Relixtay

Jameswatts1990

<h2>☢ Toxic Waste Lamp ☢</h2><p><strong>Light up your office with a freaky toxic glow using this Toxic Waste Lamp. Inspired by the eerie glow of radioactive waste usually spotted in cartoons. Use </strong><a target="_blank" href="https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/petg-translucent?variant=40926167990332" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong>Bambu Lab Transparent PETG teal</strong></a><strong> for the transparent sections for the best results or experiment with other filaments to get unique glows from this lamp.</strong></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Version 2:</strong></p><ul><li><strong>New more detailed lamp topper with additional and varied bubble design *</strong><i><strong>recommended</strong></i><strong>*</strong></li><li><strong>Bambu Lab LED 001 compatible version also available</strong></li></ul><p><strong>07/02/2024 - 2.1 - Large cutout for LED Kit version to allow switch to pass through without modifying the hole manually</strong></p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>✅ Easy to Print</h3><p>The main body of this toxic waste lamp prints easily, using some minor supports you can get a perfect finish on the overhangs. The colour in the images is <a target="_blank" href="https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte-filament" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Matte Lemon Yellow</a>. If you use the .3mf to print, it has 3 walls to block most of the light and the infill has been removed from the front of the model to limit the shadows produced by light leaking through. Only 2 walls were used in the print in the images.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:23.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/534075/2024-01-28_b05d5b93f51db.jpg"></figure><h3>Transparent Lid and Front</h3><p>The front and top of this model has been designed to be used with transparent filament, although you can use standard filament as well with 1 wall to get a good glow as well. The .3mf has been edited for the transparent pieces to give them a better finish.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The front prints as a 0.6mm thick sheet that is flexible. This allows it to bend and flex in to shape to fit into the supporting sections at the front of the model. As this piece is thin, be careful not to crack it when removing from the bed.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The top pieces will simply slot into place atop the model.</p><h3>💡 Lighting Options</h3><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/534075/2024-01-28_542141ac46344.png"></figure><p>The model has a cutout at the back of the design to allow a <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/488KA2J" rel="nofollow noopener">usb powered LED strip</a> to pass out of in to a battery pack or plug. There is a centre pole to allow you to wrap LED strips around if you wish.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li><strong>Nuclear Waste - LED Strip</strong> = LED Strips/Rope style lighting</li><li><strong>Nuclear Waste - LED Kit 001</strong> = Bambu Lab LED KIT 001 Compatible</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you need to make the hole at the back larger, you can right click the model in the slicer and click add negative part to make a larger hole. You can also do this on the centre pole to remove it, if you are not using an LED strip.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Why not try?.. </h3><p><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/185216#profileId-203919" rel="nofollow noopener">Magical Potion Night Lights and Alchemy Drawers </a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/534075/2024-02-13_814df7d9c3c46.jpg"></figure>

Toxic Waste Lamp - Eerie Radioactive Glow v2

Home

Among3DPrintingGuy

<p>Petrin Tower in miniature as an Model.</p>

Petrin Tower

Modely

PecaCZ

Witcher medailon Cookie Cutter

Christmas

Pro3DTinkering

<p><strong>***UPDATE*** </strong>Since I published this model I have gotten many good reviews and kind words about the model, but also some negative feedback too, they are all precious, because you can do your model even better. After all gathered feedback I realized that the hinge itself was too sensitive to filament stiffness. To eliminate the chance that the hinge will break on first fold only cause your filament differs from the one I tested on I adjusted the hinge and tested on different (Bambu) filaments like: Basic, Matte, Sparkle and Silk</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The glasses case is printed in PLA filament, and the inserts are from TPU. The case does not require post-processing, so the only thing you have to do is fold it along the hinge (after the model cools down) and insert four magnets 8x3mm; make sure you follow the polarity of the magnets (*please note that the insertion of the magnet require some force, it&#39;s made by purpose to hold the magnet in place) <br><br>The most important thing for the inserts is to dry out your TPU filament before printing.<br><br>Please check the result below:</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JpKSkhkOII8"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p><span style="color: rgb(14,16,26)">Feel free to comment and share your prints; it&#39;ll be nice to see them. I would appreciate any feedback!</span></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>To support my projects and gain access to a Commercial License, please consider joining my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/Pro3DTinkering" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> community. Your support helps bring more creative designs and exclusive content to life!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><span style="color: rgb(14,16,26)">Thank you,</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(14,16,26)">Happy Tinkering!</span></p>

Glasses case 

Case

tom.dalby

<p>Simple replacement case for the Sinclair ZX Interface 1. All screw holes in the same place as well as the feet wells (see photo). Uses the same screws as the original case which are</p><ul><li>5x 3mmx12.5mm self tapping counter sunk</li><li>2x 3mmx10mm self tapping counter sunk (to secure the edge connector)</li><li>2x 3mmx14.5mm self tapping rounded head (for attaching to the ZX Spectrum case)</li></ul><p>*added v1.6 of the bottom with some minor tweaks to better align the microdrive edge connector hole and increased the thickness of the rectangle pieces.</p><p>**added new version of the top with the Sinclair logo for those with AMS units</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Needs some gluing to assemble as follows:</p><ul><li>The top edge connector lid needs to be glued to the top part. There is a small ledge on each side of the lid which position it correctly in the top part, just put some glue on and push into place to set</li><li>The bottom part has two rectangle pieces which need gluing to the bottom. There is an indent on both to guide into place, so just a little glue around the lip and hold in place to set.</li></ul>

Sinclair ZX Interface 1 Replacement Case

ZX Spectrum

Basti85

<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtube.com/shorts/A7Fkz_2ANt8"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7Fkz_2ANt8">                        <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;">                          <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A7Fkz_2ANt8" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>                        </div>                      </div></div></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>As my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/58793#profileId-60600" rel="nofollow noopener">initial stargate project (this was my very first upload here some months ago!)</a> was cloned somehow I decided to also add an improved V2 with some modifications.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>What changed:</h2><ul><li>the housing is smaller → less filament usage / less space usage!</li><li>the gate holders are optimized → <strong>may have a look to the second video! assembly of the gates and the holders is now really really easy!</strong></li><li>plug & play with WLED → you can use any board you like. is used this one → https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CLGTSH3N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</li></ul><h2>What do you need:</h2><ul><li>ESP8266 or another board of your choice which supports WLED → <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CLGTSH3N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CLGTSH3N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>WS2812b stripe (60 LEDs/m) with 35 LEDs → <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BTVBTHQ5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>3 single Jumper Cables → <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01EV70C78?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01EV70C78?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li>solder skills (see my first video - it's  very very easy!)</li></ul><h2>The filament I used:</h2><ul><li><strong>transparent eSun</strong> filament for the diffusors. You can also use the <strong>Bambu PETG Basic profile</strong> and have no issues! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FXVGYKL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FXVGYKL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a></li><li><strong>Bambu grey</strong>:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833327323" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/products/pla-matte-filament?variant=43992833327323</a></li></ul></li><li><strong>Giantarm gold silk</strong> as I ran out of bambu gold silk :P. You can also use the <strong>Bambu PLA silk profile</strong> and have no issues!<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RZRJNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RZRJNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a></li></ul></li></ul><h2>Assembly (whole video guided assembly divided in parts):</h2><h3>Solder the Stripes:</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/gyLjdzSCaYQ"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gyLjdzSCaYQ" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3>Assemble the Gates & HOW TO AVOID PITFALLS!!</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/xctYOb-3RC0"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xctYOb-3RC0" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3>Flash WLED to ESP8266 or others:</h3><ul><li>Binary for WLED → <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases</a></li><li>Flashing software → <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/esphome/esphome-flasher/releases" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/esphome/esphome-flasher/releases</a></li></ul><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/8eHOkz7hpJw"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8eHOkz7hpJw" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3>Glue the Board to the Housing:</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/4j-rS6gK9ls"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4j-rS6gK9ls" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3>Assembly of → light shields, diffusors, stripe, gates & housing:</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/YWbgaxmybm0"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YWbgaxmybm0" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3>Configuring WLED:</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/V2wiGpEqLyk"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/V2wiGpEqLyk" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If I forgot anything or if you experience any problems just write me :)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>BR,</p><p>B@sti</p>

Stargate V2 [WLED] - with video assembly guide

sci-fi

vanbluca

<p>Hey guys!</p><p>When I first saw the wireless bambu mouse, I knew I wanted to make one. Unfortunately, I was really bothered by the ugly sudden flat rear of the mouse. I decided to take matters in my own hands and remodel it with a more aesthetic organic shaped round rear. It could be slightly harder to print vs the original design, however I had no issues first try.</p><p>I hope you enjoy this version!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Edit:</p><p>Since my original profile may cause issues depending on your bed adhesive, I have added a second profile with improved adhesion.</p>

Wireless Mouse 002 - rounded rear

Elektro

PecaM6

<p>Flat version of AMS riser. Glass holder STEP file is included. Print from PLA, but if you mostly print high temperature materials i recommend printing from ABS. I connected the parts using steel pins (6x30), but I included pins for print.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you want or need, you can print a reinforcement between both sides. I use one reinforcement in place of the seam, but it isn´t necessary.</p>

AMS riser - flat version

3D components

randki

<p>After posting my first remix, the <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/518255-xbox-controller-starfield-controller-edition" rel="nofollow">XBox Controller - Starfield Edition</a>, I realized that others might want different games shown instead of the one I made. </p><p>So I redesigned the model by placing a couple of voids in the middle of the stands, allowing you the ability to place your own badges on your stand.  There are controller bases for Xbox (2 types), PlayStation 5 (2 types), PlayStation 4, and the Switch Pro Controller.</p><h4>Stand Print Settings:</h4><ul><li>No rafts.</li><li>No supports.</li><li>Layer Height: 0.1 - 0.2mm </li></ul><h4>Badges:</h4><ul><li>No rafts.</li><li>Some require support; check for overhangs.</li><li>Layer Height: I'd recommend a .2 nozzle, or at the very least, a .4 nozzle set to .08 printing.</li></ul><p><strong>Checkout:</strong></p><p>Make sure to check out the <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/564265-magnetic-storage-base-for-badges" rel="nofollow"><strong>Magnetic Storage Base for the PS5 Controller </strong></a>made by jpbear09.</p><h4>Make your own:</h4><p>If you want to make your own badges, I have included blanks, so all you need to do is place your favorite logo on them.  (Thanks to Gummibjorn for the idea!)</p><p>To make a logo, you can find or create a PNG file and then use a website such as convertio to convert them to the SVG format, which you can then import into your slicer (if supported). </p><p>They should be the following dimensions:</p><ul><li>X: 39.96</li><li>Y: 39.96</li><li>Z: 10+</li></ul><p>I have also included a pin to help push out any stubborn badges. Printing it as an STL may require support.</p><p>Notes: There appears to be what looks like a crack that appears in the switch STL version. I looked at it a,nd it appears when I import the original model into tinkeTinkercadrcad. I'll notify the author and see if they have any ideas.  I am printing another copy of the base to see if it appears. Thanks again to Gummibjorn for notifying me about this.</p>

Controller Stand Badge System

Games

Faran3D

<p><i><strong>Single and AMS 4 Color Profiles available now!</strong></i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>A nice clean addition to any collection and a cool place to keep your gear for Mister Torgue's Arena of Badassery, this Borderlands Hyperion Loot Chest features a one click print-in-place solution including a tried and tested hinge and magnetic closure - additional magnets required. This loot crate opens and closes cleanly and smoothly as soon as you remove the tree supports, which only takes a minute as the lid is printed at a 30 degree angle so no internal supports are required! There are a few small supports in the holes in the corners which will require some fine tip tweezers or something to poke them out. Aside from that, you just need 4 6mmx3mm magnets, a few drops of superglue and to remember to put the magnets in the right way (polarity is your friend!) and this wicked creation is all yours!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Come on down and print one today!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you want to drop me a like, grab a download and have a nosey at my other creations while this is printing, go for it! We love feedback so please come back and give this print a rating and show us how you got on!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you'd like to buy me a coffee to support this and future projects, I'd really appreciate it!  https://www.buymeacoffee.com/faran3d</p>

Borderlands Hyperion Loot Crate - Hinge and Magnetic Closure

Borderlands

thegrazek

<p>Since you can name your printers, I named my P1P the P1P-Boy, I wanted a custom nameplate to display this.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Created two coloured versions, one of the classic blue and yellow - and a more military style one with green.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>It's a snug fit, it's not going anywhere, but easy to fit and remove</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I have an A1 and can only print 4 colours at a time. Added a pause after the white was completed to swap it for silver.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you can print more or do not want to change colours, please ensure you remove the pause in the slicer. </p>

P1P/P1S Interface cover - Pip Boy

Fallout

ideat0m

<p>Simply a brush holder. You can use any material, I printed from the rest of the filament.<br>With a 0.28 layer, it is also relatively fast printing.<br>Supports are not necessary, but you can use them if you want.</p><p>***************************</p><p>Jednoduchy holder na štětce. Muzes pouzit jakykoliv material, ja tiskl ze zbytku filamentu.<br>Pri 0,28 vrstve se jedna i o relativne rychly tisk.<br>Podpery nejsou potreba, ale pokud chces, muzes je pouzit.</p>

Brush holder

Tools

Becca_3D PrinterPets

<p>Split head of Kaijumon Charizard. Designed to be printed on FDM printers and tested on Bambu X1 carbon. <br>Scaled up to fit the maximum build plate volume and orientated to require minimum supports. </p>