helponhand

Bike

camberwell.co

<p>I designed this case for my iPhone 14 Pro Max when I first got it and was waiting to buy a regular case.  I printed this in Ninjaflex TPU (85A shore hardness), which works well.  Something in the low 90A scale would be better in my opinion as this was a little too flexible and felt like it could slip off easily. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The case is thick enough so that the camera lenses are protected when you set it down on a table or flat surface.  </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I wouldn't recommend printing this in a non-flexible filament. </p>

iPhone 14 Pro Max Case

iPhone

💡Idea Prints✔️

<h3><strong>🇬🇧 RETRACTION TEST</strong></h3><h3><strong>🇮🇹  TEST RETRAZIONE</strong></h3><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>before downloading the template I ask you to put a like for support, it doesn’t cost you anything first a click on like then a click on download, thank you very much</strong></p><p><i>📐Calibra la tua retrazione per il motore E </i></p><p><i>📐Calibrate your retraction for the E engine </i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i>info: </i></p><p>👤Account link to share it= <a href="https://www.printables.com/it/social/480242-idea-prints" rel="nofollow">idea-prints</a></p>

RETRACTION TEST

Test Prints

Dhruv patel

<p>update nov 2023 <br>those who are having trouble finding id size they use slicer measuring tool extenstion to scale the stl up or down as per there required pipe fittings i did same for mine my pvc pipe were salvage from old toy tent so they were 9mm i scale the model in slicer to fit the pipe perfectly for loose joint just ally small tape or shim it will fit well or just glue once every thing is set in place<br><br><br>Buy me a coffee</p><p><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/Id.dhruvpatel" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/Id.dhruvpatel</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Did a scale down version test for my pipe fitting as shown in image</p><p>*update added soildworks file for modifing the joints ad per your need*</p><p>all internal dimention of stl are 20mm do a test print of one to check best fit for you pvc pipe as it diffrers from style and company</p><p>update instruction :</p><p>fig:1<br>8x : y way joint 8 for cube <br>4x : L join for door <br>1x : hinge ( note glue any one side of hinge as per you liking and feel</p><p>fig:2<br>same as fig:1 plus<br>4x : middle support joint (if you want to make a layer use)<br>3x : angle joint (if you are adding exhaust or light to corner triangle printer)</p><p><br>MAKER NOTE :</p><p>makers plese test and update me with whats needed and sned you makes also its on prinatble download from there i will be happy to see mods for filament holder led bars and such </p>

3d printer encloser

Other printers

Adam L

<h3>TLDR:</h3><p>This post is quite long and detailed because it involves the findings from hundreds of experiments.  If you&#39;re just looking to try the best settings, download <strong>TestSuite_OrcaSlicerOnly_V6.3MF</strong> , make sure to set your own filament profile and note the per-object settings that are used along with the global settings.  </p><ul><li>This plate was tuned against Prusament Simply Green PLA.  </li><li>3x Test objects are printed for 2 sets of optimized settings and a reference “traditional seam” set (for my Bambu X1C). One set of settings is Arachne for general use, the other set is newer and is optimized on curved overhangs, which are quite challenging, it may also work well for general use. </li></ul><p>For details and to optimize for your printer, read below!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Updates: </p><p><i><strong>2/29/24 PM</strong>:  New best settings!  Excel sheet and test suite updated to v2.  Using extrusion rate smoothing now helps a little bit more with quality. I think I&#39;m finally done optimizing.</i></p><p><i><strong>3/1/24</strong></i>: Youtube Video featuring this is now up: </p><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/vl0FT339jfc"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vl0FT339jfc" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><p><i><strong>3/8/24</strong>:  Significantly reworked this post.  Updated Binary build files to latest main branch build.  Added new whole section on learnings about overhangs from the test pot model.  Retired old test plate and introduced a new best starting settings test plate.</i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i><strong>3/12/24</strong>:  Removed builds, please use </i><a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases" rel="nofollow noopener"><i>Orca 2.0 Beta or newer now</i></a><i>, which has this feature.</i></p><p><i>-----------------------</i></p><p><i>Scarf seams are a cutting edge feature in Orcaslicer that allow you to do amazing things, primarily enable hiding of seams on curved surfaces, which has always been a difficult problem with FDM 3D printing.  This guide is intended to show you how to use the feature and get better prints.  <strong>If you enjoy my hard work, please download + like my model, it makes me smile !</strong> </i></p><h3>Scarf Seams - Overview</h3><p>The basic idea with scarf seams is that they work by &#34;ramping the seam&#34; over itself, which results in a printed wall that prints on top of itself like this:</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/319ba7f3-ef5c-4d59-85ff-8a939e245bf6.png"></figure><p>Because this is like wrapping a scarf over itself and is also like the common scarf woodworking joint, we call this a “scarf seam”.</p><p>What are the pros?</p><ul><li>Scarf seams solve a hard problem in 3D printing of hiding the seam, particularly for <strong>prints where the seam must lie on a curved surface</strong>. This is actually incredibly common, as inside round holes or external curved surfaces are present in a large number of prints.</li><li>Scarf seams can also work well on flat surfaces, but in some cases traditional seams may be a better option.</li></ul><h4>What are the Requirements / Gotchas ?</h4><p>Scarf seams can be good for many prints, but particularly in the cases of sharp corners it may be better to use a traditional seam. Scarf seams do have some requirements for use to get good results.  Extensive optimization has been done to find good general settings and another set of settings in particular that may work better for overhangs.  The general principals are:</p><ul><li>Use of a <strong>slower outer wall speed</strong> is particularly important to get good results without wall distortions.  How important this is may vary by printer&#39;s ability to precisely control extrusions at very low flow.  Going too slow can be bad too, as it causes localized heating issues.  Optimal speeds are generally in the range 50-100 mm/sec for the scarf speed.  My suggested settings use 75 or 100 mm/sec.</li><li>Use of a <strong>wider outer wall </strong>helps decrease extrusion rate error.  For a 0.4 nozzle, I recommend 0.6 outer walls.</li><li>Use of a <strong>higher layer height</strong> than 0.2 may be helpful, again, because it reduces extrusion rate error.  In some cases, however, it can hurt.  My settings are optimized on the common 0.2 mm height.</li><li>Use of <strong>inner/outer/inner</strong> is the recommended wall order.  Outer/inner appears to provide worse results, as does inner/outer.  This means that overhang performance may suffer, but this is challenging in general with scarf seams (see considerations below).</li><li>Use of <strong>extrusion rate smoothing</strong> can help edge out just a little more quality on my Bambu X1C printer.  I set mine to 300mm^3/s^2 and this got me the best settings.  Non X1/P1 printers may need other settings.. read the mouse-hover tooltip in OrcaSlicer for an idea of what to use for your printer.</li><li>Toggling certain features make things ugly.  <strong>Do not use the following</strong>:  <ul><li>Using &#34;Wipe on loops&#34; or “Wipe on external loops” make things bad.</li><li>Combination of (Retract on layer change off + Wipe while retracting off) also no good.</li></ul></li></ul><p><strong>Overhangs optimization / additional considerations.</strong></p><p>If possible, it is recommended to paint a scarf seam away from an overhang on a model.  However if it is not possible to do so, then there are some things you can do (see bullets below).  Certain overhangs can be a challenge with scarf seams, and it seems to depend on geometry strongly.  I have designed and tested a difficult “pot” model to optimize overhangs, and have run an additional 80+ tests on this to try and find good values.  Here&#39;s what I learned from this mess of little pots:</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/e0a6cfae-1aa2-4bbe-83bd-f3906308f4b4.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Curved overhangs are particularly sensitive to both the<strong> number of inner walls</strong>, their <strong>width </strong>and their <strong>print order</strong>.  It&#39;s important to note that changing certain values like inner wall width can make a meaningful difference.  </li><li>Situations where model thickness is so thin that there&#39;s no infill to relieve any extra over-extrusion can be particularly sensitive (my test pot does this). <strong>Single or double walls with no infill or anything touching them on the inside performed the very best</strong>, but this limitation is unrealistic for most prints.</li><li> <strong>Classic mode</strong> can sometimes help, because it stabilizes the width of the walls touching the outer wall, keeping them from varying as they do in Arachne.  This is particularly useful in the case where you don&#39;t have any infill between an inner and outer suface of the object, as is the case with thinner walled objects.</li><li><strong>Speed</strong> (outer wall/scarf speeds) is particularly important for overhangs because of the fight between good cooling and adhesion.  For me I found with my filament that 75 mm/sec produced OK results, 100 mm/sec produced better results, but 150 mm/sec was far worse.  There is likely a sweet spot for any given filament/temperature/hotend combination.  You may need to try a few values.</li><li>Use of inner scarf joints is often beneficial to overall quality for the outer scarf seams, but can be a challenge for overhangs, as it causes cause an internal nozzle “landing mark” right next to the outer scarf lead-in start.  This is problematic because the hot nozzle sits there while a de-retraction happens, and leaves a visible inner “smoosh” which distorts the outer walls.  This doesn&#39;t seem to be a problem normally, but with overhangs it appears to cause issues.  Consider using <strong>staggered inner seams</strong> to help combat this.  Unfortunately the staggering distance is presently fixed and small.  I believe if it were larger, it might help quality even more.  I have <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/4386" rel="nofollow noopener">opened a feature request for this.</a>  Here&#39;s what the circular nozzle “landing mark” from an inner scarf seam (inner-outer-inner wall order) looks like, for reference:</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:81.79%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/7668d890-2d76-45e0-96c6-51e2699ddc98.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h4>What about setting xxxxxx ?</h4><ul><li>Use of <strong>Conditional Scarf Joint</strong> is strongly recommended to be on.  This applies the scarf seam only when a round surface (vs sharp corner) is encountered and blends the best of both worlds.  You can also adjust the threshold angle which determines the crossover point between traditional and scarf seams.  In my pot tests and optimized settings, I use a value of 115 to force the scarf seam on everywhere for testing reasons.  This may or may not be optimal for your use case.  Adjust as you like.</li><li>Use of <strong>Contour</strong> mode will give you scarf seams on the outermost wall only.  <strong>Contour+Hole</strong> will include inside “hole” walls in the part.  One mode vs the other may be desirable for different reasons.  My settings use Contour+Hole by default.</li><li>Use of <strong>Inner Scarf</strong> often (but not always !) improves results, but will slow down the print overall. </li><li><strong>Scarf around entire wall</strong> makes the nozzle do two passes as it slowly spirals around the entire perimeter.  This has not significantly improved results for me, but some people claim it works better.</li><li>Making the <strong>scarf length</strong> shorter than the default 20 starts to become a particular quality problem, especially below ~10-15 mm.  I recommend leaving it at default of 20.</li><li>Changing the <strong>scarf steps</strong> doesn&#39;t seem to matter much.  The default 10 is fine, although my settings use 20.</li><li>Changing the <strong>scarf flow ratio</strong> doesn&#39;t seem to help, despite hopes that it would. I worked together with SoftFever on this feature in the hopes it would help overhangs, but it didn&#39;t improve anything dropping all the way down to 90% flow.</li><li>Slowing down inner wall speeds can sometimes also improve quality. </li></ul><h3>How-To:</h3><p>&nbsp;</p><ol><li> <strong>You will need to use a OrcaSlicer 2.0 beta or newer.</strong>  <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases" rel="nofollow noopener">Find this here</a>. </li><li> <strong>Download the latest TestSuite_OrcaSlicerOnly and print it</strong>, to validate the settings on your printer. Make sure you have picked your own filament presets and tuned your filament for temperature/pressure advance/etc before trying this ! </li><li><strong>Pick the best settings from the test-plate scan of parameters.</strong> If you don&#39;t get good results with one of the two settings i&#39;ve offered for you here, you may need to start tweaking values based on the explanations listed above.  Note that each set of parameters has 3 test objects:  A cylinder, a double-hex, and a little pot, to test major geometry types. </li></ol><p>&nbsp;</p><ol><li><strong>Test 1: </strong> Original Base recommended settings</li><li><strong>Test 2: </strong>Newer overhang optimized settings.</li><li><strong>Test 3: </strong> Scarf Seam off.. reference print.</li></ol><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Don&#39;t expect perfectly invisible seams</strong>.   While scarf seams are a drastic improvement in many cases, it doesn&#39;t mean they&#39;re always perfectly invisible on close inspection.  This feature is cutting edge.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>What optimization work has been done ?</h3><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Stage 1:  </strong>Cylinders + Double Hexes</p><p>I first spent a good deal of time (60+ experiments) optimizing the scarf seam on simple models (cylinders and a double-hex).  You may see my work in the attached excel sheet and the huge number of parts (green pile of junk in pictures) with all the settings I tried.  If you wish to reproduce my work for this stage (SCIENCE!), you can do so by using these settings with the test plate I have included here.</p><p> These were done on my Bambu X1C printer with a 0.4 Nozzle.  I do believe most of these optimization results will translate to most printers..  however some experimentation may be necessary for your printer.  I recommend running the 2x5 object test plate I&#39;ve included here to validate that you will get good results with the suggested settings on flat/angular and circular surfaces before you use it on a whole print.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Stage 2: </strong>Complex curved pot</p><p>Not satisfied with the results of stage 1 on overhangs, I then sought to improve matters by designing and optimizing a small curved pot to find good overhang performance settings. It&#39;s small and cute and looks like this:</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:19.84%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/19d79a79-621b-4bf6-93cc-8f29124b88e9.png"></figure><p>This took an additional 80+ experiments (see mess of pots image above), which unfortunately I haven&#39;t had the time to compile into an excel sheet.  You&#39;ll have to take my word for it that I tested a ton of things, and my general findings are summarized above in the <strong>Overhangs optimization / additional considerations</strong> section.  Basically, if you can help it, try to avoid placing the scarf seam on an overhang via seam painting.  If you can&#39;t, I&#39;ve tried to formulate the best settings for you.  Find them in the updated test suite.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Other notes:</p><p>The hard work here is a collaboration with the broad 3D printing community and in particular many great contributors to Orcaslicer.  </p><p>On the model optimization, I worked with Michael from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw" rel="nofollow noopener">Teaching Tech</a>.  He has another <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/784633-scarf-seam-test-model" rel="nofollow noopener">test model he designed</a>, which is more expensive to print than my test plate, but is a better overall validation.  I recommend printing that after you run my test plate to pick the best parameters. </p>

Better Seams:Orca Slicer Guide to Scarf Seams

Tutorials etc

Lox-3D

<p>Deutsch</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Ich Empfehle vor jeden Druck das Filament für mindesten 6 Stunden bei 55° zu Trocknen um kleine Blässchen bildung im Druck zu vermeiden die durch feuchtigkeit entstehen.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Die Druck Profiele sind perfekt für TPU abgestimmt es gibt eins für Transparentes TPU und eins für Normales TPU dazu muss nur das Testmodel gelöscht werden und seine eigene STL eigefügt werden.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Das Model eignet sich super für ein Farbtest mit verschiedenen schichten von 0,2mm - 1mm dicke um die Transparents zu sehen.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Ebendso ist ein kleiner Test dabei um zu sehen ob die Lochdiminsion passen.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>---------------------------------------------</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Englisch</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I recommend drying the filament for at least 6 hours at 55° before each print to avoid small bubbles in the print caused by moisture.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The printing profiles are perfectly tailored for TPU - there is one for transparent TPU and one for normal TPU. All you have to do is delete the test model and add your own STL.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The model is great for a color test with different layers of 0.2mm - 1mm thick to see the transparents.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>There is also a small test to see whether the hole dimensions are correct.</p>

Perfect TPU printing Profile / Color Sample & hole test

Profiles

schutz

<p><i>Update 3-Apr-24: Added a second print profile that provides narrower slits to catch smaller pieces of desiccant. The first print profile (white picture) slits are 2mm wide. The updated (blue picture) is 1.5mm wide.</i></p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.69%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/809741/2024-04-03_8d36d08b0cce7.png"></figure><p>For my first model on MakerWorld, this AMS desiccant holder provides a clean fit and finish that snaps into the AMS so nicely, you&#39;d think this is what Bambu Lab had originally intended. Using color-indicating desiccant with this model makes it easy to see when it needs a recharge, and the large opening on the back is protected by a U-shaped cantilever snap-in cover to make sure those desiccant beads stay where they belong until it&#39;s time for a change.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Keeping your AMS dry has never been easier…unless you like to fidget with plastic snap fits, in which case those satisfying clicks may keep you standing over your open AMS longer than intended.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This model was created from scratch, but inspired primarily by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/409676-bambu-lab-ams-rear-desiccant-refillable-tray" rel="nofollow noopener">Mikyleee&#39;s similar model</a> (printables.com link).</p><h3>Printing</h3><p>I printed in PLA with the 0.20mm Standard profile. Supports are NOT needed on the interior, but they ARE needed on the rear snap fit and along the front, as well as a couple underneath.</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:43.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/809741/2024-03-06_f15fe781ce57f.png"></figure><p>The bottom cover is small and the end of the cantilever snap does not have much contact with the print bed. Print this part slowly to avoid adhesion issues. <strong>You should not need a brim!</strong></p><h3><i>“Critical feedback is always appreciated”</i></h3><p>I have never done a snap cover like this, and I know it is far from ideal. Posting your makes and comments encourages me to improve. Tell me what you think!</p>

Snap-in AMS Desiccant Holder

Emvi 3D

180° Print in Place hinges

Bits

benlevi

<h2>BLV - AMS Riser for X1C V3.1 Final</h2><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td style="background-color: hsl(0, 0%, 30%)"><h3><span style="color: hsl(0,0%,100%)">Introduction</span></h3></td></tr><tr><td><p>I&#39;m Ben Levi, and I want to talk to you about this BLV AMS Riser that I designed:<br>So, when the AMS is sitting on top of the printer, you can&#39;t really see what the printer is doing, and you can&#39;t even open the top glass cover to let some air in when you&#39;re printing High temp stuff. basically, something that will hold the AMS and free your Glass top cover will be a good solution for that. Now I&#39;ve seen some similar AMS risers before, but none of them really wowed me.. i think..</p><p>That&#39;s why I decided to come up with this sleek BLV AMS Riser design, easy to use, easy to put together, and reliable. I even added two handy drawers for your tools and stuff, a special shelf that can hold up to 4pcs Build Plates, built-in Dual LED strips. Sure, it took me a while, but I got it (almost..) done.</p><p>As some of you may know, I love contributing to this wonderful community, which is why I chose to share with you my project without any fee or money. Among other things, I&#39;ve also given you access to the original CAD files (F3D,STEP) so that you can easily make changes, add, and improve as you see fit. Please, if you publish a remix, make sure to link it to the original project as a remix so that others can benefit from your effort. I kindly request not to use the files for commercial purposes without explicit permission from me.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Thanks,<br><strong>Ben Levi</strong></p><p><a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/BenBLV" rel="nofollow noopener">If you want, buy me a beer </a>:)</p><p>&nbsp;</p></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 58.95%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-09-25_370cc55ef0c1d.png"></figure><h2>Main features</h2><p>These are just a few design features I&#39;ve planned. If you have more ideas, please share them with me, and I can incorporate them into the design. Also, feel free to add remixes (CAD files are available for download).</p><ul><li>Easy installation</li><li>Dual LED strip<br>installed in optimal angle for LiDAR.</li><li>AMS riser</li><li>Top glass Holder</li><li>2 drawers for tools (with version for tools)</li><li>4 x Build Plates holder</li><li>Rubber Gasket for the glass</li><li>Customised Panels</li><li>access to original buttons</li><li>No screws required</li><li>CAD files available (F3D,STEP)</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 92.39%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_18d41f48cf37f.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_a237ff37d0da5.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h2> </h2><h2>How to print and where to begin?</h2><p>I must admit, if you&#39;re in search of a quick two-hour print and you&#39;re finished, this may not be the right place for it. To initiate and successfully complete this project, a considerable amount of filament and time investment is necessary. Here are the essential resources you&#39;ll be required to invest:</p><figure class="table" style="width: 70.13%"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><p style="text-align: center"><strong>Printing Time</strong></p></td><td>70~85 print hours - including color switching!</td></tr><tr><td><p style="text-align: center"><strong>Printer</strong></p></td><td>X1 Carbon, P1S, P1P, X1 or Other + AMS (Optional).</td></tr><tr><td><p style="text-align: center"><strong>Filament</strong></p></td><td><ul><li>2 kg - PLA/PETG Main filament color (GREY)</li><li>0.5 kg - PLA/PETG Secondary filament color (GREEN)</li><li>14 g - PLA/PETG Black filament for text (BLACK)</li><li>34 g - TPU flexible filament for your Gasket (BLACK)</li></ul><p>* Feel free to choose your own colors.</p></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 98.07%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-04_77b29f1dbec36.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>I tried to keep the project in as few parts as possible and minimize the use of screws and glue. I&#39;ve also included three images that show all the parts and file names to help you easily know what to print and what to remove. <strong>Click on the pictures to enlarge.</strong></p><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_5539d72c1e42.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_1698b67225759.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_34f66213cbfb2.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Printing settings</h2><p>Under each file name, I&#39;ve added a recommendation on how to print that component. Please note that these are just suggestions, and you can choose the filament type, infill percentage, and wall count according to your preferences.</p><p>Additionally, I&#39;ve attached an image below that illustrates how to orient each component on the print bed for optimal results <strong>(click to enlarge):</strong></p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_c8a5b6a960393.jpg"></figure><p>Please note that you will find in also wonderful print profiles from the community too :)</p><h2> </h2><h2>Assembly instructions</h2><p>I think the best way to demonstrate the assembly is through a video. Therefore, I&#39;ve created a short animation video for you that illustrates the assembly process and the sequence of the project&#39;s components. Enjoy:</p><h3> </h3><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_f7b5fb7649351.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_0604a5a98bf6d.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_4edcdff3d535e.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_f3764fb52c104.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_7b9abe53ec9f3.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_611a02308f5c5.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_d8d2275f63acd.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2024-05-03_f59c54b41a2bd.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h3>Buttons assembly:</h3><p>Please print x2 Button insert.stl files and assemble as the photo below:</p><p><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-09-29_89172a00d321c.jpg"></p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Recommended Remix:</h2><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/27690#profileId-24067" rel="nofollow noopener">Front Panels for P1P remix</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28098#profileId-24385" rel="nofollow noopener">new Drawers with Clean look and version with Text</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28948" rel="nofollow noopener">Spool Holder add on on the rear</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/29315" rel="nofollow noopener">Honeycomb panels for the sides</a></li></ul><h2>Links:</h2><ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dk1tOEL" rel="nofollow noopener">COB 5mm Dimmable LED strip</a> suitable to the project.<br>please make sure to choose: “white” and “Strip-USB Button” options.<br> </li></ul><h2>Colors ideas:</h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 59.65%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-01_5f2218eae1ea7.jpg"></figure><h2>How to download CAD (f3d,Step) files:<br><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-03_16ad19d8f61ba.jpg"></h2><h2> </h2><h2>Selected User makes:</h2><figure class="table" style="width: 90.79%"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><colgroup><col><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-04_3aaa07d5a3c1e.png"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 86.34%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-03_f5f9b0b8d1086.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-03_ee05726581f83.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 100%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-01_8efeadcf004be.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 79.61%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-04_c0866329e4121.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 92.92%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-01_f106d497bd601.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)" colspan="3"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 94.67%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-01_d8fbe88a9ea.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border: 1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%)" colspan="3"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019535/design/2023-10-01_0d0d9ff1ec084.jpg"><figcaption>click to enlarge</figcaption></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td style="background-color: hsl(0, 0%, 60%)"><h2><span style="color: hsl(0,0%,100%)">Changelog</span></h2></td></tr><tr><td><ul><li>19/9/23 - published first prototype. not meant yet to print.</li><li>19/9/23 - uploaded v1.1 with angled glass holder and fixed Size drawer, stronger rear part.</li><li>23/09/23 - Left/Right/Rear Panel edges optimization for better surface finish.</li><li>24/9/23 - Huge update v1.2 !<ul><li>Extreme optimization to main parts, now it&#39;s 6 parts but much less support and faster to print.</li><li>Added wire channel for the LED&#39;s wires.</li><li>Added lock pins to TPU gasket.</li><li>new secure method to front and rear parts in addition to the dovetails.</li><li>Optimization to all decorative panels.</li><li>2 x Button frame cover with logo for P1P and P1S.</li><li>increased glass holder degrease to prevent movements.</li><li>Deeper AMS leg&#39;s socket, securing the AMS in it&#39;s place.</li><li>Added special drawer with accessories. it has a place for the H1.0-H2.0 HEX keys, 2 x Hotends, 5 cutters, 4 x wipers, screws, glue and needle.</li></ul></li><li>25/09/23 - updated new version 1.3 with measurements fix.</li><li>29/9/23 - added 2 remixes: clean front drawer, drawers with text, Dash front parts for P1P.</li><li>29/9/23 - added Button insert.stl + button images assembly.</li><li>30/9/23 - remix section update! spool holder, honeycomb panels added.</li><li>4/10/23 - New optimized slicing profile! faster, less filament, better support!</li><li>02/03/24 - added more support to side model.</li><li>04/04/24 - changed print profile for wider base.</li><li>22/05/24 - optimized structure for vibrations.</li><li>31/05/24 - changed Internal structure to be more rigid.</li><li>29/06/24 - added BOM items<br> </li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>