user_2350866558

Encrust3d

1/26/2026 update: u/Flyrockets informed me of an error that is occurring on Firmware 01.01.50.24 (beta tester firmware) that the nozzle will hit the build plate aligner after the third layer and cause an error, causing the print to stop. I have updated this design to lower the aligner to be 0.5mm above the Textured PEI build plate vs the 3mm it was previously. This shouldn't cause any errors as the third layer should be over 0.5mm in most cases, but I do not have the 01.01.50.24 firmware to confirm. Please let me know if you experience any errors while using this updated design and I will update it again. To easily remove your build plate aligner and update to the new one, remove the old build plate aligner starting with the lober side and simply push it down and off the heat bed.&nbsp;If you are enrolled in the beta firmware program with Bambu, please check your printer firmware before printing. If you are enrolled in the beta firmware program with Bambu, you will need the updated design. If you are not part of the beta firmware program, the original design will work great for you if your firmware is 01.01.01.00 (stock firmware)&nbsp;This is a guide for aligning the build plate on the Bambu Lab A1 printer I designed in Fusion 360. I have been having problems getting my build plate perfectly straight on my new A1 printer so I designed this to clip on to the right rear corner of the A1 heatbed to help align the build plate. This build plate aligner prints in less than 20 minutes and uses less than five grams of filament. This design has been tested to ensure it does not interfere with bed leveling or nozzle cleaning. This design needs to be printed in the orientation I have uploaded it in for proper fit.&nbsp;You can not mirror this design and use it on the left rear side of the bed. The nozzle will hit it when changing filaments or cleaning the nozzle and cause the print to stop.&nbsp;Printing in PLA works, but PETG is the better material to use for this aligner. If you find this model to be a little loose, it is to ensure it can be removed from your bed if you do not want it on anymore. I had numerous versions of this that fit perfectly but had to be cut off to be removed. I do not want you to have to cut this off of your printer if you want it removed.&nbsp;If you are interested in a A1 heatbed cable support clip, you can download it here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/118957#profileId-127976" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/118957#profileId-127976</a>&nbsp;

A1 Build Plate Aligner

A1 Mini Accessories

Hamstah

<h2>WARNING</h2>Extreme caution should be used when modifying hotend plugs. Any damage to the plugs could render the hotend unusable, and any issues causing the plugs to not fit correctly could damage your printer. Please ensure that everything fits correctly when using this model. Please do not use excessive force when installing the grips, and please make 100% certain that the plugs fit correctly in your print head once they are applied. If the plug grips refuse to fit, don&#39;t use excessive force. Calibrate your filament and reprint. Over-extrusion can make it difficult or impossible to install the grips without damaging the plugs.&nbsp;<h2>Description</h2>I frequently change my hotends because I print most of my normal items with my 0.4mm hotend, my high detail items with the 0.2mm hotend and my CF, GF and sparkle filaments with the 0.6mm and 0.8mm hotends. I change them so frequently, I got frustrated with how fiddly it is to change the plugs in particular.&nbsp;These grips significantly speed up the swapping process and also make me much less worried about breaking the connectors on the main board. An additional bonus is it&#39;s quicker to identify my hotends by colour, and you can clearly see which hotend is installed with a quick glance through the window on the side of the printer head.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:32.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_d00e0ee89fc48.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Installation</h2>To apply the plug grips, please follow these instructions carefully. If the plugs don&#39;t fit or you feel like you are using excessive force to install them, stop and calibrate your filament. If your filament is over-extruded, it could cause the plug grips to be too tight to properly install. Please use caution and be sensible when installing this modification.<h3>- Heater Grip</h3>This is the largest plug with two thick, stiff wires.&nbsp;Slide the wings on the heater grip into the two slots from the top. Ensure that the clip on the top of the heater grip is on the top side as in the image below:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_e88b3fa0a2443.png"><h3>- Fan Grip</h3>This is the plug with four wires - one black, two grey and one white.&nbsp;Push the fan plug up through the hole in the bottom of the Fan Grip. Then clip the wings on the fan grip into the slots from the top. Ensure the black wire is on the left and the white wire is on the right when viewed from the top.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_debbe80640624.png"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_9f5326c5509c1.png"><h3>- Thermistor Grip</h3>This is the smallest plug with two thin black wires.&nbsp;Push the plug in sideways into the plug grip as depicted. There is a gap for the wire to rest in. This grip is designed to flex a little in order to allow you to squeeze the grip to release it from the connector on the main board.IMPORTANT: this plug clips into the main board. Do not use excessive force when pulling it out. When squeezed, the plug grip should release the plug from the main board - if it does not, carefully remove the grip sideways from the plug before unclipping the plug from the main board.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_4a958f9e94958.png">&nbsp;<h2>Instructions for use</h2>Once your plug grips are properly installed onto the hotend plugs, install the plugs in the following order:<h3>Step 1</h3>Slide the cable for the thermistor under the cable guard and install the thermistor plug with the cable going downward through the cable channel on the thermistor plug grip as shown.&nbsp;IMPORTANT: This plug is designed to clip into the main board. When correctly installed, you should feel resistance when you gently pull on it without squeezing the plug grip. It is extremely important that this plug is correctly installed to ensure the printer knows the precise temperature of the hotend.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_c5b7719f9c3ca.png"><h3>Step 2</h3>Plug in the heater plug with the top clip on the heater plug facing upward.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_92d7b5c484b64.png"><h3>Step 3</h3>Install the fan plug with the bottom of the grip facing left allowing the wires to come out toward the hotend. The black wire should be at the top and the white wire at the bottom. This plug grip is larger than the others to enable it to be easily unplugged first when removing the plugs in reverse order.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000451390/design/2024-05-02_b5e9ccedec2ea.png">&nbsp;<h3>Unplugging the hotend</h3>Follow the steps above in reverse:<ol><li>Unplug the fan plug</li><li>Unplug the heater plug</li><li>Unplug the thermistor plug</li></ol>As mentioned above, please use extreme care when unplugging the thermistor. If it doesn&#39;t slide out with minimal pressure, you must not use excessive force or you could damage the main board. If it won&#39;t come out easily when you squeeze the plug grip, attempt to remove the plug grip by sliding it to the right before unclipping the thermistor plug.

X1C Hotend Quick Swap Plug Grips

X1C Accessories

Zurlingo-3D

<h2>The Complete Seed Starter Kit - Just Add Soil, Seeds And Water!</h2>&nbsp;Features:<ul><li>9 pot seed tray</li><li>Self watering, levee style hydration system</li><li>Translucent pyramid lid to create a mini greenhouse. Perfect for more exotic seeds!</li><li>Great for windowsills, balcony's and porches</li><li>Designed to use minimal filament - 9 Pot Tray = 87g - Pyramid Lid = 47g - Base = 128g</li><li>Easy to print with no support or AMS needed</li><li>Split into 3 plates that can be printed on any Bambu Lab printer (Including A1 Mini)</li></ul>&nbsp;Usage:&nbsp;<ul><li>Fill the base' with water so that all squares are equal.</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/738629/2024-03-20_7440fee9f69fa.jpg">&nbsp;<ul><li>Place your filled seed tray on top of the base</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/738629/2024-03-20_d91d2f9674301.jpg">&nbsp;<ul><li>Place the pyramid lid on top of the seed tray ensuring it is fully seated in the groove</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/738629/2024-03-20_2ab5f98a958f3.jpg">&nbsp;<ul><li>Then</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/738629/2024-03-20_52bc0ce49fad3.jpg">&nbsp;Extra Info:<ul><li>The ‘Base’ is sliced in a way that should be water tight (up to 6mm high) - So far all of my tests have held water fine.</li><li>Do not over fill the base with water as this will make a mess when adding the seed tray.</li><li>Place the seed starter kit on a level surface. This is crucial for the watering system to function correctly.</li><li>The translucent pyramid lid in the photo examples was printed in clear PETG - Plate 2 is set up for this, so please edit the filament type if you are using a different material.</li><li>The seed trays and the pyramid lid are designed to be no more than 2 walls thick. This allows light to penetrate the pyramid and also helps with the removal of the root block, as the individual pots can be deformed with a squeeze.</li><li>Printing the pyramid with a brim is essential as the 1st layer contact area is very small and will try to warp without one.</li><li>Clean up any brim material left on the pyramid with a de-burr tool or sharp craft knife. This edge needs to be clean in order to fit in the slot located in the seed tray.</li><li>Ignore the ‘floating regions’ warning in Bambu Studio. This is purely related the tray slot which will bridge, absolutely fine.</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;Thanks for looking!&nbsp;If you have any ideas for improvement, please leave a comment below :)&nbsp;Please rate and review your printing experience :P

The Complete Seed Starter Kit

Garden

Kubíno

Witcher wall art

Art/Prints

copyleft

Credit to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@ForestKatsch_154590" rel="nofollow noopener">Forest Katsch</a> for this model. Fits into the Model 3/Y center console wireless charging pads and holds AirPods Pro in exactly the right spot to charge wirelessly.Given the extreme environment in a vehicle, high-temperature filament such as PETG is very strongly recommended (a test print in PLA warped beyond a usable shape within days.)&nbsp;The original CAD model at OnShape is included here, so you can remix to your heart's content. I've built an untested and unprinted configuration that should work with Nomad's AirPods Pro case based off their website specifications, but I have not printed or tested this yet.<h3>Compatibility</h3><h4>Confirmed</h4><ul><li>Model 3/Y with new center console (no cover over the charging pads)</li><li>AirPods Pro (no case)</li></ul><h4>Untested</h4><ul><li>Refreshed (2022+) Model S/X with wireless charging pads (there may be differences in geometry, but this print should work here!)</li><li>Model 3/Y with the old center console (cover over the charging pads) </li></ul><a target="_blank" href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/794a6aa377f03d398914797b/w/24e21d7b062609f5c659e845/e/ba04c6a6cb5babd067572a8e?configuration=List_C1tUGh8UCUtq7o%3DAirPods_Pro__Nomad_&renderMode=0&uiState=65011c70cc21d01f1fc7ba08" rel="nofollow noopener">Fork and edit over at OnShape</a>

Holder for AirPods Pro in Tesla wireless charger

Josh

duck.knapp

I&#39;ve wanted to build an insert press for a long time. then I looked for something that I didn&#39;t have to buy extra parts for and was &#34;good enough&#34;, but again I didn&#39;t find anything...&nbsp;&nbsp;so I developed my own press. You can print everything except 6x 608 zz ball bearings which you have to press in.&nbsp;&nbsp;For assembly you need: - First the 6 bearings are pressed in - join your arms - arms to the headpiece - arms with headpiece to the base&nbsp;&nbsp;It is important to ensure that everything is printed very precisely and does not wobble too much. It&#39;s better to be slightly too tight and grease it than to be too loose. The pins for tapping in should be tested beforehand. They are designed so that they have to be shuttered, but the material should not split apart.&nbsp;It&#39;s not an easy print but I think it&#39;s cool XD&nbsp;Material: PETG, ABS, Nylon or so&nbsp;btw: In the pictures you can see the old arms, now they are different lengthsand as always if you think of something that I can change/improve, please let me know

Heat Set Insert Press (99% 3D-Printed)

Utilities

MingGY

这款模型由多个片段组成，通过铰链相连，能够灵活活动，仿佛一只真实的飞鸟。&nbsp;我提供了两个不同片数的版本，分别是51片和118片。无论您选择哪个版本，都会体验到逼真的飞鸟姿态和流畅的动作。&nbsp;为了提高打印成功率，建议在打印前确保打印板干净整洁。如果可能的话，可以喷洒少量胶水，有助于提高打印时的附着力。&nbsp;在我的多次尝试中，即便关闭 brim ,也能得到不错的打印结果，但每个人的机器和打印板不同，为了提高大家打印的成功率，我还是选择了开启brim ，只需要一把镊子，就可以轻松去除这些看起来很疯狂的brim ，如果你的打印机平时表现足够优异，你的确可以关闭brim。&nbsp;This model consists of multiple segments linked together by hinges, allowing flexible movement just like a real bird.&nbsp;I offer two versions with different numbers of segments: 51 and 118. Whichever version you choose, you&#39;ll experience the lifelike posture and smooth movements of the bird.&nbsp;To improve the success rate of printing, it&#39;s recommended to ensure that the printing bed is clean before printing. If possible, applying a small amount of glue can help enhance adhesion during printing.&nbsp;In my multiple attempts, even with the brim turned off, I still achieved decent print results. However, since each person&#39;s machine and print bed are different, to enhance everyone&#39;s printing success rate, I opted to turn on the brim. Removing these seemingly crazy brims is easy with just a pair of tweezers. If your printer consistently performs well, you can indeed turn off the brim.&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449671/design/2024-05-01_99aa107f3b8b6.png">            <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449671/design/2024-05-01_43904420a023a.png"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449671/design/2024-05-01_ac9ee330d0788.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000449671/design/2024-05-01_9f286fae9755b.jpg"></figure>

Two flexi Bird 

Figures/Statues

Marek Adamczyk @ 3D

<h2>Fidget Counter Toy</h2>So, I wanted to create my own Fidget Toy… not just another dummy button, but a proper working mechanism. I went through multiple prototypes and designs to end up with the Fidget Counter. It is really clicky and snappy and addictive… You can use the pusher/button or just play with the gear - it goes in one direction only. Assembly is easy, just follow the instruction. I hope you will like it! <figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 68.33%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452668/design/2024-05-03_e484d7e8dd6ab.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Mods</h3>NEW Skeleton Cover Mod - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/456500" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/456500</a> Skeletonized version of the top cover allowing you to see the inner mechanism.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452668/design/2024-05-11_2c7719930789f.jpg"></figure>NEW Keyring Mod - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/460815" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/460815</a>Keyring hook you can print in any color you like and attach to the main body.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452668/design/2024-05-11_92d369feb78e4.jpg"></figure><h3>Printing Notes:</h3><ul><li>Please make sure your filament is dry! Wet PLA is becoming very brittle and may cause the tension springs to break quickly. During my tests with dry filaments, I have not experienced any broken spring so far, however, please consider PLA is not the best material for such use and may break anyway after extensive use. Main Tension Spring is designed in a way it can be printed separately and quickly replaced if necessary.</li><li>If you are experiencing corner lifting problem when printing the case, use the profile with brim.</li><li>For both springs I suggest avoiding Matte PLAs or any other filament with additives since those tends to deform much more than a Basic PLA which works well and is springy enough. PETG or ABS should work even better for this purpose.</li><li>I have tested this model extensively with standard 0.4 Nozzle and 0.08mm Layer Height using Bambu Lab and Polymaker PLAs.</li></ul><h3>Assembly Guide</h3>Install the parts in order described:<ol><li>First put Gear Tension Spring [1, violet] - Make sure it is properly aligned with the post. It is press fit so with just a little push it will slide into its place.</li><li>Then goes Big Gear [2, orange] - Be careful with the spring you placed; you will need to pry it a bit to place the gear. It should fit the axis just a little loose, so you can spin it freely but just in one direction. It is supposed to click.</li><li>Next Small Gear [3, green] - Same as big one it will fit axis with some play and both gears should now work together but again just in one direction.</li><li>Then fit Pusher Tension Spring [4, blue] - It should slide in nicely with not much force required.</li><li>Lastly install Pusher Button [5, yellow] - Fit it into place so its bottom will seat on the tension spring and the arm will fit the small gear. Now you can test the whole mechanism even without the top cover.</li><li>Finally, if everything works, you can close the cover. Line it up (watch out for the pusher since it may be pushed by the tension spring to side) and with a little force it will snap.</li></ol><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452668/design/2024-05-03_e91024dc13196.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452668/design/2024-05-03_113e949fb0dfc.png"></figure><h3>Changelog</h3><ul><li>07/05/2024 - Skeleton Cover Mod released.</li><li>10/05/2024 - Designer Profile split into version with and without brim.</li><li>11/05/2024 - Tolerance for Small Spring increased by 0.1mm to allow easier mounting/demounting.</li></ul>

Fidget Counter Clicky and Snappy Toy Assembly Kit

Fidgets

mladen88

21.06.24: added smaller Version that fits on A1 mini&nbsp;I made this Container/Storage for the cable organizer/winder by squinn. This size fits 7 medium sized cable organizers or in my case 5 medium, 1 large and 1 small.&nbsp;In this version I only added the honeycomb pattern.Link to “old” version: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/62199#profileId-64719" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/62199#profileId-64719</a>Skadis version: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/170648#profileId-187318" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/170648#profileId-187318</a>Link to the Cable Organizer/Winder by squinn: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/13849#profileId-13650" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/13849#profileId-13650</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;