Chan Eil Fhios

Bellero

Crafted through the precision of 3D printing technology, our FloralElegance collection brings you more than just a vase – it's a seamless fusion of art and functionality. Immerse your living spaces in the allure of contemporary design with our spiral vase, a captivating piece that transcends traditional boundaries. Unlike conventional glass vases, this 3D-printed marvel boasts an innovative organic-inspired design that effortlessly transforms any room into a haven of modern sophistication.&nbsp;Place your favorite blooms into this unique vessel, and watch as it becomes a focal point, adding an extra layer of aesthetic charm to your home. The intricately detailed spiral pattern is not just a visual delight but a testament to the limitless possibilities of 3D printing. Each vase is a statement in itself, combining form and function to create a mood-setting addition to your interior.&nbsp;Whether adorning your dining table, living room, or office space, our 3D-printed spiral vase is more than a mere decorative item – it's a conversation starter, a symbol of innovation, and a testament to your appreciation for cutting-edge design. Elevate your decor with FloralElegance and let the artistry of 3D printing redefine your living experience.&nbsp;113 mm x 200 mm

The Vase

Decor

RJ Design

The Design&nbsp;Building on the well received impossible passthrough illusion. This is Version 2&nbsp;It fixes the problems present in the first Design. &nbsp;No more messy overhang, a good slide straight after printing, and much better bed adhesion. &nbsp;This is a fun piece and can be used as a fidget toy as well&nbsp;Dimensions are approximately: diameter 46mm x 50mm&nbsp;Let me know if you experience any issues.&nbsp;If you enjoy this print consider giving it a boost (It&#39;d really help me out!)&nbsp;Printing&nbsp;The Print Profile should be used if possible. The hour glass object should have auto tree supports enabled to 30 degrees, and a layer height of 0.16mm, the barrel shape should have no supports and a layer height of 0.2mm &nbsp;It is set up to print by object (1 part then the next) &nbsp;&nbsp;My WorkAfter many years in Engineering, I&#39;ve just decided to try and follow my childhood dream of becoming of a Creative Designer.A Creative Designer of what? No idea! Right now I really like puzzles, mechanisms and kinetic sculptures so that&#39;s where I&#39;m going to focus my efforts.&nbsp;Boosts really help me out&nbsp;To support me even more (not ever required), for information around development of my models (background to come) and for commercial use, i&#39;ve started a patreon here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/RJ_Design" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/RJ_Design</a>

Impossible Vortex Passthrough illusion - Version 2

Cool!

BeeTee 3D

Why are there so many songs about rainbows And what&#39;s on the other side? Rainbows are visions, but only illusions, And rainbows have nothing to hide. So we&#39;ve been told and some choose to believe it I know they&#39;re wrong, wait and see. Someday we&#39;ll find it, the rainbow connection, The lovers, the dreamers and me. Who said that every wish would be heard and answered when wished on the morning star? Somebody thought of that and someone believed it, and look what it&#39;s done so far. What&#39;s so amazing that keeps us stargazing? And what do we think we might see? Someday we&#39;ll find it, the rainbow connection, the lovers, the dreamers and me. All of us under its spell, we know that it&#39;s probably magic.... Have you been half asleep and have you heard voices? I&#39;ve heard them calling my name. Is this the sweet sound that calls the young sailors? The voice might be one and the same. I&#39;ve heard it too many times to ignore it. It&#39;s something that I&#39;m supposed to be. Someday we&#39;ll find it, the rainbow connection, the lovers, the dreamers and me. La, la la, La, la la la, La Laa, la la, La, La la laaaaaaa&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you&#39;ll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS&#39;s to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that&#39;s just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you&#39;ll need to research how to do that on your own, because I&#39;m not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I&#39;m weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like &#34;light blue&#34;.</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that&#39;s intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don&#39;t care, I&#39;m not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you&#39;re placing it on a flat surface.  If you&#39;re hanging it on a wall, you don&#39;t need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that&#39;s what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I&#39;m not your mom.  </li><li>Once you&#39;ve got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol&#39; PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it&#39;s assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you&#39;re British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you&#39;re going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can&#39;t decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what&#39;s called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there&#39;s neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There&#39;s also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn&#39;t matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that&#39;s still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you&#39;re buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that&#39;s just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don&#39;t want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you&#39;re ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it&#39;s lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you&#39;ll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here&#39;s the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you&#39;re only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you&#39;re done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What&#39;s the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I&#39;m not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Kermit the Frog LED Lamp

Frogs

JDJDJD

The Smoothy Mount is the official mount designed for use with the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/18174" rel="nofollow noopener">Smoothy PTFE Bowden Y Connector</a>. The Smoothy allows you to use an external spool with your Bambu Lab machine without disconnecting your PTFE Bowden Tubes.&nbsp;The Smoothy can happily rest inline without a mount which has some advantages, but some users have requested a mounting method so I'm delivering for you!&nbsp;The Smoothy Mount features a universal mounting design so it can be used with either an M3x8mm screw or magnets.&nbsp;Having the mount separate allows for easy removal of the Smoothy without removing fasteners like screws, etc.&nbsp;I've designed a couple images with placement ideas but the location and method is up to you.&nbsp;The screw mount is most secure, while the magnets allow for more flexible placement. On the X1C, the screw hole closest to the outside edge of the machine works best.&nbsp;Several magnet sizes are now supported for flexibility (see files). The magnets need to be fairly strong. If you don't have strong magnets, I recommend the screw mounting method.&nbsp;The Smoothy Mount is compatible with Smoothy models that have flanges at both ends, which includes:<ul><li>Smoothy V2 PC4-M6</li><li>Smoothy V2 PC4-M10</li><li>Smoothy V1 PC4-M10</li></ul>If you have a Smoothy V1 M6 with no flange, simply upgrade to a Smoothy V2 and you'll be good to go!<h2>FEATURING:</h2><ul><li>No Supports</li><li>No Brims</li><li>No Overhangs</li></ul><h2>NOTES:</h2>I printed all tests successfully with the following:<ul><li>Nozzle: 0.4mm</li><li>Layer Height: 0.2mm</li><li>Walls: 4+</li><li>Infill: Gyroid</li><li>Brims: Disabled</li><li>Supports: Disabled</li><li>Orientation: Vertical, wide side down</li><li>Glue Stick: Yes</li><li>Bambu Lab X1C</li><li>Cool Plate</li></ul><h2>UPDATES:</h2><ul><li>Support for several new magnet sizes has been added!</li></ul>The Smoothy can be used commercially, but can't be resold.&nbsp;Enjoy!&nbsp;Download The Smoothy PTFE Bowden Y Connecter here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/18174" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/18174</a>

The Smoothy Mount - For The Smoothy Y Splitter

ProjectSkyDroid

Full front and back case for Samsung Z Fold5 with integrated s-pen slot.I wanted a case that could provide decent protection, while also allowing me to have the s-pen attached. The problems I encountered with other cases were that the official Samsung version is just crazy expensive at $99, so not interested. 3rd party versions were ‘ok’, but i couldn't find a decent option that got the s-pen to be almost completely flat within the case and not have a giant hump where the pen is held. This was important to me because I wanted to retain the ability to place the phone in a car mount, and not have to remove the pen because it didn't sit flat enough in the mount. Other options I explored were cases that move the pen holder to the side of the case, which I found to be terrible to hold the phone and interfered with things like the fingerprint reader.&nbsp;This is what I came up with after a lot a testing and adjusting the sizing of various aspects taking some inspriations from various different cases and trying to pick the best aspects and improve on things. I printed mine in PLA-CF and have been using it for several months and hit has held up amazingly. While not required, I would highly recommend affixing some thin double-side 3m tape to the inside face of the case, which keeps things nice and snug and keeps the case from shifting at all during every day use.&nbsp;As designed, it has been fine-tuned to not interfere at all with the opening and closing of the fold. You'll also notice a tappering on the front casing near the finger print scanner. This is something I add after first attempt to minimize any interference of the fingerprint reader by surrounding case. It completely resolved the initial issue I had, and work fine with my fingers at least.&nbsp;The profiles provided and the orientation of the cases have optimal support and positions settings to allow for a nice clean print and easy removal of supports. Using PLA-CF I did not have to use an alternate support material, and the supports separated cleanly with little effort.&nbsp;Using with this pen:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CDV81GPZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon.com: Galazy Z Fold 5 S Pen Fold Edition,Z Fold 5 Slim S Pen, Replacement for Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5+Tips/Nibs (Black) : Cell Phones & Accessories</a>

Decor

Cool!

Frogs

x1c

Phone