ced17

Heath

Another variation of the A1/A1 mini tool box. Just with the logo only.&nbsp;You will need 6 - M3x30 screws for the hinges and latches.&nbsp;There is also an STL for pins instead of the screws. &nbsp;https://makerworld.com/de/models/74688#profileId-79085

A1/A1 Mini tool box logo only

Boite

Valentine Dove Drip scaled at 150mm for Bambu mini printers.&nbsp;You can remove the copper layer for a simple black and white picture or try your own colour,I'm just obsessed with Copper at the moment. added a dash of silk white just for a little bit of extra sheen&nbsp;&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used: PLA BambuLab Basic Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA Overture Silk Copper Transmission Distance: 3.4 PLA BambuLab Basic Gray Transmission Distance: 2 PLA Overture Silk White Transmission Distance: 7Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #6 (0.56mm) swap to Copper At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to Gray At layer #15 (1.28mm) swap to White for the rest.  &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/albionrapture" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me A Coffee</a>

Valentine Dove Drip

hueforge

橙豆造物

作者的地址<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/431820#profileId-348512" rel="nofollow noopener">Endless Loop Express 来自 IMD_Q. - MakerWorld</a>说明书可以去那看，轨道这里没改，需要一体打印的轨道可以去这下载<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/449889#profileId-356792" rel="nofollow noopener">For Endless Loop Express Glue-free，小火车轨道无胶水版本 二次创作 - 来自 橙豆造物 - MakerWorld</a>作者那配件单都有，可以直接一键下单。小马达买第三方需要自己焊接。想省事直接官方买

Endless Loop Express中国铁路版

Loop express

oliver93ruoff

A shoe for the 12v bosch 2ah and 3ah batteries, such that the powertool will be able to stand.The fit is tight enough, such that it should hold together quite well.

Bosch 12v Battery Shoe

Support

fletch22

A neat display for your Benchy. &nbsp;Credit goes to nexnox for it's creation.

Benchy on a wave.

Benchy

eds_3d_shop

⚠️Working on this complicated model takes a lot of time and if you like my work and want to support me and this design - please BOOST this design (click on the small Rocket 🚀 or „BOOST“ button) 🙏👍 Thank you in advance!🙏&nbsp;! Please take bed adhesion very seriously when printing this almost full-bed design, use 3DLAC OR GLUE STICK if necessary and increase the bed-temperature by 5°C degree. My print-profiles have already these seetings.&nbsp;<h2>Eds Stand for vertical AMS lite holder (A1 and A1mini)</h2>It&#39;s a great idea to position AMS lite vertically! 😍👍You have several advantages: 1. Truly easier and more convenient access to ALL four spools and filament feeders! 2. Very space saving! 3. Filament bowden are guided better behind the printer and AMS lite is not rocked back and forth when the printer is running ❤️<h3> </h3><h3>Vertical AMS lite holder</h3>You can download my remix of really great <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/134928#profileId-146351" rel="nofollow noopener">holder for vertical mounting here</a>. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/134928#profileId-146351" rel="nofollow noopener">This one have already the mounting holes</a>. Please check up the original <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/64367#profileId-67449" rel="nofollow noopener">Holder-Designer page</a> for instructions on how to assemble it with AMS lite. There is a cool animation for assembly - it&#39;s really easy! 👌&nbsp;If you already printed a great vertical holder from here <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/64367#profileId-67449" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/64367#profileId-67449</a> and you want to screw this existing holder and my stand together - just print my drilling template to easy drill (3mm drill) precise holes in the holder! See in my printing profiles here!<h3> </h3><h3>Why this version of the stand?</h3>I didn&#39;t like the stands I saw for the holder so I designed my own. I really wanted the stand and vertical holder to be screwed together tightly - for that you only need 2x M3 nuts and 2x14mm M3 screws. So you can pick up the whole AMS lite and move it arround without having to worry about the stand falling off 😂I also wanted AMS Lite cable to be able to be carried through. A storage area for the filament clips should not be missing either! :-) And yes - it should be beautiful, stylish and at the same time it should not need so much filament. 😂👍If anyone wants to mount AMS lite - I have a version with M6 mount holes.&nbsp;<h4>Print / Install Instructions for the stand:</h4><ul><li>The stand is almost full-bed design, take for this most warp-free Filament (PLA is really good enough!), use 3DLAC OR GLUE STICK if necessary and increase the bed-temperature by 5°C degree (f.e. from 65° to 70°)</li><li>The stand has a small “mice ears” on the edges for better bed adhesion - just cut them off easily after print (with pliers/cutter knife)👍</li></ul><h4>Print / Install Instructions for the cable hole cover:</h4><ul><li>place them with the logo on the build plate</li><li>first layer line width: 0,36 (0.4 mm Nozzle)</li><li>first layer speed: 10ms per second (for a perfect look of the front-logo-surface)</li></ul>— ! —&nbsp;Thanks for downloading, rating in advance and please don&#39;t forget to like this model! ;-)&nbsp;⚠️This design is inspired by a cool model from <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/68898811" rel="nofollow noopener">筋斗云の点线面</a>! (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/64367#profileId-67449" rel="nofollow noopener">LINK</a>) Thank you for cool design and inspiration!🙏👍 But in this design, no external source data was used (STLs, STEP, etc.) and everything was designed from scratch.<h3>Take a look at my another very helpful designs for X1/P1P/P1S/A1/A1mini:</h3><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4051934936" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000134362/design/2024-01-12_00009ce9c82bf.png"></a><figcaption>🔗<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4051934936" rel="nofollow noopener">Eds_3D_Shop designs on MakerWorld</a> 🔗</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;If you like my work and want to support me - please follow me and if you want - you can buy me a coffee! <a target="_blank" href="https://linktr.ee/eds_3d_shop" rel="nofollow noopener">https://linktr.ee/eds_3d_shop</a>Thank you for your support and.. happy printing!Ed ;-)&nbsp;&nbsp;

Eds Stand for vertical AMS lite holder (A1/A1mini)

Coat Over

A simple to use cable- and filament guide for the Bambu Lab A1-mini.  When i got the great A1-mini the first thing that irritates me was the flapping cable to the hotend and the possible risk it hangs itself at the top of the Z-beam. Also the filament tube was not stable enough, could get before or behind that vertical Z-bar. As last but not least the tube connection at the spool-side is for some reason not fixed, which is not preferable. A moving connector does unwind your spool when the X-axis comes down. A fixed connector keeps the filament on the spool in place when you travel up or down over the Z-axis So both the cable and the tube are guided via this top. The cable follows its natural path and runs along the back of the Z-bar. It has enough freedom to follow the whole path of the hot-end, without any tension (see gif). The filament fixture gives the filament a smoother path than the original coupler. The top-part: The top comes in a flat and a rounded model. I prefer the flat top, it is much cleaner and easier to print as the rounded part which has big overhangs in the first mm of the print. Replacing the top-cap: Remove the front screw of the original cap. Place the new cap (see if it fits properly first) and hook in the cable to the hot-end. Use the front screw to secure it. The tube: You can use the tube the mini comes with. you don&#39;t need it to cut. If you let it stick out for 8cm or so you have enough room for the hotend. Check it before you mount it. You keep it in place with one of the tube connectors. The tube connectors:There are different ways to connect the tube to the top : - Friction fit:There is a file and profile with 5 small fittings going from small tolerance to high toleance. Print them out and choose the fitting that is between easy to move and hard to move. The tube does not have to be permanently fixed but must remain in place.  - Printed coupler*: The printed coupler keeps the tube in place in both directions. The nut does not need to be tightened tightly as long as the tube stays in place. You probably need glue to keep the coupler in place (glue before you add the tube) - M10 coupler: if you have a pc4-M10 coupler in stock, you can use this. The thread in the top-part is pretty easy to make with the coupler itself. Keep it straight and use a wrench to thread it ( righty-tighty). You can hide it with a cap for a sleek look (see files). - Other methods: No connector at all: stick the tube in the hole and see how it goes.Hot glue: stick the tube in and fill the hole with (hot) glue. Be careful with PLA and hot glue.| Extra: Small Filament Funnel (april 2024):A comment mentioned that it was somewhat hard to load the filament in the tube. With this little funnel you can load filament easily with one hand. Be sure you press the tube all the way in to the underside of the side-holes. Well too much text but I hope you like the design, Happy printing :) *The screw part is borrowed from “Bowden / PTFE Tube Coupler - Two Sided” by IOIIOOO (Printables)

A1 Mini Cable- and Filament-guide

MplusM

With this simple lap counter addon for the Marble Run 003 you have the marble races for 5 marbles under your control. Winner, second and third of the race can place the marble on the podium and enjoy the glory…&nbsp;Easy to print and easy to assemble. Only pay attention to the small triangle connectors for the connection between the podium and the counter.&nbsp;There are two Print Profiles, 0.20mm Standard and 0.16mm Optimal. Personally, I think the quality with 0.20mm Standard is good enough.Use one more build plate for the Counter Rings if you have only 1 AMS.&nbsp;See documentation (pdf-File) for more informations and instructions.&nbsp;Happy to get your comments!&nbsp;Interested in more Marble Run items? Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@mplusm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/@mplusm</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Marble Run 003 Lap Counter Addon

Marble

Think3D

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm. Start with Black At layer #8 (0.72mm) swap to Blue At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to BambuLab Green At layer #17 (1.44mm) swap to Jade White for the rest.&nbsp;___________________________________________________________________________________If you like my work, please consider a small donation :) Thank you very much :*<a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=RWRXKCAEM86K8" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=RWRXKCAEM86K8</a>&nbsp;

Hogwarts Van Gogh - HueForge

Alixe

uhltimate

PLEASE USE THIS MODEL: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/82443#profileId-87869" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/82443#profileId-87869</a>&nbsp;Product Description: Introducing the Pull Copter, a 3D printable toy for kids and kids at heart. It comprises just three parts: the pulling rod, the propeller (or spinning top), and the base. There's no need for assembly—print, play, and enjoy!&nbsp;How to Use:<ol><li>Print the three parts using a 3D printer.</li><li>Assemble by slotting the pulling rod into the base and attaching either the propeller or the spinning top.</li><li>Hold the base, pull the rod, and watch the propeller soar or the spinning top twirl into action.</li></ol>Safety Tips:<ul><li>Always supervise children during use.</li><li>Launch the Pull Copter in open areas away from obstructions and people.</li></ul>Unleash the fun with the Pull Copter—an easy, entertaining 3D-printed toy for all ages! Customize the experience with your choice of propeller or spinning top.

Flying Propeller (Pull Copter) & Spinning Top (No Supports, No Assembly Required)

Eliott

cadmeister

Title: 3D Printable 2-Inch Race Whoop Drone Frame STL FilesDescription:Rev up your racing experience with our cutting-edge 3D Printable 2-Inch Race Whoop Drone Frame STL Files! Designed for speed, agility, and durability, these meticulously crafted files allow you to create a high-performance racing drone that will leave your competitors in the dust.Key Features:Optimized Design for Speed: Our frame design is aerodynamically optimized to ensure minimal air resistance, allowing your whoop drone to slice through the air with maximum efficiency. The sleek and streamlined profile enhances overall speed, making it perfect for competitive racing scenarios.Durable Construction: Engineered with durability in mind, the frame is designed to withstand the rigors of high-speed racing and occasional crashes. The strategically reinforced areas ensure that your drone remains resilient, minimizing the need for frequent repairs.Lightweight for Agility: We understand the importance of agility in drone racing. The frame's lightweight construction strikes the perfect balance between durability and agility, providing you with a nimble and responsive drone that can effortlessly navigate through tight spaces and challenging race tracks.Modular Components: The frame is designed with modularity in mind, allowing you to easily swap out components for upgrades or repairs. This feature ensures that you can adapt your drone to changing race conditions or customize it to suit your preferences.Easy 3D Printing: The STL files are meticulously crafted to facilitate easy and precise 3D printing. Compatible with a range of 3D printers, these files ensure that you can bring your drone to life with high-quality prints, allowing for a seamless assembly process.

RaceWhoop 2 Inch

Drone 

jwalker55

Vase with a wavy pattern.&nbsp;Included is a filled version for printing in vase mode and a regular version with the inner cavity modeled for regular printing.

Wavy Vase

Déco 

MikeProch

Trash bag holder with smaller size, ideal for 20l garbage bag. I chose the design to make it easy to take the garbage bag out and put it back in place. Add double sided tape to the back of the model and then you can place it straight into your preferred location. If you need mirrored version use tool in bambulab studio or ask me to create this version.

Garbage bag holder smaller size 20l

Utile 

BjörnB

I have had great success with this profiles. Both on Bambu lab TPU-HF and some random noname TPU from amazon that actually handles higher speeds.NOTE: always dry your filament before printing. =)&nbsp;Overture High Speed TPU is confirmed working with this profile.

Bambu lab TPU-HF profiles (Printer and filament)

A1 TPU

SavageLau

<h2>If you want a commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon.</h2><h2>Personal use only.</h2>&nbsp;This model is design for MakerWorld light contest (2/5). Complete free version is only available on here Makerworld. <h3>Many people have contacted me said they willing to pay for the model. Other platform product manager reach and out said I could use their platform and selling this design for some money, but I have decided to keep it here for free for now. So there will be more people could enjoying it :) So show me your finshed print, I would like to see it. </h3><h3> Anywhere else you see this model upload is Unauthorized (please notify me and report them), beside my own account (SavageLau). </h3>&nbsp;<h2>If you would like purchase LED light needed for this design and filament from Bambu Lab Offical website: Affiliate link is below, so I can get some commission to support my future work. </h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4h4np" rel="nofollow noopener">https://shrsl.com/4h4np</a> </h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-03-23_4ad27b7082fe3.png"></figure><h2>Filaments that I use for this project: (Bambu Lab Offical website:)</h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4h4ns" rel="nofollow noopener">https://shrsl.com/4h4ns</a> </h2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>You may also like this design:</h2>PeaShooter Lamp Kit 001. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/174475#profileId-191833" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/174475#profileId-191833</a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;My boss saw some Bellsprout light the other day and she want me to design one. I have one LED Lamp kit come with my a1mini and sitting for a while. So why not turning it into what she want. So the design started adpot the lamp kit into Bellsprout.I found this pic on Google, based on the posture and proportion started deisng.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_bc131748fd272.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-01_33679f29d502a.png"></figure><h2>Update: </h2><h3>2/2/2024. A new profile was made for a1mini. Increased infill/walls on base and body part. </h3>Model main body have been reduced in size inorder to meet the build plate size for a1mini with muti-color prints. &nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2010665163" rel="nofollow noopener">@Sascha2202</a> feedback it is a bit hard to keep banlance. Weight increased on printing profile by adding more infill and walls. Weight for that part from 160g to 202g, lowered center of gravity. Consider head is around 40g + led weight, it should do well now. <h3>2/1/2024. Joints redesigned. </h3>Improved joints firction load, strength, tolerancing. New turning angle sets around 13.5 degrees max for each joints. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.72%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-01_d00693a8b7acb.png"></figure>“Head” part fit and finish improving. <h3>Revisions and Tests today:</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_ffe7e41994dec.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Before you print(Important!):</h2>Run the joint test print first with the filament you are going to use for joints and body, before you doing the full print! This is important. Depend on filaments you use for the joint parts, there will be sinkage rate difference, and firction load on joint will be different.&nbsp;I put very tight tolerancing on design, but it may not work as intended when you printing with your filaments, so run the test and confirm joints is very tight to each other. Other wise You will not get the desired result.&nbsp;&nbsp;Joints with other parts are standard size. There is one “Tight” profile for joints. There are two types of joint, regular and with wire clip one. You will need to print total of 12 or above (maybe less than 15) to get good proportion. &nbsp;Joints designed best work with 4 wall layers, and 10% to 20% infill, adding more infill will not improve the strength, will only leading part failure during assembly. &nbsp;<h2>Hard ware:</h2>This design require Lamp LED Kit 001 from Bambu Lab. All other parts are printable. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-31_bca061fd80f1d.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Post work:</h2>Removing brims from all parts, when you remove brim from joints part, confirm it is fully removed. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_dec1b2c670225.gif"></figure><h2>Assembly:</h2>Refer these gif image. Joints is a bit hard to push in, refer how I do it, holding the bottom part with you fingure, it will reduce the change of failure. &nbsp;Joints:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_5c978e23e8634.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_9f2e463b2d8a6.gif"></figure>Fully assembly:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-02-02_9a975d341b61f.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Design:</h2>Lamp kit is 60mm dia, 8mm thickness. based on that dims and make rough draft to evaluate the overall size.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_34bf66e6b20e5.png"></figure>&nbsp;Working on some parts, and integrate them in the end.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_4880a9ab2336a.png"></figure>&nbsp;I started with wanting ball joint on the head, so it will able to turn angles. End up why not to have more ball joints on the body.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_b08f0ea2e5ee9.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_80ec7f991cbaa.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_80ed16d7dd498.png"></figure>&nbsp;Ball joints is pain in the axx to work with. I want it to have a lot of friction load in normal condition. so the outter shell shall have very small tolerance to the ball or even smaller. Ended spending a lot of time try in truth to testing out different tolerances and make design revisions.Still not perfect, but it work for this application. You gain a lot of DOF, but it is a bit brittle, depends on your materials.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-30_153933e0ba5bb.png"></figure><h2>Revisions and tests:</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/796346/2024-01-31_641c974fd0d58.png"></figure>

BellSprout Lamp LED Kit 001

A1 collection 

ThreeD-Michael

<figure class="table" style="width:78%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="width:50%;" colspan="2">If you like this design, please also check out my new <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/231936" rel="nofollow noopener">Optimized Bed Scraper</a>:</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align:center;width:50%;"><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/231936" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/654792/2024-03-07_4670d91a31e1a.png"></a></figure></td><td style="text-align:center;width:50%;"><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/231936" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/654792/2024-03-07_30f7514113eb6.jpg"></a></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table" style="width:78%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="width:50%;" colspan="2">Update: Upon request, I uploaded the poop buckets I use: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/156253" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuLab A1</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/156091" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuLab A1 Mini</a>.</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align:center;width:50%;"><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/156253" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/654792/2024-01-25_e31ca8915fbc3.jpg"></a></figure></td><td style="text-align:center;width:50%;"><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/156091" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/654792/2024-01-25_ba2d0a197944.jpg"></a></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Poop Deflector for Bambulab A1 and A1 MiniI know there are already poop deflector designs online. I tried a few but didn't like them because they were either too brittle and/or lacked a proper attachment. That's why I created my own design, which offers the following advantages:<ul><li>secure fixation,</li><li>stabilized deflector,</li><li>stable walls,</li><li>easy and quick printing,</li><li>only 4g weight.</li></ul>Since I've been using this deflector, no poop has missed the basket...&nbsp;Assembly:Carefully click the poop deflector onto the purge wiper. Place a collecting container under the deflector and make sure that the deflector cannot touch the container in the lowest z position of the printer.