layer adhesion, which is why it achieves the highest tested impact resistance without cracks.&nbsp;PLA or PLA+ will work only for displaying purposes. We do not recommend using these materials if you want to make it bounce as it can break easily.&nbsp;Check my current state on airless balls:Airless Ping Pong, Table Tennis Ball: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386079#profileId-286461" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/386079#profileId-286461</a>Airless Baseball Wiffle Softball Ball v2.0: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/227359#profileId-244997" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/227359#profileId-244997</a>Airless Basket , Soccer, Voley or Handball Ball v1.2: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/223189#profileId-241192" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/223189#profileId-241192</a>Airless Golf Ball: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/383904#profileId-284030" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/383904#profileId-284030</a>&nbsp;

Airless Tennis Ball 2.0 Pickleball Wiffle

Majkl.k88

The famous mask from the game Borderlands 2- PsychoThe main mask piece can be printed with no support

Borderlands Psycho Mask

Stevie B

I’ve tried a few of these off Maker World, but none I tried went together nicely, printed easily without supports, or worked well enough for me, so I thought I’d design one to do just what I needed, and that was simple to print and assemble. The unit I came up with sits on top of your P1S where the glass would go - it adds 5cm or 2” of height and matches the case shape nicely. There’s a channel all the way around on the inside for LEDs, and it fits a really nice USB/COB strip I found on Amazon that provides a continuous, unbroken strip of light all the way around, so no need for a diffuser (and general illumination + timelapses are way better now). Only a minor positive, but the extra height also stops the printhead PTFE tube catching on the case side as well.&nbsp;You can keep your door shut all the time with the adjustable vent on the side too – it can be opened for lower-temperature materials like PLA, or closed to keep the heat in for ABS, nylon etc. I used magnets to lock the vent open or closed, but they turned out to be overkill as the vent slider lines up and operates perfectly anyway.&nbsp;To make it easy to print without support, there are no tricky overhangs and I designed the main body to print flat to the baseplate with clip-on strips that go underneath it to locate the unit/sit where the glass top used to be.&nbsp;The main body was obviously too big to print in one go, so I cut it into equal size quadrants and then used pegs to accurately locate all the pieces for gluing (actually I used some woodworking dowels as I have loads, but I&#39;ve included printable dowels too if you need to make some.)&nbsp;I believe the X1 and P1 series all have identical cases, so this should fit fine on all. Internal USB power isn&#39;t available on all models though, so you may need to drill a hole for an external power supply.&nbsp;It’ll need to cope with some heat when the vent is shut, so any material with a decent heat tolerance is advisable. The top of the chamber won&#39;t get quite as hot as the bed, but I figured if the bed&#39;s at 100C on a long print, it&#39;s gonna get pretty toasty up there, and there&#39;s a risk PLA could soften/deform as it fails around 55C. I never chanced it and went straight to ABS!&nbsp;So, here&#39;s what I used altogether:&nbsp;- About half a roll of ABS, check out the Bambu filament chart <a target="_blank" href="https://bambulab.com/en-gb/filament-guide" rel="nofollow noopener">here </a>to see other filaments &amp; their heat tolerances- (optional) 8 x standard woodworking dowels, 6 x 30mm long- (optional) Four circular magnets 10mm dia, 3mm deep- (optional) USB-powered LED strip – about 1.5m after trimming - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B24M5NYC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Here</a>’s the link to the one I used&nbsp;Construction1 - Take the four main pieces and glue them together making use of the dowels to help with alignment – I found it easiest to glue both left pieces together, both right pieces together, then glue the left half to the right half. Or you could do front then back, just so long as you have two halves to bring together.2 - Snap the four strips to the underside.3 - If you’re going to use magnets, fit two in the vent strip now and keep the polarity the same for each. There are two hidden ones in the case slot near the inside front too. For these, I made sure the south/north orientation was right first by snapping the magnet against the ones already in the vent strip, then attached them to a metal ruler and pushed them into the holes in the case slot.4 – Put the vent strip in its slot being sure to get the magnets towards the front if you fitted some. Push a dowel into the hole to act as the vent lever.5 - Fit the LEDs – the Bambu USB socket is at the front left behind the LCD, but I started from the front right corner because the USB lead was long enough to reach with the lead tucked neatly into the front inside lip.&nbsp;This was a fun project to design and use, hope others find it useful!&nbsp;Update:  I&#39;ve been using mine for a while now and it fits &amp; works great, but I&#39;ve also found that the backing on the self-adhesive LEDs I used tends to soften on very long/hot print jobs, causing the strip to sag or come away in places, so I&#39;ve now stuck mine in with CA.&nbsp;→ As another user commented, the unit does block access to the SD slot. I&#39;ve never needed to access mine, but worth pointing out in case it matters to you. ←&nbsp;PS - Thank you to anyone who has given me a boost: I make a lot of 3D stuff but much of it is for very custom DIY projects, jigs, hinges and pretty mundane things that probably aren&#39;t that useful. I&#39;m saving up my Maker Points for Bambu&#39;s maker kit though, so hopefully I can publish some new stuff that&#39;ll benefit from their easy-to-order motors, clocks and lights etc. Thanks for your help getting me there! :D

P1S Case riser, LED holder and Vent

Jérémy Marciacq

Hello!Here is my design of air filter/fume extractor for my enclosed or not printers!I designed it for these HEPA filters: <a href="https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33037955841.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27426c37H91RYB" rel="nofollow">https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33037955841.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27426c37H91RYB</a>And finally I decided to use a 120mm Noctua Fan (Noctua NF-F12 exactly). As the Noctua fans comes with a lot of accessory my design is made so that you'll only need the fan and the prints.You don't need to buy any screws!For powering the fan you only need to connect to the 12v of your printer. (If it's 24V you'll need to add a voltage regulator or you can use a 24v Noctua)The design is made so that you can let it stand next to your printer if it's not enclosed but in a small space (for example in a closet). In that configuration you'll need to print everything but the FAN DUCT without legs.stl. If you have an enclosed printer you can also make a 118mm diameter hole in the enclosure with 105mm spaced holes (dia 5mm) and crew the FAN DUCT to the Noctua fan with the enclosure wall in between.(In that configuration you'll need to print everything but LEGS.stl and FAN DUCT.stl)I DON'T REALLY KNOW IF IT'S VERY EFFICIENT TO CATCH AND FILTER ALL THE FUMES!Here is a demo on the filter functioning: <a href="https://imgur.com/vaQSHxt" rel="nofollow">https://imgur.com/vaQSHxt</a> But I hope it will make you feel more confortable with your printer!

HEPA + CHARCOAL FILTER / FUME EXTRACTOR - NOCTUA 120MM

vent

Pro3DTinkering

To support my projects and gain access to a Commercial License, please consider joining my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/Pro3DTinkering" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> community. Your support helps bring more creative designs and exclusive content to life!&nbsp;I&#39;m happy to introduce you Infinite Hexagon v2.0 | Triangles the redesigned version of my previous <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/69564#profileId-74882" rel="nofollow noopener">Infinite Hexagon</a> fidget. Thank you for your feedback which allowed me to make the model even better!&nbsp;Please check the assembly instructions on my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaSH712f_fI" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube channel</a> or in the video below:&nbsp;<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaSH712f_fI"></oembed></figure> Feel free to comment and share your prints; it&#39;ll be nice to see them. I would appreciate any feedback!&nbsp;Thank you,Happy Tinkering!

Infinite Hexagon v2.0 | Triangles

cool fidgets

martinMaker

You can print a fake monster for your office or living room! I recommend adding glue at each joint to solidify the whole structure.&nbsp;Assembly instructions: - Print the 7 monster leaf sheets, 3 of which are called &#34;stem 1&#34; and 2 are called &#34;stem 2&#34;. - Next, print &#34;pot&#34; and &#34;vase&#34;. - Interlock the stems onto the pot as shown in the image below.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/800326/2024-04-01_9072d9c12cab9.png"> - Insert the leaves into the slots as shown in the image below.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/800326/2024-04-01_a658f455e81f4.png"> - You can then interlock the pot into the vase.&nbsp;&nbsp;I suggest avoiding printing the stems on an A1 with a bed slinger.

3D Print Your Own Monstera plant

plant pots

OhSnap

This is a wire dispenser designed for thin wires >22AWG or threads for sewing. It's a fast and cheap print but you will need to use some CA (or other) glue to assemble the rollers.&nbsp;Original file was posted on printables and linked above. I have made minor changes.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Hannah

tpu

sky

AMS

vent

cool fidgets

plant pots

to lrint