funktopus

gregory.ml

A festive twist on the classic Totoro design, this remix features the beloved character adorned with a charming Santa hat, adding a touch of holiday cheer to your collection. Print using PLA in Silver, White, Black, and Red, the pre-painted Totoro captures the essence of the season with its joyful and whimsical appearance.&nbsp;The santa hat was sourced here: &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/351772-giant-santa-hat" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/351772-giant-santa-hat</a>

Totoro in a Santa Hat

Christmas

Clipp3D

- Cute Spooky Ghost with Pumpkin Hat - Usable as little desk-accessory or as a keychain. No support necessary for the inside, just for the little pumpkin hat.

Cute Spooky Ghost with Pumpkin Hat

Halloween

Sakul

📐Corner Clamp for Woodworking🪚 I needed some corner clamps for a woodworking project that I&#39;m currently working on.Most of the corner clamps I found still needed a traditional one-hand clamp for tightening, so I designed my own that are fully 3D printed and don&#39;t need additional parts. I increased the wall count a little bit in the print profile to ensure that the parts are strong enough. The thread in the rail may look a bit rough after printing, but it worked like a charm without post-processing.  You may also like: <figure class="table" style="width: 98.39%"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/484385#profileId-396742" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000176297/design/2024-06-04_8706199eaa5e9.jpg"></a><figcaption>🍦Pop &amp; Catch Toys Ice Cream Cone🍦</figcaption></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/447981#profileId-354736" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000176297/design/2024-05-01_1338867632a42.jpg"></a><figcaption>🐷Minecraft Animal Farm Pack🐮</figcaption></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Corner Clamp for Woodworking

woodworking

Tag3mand

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS AN ON-GOING MODEL WITH CONTINIOUS IMPROVEMENTS!&nbsp;&nbsp;23-02-2024: I added a light weight version, with a hollowed out bottom to reduce filament consumption.&nbsp;22-02-2024 - I scaled up the model slightly, as it was a little tight with the m18 battery wings/locks.&nbsp;I made this milwaukee-themed battery holder. (those batteries tend to get HEAVY).So i made this six-pack-version, and it holds 6 x M18 batteries and 4 x m12 batteries.Please print with the needed supports.Hope you like it :)

Milwaukee Battery Holder / Carrier - Robust Sixpack edition - Holds 6 x M18 and 4 x M12

functional 

iwordthepuny

PARTS NEEDEDNON-3D-PRINTED1- standard 130 motor (I&#39;m fairly certain that&#39;s what I have, I got it from a parts kit, I don&#39;t know if there are different types of 130 motors or anything, all I know is that that seems to be what I have and it seems to be a very common motor type)&nbsp;2-3ish feet of wire to connect everything (you also need something to strip/cut the wire to connect it to stuff)&nbsp;1- Double aa battery pack (one that holds one battery or one that holds two batteries will work)(Max dimensions for battery pack with battery in are 33.6 mm wide, 59.6 mm long, and 17.2 mm tall. The battery pack must have the wires coming out of the bottom center area of one of the ends of the battery pack)&nbsp;1- 608 standard ball bearing(used in the gearbox, ask in the comments and I can make a version of it that doesn&#39;t need a bearing that might still work)&nbsp;1- KCD1-11 Rocker Switch(These came with my parts kit, I think they are a common standard, I know very little about these things so I do not know if these are a standard thing though)&nbsp;A buildplate that&#39;s at least 180 mm by 175 mm and 210 mm tall. (Don&#39;t know if it fits on Prusa Minis, if you angle it sideways it only needs 175 mm by 155)&nbsp;3D-PRINTED (around 115 grams of filament (not including the Marble Run and Spiral))1- ApexGearbox   (Replaces the original cap part)1- ApexKnobGear  (Replaces the original knob part)1- ApexBearingGear1- ApexMotorGear1- ApexElectronicsBase  (The big part, takes around 80 grams of filament)1- ApexBatteryHolder1- spiral  (You need to get this file from the original marble run&#39;s page, this is one of the original parts from the non-motorized version, so if you already have this printed you don&#39;t need to print it again)Link:   <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/809650-apex-a-3d-printed-marble-machine" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/809650-apex-a-3d-printed-marble-machine</a>1- Apex-marble-machine-9  (You need to get this file from the original marble run&#39;s page, this is one of the original parts from the non-motorized version, so if you already have this printed you don&#39;t need to print it again) (This is just the original marble run)&nbsp;                                                                                                               SettingsNo supports are needed, you only need to use two wall lines and 10 percent infill and everything works fine. I printed out of Pla, but any material should work. &nbsp;                                                                                                              OverviewThis is an add-on for Elegant Marble Machine&#39;s Apex Marble Machine that makes the spiral that lifts the marbles fully motorized. Additionally, all the electronics are hidden away in a sleek base that further increases the beauty of the marble run. The wires that go to the motor are hidden inside a long tube that runs up along the side of the marble run, also doubling as a convenient handle for the marble run. There is a slide-out battery compartment for easily changing the battery out that hides in the design in the base so you will never know it&#39;s there. It has been tested to run smoothly with 48 marbles(That&#39;s all I had) on one double AA battery at full charge. (See battery compartment section below) The base has four clips on it that keep the marble run securely attached even when upside down.                                                                                                CLIP WARNING-FRAGILEThe four clips on the Electronics Base that hold on the marble run securely are extremely easy to snap by accident. When bending back the clips to put the marble run on the base or to take it off do not bend them back any farther than you have to, or they will unfortunately snap. When putting it on I put the front in at an angle so that the front two clips don&#39;t need to be pushed back, then I just snap it in the rear clips one at a time. When taking it off I only get it off the back two clips, then lift it off at an angle so that the front clips don&#39;t need to be touched.  I wasn&#39;t sure how to make them any stronger, but if you do break one of them use some hot glue on the inside of the base to repair it, almost good as new!                                                                                                  Battery compartmentThe battery compartment is the part in the base that slides out so you can easily change the battery. First, let&#39;s talk about batteries. You can use two batteries to power the marble run, however this causes it to go too fast. (In my opinion) The noise made by the motorized components is much louder, and the increased speed makes it more likely for marbles to pile up on top of each other and jump out of the marble run, also the marbles can occasionally “skip” back from the base of the spiral from it going too fast to scoop them up. This is why I use only one battery, which is enough to run it at a slower speed. When powering the motor with only one battery, if the battery is running low on charge the motor may need a helping “push” to get it started with a lot of marbles. You may have noticed that I use a battery holder that holds two batteries, not one, though. That&#39;s because that&#39;s all I had! Double aa battery holders that hold two batteries are more common than ones that hold one,(I think) so here&#39;s what you do to adapt it to holding one. On the 3d printed battery compartment, there are two little slits on the sides at the end to run wires through. By running a wire through that, you can run a wire to the “spring” of one of the battery holders in place of one of the double aa&#39;s. Tie one of the wires to that instead of the wire coming out of the battery and it will send the current through there instead. The unused wire from the battery pack you can just cut short, in case you ever want to try two batteries you can just leave it there shortened so you can rewire to it if you ever want to. The space in the battery compartment is big enough for a battery pack(with the batteries inside it) measuring up to 33.6 mm wide, 59.6 mm long, and 17.2 mm tall, then you just have two wires coming out of the end to connect to the rest of the wiring in the electronics base. You can use a piece of double-sided tape or glue to affix the battery pack to the battery compartment so that it doesn&#39;t come out or flop around when changing the battery. One other note, the battery packs I have had a metal &#34;tab/switch&#39; sticking out of the side to turn on or off the circuit, I just snipped off the excess length from mine with cutters so it could fit.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000478213/design/7e3a2fb5-8686-4cdc-afbb-466bd59ab9aa.png"></figure>                                                                                                     Assembly-GearboxTo assemble the gearbox you need four parts, The Gearbox, the Knobgear, the Bearinggear, the Motorgear, the 608 Bearing, and the 130-type motor. First, put the 608 bearing into the round hole in the bottom of the gearbox. The fit is meant to be quite tight so depending on your tolerances, you may need to hammer it in. Next, put the Knobgear into the center hole in the gearbox. Next, put the Bearinggear into the 608 bearing. Next, put the whole gearbox on the top of the marble run where the original Cap used to be. There are five pillars, and therefore five directions, where you could put it. However the pillars are not lined up with the sides of the hexagons, so only one direction will align with the handle, and that&#39;s the side that the marble run&#39;s “Stairs” are. You could have it face any of the other directions, but then the gearbox and the handle where the wires run up to the motor will not be aligned. The wires will have to go out of it sideways to the motor, which will not functionally affect it, only aesthetically. The motor, while part of the gearbox, is wired into the electronics base, so it is easiest to wire it up to that and then put the motor in as the last step.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000478213/design/a9363be3-d878-4682-88a3-c7e69aa3ebcc.png"></figure>                                                                                     Assembly-Electronics BaseThe Electronics base is the part with all of the wiring that makes the marble run… run. Following the instructions in the Battery Compartment section, you should have your battery pack already in there with the wires for it coming out the end. Take the battery compartment and slide it into the sliding area for it where the little clips and stuff are, note that it slides in from the inside of the base. Next, take your switch and tie the two wires you are going to connect to it to the prongs on it, as it is easier to do this before inserting the switch. Then, just snap the switch into the hole in the front, making sure to orient it so that the two prongs have the wall in between them. Then, you will need to take two long wires and run them through the handle. One trick that makes it easier to connect the wires at the bottom is to tie another wire to the top of the wires so that you can pull out more of the wire&#39;s length at the bottom without the wires going too far into the handle to get them back. When wiring things up, make sure the wires have enough extra length for the battery compartment to fully extend out. When the battery compartment is slid in, the wires can just bunch up or whatever inside the electronics base. You may have noticed that there are a bunch of little “bridges” in the base, and those are for guiding the wires. Using the picture below, wire up all of the wires just like that. By stripping off the exterior of the wire, you can twist the ends of them together like a twist tie to connect them. Just make sure that two exposed bits of wire from different parts of the circuit aren&#39;t able to touch or it could keep the circuit from working properly. Next, take the MotorGear and press it onto the shaft of the motor. Then, at the end of it all, twist tie the ends of the wire in the handle to the motor so that it is just hanging there from the top of the handle. Then, turn on the switch and see if the motor turns on! Electronics base assembled!  :)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000478213/design/2af2c4bc-3c7a-4b39-9999-be8c1d63e525.png"></figure>                                                                                  Putting in/ Taking out the marble runOnce you have both your Gearbox and your Electronics Base fully assembled, first have the Gearbox on the marble run. Then, making sure that the handle is on the same side as where the gearbox is facing, take the marble run and put the front of it under the two hooks in the front of the Electronics Base, then lower the back of it onto the rear hooks and make it snap in under them one at a time. Then, take the motor dangling from the top of the handle and press it into the Gearbox. This is intended to be a tight fit so that the motor stays in there, also holding in all the gears. Your Electric marble run is now assembled :)To remove the marble run from the base, first, take the motor out of the gearbox. If it is in there too tight, take a screwdriver or something and go under the motor, use the Bearinggear as the surface to prop up against, and lever the motor out the first part of the way using the screwdriver. Then, it should be much easier to remove the rest of the way. Once the motor is removed, it&#39;s onto the hooks. Be very careful not to bend the hooks back too far or they will snap. Take one of the two back hooks and move it back enough to get the edge of the marble run out from under the lip of the hook, then do the same thing with the other side, then just lift up at an angle to bypass the two front hooks and your marble run is free. :)&nbsp;If you have any issues, ask in the comments and I will see if there&#39;s anything I can do to help. Also, it would be great if you could make a make or review :)                                                                                Compatibility with other marble runsThe maker of the Apex marble machine also has other marble runs! They sell the files on their Etsy store for a couple of bucks each and they all work off of the same base system, just having different tracks for the marbles. As a result, my motorized add-on is (most likely) fully compatible with all of them! They all share the same base size and the same marble lifting mechanism but there are a few things to look out for. The base has six sides, but the top of it has five pillars which the cap and knob go on to. That means the sides of the base and the five pillars are not aligned, which is why my gearbox is offset from the pillars to line up with one of the sides on the Apex marble machine. However, I cannot guarantee that the pillars for the other marble machine models are aligned the same, which means that the pillar that goes up to the gearbox may not align perfectly with the gearbox. (This does not affect it functionally, only aesthetically) However, I am confident all the pillars are aligned the same. One other thing, the clips that hold onto the marble run go over the base of the marble run slightly, this means that if some of the other designs have anything near the edges of the base they may block the clips from hooking over. In the end, my motorized addon should be compatible with all of their other marble runs. I bought a lot of the files, so as I print the marble runs I will put below if they are fully compatible. (also remember that you have to find which pillar lines up the best with the gearbox)Get their other Marble machine models here at their Etsy store!Link:   <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/elegantmachines/?etsrc=sdt" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/shop/elegantmachines/?etsrc=sdt</a>Voltiex: FULLY COMPATIBLE-NO ISSUES

Motorized Apex Marble Machine (Motorized Addon)

Marble Run

Josh-3D

[Intro]An A1 mini version of the Scifi crated I had previously created! Remodeled from scratch to fit the A1 Mini&#39;s bed size, while still retaining the looks of the original. This one has a full flip top! And includes magnets to help keep the lid closed and the choice of a knob or a key to keep it secure.&nbsp;This crate follows the same ideas and goals as the first one. Aiming to be a model that was bigger than the printers build volume, but didn&#39;t feel like just a chopped up to fit model. Also to make it fun and stylish! While still remaining practical.&nbsp;[Community Spotlight]<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@mjrdcrker" rel="nofollow noopener">mjrdcrker </a>has made some 3d printable m3 nuts to help reduce the external hardware cost! Check them out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/459843#profileId-368189" rel="nofollow noopener">HERE</a>. &nbsp;&nbsp;[What you&#39;ll need]&nbsp;Featured Filament: Bambu PLA Matte Lemon Yellow &amp; Bambu PLA Basic Blue Gray Bambu PLA Basic Bronze, Gold &amp; Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal&nbsp;Tools:Hex Driver/Alen Wrench #3Flat head screwdriverFile for cleaning up edges where the brim is used, or whichever tool you&#39;d prefer for the job.Drill bits for clearing out holesSome sort of pointy tool and/or tweezers for clearing out the pockets for the m3 nuts after the holes have been cleared&nbsp;Hardware:Screws1 - M3x6 - Used for the latch14 M3x8 - 2 used for the latch, 12 for the sides12 M3x12-16 - Used to attach the sides to the mid section. 12mm to 16mm screws work.2 M3x16 - Used for the hinges!24 M3 NutsMagnets4 4x6mm magnets Here&#39;s a few sources! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PMYRFT" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon US 1</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Hyoocct-Decorative-Magnets-Whiteboard-Refrigerator/dp/B0C99NPBS4/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FHDJ0oqOVxvWcW1x95_xHo2MW_YBNVZR7aWRaQYLpE3grQUtv0WGjgnHvXRgNq3rnODupeRRTnaORbJSTkeJhUlnWBUziN9bBpPsSSRaO9WcXrywYt3pVaUMfvKpuUiuCNxuTfH1iH6cxOEkrMbGvs7CbXCdLMFXYt_adOTHK3oK9u_4Lh4A6V7IQrd0RHFdZt6vZzSD5n60Bx1GTPvjDLIIoX1d8WlgDMyeE22j6YA.TMWFX8yKk1vTMb3GPUUZAs5LPzZLguMFGHwrWC67jCI&amp;dib_tag=se&amp;keywords=4x6mm+magnet&amp;qid=1713635375&amp;sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon US 2</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://suprememagnets.com/products/neodymium-magnet-4x6mm-disc" rel="nofollow noopener">SuperMagnets</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://dev.apexmagnets.com/magnets/4mm-x-6mm-cylinders-neodymium-magnet" rel="nofollow noopener">Apex Magnets</a>&nbsp;[Assembly]First we&#39;ll want to prepare the pieces once they&#39;ve been printed. We&#39;ll want to drill out all of the holes. The holes were capped off in key locations to help get a cleaner print.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 47.57%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_1e2a22250a916.png"></figure>In the mid sections, we&#39;ll have 8 holes on each side to drill out. Be careful not to go too far in, as we only want to clear out for the M3 Nut pockets. Once we have the holes drilled out, clear out the pockets and make sure they are as free from debris as you can get them. Insert the M3 Nuts now and make sure they are firmly pressed into place. They can be a little loose, so may fall out if you jiggle the model around too much.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 53.2%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_62ffdf5307b5a.png"></figure>Before we move on to the end sections, we&#39;ll want to install the latch. You can do this at any point, but it&#39;s easiest to do before the main box is assembled. USe a M3x6 screw for the lower section. To screw the latch/knob together, we&#39;ll use two M3x8 screws!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.41%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_fc03d5936c46.png"></figure>On the end sections, drill out the holes as indicated. There will be 9 holes on either side to clear out. While we&#39;re here, we&#39;ll also want to insert the M3 nuts into their seated beds. We can do this later, but it&#39;ll be much easier to do it now before we start assembling everything. Make sure to press them in as much as you can.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.78%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_677422314cf9a.png"></figure>Now we&#39;ll start attaching the sides to the mid sections. Use M3x12-16 screws! I mean, you can use from sizes 12 to 16mm long. 12 is the minimum! For the hinges, use M3x16mm screws! We want that little extra length, for sure. Make sure not to over-tighten the screws as it can deform the plastic and cause troubles with the fit!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.07%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_5e88ab0baf27.png"></figure>For the hinge, we&#39;ll want to make sure the screw is in all the way. If it doesn&#39;t feel like it&#39;s all the way in just by pushing it, then screw it in to help guide it past any points of friction that might be holding it up. Along with the screw plugs for the ends, there should have been two little bars which we&#39;ll insert into the holes for the hinge screws, to help keep them firmly secure.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50.71%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_adc2516606597.png"></figure>We&#39;ll attach the end caps using M3x8 screws! This can be a little fiddly, as the clearances are tight for the depth of the screws. You may need to press the M3 nut in a little more to help it catch the threads of the screw. There will be 6 screws on either side.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 55.38%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_08297f81c7a8e.png"></figure>Use a flat headed screw driver to install the screw plugs. Careful not to over tighten them!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.28%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_2b6946d6f537f.png"></figure>Lastly, we&#39;ll install the magnets! I&#39;ve adjusted the clearence on this model so should be easier than previous models I&#39;ve done that use these magnets. Press them in on one side, using like a screw driver to help guide them. Then just put the magnets for the other side ontop of the ones you just inserted and press the lid down to press everything into place!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 52.13%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000375579/design/2024-03-16_82972264a633.png"></figure>That&#39;s it! Enjoy!&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.

Scifi Crate - Mini Edition

storage

entroisdimensions_figurine

Arcanine is now available, and you have the choice between different file formats:<ul><li>STL</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Bambu Lab printer</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Prusa printer</li></ul>Video of printing the model: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> For printing, I used PolyTerra and Polylite PLA filament from Polymaker: 4 colors version:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polylite-pla?variant=40603478655033" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyLite cream</a> (for belly and mane)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351937593" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Sunrise orange</a> (for body)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352232505" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Cotton White</a> (for the eyes)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351282233" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Charcaol Black</a> (for pupil and line on the body)</li></ul>To discover which new models will be released next, follow @polymaker_figurines: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> Join the Figurines Community on <a target="_blank" href="https://discord.com/invite/r2ujMfEb7S" rel="nofollow noopener">Discord</a> Happy Printing!-----------------------------------------------Printer settings on the Bambu Lab X1C<ul><li>Rafts: No</li><li>Supports: Yes</li><li>Resolution: 0.2mm</li><li>Infill: 10%</li><li>Filament brand: Polymaker</li><li>Filament color: cream, orange, white and black</li><li>Filament material: <a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA</a></li></ul>

Arcanine Multicolor

pokemon

TomoDesigns

An easy print-in-place ratchet fidget that makes a satisfying sound. Just print it out and turn it around for the cool well-known ratchet sound.You do not need to use any supports. It is fully print in place. It can help to use a brim. You can choose between the closed and open versions. Note that the open version is louder.&nbsp;I used this material: <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cmqm" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Basic Red/Blue</a>&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/tomo_designs/" rel="nofollow noopener">my Instagram</a> if you want to see more designs like this or if you have questions!&nbsp;Do you want to support me or become a reseller of my designs? Go take a look at my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/TomoDesigns" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>!<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/ob9XFThHx4E"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ob9XFThHx4E" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Ratchet Fidget

fidgets 

hanysX

You all know and love the Star Wars Universe! Immerse yourself with this one-of-a-kind astromech seen regularly throughout Star Wars Skywalker Saga! Simple print, you can scale down to 25% for a desk topper or keep it at the provided scaling for an awesome room decoration! Supports are suggested!

Star Wars R2-D2

models

Crea_Hicks

An Easy to Print and Easy to assemble Saturn V Rocket. Glue it right in place!If you have any questions or model recommendations, please contact me.

Saturn V Kit Card

kit cards

Dr Operator

UPDATE 6/21/2024: The following changes were made based on feedback that I&#39;ve received.                                                                            - Increased the contact area of the slots on Waist 3 to help with stability.                                      - Adjusted plate #6 to prevent overlapping of calibration lines when using an X1C.                                      - Increased the circumferential height of both faces to prevent tilting when installed.                                      - Added additional supports to the chest.                                      - Added an additional magnet to the chest and door to help keep the door closed.                                           - Reduced the length of Hand 1 by 10%                UPDATE 5/17/2024: Seriously, all of the necessary supports have been added thanks to @SirWaynesworth and @SrGrinch. UPDATE 5/16/2024: I&#39;ve added supports for the head as per the feedback that I&#39;ve received.  I&#39;m having a lot of fun designing stuff around the MakerWorld hardware kits and up next is a Cogsworth clock using the Clock Components Kit 011 and 4x2 mm Round Magnet (20PCS) - CA001. Links to purchase both of those items are in the Bill of Materials list down the page further. When I got the hardware kit in my hands for the first time, two ideas came to me right away. This is the bigger, more complex of the two ideas. If you&#39;re not familiar with Cogsworth, he is a character from the classic Disney movie Beauty and the Beast. Notes:<ul><li>I made a “happy” face as well as the unimpressed face and the faces can be swapped at any time.</li><li> Fully assembled, it stands 312 mm or just over 12&#34;.</li><li>The Door Window colour is listed as white in the profile because there is no colour option for Transparent PLA in Bambu studio</li><li>This was fun, we should do it again sometime.</li></ul>&nbsp;Filaments used: Bambu PLA Basic - GoldBambu PLA Basic - Black Bambu PLA Matte - Dark BrownBambu PLA Matte - Desert Tan Eryone PLA - White AMZ3D PLA - TransparentAMZ3D PLA - Sakura Pink&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 45.37%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-21_862053b705ab98.png"></figure>ASSEMBLY: Assembly shouldn&#39;t take long at all and while technically you don&#39;t need super glue, it is recommended for certain parts. Start with the face. For this you will need the Clock component kit, both hands, both nose pieces and the face you want to use. Insert the clock component into the back of the face and secure it with the nut that comes with the kit. From there, slide the hour hand onto the face followed by the first nose piece, the minute hand and finally the nose cap.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_2b963bbc1511c8.png">  <figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 37.41%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_ef73d37de10038.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Now we&#39;re going to assemble the head. You will need all of the head pieces and the face. Start by fitting all four Head 2 pieces into the top of the head and then fitting Head 4 on top.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 62.78%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_34e58fcd8f6178.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;From there, slide the face into the back of the head and push it forward as far as you can. The back of the head attaches via magnets. When setting the magnets into the head and the back of the head, make sure you have the polarities correct. Once you have the head together, set it aside for now.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 71.85%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_daa109bace958.png"></figure>&nbsp; For the lower body, you will need all four feet as well as all four waist pieces. Fit the waist pieces over the feet as seen below, and I would highly suggest gluing that top piece down.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 65.32%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_e09bdb358c1618.png"></figure>&nbsp; Next up is the door. You will need the door, the door window and the Neck. The neck fits into the door and then the window attaches to the inside of the door, securing the neck in place.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 73.02%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_a64261c168d348.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Now we&#39;re going to connect everything together. Start by attaching the legs/waist to the body, and I would highly suggest using glue to secure those pieces together. After that, attach the Arms to the body as seen below.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 83.04%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_e0147e75409638.png"></figure>&nbsp; Attach the head to the body with glue being highly recommended for securing the head to the body. Last thing to do is to connect the door. The hinge on the door itself has little notches and the body and door snap together using those notches.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 55.69%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449421/design/2024-04-30_8e84ca12c1f21.png"></figure>

Clock Components Kit 011: Cogsworth

for jen

Eddie

🌿 Bulbasaur Planter: Bringing Pokémon Charm to Your Green Space! 🌿&nbsp;The Bulbasaur plant pot is more than just a vessel for your favorite green companions—it’s a delightful fusion of nostalgia, creativity, and practicality. Imagine a tiny Bulbasaur nestled among your succulents, its leafy back sprouting vibrant greenery.&nbsp;Perfectly sized for succulents, cacti, or small houseplants, the Bulbasaur planter cradles your green friends. Place it on your windowsill, desk, or shelf—the choice is yours!&nbsp;Remember: Water your plants with love (and not too much water). Keep Bulbasaur indoors or in a sheltered outdoor spot. And most importantly, avoid Team Rocket!

Bulbasaur Plant Pot - Multicolor and Single Color

plant stuff

OLLESTORE

Full AMS Hub Lite replacement , uses standard PC4-M10 PTFE coupler, I printed because I was angry and disappointed by the complexity of the ams hub : Its the second time I broke my AMS Hub while pulling the PFTE cables and pulling stuck filament from the AMS HUB .Also this can be used as temporary replacement until your original AMS HUB  Lite oem part arrives from bambulab .This part is compatible only with A1 and A1 Mini .&nbsp;This full replacement mean to replace full the TOP part , but the sensor parts ( bottom one) .&nbsp;READ THIS CAREFULLY: using this part the “tangle filament sensor” wont trigger/work ( there is no magnet to trigger it) . I&#39;m not responsable for any damage to your printer, use it at YOUR RISK .&nbsp;How to use :  1) Remove fully the AMS Hub and Disconnect the sensor part for satefy. ( <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/filament-sensor-replacement" rel="nofollow noopener">https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/filament-sensor-replacement</a> )!! Disconnect this part below ( from the ams lite , just the x2 screws ) or it will break !!<img class="image_resized" style="width: 52.26%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000469003/design/2024-05-19_973f156242049.jpg">2) Remove the plastic ring that holds the AMS HUB ( ring goes out easily with a flat screwdriver)<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.6%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000469003/design/2024-05-19_000c22ef815978.jpg"></figure>3) Insert the new part ( push it it until it clamps) ( you can remove the sprint for ease install , but save it for later for the oem part) <figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 48.85%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000469003/design/2024-05-19_22cda3b444e8c8.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 37.29%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000469003/design/2024-05-19_68f898d58bd91.jpg"></figure>4) Tread the PC4-M10 Coupler<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 44.11%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000469003/design/2024-05-19_54938188d42788.jpg"></figure>5) Connect the PTFE Tubes6) Connect to the toolhead7) reconnect the sensor part8) Print with your AMS Lite as normal.&nbsp;&nbsp;Some Photos are from the ( black version) first iteration where I retained the plastic ring, but was not stable enough

AMS Lite Hub full replacement - PC4-M10 couplers 

A1 accessories

JiltedGeek

Designed a modular system to connect 10mm sticks I snagged on Amazon, perfect for building a support structure for a raised bed cover.I used it to craft a rack for hanging a net over our garden&#39;s raised beds. Created various corner pieces with different angles. The extension tubes are necessary for the corner pieces but can also extend the 30cm sticks if needed.&nbsp;Pro tip: I split the corner piece in two in my slicer, so no supports are needed. The extension tubes hold the two halves together nicely.&nbsp;Printed everything in PETG at 0.3mm, with 2 perimeters, 1 bottom layer, 2 top layers, and 20% infill for speed.&nbsp;[update]Added SPLIT versions of the corner pieces for your convenience. 😊&nbsp;[update]Also added a SET with the complete corner piece &amp; extension pieces all-in-one package.&nbsp;Amazon link (no affiliate): <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B0993D8N2W?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon Link</a>