I have used a bunch of these over the last year. I print them in PLA and PETG without problems. I've used a bunch of the pegboard hooks though I consider them single use because I can't get them out without breaking off the bottom peg.

Easy print with dry TPU and they fit well. All the lids have a better seal now.

Great model, prints cleanly and they are very handy. I use them to hand rolls of tape on my garage Multiboard wall. I printed some in PLA last fall but I don't know what I was thinking, summer is coming and it gets very hot in there so to be safe I've reprinted them in PETG. Most of mine are 200mm. It's very simple to lengthen them, just scale them on the long access, with "Uniform Scale" deselected.

I printed it 4x in a couple of different PLA filaments. They all came out nicely. You might have to fidgit with them for a while until all the pieces slide a independently. Keep in mind that when printed in basic or matte PLA it is not silent and the sound of plastic on plastic can be difficult for some people.

Printed perfectly the first time and everything fits together without a problem. The pieces slide down without hanging up and it's sized well for my old hands and the small hands of the grandkids.

Printed this for a checker board to play with my grand kids and am very happy with the results. I took your advice and tested the fit first and boy am I glad I did. I ended up using a 0.2 x-y compensation factor to get the base to click together firmly, it took 5 test prints. I'll post a picture tomorrow. As a side note: the test pieces don't need to be so wide, they waste time and filament. I ended up using a negative part to reduce them to the dovetail and 1 or 2 cm of additional width.

I like these, they are simple and are easy to handle. I scaled them up to 38d and 20h for young smaller hands and old less dexterous hands. I printed using a matte black PLA for the first 12 pieces and silver silk PLA for the other 12 pieces on a P1S. I printed very (very) slowly with a 0.12 or 0.16 layer height, concentric top and bottom surface patterns, no supports and minor variable layer height and smoothing adjustments. The tops, sides and the bottom (part that touches the build plate) look good but at this size the bridging in the recessed center is noticeable as fine horizontal lines. I think the layer height and very slow printing saved me from having an unacceptable result because of the bridging. If I decide to print these again I'll probably increase the weight by increasing the sparse infill to 100% on the first half using a height modifier. I believe printing these with the designers profile would give you a nice functional result.

Yes, it's very loud.

Very nice model. Not too complicated to print and with the assembly instruction, simple to put together, just pay attention to the orientation of each piece. It's best assembled with glue so it took me a few short build sessions to complete. I printed it on a P1S with matte PLA for the black and white, the grey parts where either PLA or CoPE and the red is a True Red PLA. The launch tower is next. This model has emboldened me to build an Artemis II at 1:100.

These are very helpful, better than toothpicks. I squeeze a drop of glue onto the flat end and put it exactly (sort of) where I need it. Less glue on me and the right amount where I need it. Print a lot of them so you can use a clean one on each new surface.

I'm finding uses for these in many places, mostly for things long and narrow. Because the threads are big they can scale well. I'm currently printing it x,y scaled to 63.5mm and a little over 50cm long. I've used Bambu Studio to cut down (not scaled) the middle tube to get me closer to the final ~50cm I need. The final count is a top, bottom and two middles.

it’s an easy print with a lot of filament swaps. Make sure you have ample flushing volumes to keep the black of the eyes from bleeding into the yellow.

Grand children loved them, their parents, not so much. No printing issues, during assembly the threads had to be worked progressively on one grip before the stem would seat completely. If your plate has good adhesion let it cool before removing the rotors, especially if you are printing the rotors in a silk filament.

Great print. No printing or assembly issues. The boots toes didn’t stay attached, I ended up printing the a 2nd time.

Printed a 5x4x5 case in PETG to store my P1S parts and tools. No problems at all. I found that @Team_k's comment that not all gridfinity bins are to spec, to be true. I've had the best success with the bin generator from Perplexing Labs using non-matte filaments. For the box and lid I used old and ugly filaments that were lying around so I'm not going to post a picture

I printed the 100% model. There were some seriously tight fits. When using the pictures as a guide look very closely for details and orientation, there are some very slight differences between similarly shaped parts that are important.

Single color printed well quickly.

Printed well in PLA and PLA+.

I like this drybox and have printed about 6, most of them using a Sun-Lu Transparent PET-G. The shape and size work with all my plastic spools, a tight fit with the cardboard spools and not at all when the cardboard spool has an edge ring. Using the default setting the viewing window wasn't clear enough so to make the window more transparent I used modifiers to slow down the printing and set the sparse infill to 0%, the difference is significant. I'm not sure if the 0% sparse infill setting is going to affect how long the box keeps the RH low, I'll update this comment in a month. Green is without modifier and yellow is with modifier. The picture was taken right under a lamp, the difference is more significant when there isn't as much light.

I've printed 3, one for each grand child. Post processing is filament dependent, but it needs very little. I had to play with the supports for the wheel and ended up setting it to Tree Slim supports with a 15 degree threshold. I use Polymaker Panchroma CoPE filament as the support interface but PETG works almost as well. Just remember to take it off the bed and remove the supports as soon as the bed has cooled a few degrees, otherwise you could end up with little support dots inside the wheel. where you can see them. I used school glue on the bed when I printed the part named cover and again used Polymaker Panchroma CoPE for the support interface, when I peeled the part off the bed the support stayed on the bed leaving me a nice clean cover.