user_3912024974

DanielN

Card wallet for 5 cards. Durable design with easy assembly. Designed for bolts and nuts to be protruding from the case for a nice and bumpy feel.&nbsp;Material: <ul><li>Your choice! The model have been tested with PLA, PLA-CF, PETG and PA-CF.  </li></ul>Printing instructions:<ul><li>Frames are printed flat side down, and with support.</li><li>Clips are printed as figure 1 shows. Can be printed in TPU. There are two alternatives for how tight you want it to hold the cards.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477589/design/2024-05-28_22c2fd76d71e9.png"><figcaption>Figure 1 - Printing orientation of clip</figcaption></figure> Hardware needed: If you can source fasteners by yourself:<ul><li>9 x bolts, M3 x 8 mm. Preferably with head diameter 5.8 mm or less. Head thickness should be around 2.4 mm for it to barely be raised over the cardcase.</li><li>9 x nuts, M3 - preferably thickness no more than 2.25 mm.</li></ul>If not, the model is compatible with the BOM with fasteners from Bambu Lab Store.&nbsp;&nbsp;Installation of clip:Clip is placed as shown in figure 2. You can also use glue to keep it in place so it does not make sound when the wallet is empty.   <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000477589/design/2024-05-28_1d7c384c6137d.png"><figcaption>Figure 2 - Clip mounting</figcaption></figure> Good luck!

Card wallet for 5 cards

Wallets

kisik20

New info: some including me wanted to create a smoke absorber for soldering, here is a new project:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/495413" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/495413</a>ENJOY&nbsp;INFO: Hi guys, i have news for you. I made new crocodile clip. Clip is smaller and bether for work. Enjoy Clip is here:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/492860" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/492860</a>&nbsp;Soldering Tool Holder. Adjust the support pipe arms, regulate the whole project. When 2/4 arms needed, only adjust the base arms, very convenient to change the height, angle of gripping without tedious and stiff to adjust arms one by one, or put items off and put on to change the orientation. More freely than traditional single helping hands arms and protect your precise item.&nbsp;1.The three to six hand tool quickens soldering,electronics, and DIY projects allowing you to finish your work faster than ever before! Our Third Hand makes positioning a breeze with2.base save space,Easy to carry,Free hands3.alligator clip tips for 360 degree rotation for easy operation and work4.Super compact design for an ultra portable third hand tool5.Very suitable for the complex difficulty welding such as model airplane repair, easy to clamp the solder and operation.

Soldering Tool Holder Flexible Arms helping hands

Tools

LayerCake

A basic Gridfinity Parametric Container done in Autodesk Fusion and now updated with an identical OpenSCAD project for even easier customization.&nbsp;Based on the excellent Gridfinity system by Zach Freedman Wiki: <a target="_blank" href="https://gridfinity.xyz/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://gridfinity.xyz/</a>&nbsp;Differeces from the standard design:<ul><li>The lip has an added 0.4 mm flat section on top.</li><li>The screw holes are tighter and have a step pattern for better printability.</li><li>The base units can be overwritten which breaks compatibility but can use all space available.</li></ul>Some preconfigured models were added in height increments of 3U ranging from 1x1x3 to 4x4x9.For other sizes just use the Customize button or configure your own through Autodesk Fusion. Please do not share print profiles here that break compatibility. Label print profiles well according to their settings. All profiles shared by me use the default settings aside from gridfinity units.<h2>OpenSCAD</h2><h3>Customization Options</h3>The basic customization starts at the width, depth, and hight of the container in gridfinity units. Additionaly the hole pattern for screws and magnets can be configured or completely removed.On to of that the base units for the grid can be redefined. This will break compatibility with the standard gridfinity baseplates etc. but will allow for much more flexibility when filling a drawer completely with containers.An equally modifiable base grid can be found in my other models <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/476846" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.<h2>Autodesk Fusion</h2><h3>Configuration</h3>Open the file in Fusion and adjust the size as needed.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000025376/design/2023-09-27_j5pt2zi2pyal.png"></figure>By default the magnet hole diameter is tighter than the standard 6.5 mm of the Gridfinity design as I found this to fit better. The depth has also been changed from the default 2.4 mm.<h3>Fusion Error</h3>If you design a 1x1 container the file will throw an error but the output should still be generated just fine. This is due to a pattern that no longer can be applied. If there is a way to suppress this let me know in the comments.<h2>Notes</h2>The Autodesk Fusion version was made with the personal version therefore non commercial only.The OpenSCAD version is licensed as MIT.Source files included.

Gridfinity Parametric Container

Gridfinity Stuff

JASAA3D

I&#39;ve always been fascinated with Cthulhu&#39;s design from the first time I saw it. This model was inspired by that fascination. It is designed to print with a .20 layer height and 2 walls. A brim may be needed if your printer&#39;s adhesion isn&#39;t dialed in. You should be able to size up fine, but I personally wouldn&#39;t size down too much, as it may cause issues. I added two print profiles, one at 200mm and one at 250mm. This model printed beautifully on my P1S and I can&#39;t wait to display it!

Lovecraftian

Lovecraft

Krookr

I made this model after looking at other knife holders, which didn't really fit my drawer.This knife holder works fine with PLA or PETG and holds up to 8 knives. You can adjust the size in X and Y axis to perfectly fit the space in your drawer.&nbsp;Standard size is 55m height and 160mm wide.&nbsp;Happy Printing :)

Adjustable 8 Knife Holder for Drawers

Kitchen Stuff

Meister Edel

Heyho :) Some time ago I designed some simple beads for a friends pocket knife.I also use these with my outdoor knives.The design is nothing special but you have some choice and it serves its purpose :)You can print the parts very well with GITD filament or other pop colours. You can let your taste run wild :)My tip: Just try out the possibilities of your slicer! Functions like Fuzzy Skin also look great. Or make the infill a little more visible!es.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:56.64%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/3199084543/draft/2023-08-26_how7iokpq55b.png"></figure>Have fun and keep printin!

Paracord Bead sortiment

Beads

Savo222

<h2 style="text-align: center">A working well for your dioramas!</h2>You&#39;ll need:<ul><li>A marble (or similar) filament</li><li>A wood (or similar) filament</li><li>A metal (or similar) filament</li><li>Kitchen twine (or any wire you like)</li></ul>After printing:<ul><li>Put the “metal” arm in the holes </li><li>Lock it in place by putting the handle</li><li>Wrap the wire on the arm until you&#39;re ok with the result</li><li>Secure the bucket on the other side of the wire</li><li>Put the roof on top</li><li>Leave a nice review with some nice pictures :-)</li></ul>Thanks for printing and have fun! :D

Diorama / props working well

Diorama Stuff

RandyDandy

Screw mounted C-Clamp style with a single cable mount pass through. Use to organize or tidy up cables when not in use. Cable can be pull through when in used and pushed back into clamp once finished.&nbsp;This design was inspired from using a work laptop at home with an external monitor and a USB-C lightning cable.It was used to tidy up the USB cable when not in use and pulled out when need.

Cable Clip Mount

Cable Minders

Vegatype

This is a remix of The Standard 4x5 from Standard Cameras (<a target="_blank" href="https://standardcameras.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://standardcameras.com</a>) and has been shared with permission from the owner Drew Nikonowicz (<a target="_blank" href="https://nikonowicz.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://nikonowicz.com</a>). The bellows and ground glass needed for the camera can be purchased directly from them!&nbsp;I was building the Standard 4x5 when ideas on how to improve the desing started to flow. My goals were to add features, simplify assembly and use more widely avaliable materials. I called this redesign Vega 4x5, in honor of the first star ever photographed. The project file is open and avaliable in .f3d format as i want to make it easy for everyone to modify and customize anything about the camera, i look forward to the community contributions, let's keep film photography alive!<h3> </h3><h3> Modifications List:</h3>&nbsp; • Geometry was mostly simplified as i liked a cleaner look. • 21 metric screws instead of 66 imperial screws of 9 different lenghts/types. • Printed part count was reduced from 24 down to 14. • Better tolerances for the metric rail less play and smoother operation of the sliders. • All files are in the best orientation for printing no need for supports. • Tripod mounting via heat-set insert instead of a tee-nut which seems impossible to find here in europe. • Bigger knobs with a new pattern i found it difficult to tighten the old ones and to keep the files at a minimum i used the same size of knob for all of the camera. • New printed forks allow for more movements: the rear standard now also has rise, fall and tilt, the last of which was impossible to get with a double fork arrangment due to the obstruction of the darkslide (when in landscape orientation). • Forks simply click in the zero position thanks to recesses in the tracks, instead of having to rely on visual marks. • Front standard is now printed in one piece for an easier assembly • New film holder clips allow for changing film orientation (portrait/landscape) while the rear standard is tilted • Simpler mounting of the standards via 2 bolts. • Easier bellows swapping done by loosening 4 screws at the top of the standards. • Rear standard overhang is now 55 degrees as it was difficult printing the original part without sagging. • Spirit levels on both standards for more precise adjustments.&nbsp;<h3> Parts list:</h3>&nbsp;<h4> Fasteners:</h4> • 14x M3X10mm Button Head Screw • 4x M6X30mm Hex Bolt • 3x M6x50mm Hex Bolt • 7x M6 Hex Nut • 1x 20x1/4” heat-set insert <h4> Miscellaneous:</h4> • 1x 25x25x300mm Aluminum Extrusion • 1x 127x102mm Ground Glass • Bellows (specifications found here: <a target="_blank" href="http://manual.standardcameras.com/0_e/" rel="nofollow noopener">http://manual.standardcameras.com/0_e/</a> ) • Large Format Lens • Linhof Lensboard (STLs provided) • 2x 10x10x29mm Spirit Level • About 20cm of 1.5-3mm Elastic Cord • 2x 25x25mm Endcaps The bellows and ground glass can be made, but i highly suggest buying them from the folks over at Standard Cameras, as they are a drop in replacement and it's not easy to source all of the required materials, here's their shop: <a target="_blank" href="https://standardcameras.com/collections/all." rel="nofollow noopener">https://standardcameras.com/collections/all.</a> Other sources are for example ebay or <a target="_blank" href="http://www.custombellows.co.uk/" rel="nofollow noopener">http://www.custombellows.co.uk/.</a> It's also possible to 3d print bellows with 95A tpu, either in one piece with a 400mm Z axis printer (Stl and bellows generator are in the files section) or in two parts, see Kiwi Tinkerer design: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/250318-camera-bellows-in-two-parts-with-modified-vega-fra" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/250318-camera-bellows-in-two-parts-with-modified-vega-fra</a><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:357px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/2310b633-191a-4c91-ac35-a7fabad85bb5/ezgif-2-253f68dc4a.gif"></figure><blockquote>Note: 3D printed bellows made lightproof with 5 coats of matte black plastidip</blockquote><h3> </h3><h3> Printing:</h3>All the models are provided in the best orientation for printing, no supports needed. The following parts need to be printed in black: Front Standard, Rear Standard, Film Holder. Here are the suggested slicer settings:&nbsp; • PLA is fine, but PETG or ASA are better for outdoor use • 0.2 Layer Height • 3 perimeters • 30% Cubic Infill • 5 Top and Bottom Layers • Supports turned off&nbsp;With these settings the material cost for the whole camera is about 780g, at standard speed the print time is about 68 hours, no more and no less than the original files. Printing files are provided for the different materials, all settings already adjusted, divided in three batches.&nbsp;<h3> Assembly: </h3><h4> Rail:</h4><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:714px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ee340fb9-4f52-4dc2-ad34-435104937d61/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/1.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/6a290875-1dd7-41cd-8242-afcbca490c30/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/2.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/0f5c0fb0-6d5a-4473-afdf-e92404e18ec8/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/3.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: To use the heat-set insert even a cheap soldering iron will work just fine. </blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/59ce787d-15ce-40ce-b958-5aa30003d5cd/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/4.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/db002353-d30d-4666-ba8a-7bde4689dde8/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/5.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the M6X30mm bolts before the M6X50mm (Sliders).</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/9b0fe580-f630-406e-a442-60463a4fdf96/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/6.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Make sure that the M6x30mm bolts sit flush and don't tighten the knobs yet.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ed6d0b80-5c4b-4637-abd1-715ae633444d/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/7.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Once you slide the parts on the rail, you can tighten the knobs to lock them in place. All knobs should face the right side of the rail. </blockquote><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4> Forks:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/2e0fa5b0-7245-499a-8e41-16db143f2884/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/8.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/80efded8-6533-4e06-b487-b68ee3e3243f/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/9.webp"></figure>&nbsp;<h4> </h4><h4> Front Standard:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/a62db279-b7f9-4472-a2b2-76e8be954a25/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/10.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: I didn't have the levels on hand, so you won't see them in the other pictures. To mount them you just have to glue them in the slots at the top of the standards.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/3348eb01-a888-47b7-b742-71f063002874/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/11.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Don't overtighten the graflock clip, it should feel solid but still be able to slide.</blockquote>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h4> Rear Standard:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/08be9ee5-7603-46c5-9523-bb134cf34427/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/12.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/2dde62c0-d220-4609-8db7-2044d8086e34/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/13.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Don't overtighten the top clips, they should feel solid but still be able to slide.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/bf0f63ed-21f0-49a6-86c5-35e0ed76044f/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/14.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ab61e233-3661-4c92-bb9e-b6df45e6cb36/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/15.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/304fd392-788b-4af8-90a5-8cd68c675f5a/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/16.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/01a09b78-7ba5-47e8-8150-749e495bd15e/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/17.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Tie a knot on one end of the cord, insert it and make another knot on the other side.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/3d59b93b-03de-4748-8489-002afe741d5c/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/dsc0255.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/1fb0404a-f2d6-4251-b573-3124dc2a1b16/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/18.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the elastic cord in the ground glass holder slots.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/3675320f-c15e-4075-87c3-2dd5ae3ebd76/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/20.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: The film holder can be inserted both in portrait and landscape orientation. to lock the holder in portrait orientation, slide the top clips downwards instead of rotating them.</blockquote><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4> Final assembly:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/32e2de0a-fcf0-441b-916a-dc88925edb28/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/21.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/63bb2cb6-271f-4ca1-bf30-51b5d2ce7892/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/22.webp"></figure><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4> Bellows:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/a627d170-eb60-4aa8-bdba-a9db337dc668/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/23.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the bellows frame in the bottom ridge, mind the frame's orientation. I had to improvise the bellows to illustrate the procedure as i didn't have them at the time.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/e3919a30-4832-4ae8-92bf-6e58d7754db0/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/24.webp"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/f7de86cb-2d1c-4938-9eff-13564277f35b/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/25.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Once you insert the bellows frame, lock it in place with two screws at top of the standard, these will sit just behind the frame. The process is the same for the rear.</blockquote><h3> </h3>Done, you now have your own Vega 4x5! Grab a 4x5 lens, some film holders, a tripod and go out shooting! This camera is very light and can fit in a small backpack, you just have to loosen both standards and remove them from the rail, so it's perfect to carry around. I'd love to see your builds, feel free to upload them in the make section!&nbsp;<h3> How to operate:</h3><h4> </h4><h4> Lens swapping:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/4d14e1e3-d0d1-44ac-bd90-ea9a31c4e314/thumbs/cover/800x534/png/26.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the lower side of the lens board in the bottom ridge. Here i'm using a 35mm lens just to illustrate the procedure as i didn't have a LF lens on hand.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/ae7f2712-b381-4cf4-878b-83b1ca7e240e/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/27.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Once you insert the lensboard lock it in place by lowering the graflock clip.</blockquote><h4> </h4><h4> Exposing film:</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/293a0cc3-ecff-4061-8f30-f6cf23f1a5d4/thumbs/cover/800x534/png/28.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: Insert the magazine between the Ground glass Holder and the film holder.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/55d87e33-57dc-436a-8b9b-58fecde9f38b/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/29.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: When you feel a click, the holder has been correctly inserted and is now lightproof.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/236655/rich_content/43ce4f7d-8d92-4e11-8018-49799150869c/thumbs/cover/800x533/png/30.webp"></figure><blockquote>Note: When you're ready, remove the darkslide and make the exposure. to take out the film magazine pull it backwards to disengage the lock, then slide it out.</blockquote>&nbsp;<h3> Technical Specifications:</h3>&nbsp; Compatible Lensboards: Linhof style Max Front Tilt and Swing: +/- 45° Max Rear Tilt and Swing: +/- 45° Front Rise/Fall: 50mm Up / 45mm Down Rear Rise/Fall: 70mm Up / 20mm Down Front Shift: +/- 30mm Rear Shift: +/- 55mm Weight: 1kg