user_1744068335

Wallnuss

I got one of these cocktail sets, but unfortunately it didn't come with a nice way to store it. So I based it on similar sets and designed one.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Stand for Cocktail Sets

1337-Gripz

A cave for decoration, as a hiding place or breeding room in the aquarium. Suitable for example for fish and shrimp.The entrances in this version are about 30mm wide and 45mm high. There is room for somewhat larger animals.Model is scalable in several slicers.The surface is slightly rippled due to the manufacturing process, algae will probably grow here over time, resulting in a more natural look.Overall dimensions approx: 180x160x65mmIf you scale by 50% you will get a Version for smaller shrimps and fishes with an entry of approx. 15x20mm.&nbsp;PETG, at max. 0.20mm Layer height for the small version. Print this with 100% Infill or it may swim and you will have to put sand or stones into it :-)USE Organic / Tree support for the roof ! You can break them afterwards and shake them out of the cave.

A cave for fish or shrimp tanks

水族

WIZZY

Glock 17 with movable parts (Trigger,Magazine)on the spring part the support is a little bit tricky to remove check out my other models too

Glock 17

MatejB

Tablet or phone holder for car backseat. Mounted on front seats headrest.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/daxH6tBSDYI"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/daxH6tBSDYI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>You can try to print mount for my Toyota headrest dimensions. If it will not fit, you can change it in f3d file in Fusion 360. There go to Modify → Change parameters. Check the photos for parameters descriptions.&nbsp;The mounting dimensions between mount and holders are compatible with <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/449110-universal-tablet-holder-for-carsheadrest-fully-pri" rel="nofollow noopener">this project</a>. So you can combine mounts and holders between these 2 projects.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:30.15%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000433530/design/2024-04-18_c0140bbdf2bb.png"></figure>&nbsp;Included phone and tablet holders with printed spring. Tablet holder is in 2 variants, for clamping of 100-140mm dimensions, and 140-180mm dimensions.&nbsp;Notes:<ul><li>You can print headrest mount with PETG, but based on my experience, in hot summer days the PETG deforms under the load. So you may loose flexible properties. Recommending to print with material with higher temperature resistance than PETG.</li><li>I printed phone/tablet holders from PETG and so far didn&#39;t have any issue.</li><li>Don&#39;t try to configure negative tilt angle in parametric mount. It will work as a positive value. In order to achieve negative tilt, just flip printed part upside down since it is symmetric in this direction.</li><li>After the print, there might be tiny bonds between the sliding and static part. You may need to use some tool to initially push the sliding part. Then sliding has to work fine.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:287.812px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000433530/design/745d8e41-120b-4a8c-a58e-ce08e7a852c7.png"></figure><ul><li>On demand, in the files is available 3mf project for tablet holder for 180_210mm dimension. However this tablet holder was not tested by me, so please keep in mind this. Feel free to share you experience with it.</li></ul>

Parametric tablet/phone holder with printed spring

laisch

Low Profile Spoolholder for sidemounting to the bambulab AMS. With the bowdenconnector it adds just 34mm to the AMS in width. Fits spools from 140 to 200mm diameter. It mounts to the AMS with just clamping force, so there is no need to make any changes to the original hardware. Never unplug the AMS again when printing from an external spool.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_n6cdbyuzuuve.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_ajymv5zke7nc.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<blockquote>IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you print any part, read the Info part at the end of the build instruction!</blockquote>&nbsp;External Hardware:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_gpinzpf1se9r.jpg"></figure><ul><li>4pc - EXT5.55x25.4 tension springs or as an alternative 4pc small hair rubber band</li><li>4pc - M4x20 screw</li><li>5pc - M4x16 screw</li><li>9pc - M4 hex nut</li><li>9pc - M3 bras heat inserts</li><li>1pc - M3x6 screw</li><li>8pc - M3x4 screw</li><li>4pc - 608 rollerscate bearing</li><li>1pc - ptfe tube</li></ul>&nbsp;Print instructions:All parts print without supports!Everything can be printed in PLA, except the rollers should be printed in TPU. If you have no TPU, I added a PLA version for the part also. You can't just print the TPU part in PLA, because its undersized, and pressing the bearing in it would cause it to fail.&nbsp;Build Instructions:Drill holes After printing the Mainholder, you have to drill out the holes fot the rollers with a 4mm drill to later fit the screws. If the M4 screws fit, you can skip this step. The holes are made exactly 4mm to ensure the slicer makes 5 perimeter for strength. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_wmuhfakemqad.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Heatinserts The M3x4mm brass inserts have to be placed at the sliding mechanism and on the hole where you want the bowdenswivel to sit later. (The parts are designed for 4mm deep inserts, but it's also possible to use 6mm ones like I did because I had too less 4mm ;) )<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_a60ufmrmawm1.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Tension Springs:<blockquote>My prefered method is to use the rubber bands, even when the spring solution looks way nicer. But the springs tend to be too strong and overstretching them doesn't make them look nice.</blockquote>For the sliding mechanism you can use either tension springs or rubber bands. When using the springs, make sure that an empty spool will stay in place and don't get pushed out because the spring force is too strong. In case it's too strong you can widen the springs, but if they are too wide, a 140mm spool wont fit anymore.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_afhhdqdtdght.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_mmeizzw31hva.jpg"></figure>Use the M3x4mm screws to screw the springs in place&nbsp;Rubber Bands: Install the rubber bands like the springs. One per slot has enough force to hold the spool.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_s1ktst97rhlt.jpg"> Assembling the rollers: Press the bearing into rollerpart 1<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_lpzxkn799hjr.jpg">Add superglue and slide the two halfes together<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_8nkfcmbp9t4k.jpg"> <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_k17jdkrkcwv3.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Installing the rollers: Insert the M4 hex nuts into the back of the Mainholder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_3bgoc2k932xp.jpg"></figure>Add the Roller and the Spacer and screw them together with the M4x20 screw<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_vh6j1s4i5g84.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Installing the PTFE Swivel After printing the swivel, make sure that the two parts can rotate. Press the PTFE tube into the swivel and screw it to the Mainholder<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_f2aek2jdswpi.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_xr3j0fuxpsfh.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;AMS Mounting: Connect the clamps with M4x16mm screws and M4 nuts loose to the Mainholder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_n7cubyc4xkmj.jpg"></figure>Slide the whole assembly to your AMS and tighten the screws<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_1dmqtqzdpmt2.jpg"></figure>When the spoolholder with a full spool installed flexes too much you can also use double sided tape for better adhesion.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-12_vuzqa96gaaqw.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;CONNECTION:For connecting the AMS, the LP-Spoolholder or/and a filament dryer you can use my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/74010" rel="nofollow noopener">3-Way Bowden Splitte</a>r:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/74010" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-11-25_580b350a182a5.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;AMS RISERIf you want to use the LPSH with an AMS - Riser, I recommend to check out the<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/86200" rel="nofollow noopener"> Mooser Project</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2178842856" rel="nofollow noopener">Basti85</a>. It was designed to be fully compatible with the LPSH. His risers has already included the throughholes for the LPSH - Spoolholder. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/86200" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/334717/2023-12-09_9418658cdf1eb8.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;IMPORTANT INFO PART<blockquote>TIP: If the rollerslides are jamming from time to time, you can add some lubrication to the slider. I used the same silicon lube wich I use for the lead screws AMS: There seems to be different versions of the AMS. So before you print the clamps, check the rib size of your AMS. If you have 4 Ribs wich are 65mm - 86mm - 65mm appart, you can print the clamps like they are in the print profile. If you have 6 ribs wich are about 45 - 43mm appart you have to just print the "Clamp_small_18mm" at least 3 times Clearance Issue One user encountered too much clearance on his sliders wich leads to too much sagging of the spool. So I added three clearance test prints. The original "Mainholder" part comes with clearance 0.2mm. So print out the three clearance prints first and then decide wich "Mainholder" - version you want to print. For the sliders to work perfektly they must slide with ease (lube if necessary) but should not have too much wobble. Heat Inserts: There are 2 Types of M3 heat inserts. The one I used originally have ~5mm in diameter. If you are using the ones with 4mm outer diameter, there is a file called “holefix _4mm.stl" wich you can load together with the Mainholder.stl into the slicer. Just mark both files, pull them to your slicer and say "yes" when Bambu studio is asking if you want to load it as a single object. For those who want to go anyway with the rubber bands I added a "rubberplug" - part wich can be used instead of the heat inserts. There are also two versions, one for the original 5mm holes and one for the holes with the holefix for 4mm.&nbsp;Tension springs vs. rubber band My prefered method is to use the rubber bands, even when the spring solution looks way nicer. But the springs tend to be too strong and overstretching them doesn't make them look nice. UPDATE 21.11.23: - made the bowdenswivel stronger and added two different sizes 20mm and 30mm&nbsp;Update 31.12.23: - Holefix_4mm.stl for 4mm diameter heat inserts</blockquote>&nbsp;

LPSH - Low Profile Spoolholder (sidemounted for AMS)

Brian Dean

<h2>Embedded Magnet Dispenser Tool for Multiple Diameters and Thicknesses</h2><h3>PROFILE NOTE</h3>Please use the “Designer” profile as it guarantees the latest files and version with all new magnet sizes and features. The Designer Profile will be listed at the top.<h3>Latest Update (2024-04-21): Quick summary</h3><ol><li>additional magnet sizes</li><li>magnet size text embossed on the barrel and also included on the slider</li></ol>See below for the more detailed update notes.<h2>Magnet Dispenser for 3D Prints: Simplify Magnet Insertion with Precision</h2>The Magnet Dispenser Tool is expertly designed to streamline the insertion of magnets into 3D prints. This tool not only speeds the process of inserting magnets into 3D Prints, it also ensures correct orientation and secure fitting, making it ideal for projects that require precise magnet placement.<h3>Key Features</h3><h4>Dual Dispensers for Perfect Alignment</h4><ul><li>Includes two dispensers for each magnet size – one for north-up and one for south-up orientations</li><li>Use different colors (e.g., red for north-up and blue for south-up) to help easily identify the dispenser&#39;s orientation</li><li>Eliminates the hassle of misaligned magnets</li></ul><h4>Design and Utility</h4><ul><li>Developed after extensive refinement</li><li>Allows for friction-fit insertion and is also suitable for magnets that are glued</li><li>Tapered tip facilitates use in tight spaces</li></ul><h4>Ease of Use</h4><ul><li>The dispensers are designed to accommodate the specified magnet sizes for their internal holding magnets, but can dispense magnets of any thicknesses for the specified diameter. For example, for the 6x3mm dispenser, you will need 6x3mm magnets to assemble the dispenser, but once assembled, that dispenser can dispense any 6mm diameter magnet such as 6x1, 6x2, 6x3, 6x5, etc.</li></ul><h4>Convenience and Storage</h4><ul><li>Features a snap-on cap with an embedded magnet and a top slider magnet</li><li>Ensures secure storage and prevents accidental magnet spillage</li></ul><h4>Customization and Printability</h4><ul><li>No supports needed for printing</li><li>STL and STEP files included for personal customization</li><li>Compatible with PETG, PLA, ASA, ABS, etc</li><li>Adjust x/y hole compensation if needed for perfect fit</li></ul><h4>Visual Guide</h4><ul><li>Fusion 360 images provided for easy assembly and understanding of the internal mechanism</li></ul><h4>Use the Magnet Dispenser for a hassle-free, precise, and efficient magnet insertion experience in your 3D printing projects.</h4><h3>Supported Magnet Sizes</h3><h4>Dispensers are now provided for the following magnet sizes as of Version 5</h4><ol><li>2x1mm</li><li>2x2mm</li><li>2x3mm</li><li>3x1mm</li><li>3x2mm</li><li>3x3mm</li><li>4x1mm</li><li>4x2mm</li><li>4x3mm</li><li>5x1mm</li><li>5x2mm</li><li>5x3mm</li><li>6x2mm</li><li>6x3mm</li><li>7x2mm</li><li>7x3mm</li><li>8x2mm</li><li>8x3mm</li><li>8x4mm</li><li>9x2mm</li><li>9x3mm</li><li>10x1mm</li><li>10x2mm</li><li>10x3mm</li><li>12x2mm</li><li>12x3mm</li><li>15x2mm</li><li>15x3mm</li><li>20x2mm</li><li>20x3mm</li></ol>NOTE 1: The 1mm magnet thickesses are just too thin to work reliably with the friction-fit of the slider and caps. Therefore, I have made the pockets of the “1mm” thickness magnet dispensers to be that of the 3mm variety so that they work. So to assemble a 1mm magnet thickness dispenser, you will need to purchase a few 3mm thick magnets to assemble the dispenser. A 2mm thickness will likely work ok, too. Note that the text on the dispenser will still say “D x 1 mm” for the barrel, “Dx1” on the cap, and “D/1” on the slider, so you know what magnets you have loaded into it.&nbsp;NOTE 2: the above are the sizes needed to assemble the dispenser. The dispenser can still dispense any thickness of magnet as long as the diameter is the same. So if don&#39;t see your specific magnet thickness listed above, you can still print the correct diameter, assemble the dispenser with the correct magnet thickness, and dispense other thicknesses.&nbsp;STEP and STL raw files are included if you do not wish to use the provided profile.<h3>Quality Assurance Testing</h3><ul><li>All dispenser sizes have been printed by me and extensively tested</li><li>I have purchased all magnet sizes at significant expense to myself to ensure fit</li><li>Magnet diameters are tricky for press-fit tolerance and controlled by no less that 5 Fusion 360 parameters that must be balanced to achieve good fit<ul><li>Multiple iterations of each dispenser were printed and refined</li><li>Many kilograms of filament and hundreds of hours of print-time were consumed during this process</li><li>All to ensure the best quality printing and fit-up for each dispenser size</li></ul></li></ul><h3>About the Profiles</h3><ol><li>Please use the “Designer” profile as it guarantees the latest files and version with all new magnet sizes and features. The Designer Profile will be listed at the top.</li><li>NOTE: The “Designer” profile is a single profile that contains plates for all magnet sizes so far. Please ignore the “total time” reported by MakerWorld for the profile. You only need to print the plate(s) that you need. Each plate takes about 2.5-2.9 hours on my X1C using the included “PETG” profile which is slowed down for good PETG layer adhesion and quality.</li><li>While the other profiles may be ok, their file / update version may be out of date. So if you want the latest sizes and model improvements, please choose the top “Designer” profile.</li></ol><h3>Accessories</h3>Be sure and check out some nice accessories that other folks have created to work with these dispensers.<ul><li>Tip Caps - these are nice caps for the dispensor tip. Not only do they help keep the magnets contained within, but they also protect the tip. Additionally, they are labeled with the magnet size, which is nice. Thank you @onegotowned ! <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/149038#profileId-162633" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/149038#profileId-162633</a></li><li>Vertical Workbench Stand - This is a very nice stand for select diamagers made by @nickramsey57. A number of folks have asked about stands / organizers for the dispensers, so this model will likely be useful to a number of folks. Thank you @nickramsey57 ! <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/206388#profileId-226561" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/206388#profileId-226561</a></li><li>Vertical Workbench Stand (parametric) - Here is another very nice stand made by @RevHazlett. You can specify the dispenser sizes that you want it to hold and then generate, making it customizable to your needs and the common magnet sizes that you use. Thank you @RevHazlett! <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/435087#profileId-340031" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/435087#profileId-340031</a></li></ul><h2>Update History</h2><h3>Version 5: 2024-04-21</h3><ol><li>Emboss the magnet size text on the Barrel (see photos), allowing one to view the size from the side, and also allowing one to print all of the barrels on a single plate and not get the barrels mixed up as to what size they are for.</li><li>Include the magnet size text on the Slider (see photos), allowing one to print all of the sliders and caps together on one plate and not get the sliders mixed up as to what magnet size they are for. Also provides additional text identification of the magnet size within.</li><li>Include 11 new magnet sizes:<ol><li>3x1mm</li><li>4x1mm</li><li>5x1mm</li><li>7x2mm, 7x3mm</li><li>8x4mm</li><li>10x1mm</li><li>15x2mm, 15x3mm</li><li>20x2mm, 20x3mm</li></ol></li><li>Re-organize the plates so that they are a little easier to manage. All dispenser sizes for each “diameter” are spread across three plates now - the Barrels, the Red Caps and Sliders, and the Blue Caps and Sliders. This allows one to “print-by-layer” instead of “print-by-object”, and the text also comes out better. Additionally, it is now easier to construct a plate with all of the size variations on 3 individual plates and print them all at once.</li></ol><h3>Version 4: 2023-12-26</h3><ol><li>Fixed an issue where the smaller diameter magnets such as the 2mm, 3mm, and possibly the 4mm magnet diameters could inadvertently slip through the vertical barrel slider stem slot. Prior to this update, the slider stem was a fixed 3mm + tolerance width. With Version 4, the slider slot is now dynamic based on the magnet diameter. So now, the smaller diameter magnets are captive within the barrel and cannot slip out inadvertently.</li><li>Tighten up the tolerances between the “slider” and the “barrel” for a better fit and smoother operation.</li><li>Use the Profile: “Version 4: All Sizes …” for the latest from this update.</li></ol><h3>Version 3: 2023-12-22</h3><ol><li>Added additional magnet sizes<ol><li>2x1mm, 2x2mm, 2x3mm</li><li>9x2mm, 9x3mm</li></ol></li><li>Text is now added within the Fusion 360 Model File, eliminating the need to add the text using Bambu Studio<ol><li>Ensures consistent text placement and easier colorizing of the text</li></ol></li><li>All plates are included for all magnet sizes, two dispensers per plate, print sequence: print-by-object</li></ol><h3>Version 2.1: 2023-11-28</h3><ol><li>Added additional magnet sizes<ol><li>3x2mm</li><li>4x2mm, 4x3mm</li><li>5x2mm, 5x3mm</li><li>6x2mm</li><li>8x2mm, 8x3mm</li><li>10x2mm, 10x3mm</li><li>12x2mm</li></ol></li><li>The magnet size text is included on the cap for easy identification - see photo</li></ol><h3>Version 2: 2023-11-20</h3>Updated to “Version 2”. Significant updates an enhancements have been made, some seen, some unseen.<ol><li>Added additional magnet sizes<ol><li>3x3mm</li><li>12x3mm</li></ol></li><li>Each magnet size is on its own plate, two dispensers per plate, print sequence: print-by-object</li><li>Redesigned “thumb slider” for greater comfort and stronger press force</li><li>Slider stem has been reinforced</li><li>Many enhancements for smoother operation with internal chamfers and fillets, enhanced tolerances, and strengthening of key internal components</li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Embedded Magnet Dispenser Tool for 3D Prints

Ciuf_Ciuf

One of the worst and most stressful things about using AMS is the amount of purged filament that gets wasted, without considering the additional time for each print. So, I decided to create this simple file without having to make any modifications to the gcode or anything else.The goal, therefore, is to minimize the amount of filament during each purge. The only necessary tool is a caliper, but you can also use a simple ruler.&nbsp;You start by setting all the purges to 50mm³<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.92%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_4aedbe6bc42f2.png"></figure>&nbsp;Once you've chosen which filament to calibrate, through the slicer, you set the correct sequence of chosen colors. A simple example is the photo below.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.77%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_47d1448e5d29e8.png"></figure>All that's left to do is start the print and wait.What you will see in front of you will be something like this.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_5c560b0fe3b9a8.jpg"></figure>At this point, our friend, the caliper or ruler (depending on how precise you want to be), comes into play. What you need to measure is the moment when the color you've chosen stops blending with the previous color and finally takes on its clean color.&nbsp;In this case, to transition from gray to blue, 48mm are needed.Now, using a simple formula, you can calculate the final value to input into the slicer. Each rectangle is exactly 100mm³. So, you need to multiply the measured value by 2 and add it to the 50mm³ set previously. Therefore:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 = (48 x 2) + 50 = 146&nbsp;Now, I will input 146mm³ to make the color change from gray to blue.&nbsp;This process should be performed for all color changes and all possible combinations. In case the first rectangle is not enough, the one below will complete the purge. Just keep in mind that in the formula, in addition to the 50, the value of the first rectangle, which is 100, should also be included.&nbsp;For example, as it happened to me for the change from black to gray, I measured the second rectangle, finding 13mm, and then I applied the formula again, adding the value of the first rectangle.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.24%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_556a3a54f7ecd.jpg"></figure>So, the calculation would be:&nbsp;Vdef = (Vmeasured x 2) + 50 + 100 = (13 x 2) + 50 + 100 = 176&nbsp;Therefore, I would input 176mm³ to facilitate the color change from black to gray.&nbsp;Using this method allows you to significantly reduce the amount of purged filament without affecting the color you'll load afterward. In the photo below, you can see the amount of filament that has been purged using this technique.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:34.07%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_e44854969175d8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Comparing it with the slicer's automatic calculation, the difference is quite evident. This technique allows you to reduce purging by 30% or even less, depending on how precise your measurements are.&nbsp;BEFORE<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_aaffe4a2460af8.png"></figure>AFTER<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/140491/2023-11-01_45cf9e0401d838.png"></figure>&nbsp;I hope this simple idea can help you, as it helped me, to reduce the amount of filament wasted during color changes.Wishing everyone happy printing and lots of fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration

校准

RoyalT

I made this little mod for the P1S to add more light to the nozzle area.<h2>⚙️ Printer Settings</h2><figure class="table" style="width:75%;"><table style="border:1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 0%);"><tbody><tr><td>Wall Generator </td><td>Arachne </td></tr><tr><td>Wall Loops </td><td>3 </td></tr><tr><td>Infill </td><td>Gyroid 15% </td></tr><tr><td>Brim </td><td>None </td></tr><tr><td>Supports </td><td>None </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Since the parts are so small it is a good idea to use “Silent” mode to give layers more time to cool. Make sure you use a filament that can withstand 60c temps. I recommend using PETG-CF. Regular PETG will work too.<h2>🏗️ Installation</h2><figure class="table" style="width:60.01%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/Jy719BwPP4s"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Jy719BwPP4s" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>Short tutorial video showing how to assemble and wire the nozzle light.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>The tutorial video shows my P1S Cable Channel Covers in use. If you want to print your own to help manage the wiring you can find the STLs here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/57136" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/57136</a>The top glass riser I use in the video is this one: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/569595-bambulab-top-glass-riser-4-cob-led" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/569595-bambulab-top-glass-riser-4-cob-led</a>&nbsp;<h2>❌ No Riser/LED Strip installed Or LED Strip Is Not 5V?</h2>If you do not have 5v LED strips in your P1S already that you can connect to for power there are a few options available.&nbsp;💡 USB PORT METHOD 💡You can plug directly into the USB port on the inside of the P1S. If you are already using the USB port for something else it is possible to use a splitter. I tested a simple USB splitter and was able to power my LED strips and an XTouch touchscreen from the one USB port in the build chamber. Here is a pic of the splitter I tested. Note that it only splits power NOT data. We only need the 5v power so that is fine for this purpose. The USB port in the P1S build chamber supports 1.5a according to the sticker on it. So don't go above that when plugging in multiple devices. I found that the LED strips in my top glass riser draw about 1.02a total.<figure class="table" style="width:20.57%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/185365/2023-11-18_820e3fde42441.jpg"></figure>USB Power Splitter</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;💡 LIGHT BAR METHOD 💡 The second option would be to splice it into the stock led bar, which is also 5v. This would have the added benefit of turning on and off when using the light on/off button in the GUI. You can make your own cables to plug into the stock light bar port by using JST GH 1.25mm connectors. I was able to order them on Amazon here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PBHN7TM" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PBHN7TM</a> The research I did suggested that the stock light bar port can handle up to 350ma. So keep that in mind when using it to power other things. The 15mm LED strip added by this mod has very little power draw and should be fine.<figure class="table" style="width:56.29%;"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border:1px solid hsl(0, 0%, 0%);"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="vertical-align:bottom;width:43%;"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/185365/2023-11-18_a8909f04e1d2.jpg"></figure>Light bar plug type (JST GH 1.25mm)</td><td style="vertical-align:bottom;width:57%;"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/185365/2023-11-18_4c3efaa81e7d6.jpg"></figure>Stock light bar plug location</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>(Right-Click > "Open Image in New Tab" to zoom in)&nbsp;💡 LAST RESORT METHOD 💡 The third and last option would be to run the wiring out of the case and power it however you see fit.<h2>🧱 Materials</h2>This is the 5v USB COB LED Strip I use in the tutorial video: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XDJT1B5/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XDJT1B5/</a> <figure class="table" style="width:35.47%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/185365/2023-11-18_8b72bd9d9bafc.jpg"></figure>COB LED Strip with diffuser removed. 5 LEDs = 15mm. Cut to this length.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<h2>👑 ETC.</h2>I designed this model for fun. Don't forget to leave me a thumbs up and 5 stars. Thanks!I am still pretty new to CAD so any tips or critiques are more than welcome.&nbsp;Designed with LOVE in Fusion 360I ❤️ My Bambu!

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