SpectreGadget

FYI, I have created several other versions.  Print the R4 profile for the new AMS<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/30631#profileId-112717" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Glass Separation LED Riser for COB LEDs</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190027#profileId-209722" rel="nofollow noopener">Glass Separation LED Riser (no AMS)</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190665#profileId-210450" rel="nofollow noopener">Glass Separation LED RIser for COB LEDs (no AMS)</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*** UPDATE 6/25/24 - I&#39;ve recently ordered and received a new NEON-type LED strip that can replace the original I had used.  This one comes with an optional inline switch with remote capability, which is a nice addition.  Without that, it is quite bright.  You can find it on Amazon at <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CVW36X26" rel="nofollow noopener">B0CVW36X26</a>.   It&#39;s a ‘snug’ fit with the R4 profile, so will likely not work with the original “0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill” profile.&nbsp;*** UPDATE 12/18/23 - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/14025#profileId-104675" rel="nofollow noopener">R4 profile</a> now live with these updates:<ul><li>Supports NEW AMS design and should support all AMS designs</li><li>Wider channel for NEON LED strips since the newer ones are a bit wider. Narrower strips may need 3M tape to secure</li><li>Slightly decreased bottom perimeter improve fit for some filaments/settings that may cause some &#39;elephant foot&#39; at the base</li><li>Added small lip at front to keep glass in place for more energetic printer movement</li><li>Increased gap between parts by 0.05mm to make assembly easier for some materials that are less exacting</li><li>Added numbers on the bottom to help with aligning for assembly</li><li>Added Holder Clips to the R4 profile, four on each of the two plates. Brim is enabled for the clips.</li></ul>I originally started to make a riser with vents for when I print PLA, but decided to go a different route. I wanted to meet these requirements:<ul><li>Move the AMS off the top glass</li><li>Be able to vent the top, but keep the glass with the printer</li><li>Easily remove the glass to get into the printer, without moving the AMS</li><li>Add additional LED lights in the form of “neon” type LED strip</li><li>Keep as minimal / minimalistic as possible, with a low profile and not take a lot of filament, &lt;500g</li><li>Keep it all together, avoiding wall mounting or sitting to the side</li><li>No supports required</li></ul>This riser has a second shelf above to hold the glass top, allowing venting, but keeping the top with the printer.The gap between the parts is 0.1mm for the original profile so it&#39;s meant to be a tight fit that stays together. The R4 profile has slightly larger gaps at 0.15mm.&nbsp;If you only print PLA, then printing in PLA will be ok. Best to print in either PETG, ASA, or ABS, especially if your chamber temps get to 50+ as then you are getting close to the glass transition temp of PLA and could cause problems.&nbsp;“Holder Clip.stl” is a clip that can be used to hold the LED power cord along the back before exiting the riser. “Holder Clip.3mf” has 6 of them.&nbsp;The original light strip I used was the vimeepro 5V USB LED Neon Lights Strip 3.3ft neon Rope Lights Flexible Waterproof Neon LED Strip from Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB724ZS9" rel="nofollow noopener">B0BB724ZS9</a>. I like these lights as they provide good additional light without washing things out. If those are not available, you could use the 6&#39; one and cut it short as needed. <a target="_blank" href="https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0B73VGSCL" rel="nofollow noopener">B0B73VGSCL</a>. Availability of these seems to go in and out of stock. I would think that similar “NEON”-type LED strips should work. Another option provided by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@moebis" rel="nofollow noopener">@moebis</a> is <a target="_blank" href="https://share.temu.com/u5L2QMYplFA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://share.temu.com/u5L2QMYplFA</a>&nbsp;

AMS Glass Separation LED RIser

P1SC

ByteSlinger

This is a simple holder to hold a pair of pliers on an Ikea SKÅDIS peg board. There are two designs where the big one has a width gap at the smallest point of the holder prongs of 41.7mm, whilst the smaller one has a width gap of 34.7These are designed specifically for the Draper Redline range, but should work with anything of a similar size and shape.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><a href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/JoshForwood" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/177341/2023-11-16_tdwpc9mc2t55.png"></a></figure>I hope you enjoy printing and using my design. To help me keep designing and uploading more things, you can tip me via 'Buy Me a Coffee' here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/JoshForwood" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/JoshForwood</a> If you're after other Skadis mounts, I've made a collection of <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2704005013/collections/88851" rel="nofollow noopener">my Ikea SKÅDIS designs here</a>.

Pliers holder for Ikea SKÅDIS

Skadis

toonjie

拿petg或者pla打都可以，图片这个是用petg打的。面积大，pla打容易翻车，建议上平台胶。petg无可避免地有拉丝，介意的得手动去除。个人觉得福字向下打印出来更好看。

仿双鱼福剪纸

新年

dkduck

This is a upside down mount for TAPO C110 camera, should work OK with C100 and other models of TAPO.Print with out support&nbsp;Version 2:Re-Designet and tighter&nbsp;Version3:Now with cable management

TAPO Mount upside down for A1 & Mini

实用工具

Silica drying box (硅胶干燥剂烘干盘)

Economy Silica Spool Dry Box 料盘干燥剂盒-极致省料

3kg Spool Holder for R3D 3KG 耗材支架（适配密封桶） 

米桶干燥箱手动进料支架（Filament Manual Feed & Pull Back for Dry Box）