Mountain brothers

SK07 Skipper07

I present to you the new variant of the Toy car series equipped with a trolley.It is easy to print and there are no screws of any kind to ensure greater safety.I think it is also nice as a gift for Easter, it is possible to put a small egg inside the cart, you will find the file on my page where the other models are present.I wish you all a happy Easter and have fun

TOY CAR 7.9

toys

food

DrJones

An OpenSCAD parametric funnel with some options like<ul><li>outer diameter, stem diameter, stem length, cone angle</li><li>air gap (so air can escape while stuff flows in)</li><li>“turbo” fins (number, angle, depth), also good for holding filtration paper away from the funnel walls</li></ul>This is a vase mode model, so it needs only a few grams of filament and prints fairly quickly. If a funnel gets messed up beyond cleaning, not much plastic is wasted.&nbsp;Printing:<ul><li>use vase mode</li><li>set extrusion width to 0.7mm (or more) for stability (0.4mm or 0.6mm nozzle)</li><li>set bottom layers to 0</li></ul>A note on “turbo” finsI&#39;d like to comment on those turbo fins: I consider them mostly useless. Some think that a vortex speeds up flow, but that is true only under some conditions: e.g. to get water out of a bottle. The vortex forms a stable air channel in the center, so air can get in while the liquid pours out. Without it the rising air bubbles get into the way of the falling liquid. The same problem can arise when funneling some liquid into a bottle and the funnel covers the whole bottleneck. Then a vortex can help – if it is strong enough to indeed form an air channel. I&#39;ve seen “turbo” funnels, where those ‘turbo’ features are way to shallow to bring the vortex up to speed, and most design&#39;s vortex fins actually get very steep near the bottom and thus slow down any vortex motion…If the funnel does NOT close up the bottle neck, air can escape at the side, and a vortex is not needed at all. Actually it&#39;s counterproductive, as the centrifugal force counteracts the water getting down. My conclusion: If your funnel can block the bottleneck, use a funnel with a built-in air gap.&nbsp;However I implemented turbo fins for 2 reasons: <ul><li>For you to try out if they actually can help funneling. I also implemented a version with fins that do not get nearly vertical near the bottom.</li><li>These fins can be useful for filtration. They keep a gap between filter and funnel wall and thus allow already filtered liquid coming out at the side to easily flow down. Many coffee machines use those fins, too.</li></ul>

parametric vase mode funnel

vehicle

ShatteredVirtue

This model is specifically designed for the BR151, however this model seems to be a very common model of robot vacuum that is used by various companies.&nbsp;This model does require some assembly and gluing as the bristles used are from a broom to maintain the same properties from the original part, however it is easy to do, and the model comes with pieces to help with assembly.&nbsp;Before following through on the below steps, please ensure that all your pieces fit together (except for the holders), and the brush nodes fit onto your vacuum. Depending on your printer tolerances you may need to adjust the size of the pieces 1%-2% depending on the fit.&nbsp;Step 1 - Acquire bristles from a common broom head. Acquire in small batches to prevent waste.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476143/design/2024-05-26_3bab1623ce17.png"></figure>Step 2 - Place bristles into holder to build up an sufficient amount of bristles to add the the vacuum brush replacement. My rule of thumb is that you should have enough that you have some resistance when moving the bristles within the holder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476143/design/2024-05-26_1d54b97ad4f36.png"></figure>Step 3 - Add glue into brush arm socket, superglue has a decent viscosity to properly coat the bristles inside the arm.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476143/design/2024-05-26_66bc9bd6b7bd1.png"></figure>Step 4 - Insert bristles into arm socket filled with glue buy holding both the arm and the holder together, and pushing in the bristles.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476143/design/2024-05-26_92b3be004767e.png"></figure>Step 5 - If the bristles are sufficiently in the socket, and you&#39;re happy with the result, move the holder away from the brush arm, but keep the holder on the bristles to prevent frayed pieces from falling off as it dries. Do this carefully to not accidentally remove the bristles. This is done so you don&#39;t accidentally glue the holder to the arm. (Repeat steps 1 through 4 for each arm that you need for your replacements, 3 per brush node)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476143/design/2024-05-26_3cebc8fa2412c.png"></figure>&nbsp;Step 5 - Once your glue has dried (varies depending on the glue used.) Insert the arms into the main brush node, and remove the bristle holder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476143/design/2024-05-26_6e6d0e5a161a8.png"></figure>&nbsp;If you complete these steps above, you should have yourself a functional replacement brush for your robot vacuum, so you can breath new life into your robot vacuum instead of having to buy a new one, or find the replacement part via a shady/slow manufacturer site.

Robot Vacuum Brush Replacement - No Supports

cleaning

CK Designs

This is my take on the attachable Packout feet. I have connected the feet in sets of two or 4 to make aligning them to the bottom of whatever you want to attach them to easier. I have also created a pair that have a locking tab on the front to more securely lock whatever you are wanting to attach, all you have to do is pull up on the tab and slide out almost like a normal Packout box. I have also added files for feet that can go down the middle of a box as well for anyone that would like the feet more centered, along with an individual foot that is a much tighter fit since it doesn&#39;t have a lock.&nbsp;The third picture is showing the different screws that I have found that fit through the holes to mount them. The max size I have found that fits are #6 screws as well as M4 bolts. M5 bolts will work as well but you will have to use the screw or a tap to thread the plastic.&nbsp;The last picture is showing an M4 bolt coming up through the bottom of the foot and I thought that you could use a paint pin to mark the top of the bolt and press whatever you are wanting to mount onto it so it will mark the holes perfectly.

Packout Feet Easy Alignment

Milwaukee 

Jorge Rui

<blockquote>This design is free for the benefit of the community, but If you like my designs and want to contribute, you can make a donation to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/designrepcom" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee </a>or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=BUM67EMDJRXSN&amp;no_recurring=0&amp;currency_code=EUR" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal, </a>that will be greatly appreciated.&nbsp;For a small help use this affiliate link to buy fillament, it will cost you the same. Thanks !<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">Filaments used on this project</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpox" rel="nofollow noopener">Complete hotend for the X series</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpoy" rel="nofollow noopener">Hotend with nozzle X series</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpov" rel="nofollow noopener">Other Accessories</a>&nbsp;</blockquote><h2>A note about this model</h2>There is a nes and updated version of this, with a modular approach, based on my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/13415?profileId=13268" rel="nofollow noopener">MMSS</a>, and is available <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@jorge_rui" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_37429ce72890f.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_b69a4d08ab4d8.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_8fb4405968195.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_de4c9a7b9700e.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_97413a6c36b6a.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_b12c00384f143.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Nevertheless, this one was my first take on this, and I think it’s nice for you to have something to store your tools and accessories ;)&nbsp;This is a debugged version of the initial release. It presents all the updates and some improvements that have been implemented in the meantime. This version will be updated over time.The entire production sequence was updated in order to translate the comments that were made over time by members. However, you are free to define your own printing strategy. The colored areas are already found as separate objects, therefore it is not necessary to use the painting tool, an exception for the areas where the accessories come reside; in this situation, I chose not to create different bodies, as it is my opinion it would take too long to print, increasing the potential for errors. In this last situation, and if you want, you can simply use the “area painting tool”.<h2>Instructions</h2>ClipsSome examples regarding fits and snapfits. <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/TNyjlRgM0HY" rel="nofollow noopener">(youtube link)</a>&nbsp;Extra material:<ul><li>For the hinges, you will need 2x M4x30 CHC ISO 4762, or a FHC of the same size. If you don&#39;t have that you can print.</li><li>You may want the scrape… you can find it <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/531116-small-scraper-tool" rel="nofollow noopener">here, it is a model that I&#39;ve Remixed</a></li><li>spacer_ silicon_sock.STEP - needed if you have a narrow silicon sock on the hotend (most people will need this)</li></ul><h3>Change Log:</h3><ul><li>(31-08-2023) Revised Latch - More functional<ul><li>Optimizations and various dimensional compensations.</li><li>New 3mf file, which I hope will make the printing process simpler and with a higher success rate.</li></ul></li><li>(29-04-2024) Revised Latch - More functional <ul><li>Optimizations and various dimensional compensations.</li><li>New 3mf file, which I hope will make the printing process simpler and with a higher success rate.</li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;