user_1817972068

SNASA

This is a small and stealthy minimalist heat insert press designed for CNC Kitchen TS100 heat insert set. I didn&#39;t want to use a counterweight so I made an invisible spring and belt system hidden in the vertical part. Its size makes it perfect for small job on the workbench :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.73%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_a86cd65962c1d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.59%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_4f0eadde94f.gif"></figure>&nbsp;The sides are super convinient to store everything you need (there is also a spot for a small alen key).&nbsp;I have added the step files if you want to design your own soldering iron mount or use a different base.&nbsp;Miscellaneous:<ul><li>20 * M3 brass insert</li><li>22* M3x8</li><li>1 * M3x6 screw</li><li>2 * M3 Nut</li><li>3 * M3x25 screw</li><li>7 * M5 nut</li><li>6 * M5x10 or M5x12 screw</li><li>1 * M5x16 thumb screw</li><li>2 * GT2 idle pulley ID Ø3mm</li><li>1 * GT2 belt (200mm should be enough)</li><li>1 * Spring or elastic band</li><li>1 * LML12B 200mm linear rail</li><li>1 * <a target="_blank" href="https://cnckitchen.store/products/ts100-101-adapter-tips-set-m2-x-m3-m4-m5-m6-1-4-m8-100-lead-and-cadmium-free" rel="nofollow noopener">CNC kitchen Heat Insert Set</a></li><li>Optional :<ul><li>1 * M4x8 Screw</li><li>1 * M4 nut</li></ul></li></ul>Assembling:<ul><li>Insert M3 brass insert (see red arrow below)</li><li>Use M3x8 screw everywhere except 1 * M3x25 (see orange arrow below)</li><li>Use 1 * M3x6 screw to lock the spring or elastic band</li><li>Use 2 M3x25 to mount the GT2 idle pulley</li><li>Insert M5 Nut (see yellow arrow below)</li><li>Make sure to run the belt before assembling the GT2 idle pulley</li><li>Use a small piece of adhesive tape to secure the belt on the arm mount (makes it so much easier to mount the belt on the sliding carriage)</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 79.45%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_86b4fd1a3ef78.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 35.29%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_75b2c88e1b92e.png"></figure>&nbsp;Print settings:<ul><li>PETG for the soldering iron holder, other part can be printed in PLA</li><li>Layer height : 0.2 mm</li><li>No support</li><li>Print orientation as shown below :</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.24%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_75456e3a941b9.jpg"></figure>

Minimalist Heat Insert Press

Tools

LoboCNC

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/276656/2023-12-16_dv15l3hbjp4k.gif"></figure>There are a couple of problems with most of the 3D printed flying rings: Firstly, it's difficult to get the right mass distribution with 3D printed plastic. Secondly, they are damnedably difficult to throw with the proper spin, and liable to tear your rotator cuff.This is a rubber band launched version that derives its spin from the angled fins that connect the ring to the central “stick”. The stick itself solves the mass distribution problem allowing you to have a uniformly thin ring, yet still get enough mass out front to locate the center of gravity at the center of lift. And minimal cross sectional area minimizes drag.Launching with a rubber band, however, presents it's own challenges as the lower part of the circular wing wants to hit the launching stick. To solve this, I've used an articulated stick where the business end springs forward out of the way once the rubber band launch tension is released.Note: I've completely updated the launcher so that it releases the glider more reliably.Printing Both the glider and the launcher print without supports. I used 0.2mm layers and have printed this in both in PLA and PETG (PETG is more durable). The ring prints at a single-wall extrusion, so you need to have well-tuned retraction so that you don't end up with any gaps or thin spots in the walls. Lastly use at least 5 perimeter lines and 90-100% infill so that the stick portion prints solid.Assembly The stick should slide into the center of the ring and then bump up against a little stop on the stick. The fins should be towards the back of the glider, with a short section of the stick protruding out the back. (See 1st photo.) You may need to sand any lumps off the end of the stick if it doesn't slide in easily. Use a couple drops of superglue to glue the stick in place.For the launcher, insert the articulated arm into the handle and then shove the pin in one side. It should be a slight press fit, but you'll want to use a drop of superglue on the head of the pin to hold it in place. To make it spring forward, pass a #33 rubber band through the hole, twist the two sides together a few times and then stretch the loops over the handle as shown in the 3rd photo.For the launching rubber band, use another #33 rubber band and looped through the hole in the articulated arm.Launching Hook the “arrow” end of the stick onto the launching rubber band as shown in the 2nd photo. As you stretch it back, it should also cock back the articulated arm on the launcher. Hold the launcher so that the arm is more or less vertical. Stretch the rubber band all the way taut and aim upward about 10 degrees. Then let ‘er rip!Using one #33 rubber band, I've gotten flights about 30+ meters. With two rubber bands in parallel, my maximum flight distance was 57m.Repairs The glider is light and flexible, so it pretty much just bounces when it lands. However, if you hit anything at speed, you may crack the thin ring. Minor cracks can easily be repaired with transparent tape or masking tape. As you can see below, after whacking into a number of trees, fences and walls, the glider can endure quite a few repairs and still fly well.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:42.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/276656/2023-12-16_4fpm0m7o4yeo.jpg"></figure>

AutoGyro Ring Glider

Planes

3dprintdude

This is a kit card of a glider. It glides very well if weighted properly. I made this because I saw many kit card airplanes that did not fly and wanted to make one. It must be printed with a 0.05 mm layer height. If the glider nose dives then print out the light weight securer. If the airplane flips backward print out the heavy weight securer. (also make sure that the wings are slanted back to provide lift. If they are slanted forward then the fuselage sides need to swap)&nbsp;Some recommendations for this print are.<ul><li>Clean your print bed before printing.</li><li>Print with around 5% infill.</li><li>Do not print to fast. (stay near 200 m/s or less)</li></ul>

Glider kit card (flies great)

Drones

Leo-Steiny

This is a small easy print with limited non-printed parts.&nbsp;Parts List (Non-3D Printed)<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/FLASH-HOBBY-1300KV-Brushless-Multicopter/dp/B08MKLCVNN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=22ELZY2T6K9GT&keywords=flash%2Bhobby%2Bmotor&qid=1707527691&sprefix=flashhobby%2Bmoto%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-4&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/FLASH-HOBBY-1300KV-Brushless-Multicopter/dp/B08MKLCVNN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=22ELZY2T6K9GT&keywords=flash%2Bhobby%2Bmotor&qid=1707527691&sprefix=flashhobby%2Bmoto%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-4&th=1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/1300mAh-Battery-Airplane-Shredder-HOVERSHIP/dp/B013I9SYC0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=IY8TWENUJLV6&keywords=xt60+battery&qid=1707527719&sprefix=xt60+battery%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/1300mAh-Battery-Airplane-Shredder-HOVERSHIP/dp/B013I9SYC0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=IY8TWENUJLV6&keywords=xt60+battery&qid=1707527719&sprefix=xt60+battery%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/SHKI/dp/B09PKD8QZZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=BCI1HLDPCYX8&keywords=bearings&qid=1707527764&sprefix=bearings%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/SHKI/dp/B09PKD8QZZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=BCI1HLDPCYX8&keywords=bearings&qid=1707527764&sprefix=bearings%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-3</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DM0H5Z5ICD3M&keywords=servos&qid=1707527779&sprefix=servo%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DM0H5Z5ICD3M&keywords=servos&qid=1707527779&sprefix=servo%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/DUMBORC-X6-Transmitter-Receiver-Protections-Controller/dp/B07Q112TQF/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3H9YVWQR8QKLL&keywords=rc+controller+and+radio&qid=1707527813&sprefix=rc+contorller+and+radio%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-8" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/DUMBORC-X6-Transmitter-Receiver-Protections-Controller/dp/B07Q112TQF/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3H9YVWQR8QKLL&keywords=rc+controller+and+radio&qid=1707527813&sprefix=rc+contorller+and+radio%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-8</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/VGEBY-Brushless-Controller-Airplanes-Accessory/dp/B08XZB9FX9/ref=sr_1_15?crid=14NDIPIXYS6SI&keywords=esc&qid=1707527910&sprefix=es%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-15" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/VGEBY-Brushless-Controller-Airplanes-Accessory/dp/B08XZB9FX9/ref=sr_1_15?crid=14NDIPIXYS6SI&keywords=esc&qid=1707527910&sprefix=es%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-15</a></li></ol>All Needed hardware and screws come with servos I linked aboveAlmost all of these items are interchangeable and you can likely use any RC parts you have already these are just the ones that I used.wheels and tires come from this creator the rims were changed to fit the proper drive shafts dimensions: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/305922-wheel-for-rc-110-car" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/305922-wheel-for-rc-110-car</a>Build instructions:Start by pressing two bearings into the slots on the back of the base plate<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/758615/rich_content/3d24c3ea-2527-4d82-8ffa-09b7d981ca3a/thumbs/cover/800x1067/jpg/img_4245.webp"><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:356.281px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/758615/rich_content/7c01bea4-f10b-468f-a350-c146be51c29e/thumbs/cover/800x600/jpg/img_4246.webp"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-right" style="width:358.852px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/758615/rich_content/d1328857-ad1a-4ea2-8295-0faac6367fd5/thumbs/cover/800x1067/jpg/img_4249.webp"></figure><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:322.867px;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/758615/rich_content/7feb9b35-2c51-4714-b7c4-b964677e25a1/thumbs/cover/800x1067/jpg/img_4253.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Screw the motor into place with four screws ensuring the motor is on the inside of the base platePress the small spur gear onto the motor and assemble the drive shaft spur gears and rear wheels&nbsp;&nbsp;Attach the servo to the base plate&nbsp;Start but cutting off a small slit in the servo horn, then screw the servo horn onto the steering bar.&nbsp;place the servo horn attached to the steering bar on the servo and screw it into place&nbsp;Attach the wheels and screw them fully into place then loosen one turn and ensure the wheels spin freely&nbsp;based on the tolerances of your printer you may need to shave down the steering bar and shaft to fit the wheel this can be done easily with scissors&nbsp;&nbsp;Good Luck and Have Fun !!!&nbsp;Printer I used: Bambu Labs A1 mini&nbsp;I am a young 3d designs and only recently learned none of this is professional grade, I only made this to help others without an infinite supply of electronics and tools to be able to make something coolplease help me by giving me new ideas and or fixes or changes I should make to this design

Mini Rc Car

Cars

DonMatis

This is part of the “Elements” collection. Expect all filament paintings on this collection to be rounded.This tries to capture the feeling of the sun rays touching our body in the first warm days of the year.Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used:<ul><li>PLA BambuLab Basic Black</li><li>PLA PolyTerra Charcoal Black</li><li>PLA BambuLab Basic Blue Gray</li><li>PLA BambuLab Basic Gray</li><li>PLA Overture Light Gray</li><li>PLA BambuLab Basic Jade White</li></ul>Swap Instructions:<ul><li>Start with Black</li><li>At layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to Charcoal Black</li><li>At layer #9 (0.8mm) swap to Blue Gray</li><li>At layer #16 (1.36mm) swap to Gray</li><li>At layer #20 (1.68mm) swap to Light Gray</li><li>At layer #22 (1.84mm) swap to Jade White for the rest.</li></ul>&nbsp;<blockquote>Enjoy my work? Support me by joining my club on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@DonMatis" rel="nofollow noopener">printables</a>. Tier 1 offers exclusive models, while Tier 2 allows you to sell my 3D printed artwork.</blockquote>

Happy Sun

NaaZonE

This is my first project. Is a simple signet ring, unfortunately I don&#39;t have a bamboolab printer yet so you have to choose the settings yourself. I hope you customize it to your liking with crazy ideas.

Signet ring

Rings

Fletch

The Saturn V rocket miniature model developed by NASA to take astronauts to the moon. Some details were omitted due to how small they were or poor results after slicing. Available in both multicolor and single color. The rocket can stand vertically without any support once assembled.&nbsp;This model should fit all Bambu printers. You will need to move the model to the corner on the A1 mini to fit both the model and prime tower.&nbsp;Update 3/14/24 - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/254506" rel="nofollow noopener">Added a stand to display the Saturn V rocket that can be found here</a>.&nbsp;NotesThe antenna is pretty small, be careful when removing from the kit. When pushing the antenna through the third stage, you can cut the tip off if needed. Do not cut the side that prevents the antenna from going through the third stage (the side that has an extra extrusion closest to the Saturn V label). Once the antenna is through the third stage, you can give it light tug to secure it in place.&nbsp;Assembly<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_0c0b17411535b8.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_88e6226af64dd8.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_c99b1d1591bfb.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_c63a7fd7539ff8.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_725c5a900205e8.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_a0f5646572fbd8.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_38eaf64fc600e.jpg">&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/706290/2024-03-01_bf8c15a68b8df8.jpg">

NASA Saturn V Kit Card

Random

ArmoredWolf

print both parts in your preferred material, after a plastic bag as thin as possible cut a circle of between 18 and 19 millimeters, place it in the resonator and screw the cap, now put it in the mouth and play.&nbsp;imprime ambas partes en tu material preferido, luego de una bolsa de plastico lo mas fina posible corta un circulo de entre 18 y 19 milimetros, colocalo en el resonador y enrosca el tapon, ahora pontelo en la boca y toca.

Basic kazoo

Instruments

ghostchili3d

anatomical heart. inside a normal LED strip. using opaque white pla would be better, but even the normal one works very well (as in the photo)