超级小贵贵

Stevie B

I’ve tried a few of these off Maker World, but none I tried went together nicely, printed easily without supports, or worked well enough for me, so I thought I’d design my ideal one! The unit I came up with sits on top of your P1S where the glass would go - it adds 5cm or 2” of height and matches the case shape nicely. There’s a channel all the way around on the inside for LEDs, and it fits a really nice USB/COB strip I found on Amazon that provides a continuous, unbroken strip of light all the way around, so no need for a diffuser (and general illumination + timelapses are way better now). Only a minor positive, but the extra height also stops the printhead PTFE tube catching on the case side as well.&nbsp;You can keep your door shut all the time with the adjustable vent on the side too – it can be opened for lower-temperature materials like PLA, or closed to keep the heat in for ABS, nylon etc. I used magnets on the design, but they turned out to be overkill as the vent slider lines up and operates perfectly anyway.&nbsp;So it prints easily without support, there are no tricky overhangs and I designed the main body to print flat to the baseplate with clip-on strips that go underneath it to locate the unit/sit where the glass top used to be.&nbsp;The main body was obviously too big to print in one go, so I cut it into identical-sized quadrants and then used pegs to accurately locate all the pieces for gluing (I used some woodworking dowels as I have loads, but I&#39;ve included printable dowels too if you need to make some.). I only wanted/needed a vent on one side, but if you want a symmetrical version, you can ditch the RHS pieces and mirror the LHS in the slicer, just remember to mirror &amp; print an extra sliding vent piece too (and of course you&#39;ll have two separate sliders to operate when you want to switch mode).&nbsp;I believe the X1 and P1 series all have identical cases, so this should fit fine on all. Internal USB power isn&#39;t available on all models though, so you may need to drill a hole for an external power supply.&nbsp;It’ll need to cope with some heat when the vent is shut, so any material with a decent heat tolerance is advisable. The top of the chamber won&#39;t get quite as hot as the bed, but I figured if the bed&#39;s at 100C on a long print, it&#39;s gonna get pretty toasty up there, and there&#39;s a risk PLA could soften/deform as it fails around 55C. I never chanced it and went straight to ABS!&nbsp;So, here&#39;s what I used altogether:&nbsp;- About half a roll of ABS, check out the Bambu filament chart <a target="_blank" href="https://bambulab.com/en-gb/filament-guide" rel="nofollow noopener">here </a>to see other filaments &amp; their heat tolerances- (optional) 8 x standard woodworking dowels, 6 x 30mm long- (optional) Four circular magnets 10mm dia, 3mm deep- (optional) USB-powered LED strip – about 1.5m after trimming - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B24M5NYC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Here</a>’s the link to the one I used&nbsp;→ The quick printer &amp; filament calibration check <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/516970#profileId-433201" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> helps ensure that large models print the way they should, and could save you some filament/hassle/money (you just need the XY version, height isn&#39;t important on this job). ←&nbsp;Construction1 - Take the four main pieces and dry fit/dowel them together to check their size. Sand any edges that warped when printing and glue them together when you&#39;re happy. I found it easiest to glue both left pieces together, both right pieces together, then glue the left half to the right half. Or you could do front then back, just so long as you have two halves to bring together.2 - Snap the four strips to the underside (should be no need to glue them).3 - If you’re going to use magnets, fit two in the vent strip now and keep the magnet pole/polarity the same for each. There are two hidden ones in the case slot near the inside front too. For these, I made sure the south/north orientation was right first by snapping the magnet against the ones already in the vent strip, then attached them to a metal ruler and pushed them into the holes in the case slot.4 – Put the vent strip in its slot being sure to get the magnets towards the front if you fitted some. Push a dowel into the hole to act as the vent lever.5 - Fit the LEDs – the Bambu USB socket is at the front left behind the LCD, but I started from the front right corner because the USB lead was long enough to reach with the lead tucked neatly into the front inside lip. (Incidentally the socket is rated for 1.5A and the lights I used draw 1.4A when trimmed, so within limits/all fine!)&nbsp;This was a fun project to design and use, hope others find it useful!&nbsp;Update:  I&#39;ve been using mine for a while now and it fits &amp; works great, but I&#39;ve also found that the backing on the self-adhesive LEDs I used tends to soften on very long/hot print jobs, causing the strip to sag or come away in places, so I&#39;ve now stuck mine in with CA.&nbsp;→ As another user commented, the unit does block access to the SD slot. I&#39;ve never needed to access mine, but worth pointing out in case it matters to you. ←&nbsp;PS - A big thank you to anyone who has given me a boost: I make a lot of 3D stuff but much of it is for very custom DIY projects, jigs, hinges and pretty mundane things that probably aren&#39;t that useful. I&#39;m saving up my Maker Points for Bambu&#39;s maker kit though, so hopefully I can design/publish some new stuff that&#39;ll benefit from their easy-to-order motors, clocks and lights etc. Thanks for your help getting me there! :D

P1S Case riser, LED holder and Vent

配件

FADY

REMIX FROM BAMBULAB&#39;S WIRELESS MOUSE REQUIREMENTS LIST:Mouse Kit 002 from BAMBULAB :<a target="_blank" href="http://store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002" rel="nofollow noopener">http://store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002</a>Bottom Part:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/13716#profileId-14573" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/13716#profileId-14573</a><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000466135/design/2024-05-18_06b1c77edebe6.png"></figure>1/ added extrusions from both sides of the mouse for better handling<img class="image_resized" style="width: 13.11%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000466135/design/2024-05-17_e36a974efe2de.png"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 12.38%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000466135/design/2024-05-17_7da73cf3a1652.png">2/ increased bottom surface for more stability when pressing the buttons<img class="image_resized" style="width: 12.75%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000466135/design/2024-05-17_94047fe40b4ce.png">3/ Easier to click right button4/  with tree supports (also printable without supports)5/ with brimErgonomic mouse cover for the wireless mouse from bambulab

配件

都是宝贝