Chen以桐

capsel22

Quick print of a PTFE clip which goes on the cable chain. Prevents the tube hitting the top glass or ams etc.&nbsp;Printer 0.2 layer heigh with 3 walls. Suggest printing it with PETG at minimum.&nbsp;It's designed to be tight fit. I found other designs to have either the PTFE cut out too large and the tube would come out or the lips holding the cable chain to be too small, and it clips off.&nbsp;To fit it, insert the top first onto the cable chain.

Cable Chain PTFE Clip for X1. P1P, P1S 

实用的

BrandedAbstract3D

I just wanted to drop you a quick note of thanks and share a link to the creator that inspired this phone holder. The incredible <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@StepanK" rel="nofollow noopener">@StepanK</a> here on Maker World. Your original creation sparked some creativity on my end, and I ended up doing a simple remix of it. Go checkout all of his new Maker World creations. His work has been a fantastic source of inspiration, and I&#39;m happy to honour that by sharing what I&#39;ve come up with. Thanks again for sharing your creativity with the world.&nbsp;Wanna Sell This and Other Items? Check out my Patreon for a commercial license. <a href="patreon.com/BrandedAbstract3D" rel="nofollow">patreon.com/BrandedAbstract3D</a>&nbsp;Phone holder designed to resemble a Recaro Racing Seat, unique and functional, great for any space. It&#39;s a top conversation starter for anyone who loves cars. Always adds a touch of car scene to your surroundings.&nbsp;To complete the phone holder you&#39;ll need:<ul><li>1 x Seat (printable)</li><li>1 x Roll Cage (printable)</li><li>2 x Support Struts (printable)</li><li>8 x M3 Screws</li></ul><h3>Print Settings</h3>I usually go for the BBL “Standard” 0.20mm settings. It seems to strike the right balance between quality and speed compared to other profiles. I&#39;m a fan of the consistent layer height of 0.2mm, but variable layer height is good too! Feel free to play around with the print quality settings to see what works best for you. I&#39;ve had success with BBL Filaments and various other brands, but for Silk PLA, slowing down the outer walls to around 50mm/s seems best.&nbsp;<ul><li>Seat: Use a 10% grid infill—it&#39;s sturdy enough to hold a phone. I used to two bottom shell layers; once the support struts are fitted, the seat base doesn’t touch the tabletop. And, I set the seam position to “back”. I’ve found it looks more intentional, and you kind of forget it’s there!</li><li>Roll Cage: A 0% infill will save print time and is still pretty strong, even for two perimeters.</li><li>Support Struts: Use a 15% grid infill. This part is mostly top and bottom shell layers, but a good scaffold is needed for the top layers to build on. Important: set the top surface to 50mm/s for a smoother finish! You could turn on ironing, but I prefer seeing some industrial layer lines.</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3>Assembly is a breeze! You&#39;ll get it from just looking at the photos. Insert the M3 screws into the holes and tighten all parts together. Avoid screws longer than 10mm to prevent them from sticking out of the holes in the roll cage. It won’t break anything, but you’ll see the backs of them protruding.&nbsp;Happy Printing!&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/ba3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me A Coffee</a> ☕(Appreciated but absolutely not required)

实用的

好玩的