samuraixy

Pab1o90

Full printable gunstock for Meta Quest 3 All You need is 2 magnets 30x4mm (glue or screw) and ~230g of filament.Comfortable with cheekrest.Almost no assembly.I&#39;ve printed it with PLA, 4 walls, 30% cubic infill.Print time ~9hr for full stock.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Quest 3 gun stock full printable + magnet

quest 3

Josh-3D

Check out the other two games in the series<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/140755#profileId-153348" rel="nofollow noopener">Checkers</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/134530#profileId-145997" rel="nofollow noopener">Chess</a>&nbsp;[Update] After getting some feedback, I adjusted the print profile, so the color change isn&#39;t discharged into the infill. I also increased the bottom shell layers. Since the main color scheme of this is white/black/green, it makes sense to reinforce those settings to avoid color bleed. Also added an A1 Mini plate for the Mini users!&nbsp;[Update 2!] Shout out to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/840057458" rel="nofollow noopener">Wcad00 </a>for the added clip![Update 3!] Shout out to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/982974221" rel="nofollow noopener">SoftWareCrash </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/425227684" rel="nofollow noopener">Adminstrator</a> for their contributions. The “Pocket” version, a 50% scaled version, and for a set of Xs and Os, with the Xs cut to fit inside the Os.&nbsp;A Travel TicTacToe game, for those long spans stuck at sea, where you don&#39;t want to risk using a pencil on the side of your life raft! Or uh, you know, any other occasion too, like road trips down the coast with friends, or spending family time playing games!&nbsp;Player piece quantity is setup so that X goes first!&nbsp;The clearance is tight. The X and Os should fit fine, but if your printer is sloppy, it might be a tight fit.&nbsp;&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.&nbsp;&nbsp;

TicTacToe - Travel Edition

board game

mail.iou

Collapsing Katana 袖白雪 (BLEACH -Kuchiki Rukia)This is a telescopic sword inspired by the sword "袖白雪" used by Kuchiki Rukia in the Japanese manga "BLEACH".Updat 2/28/2024 Because the end of the blade is too sharp, some filaments may have different flow characteristics. If after printing, you feel that the end blade is stuck too tightly and cannot be easily retracted, you can apply silicone oil or try to remove the fourth end blade. Reduce the ratio to 0.98, and then print the last blade part. You can also download print profile: "end blade 0.98" directly to print the end blade part. This is a telescopic katana that is printed in parts and then assembled. You can choose to print different colors and strengths for different parts.  The handle is capped to facilitate future maintenance and blade replacement.However, the disadvantage of this is that the printing time will increase.  If you are sure that you can print an all-in-one print, you can refer to my previous telescopic knife work Reverse Blade Sword mini: https://makerworld.com/en/models/114630&nbsp;Notice It is recommended to use PLA+、PETG for printing. If your filament has insufficient strength, please increase the fill overlap to more than 40%.&nbsp;Assembly instructions: 1. Place the blades in order.2. Close the handle cover.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/601737/2024-02-24_6f218b5f4cbbc.png"> 3. Insert two pins to secure.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/601737/2024-02-24_7bd6711ce67e3.png"></td><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/601737/2024-02-24_ece1f43620c45.png"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Remark: 1. If the pin is too loose, you can apply removable glue, such as Styrofoam, to the tip of the latch to facilitate removal during future repairs. 2. Since the flow rate of each brand of filament will vary, the pin may be too thick or too thin. If you encounter this problem, you can adjust the Z height of the pin and print the two pin parts separately. 3. If it is difficult to align the exit hole when the pin is inserted into the tool holder, you can use a blade to push in the direction of the hole to facilitate alignment of the exit hole.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/601737/2024-02-24_383d366365265.png"></td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/601737/2024-02-24_08d21962ae4eb.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/601737/2024-02-24_4f45d2e261b7f.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Collapsing Katana 袖白雪 (BLEACH -Kuchiki Rukia)

swors

Think3D

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm.Start with Black At layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to Blue At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Red At layer #15 (1.28mm) swap to White for the rest.&nbsp;___________________________________________________________________________________If you like my work, please consider a small donation :) Thank you very much :*<a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=RWRXKCAEM86K8" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=RWRXKCAEM86K8</a>&nbsp;

Goku - HueForge

hueforge

Golub17

Update  I have accepted all valid criticisms of the stem model. Even though I tried to make the branches thicker and tested many types of supports, it was not enough. Therefore, I made a new remixed model with my own self-modeled leaves. These are printed on the bed (unlike the old ones in the air) and positioned afterwards using heat.I would like to thank you all for printing, sharing your pictures, and commenting. Now, let me address the licensing and give proper credit to the original creators: Rose (original) - The original model was made by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/marsmathofficial" rel="nofollow noopener">marsmathofficial</a> on Thingiverse and published under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 DEED, which means the model can be shared and distributed in its original form. DO NOT SHARE REMIXED VERSIONS OF THIS MODEL I am also sharing the original model; therefore, I am still respecting the CC BY-NC-ND license the original creator chose. Stem (remixed) - The original model was made by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/richardtracy" rel="nofollow noopener">Richard Tracy</a> on Thingiverse and published under CC BY 4.0 DEED which means the model can be shared and distributed in its original form or remixed. Base (original) - The original model was made by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/richardtracy" rel="nofollow noopener">Richard Tracy</a> on Thingiverse and published under CC BY 4.0 DEED which means the model can be shared and distributed in its original form or remixed. Vase - That's mine, made through MakeMyVase on MakerLab, nothing extra about it. Printing and processing instructions: Rose - should print as it is, i personally like the silk pla look. ;New updated stem (flat leaves) has no printing issues; Stem (old) - this is a tricky one, in an older post here by erin.wang, many had issues printing it. My remix addresses some of these by making the leaf stems thicker and painting custom supports, also, the stem is now longer and looks better in a vase. Print profile has fuzzy modifiers on leaves i personally like them that way. Print instructions: - use high-quality filament, which will prevent 90% of problems - if you encounter any issues, manually set the print speed to 50% (this gives layers more time to cool down) Post process instructions: 1. very carefully remove supports, start by small pieces from leaves and work your way down to the stem 2. carefully trim any excess material  3. use heat to remove stringing (i used a cheap filament your results may be better) and carefully heat the branches under leafs 4. pose leaves to a more natural position while the branches are heated Base - should print as it is, i personally like the fuzzy look. Now something about the rose model, i made myself one modification to it. And that is the hole at the bottom so the final gluing would be easyer. Sadly i cannot share this model with you here or anywhere since the original creator forbids sharing of a remixed model. But i can give you quick instructions on how to do it yourself, that far CC BY-NC-ND cannot reach. 1. Export the model from bambu studio (File - Export - Export all objects as STL) 2. Import in Blender (File - Import - STL) 3. Go to edit mode 4. Select the inner most ring on the underside (use select circle an maneuver around) 5. Press “S” to scale down (move your mouse to scale, click to confirm) 6. Press “E” to extrude (move your mouse to extrude, click to confirm) 7. Export the model from blender (File - Export - STL) 8. Add model to the bambu studio in the original rose profile Even better solution by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2175230856" rel="nofollow noopener">@tweaqr</a>In Bambu Studio Right click on the rose --> Add nagitive part --> cylinder Click OK to the message box Select Scale from the top toolbar and set the size to 4mm,4mm,4mm Select Move from the top toolbar and set the position to X 0mm, Y 0mm, Z-15mm

Rose with Stem (remix)

mother

Bambu Lab

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000013716/design/2023-09-25_28088e30b1c02.jpg"></figure>This 3D-printed mouse has a futuristic hollow shell design, revealing its internal structure. This generative design shell structure is possible only with 3D printing. Our industrial designer fully utilized the advantages of a 3D printed structure to present you with this magnificently artful mouse.&nbsp;Recommended filaments: Bambu PLA series<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament?gf_60645=279355719795" rel="nofollow noopener">https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament</a>If using PLA matte, metal, silk, please slowly screw in the bolt and avoid over-tightening to prevent structural damage.Print Setting: Print without support, v2.0 print profile recommendedHardware Kit: Wireless Mouse Components Kit-002<a target="_blank" href="http://store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002" rel="nofollow noopener">http://store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002</a>&nbsp;Please make sure you clean the build plate before printing and/or applying glue to prevent print failures.&nbsp;Follow the Assembly Guide or video tutorial below step by step to print and assemble your build. Refer to the Design Guide for further design and quality enhancement.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000013716/design/2023-09-15_12b653452832c.png"></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkOg_X4qjW8"></oembed></figure>

Wireless Mouse 002

stuff

Grizual

This is a storage unit for nintendo game cartridges from different formats.Update: There are 3 versions, as the draws are slightly deeper for the gameboy and gameboy advance (3rd version). The 2nd version is just for switch,ds and 3ds

Nintendo games storage holder

games

Galactic Armory

Make your own Galactic Armory themed Spartan helmet!&nbsp;Based off concept art from GC_ConceptArt, this is an envisioning of the classic Galactic Armory logo with a Halo Spartan helmet!&nbsp;The faceplate is able to be removed with the help of 10mm x 3mm circular magnets!&nbsp;Includes both assembled and pre-separated versions for easy printing.&nbsp;Use the visor cutout template to trace an outline on your visor material. Then slot the cut out shape into the pre-modeled ridges on the inside of the helmet!&nbsp;You'll also find the large parts have been pre-cut for smaller printers.&nbsp;If you would like to use these files for commercial use, please subscribe to the "Specialist" tier of my Patreon here: https://patreon.com/galacticarmory

Galactic Armory Spartan Helmet

helms

Mike Crapo

This is a solar finder to help with finding the sun when the automatic sun routine fails. When it is pointing at the sun, the back piece will be in full shadow with a small dot of light in the center. Use the controls on the SeeStar to move around until you achieve this.&nbsp;I have split this into two pieces to help remove some of the supports needed. Print both parts and either fit together with friction, or better yet, glue togeather. If gluing together, make sure you have the back part orientated in the correct position first.&nbsp;WARNING: Do not ever leave this in the SeeStar when it is shutting down. This can damage the SeeStar if it is in place and the SeeStar shuts down and goes to the home position. Creator is not responsible for misuse or damages. Use at own risk.

SeeStar S50 - Solar Finder

SF3DPrints

Anatomically Correct Skull Model.Can be printed in one, two or three pieces.Pieces require support as shown in photos.Model is perfect for a display piece or even science project.&nbsp;Happy printing!

Human Skull, Anatomically Correct

anatomy

SavageLau

<h3>If you want commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon.</h3>&nbsp;<h3>I am here to introduce you, retractable wand! I think it will be a great addition Ornaments for Christmas and in coming holiday season. Bring some magic and best wishes to you all! Have fun, and happy holiday.</h3>&nbsp;It has a wood looking base, and all the components retracting smoothly from the base. It is very simple to printing and reletively fast. total of 58g of filaments and 2h30m printing time. No support needed.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:59.27%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/652871/rich_content/764fe838-ba4c-4c36-8496-b0362f3c071e/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2204aceb04-518d-4fb3-ab7a-08e22df52c94%22%2C%22w%22%3A828%2C%22h%22%3A575%7D"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>If you like other wand design:</h3>Dragon wand:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/135043#profileId-146518" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/135043#profileId-146518</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2024-01-16_dbbeb456e4a18.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Loong wand:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/143028#profileId-155486" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/143028#profileId-155486</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2024-01-16_c35147a62934a.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Update: Revision v1.7, update later. I need to go to sleep. :)</h2>Improved some detail finish out exterior.Improved interlocking mechanism. This is reversion v1.5 I made many test print - revise -test print - continuous improvement process, there are many hours of work behind the scenes to make this model. If you like it, let me know on the comment setction below. I will design a HOLDER for this later, or you can simple just place like this.<h2> </h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:62.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-19_a42a3edcdddfd.jpg"></figure><h2> Printing suggestions:</h2><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/652871/rich_content/5df79618-1f96-4188-bbc2-e37e68fee497/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2271c8ca82-4bed-4cbb-be20-b1b564b19a50%22%2C%22w%22%3A390%2C%22h%22%3A182%7D"></figure>When you printing done, you can push down the rod to release it from birm:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-19_f4de91e35a75c.gif"> Make sure you use brim and increase brim to 15mm, at the same time I suggest to change the brim gap to 0. So it will ensure it will print successfully. If you are printing with WOOD filament, make sure you use 0.6mm nozzle and reduce the flow rate to 0.9. Other wise you may will have issue the filament clog within the nozzle, happened to me... Sad story. Also, wood filament may over extruding and cuse parts not fully extend, make sure you calibrate it!!! If the filament you use shinks a lot, parts might slide out. Pay attention. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.45%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-19_1e1cc9432daab.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-19_4521f10cfbbcb.jpg"></figure><h3>Design:</h3>So, my first retractable design is Bamboo sword. It is fun to play.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:53.71%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_79b228e570cbb.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50.43%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_c1ad57f7061ed.jpg"></figure>Showed it to my boss, and she didn't like the noise when I play it. She said it would be cool if I can design something like Wand. I said, okay. Because she is boss so I have agree whatever she said. I started searching how the heck a wand that she like looks like and get some idea of it. At the mean time, I was trying use similar retractable mechanism from Bamboo Sword design. Eventually, I found the wand style that she like, (credit to Arcan Matteo). So I designed the similar organic look. and it looks very rough, my organic design is not that good. So I started working on retractable mechanism, my boss mentioned she want the wand to be short. So there are a lot of parameters need to be change from larger size one.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_a5a9fa271a7bb.png"></figure>Since the fundamental of retractable mechanism is all about interlocking, with smaller object, the interlocking mechanism design is going to be very ticky.Spend a few hour get design done and first prototype done. But having issue pree parts back on. Tired different filaments, silk and those with greater sinkage rate filament works better, but still stuck sometimes.Went back to the CAD changed the parameter dims, tried different locking mechanism, run the test print, and make revision again.Some different interlocking I have try on this model, FYI, if you want to design something similar.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:45.76%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_164cf76729766.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:44.86%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_e49e57d41ec52.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_2e59b0fef0b35.png"></figure>The most center one have more solid/infill when you printing, is trying to be heavier so when you play it, it will carry more momentum to carry rest of of the parts out. Not much weight increased, but better than none.&nbsp;Some of the fialure one during design, interesting thing during RnD, since this wand have such little size, ther interlock partS will be greatly effect by 0.1mm to 0.2mm parameter differences.(10mm OD good, 10.2mm OD part fly out, or stuck.) So, YOU KNOW HOW I WENT TO THE RABBIT HOLE.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:64.13%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_aa1c94c867d94.jpg"></figure>Here are some of the Okay revisions, but some parts will stuck and hard to press back. I have spend over 20 + prints and trying find out the best tolerance, because I don't want to just post a model out, I want something to meet my standard.So, if you get mad of one failure print on your side, looks those failure testing and my hours behind the scene.I think not only my time, but my bambu printer and filaments desired a thanks, lol.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:64.65%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-25_e4ab554bc16ab.jpg"></figure>Anyhow.<h2>Have fun!!</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/413419/2023-11-19_821b9e9ceb2d4.gif"></figure>

Harry Potter Wand (Retractable) v1.7

toys

SabreDesign

Simple purge bucket with increased capacity. Bucket protrudes 70mm behind the printer.&nbsp;150mm wide 70 mm deep180 / 140 mm tall&nbsp;Printed in Bambu PLA with 2 perimeters (takes 2hrs to print)&nbsp;I also added the fusion360 file if you want to adjust some dimensions.&nbsp;If you want to support me you can join a patreon membership: https://www.patreon.com/SabreDesign&nbsp;Check out more of my designs below and on my profile: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836521/2023-12-27_4dd127cfa82f5.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836521/2023-12-27_2951845da928b.png">&nbsp;&nbsp;