user_1411547472

Leif3D

This is a little upload for the fellow designers and creative people who might want to create some accessories for the Samsung SmartTag 2. This dummy model can help you with the dimensions and features of the device, even if you don't have the real one.  I've also added my Fusion file. The white part on my photo is where the speaker grill is located. Have fun.

Samsung SmartTag 2 Dummy with Fusion File

smarttag misc

ProjectSkyDroid

Full front and back case for Samsung Z Fold5 with integrated s-pen slot.I wanted a case that could provide decent protection, while also allowing me to have the s-pen attached. The problems I encountered with other cases were that the official Samsung version is just crazy expensive at $99, so not interested. 3rd party versions were ‘ok’, but i couldn't find a decent option that got the s-pen to be almost completely flat within the case and not have a giant hump where the pen is held. This was important to me because I wanted to retain the ability to place the phone in a car mount, and not have to remove the pen because it didn't sit flat enough in the mount. Other options I explored were cases that move the pen holder to the side of the case, which I found to be terrible to hold the phone and interfered with things like the fingerprint reader.&nbsp;This is what I came up with after a lot a testing and adjusting the sizing of various aspects taking some inspriations from various different cases and trying to pick the best aspects and improve on things. I printed mine in PLA-CF and have been using it for several months and hit has held up amazingly. While not required, I would highly recommend affixing some thin double-side 3m tape to the inside face of the case, which keeps things nice and snug and keeps the case from shifting at all during every day use.&nbsp;As designed, it has been fine-tuned to not interfere at all with the opening and closing of the fold. You'll also notice a tappering on the front casing near the finger print scanner. This is something I add after first attempt to minimize any interference of the fingerprint reader by surrounding case. It completely resolved the initial issue I had, and work fine with my fingers at least.&nbsp;The profiles provided and the orientation of the cases have optimal support and positions settings to allow for a nice clean print and easy removal of supports. Using PLA-CF I did not have to use an alternate support material, and the supports separated cleanly with little effort.&nbsp;Using with this pen:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CDV81GPZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon.com: Galazy Z Fold 5 S Pen Fold Edition,Z Fold 5 Slim S Pen, Replacement for Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5+Tips/Nibs (Black) : Cell Phones & Accessories</a>

Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5 Case with Integrated Slim Pen Holder

Phone stuff

cb-print

The Crater wallet is a slim profile, front or back carry wallet that is majority 3D printed. The inspiration for the wallet came from the well-known Ridge wallet, but I could never stomach the price for the real thing. So, I made this instead.&nbsp;The plates can be printed, machined, whatever. I&#39;ve included both STL and F3* (Fusion360) models to make it easier to work with. The assembly is extremely straight forward and requires minimal extra hardware. The following parts will be needed aside from the 3D printed plates: - M2x3mm self-tapping screw, you can use 4mm but you&#39;ll need to shave them down a tiny bit (x12)- 1&#34; or 25mm wide <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/iUGtISQ" rel="nofollow noopener">elastic strap</a> or whatever you want just make sure it&#39;s stretchy (6.5&#34;/165mm length) - Adhesive of your choice, just needs to be strong (I&#39;m a sucker for JB Weld products and in this case <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/aVzSOGh" rel="nofollow noopener">Plastic Weld</a>)&nbsp;After printing the plates and gathering up your hardware, assembly is as simple as gluing and screwing.&nbsp;Glue one end of the strap to one of your base plates. The strap needs to be as close to center as possible. There is a little room to play with, so it doesn&#39;t need to be perfect. Let the glue dry at least a few hours, preferably as long as your adhesive suggests.&nbsp;Once dry, you&#39;ll need to take your other base plate (without a glued-on strap) and attach it&#39;s faceplate using the self-tapping screws. Don&#39;t worry about the strap being in there right now. The plate assemblies are made to have the strap slide in and out. Once assembled, slide the strap through the opening in the side of your new assembly.&nbsp;After you have the strap threaded through one of the plate assemblies, you will need to glue the remaining open end of the strap to the first base plate, completing the loop. I like to use a clamp for both gluing steps, but would highly recommend at least using a clamp for this part as the tension from the final assembly will pull the strap out of position.&nbsp;Give the glue another few hours to dry before screwing the remaining faceplate onto its base, and then you&#39;re good to go.&nbsp;A note on attaching the strap: - I&#39;ve played with using M2x3mm screws to attach it and that proved to work well. You&#39;ll need to really get those suckers screwed in to keep the faceplates flush during final assembly. I usually do 2-3 screws per strap-end.