tyrannic_puppy

reddadsteve

Sylvester James Pussycat, Sr. is a fictional character, an anthropomorphic tuxedo cat in the Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies series of cartoons.Sylvester appeared in 103 cartoons and most of his appearances have him often chasing Tweety, Speedy Gonzales, or Hippety Hopper. Three of his cartoons won Academy Awards, the most for any starring Looney Tunes character. Sylvester's trademark exclamation is "Sufferin' succotash!"No supports are required. One piece contains built-in supports, an optional part without the built-in supports is also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports. If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.The assembled model is 200mm tall.Enjoy! ...........................................................................................................**Print Instructions:** Supports: No Resolution: .2mm Infill: 10%Notes:**Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly instructions............................................................................................................**Building the model**ColorsBlack: (Paramount3D PLA - Black) body_black body_black_without_supports (optional piece without built-in supports) eye_blacks (contains two identical pieces) whiskers_right (contains two identical pieces) whiskers_left (contains two identical pieces) foot_pad_left foot_pad_right ..Red: (Hachbox PLA - True Red) mouth nose ..White: (Overture PLA - White) eye_white_left eye_white_right tail_white body_white hand_left hand_right foot_left foot_right ear_left ear_right hair_back_left hair_back_right ..Pearl: (Protoparadigm PLA, out of business - White Pearl) claws_hands (contains eight identical pieces) claws_feet (contains six identical pieces) ..Pink: (Paramount3D PLA - Harajuku Pink) tongue...........................................................................................................**Printing and assembly tips**Printing tips 1 - No supports are required. 2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part. For the smaller parts, a good first layer is helpful.*I used brims on: claws_hands claws_feet hand_left hand_right3 - I used a pearl white color for the claws to hightlight them. A clear transparent with a higher infill may work well, or a silky white.4 - The body_black piece is taller than any of my other models. It fits on my Prusa MK3 but not on the Prusa mini. Be sure to check this part first to ensure your printer can handle the height. The model can be resized down, but be careful to check that the small parts can still be printed... Assembly tips:1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process.2 - I used E6000 sticky craft glue to put this model together. The sticky glue allows more time to position the parts than a fast drying superglue. I have 'fat fingers' and a shaky hand, so the sticky glue works out best for me, especially with small pieces. Just remember to leave enough time for the glue to set before combining too many parts.3 - Be sure to insert the body_white (with completed mouth/tongue) into the body_black before attaching the hands.4 - All the claws have round bases. Be sure to rotate the nail in the correct direction when inserting and gluing them in.5 - The whiskers fit perfectly, but need to be positioned correctly to insert them. The flat side from the printer bed faces back. The holes are notched and the whiskers only fit one way. Personally, I had to keep poking around to fit them in but once positioned correctly they slid right in.6 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.&nbsp;

Sylvester the Cat

TV and Cartoons

Noob2Geek

Filaments Used: PLA BambuLab Basic Black Transmission Distance: 0.3 PLA BambuLab Basic Brown Transmission Distance: 2 PLA BambuLab Matte Latte Brown Transmission Distance: 2 PLA+ eSun White TBC Transmission Distance: 5&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #8 (0.8mm) swap to Brown At layer #11 (1.04mm) swap to Latte Brown At layer #17 (1.52mm) swap to White TBC for the rest.

Lotr no admittance except on party business

Movie Props

LBprace

No entry warning sign.My own design with dimensions of 200x140 mm

No entry sign

Signs

GreyCanadianWizard

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.08mmFilaments Used:     PETG BambuLab Basics Blue Gray Transmission Distance: 2.7     PETG JAYO Black Transmission Distance: 0.3     PETG BambuLab Basics Nature Transmission Distance: 8     PETG BambuLab Basics White Transmission Distance: 3.5Swap Instructions:     Start with Blue Gray     At layer #21 (0.88mm) swap to Black     At layer #25 (1.04mm) swap to Nature     At layer #35 (1.44mm) swap to White for the rest.

Map of Middle Earth using 0.2mm nozzle

Maps

3DMakeryDE

<h3>Update 09.05.2024:</h3>Added another print profile for a optional &#34;badge&#34; you can glue on the frame.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:56.14%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000455922/design/2024-05-09_2b275c3f343ba.jpeg"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Original post</h2>Loved this game as a child (18 year old child of course) so I decided to make this map and give myself a challenge.&nbsp;It is a 3D Map and uses 9 (!) colors to print. But you need only 1 AMS to print it. For best results you should use a 0,2mm nozzle (the docks in the south are pretty tiny)&nbsp;Please check the print instructions below!&nbsp;Also included in one of the printing profiles are the vice city logo and a fitting frame for the map. You can hang it onto your walls as decoration of just lay it flat on a table.&nbsp;The size of the map is 245mm x 225mm x 5mmWith the frame its 273mm x 253mm x 15mmThe logo is about 50mm x 25mm&nbsp;The map takes around 25h to print&nbsp;No glue required. Maybe some sanding for the frame parts&nbsp;<h3>Print instructions:</h3>You need 9 colors: (10 if you print the logo)<ul><li>Black</li><li>White</li><li>Light grey</li><li>Dark grey</li><li>Light green</li><li>Dark green</li><li>Blue</li><li>Yellow</li><li>Brown</li><li>Optional: Pink (for the logo)</li></ul>&nbsp;<h4>Step 1: Fill AMS with these colors</h4><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Slot 1</td><td>Slot 2</td><td>Slot 3</td><td>Slot 4</td></tr><tr><td>Blue</td><td>Light Grey</td><td>Dark Green</td><td>Black</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h4>Step 2: Start print</h4><h4>Step 3: Change filament I</h4><ul><li>Wait for the print to pause</li><li>Change filament in slot 1 from blue to yellow</li><li>Resume print</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Slot 1</td><td>Slot 2</td><td>Slot 3</td><td>Slot 4</td></tr><tr><td>Yellow</td><td>Light Grey</td><td>Dark Green</td><td>Black</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h4>Step 4: Change filament II</h4><ul><li>Wait for the print to pause</li><li>Unload filament the current filament and write down which AMS slot it was!<ul><li>Since this is a simple pause in the gcode, the current used filament is still loaded and cannot be pulled out in order to change the spool</li></ul></li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000455922/design/2024-05-06_817bd2bf16dd2.png"></li><li>Change filaments in all AMS slots</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Slot 1</td><td>Slot 2</td><td>Slot 3</td><td>Slot 4</td></tr><tr><td>Brown</td><td>Dark Grey</td><td>Light Green</td><td>White</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><ul><li>Very important!!!!<ul><li>Load the Filament into the slot you wrote down before changing the spools<ul><li>Since this was a simple pause in the gcode, the filament will not be pulled in automatically, but need to be loaded manually.</li></ul></li></ul></li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000455922/design/2024-05-06_889d7915c919b.png"></li></ul><h4>Step 5: resume print</h4><h4>Step 6: Enjoy</h4><h3>Assembly instructions:</h3><ul><li>Assemble 2x frame top/bot and 1x frame right/left</li><li>Slide the map in</li><li>Assemble remaining frame top/bot</li><li>Optional: Glue the logo</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000455922/design/2024-05-06_560a5c537230b.png"></figure>

GTA Vice City 3D Map

Gaming

Litolunar

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.1mm&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #7 (0.58mm) swap to Jade White At layer #14 (1.14mm) swap to Black At layer #15 (1.22mm) swap to morado At layer #18 (1.46mm) swap to Jade White for the rest.

Hueforge Donatello

t.schafer

A model of the queen elizibeth tower that i have created in sketchup. Model should not require any supports but use your own judgement regarding brims dependant upon your setup.

BIG BEN (Queen Elizibeth Tower)

Architecture

jarvizar

3d miniature of the Nürburgring in Nürburg, Germany!&nbsp;Includes an AMS-compatible multicolor print profile highlighting both the Nordschleife & Grand Prix circuit! (AKA the 24hr layout)&nbsp;Model created in Blender primarily using data from the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/vvoovv/blosm" rel="nofollow noopener">Blosm</a> addon.&nbsp;&nbsp;Smaller Nürburgring highlighting the GP circuit: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/180660#profileId-198781" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/180660#profileId-198781</a>&nbsp;Check out my collection of other miniatures: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/146964" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/146964</a>&nbsp;Collection of F1 Miniatures: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/450282" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/450282</a>&nbsp;<h3>Slicing & Printing Details</h3>&nbsp;This model was designed to be printed with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.16mm layer heights.Try using a 0.2mm nozzle (0.08mm layer heights) or scaling up for even finer detail!&nbsp;Note: If roads or other small details disappear after slicing, try lowering the extrusion/line width of external perimeters (outer walls) closer to 0.4mm OR use Arachne walls (can also enable “Detect Thin Walls”). The included “Designer Profile” should have the above settings pre-applied and is ready to slice & print!&nbsp;Filament used in photos: Sunlu Matte White (miniature), Bambu Matte Charcoal/Black (frame), Sunlu Sky Blue (water)&nbsp;<h3>Framing Details</h3>&nbsp;This model measures almost exactly 7.5x9.5in (242.31mm X 191.08mm) and should fit most 8x10 frames (assuming frame lip/overlap is around a half-inch). Feel free to change the scale/size of the model(s) to meet your needs.&nbsp;&nbsp;I also included a large printable frame designed to fit my large miniature cities!&nbsp;Note: This is a “large” miniature and will not fit the smaller ~5x7inch printable frame included with the other miniature cities!&nbsp;&nbsp;Personally I use these cheap 8x10 frames from Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XVP48KQ" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XVP48KQ</a>And blue printer paper: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Astrobrights-491618-Multipurpose-8-5-Inch-11-Inch/dp/B00006IDQT" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IDQT</a> (not needed for this model since there is no “water”)&nbsp;&nbsp;A frame is not required! This model looks great by itself and can be displayed almost anywhere.&nbsp;&nbsp;See my <a target="_blank" href="http://patreon.com/jarvizar" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> for a commercial license, early downloads, polls towards future models, and more!&nbsp;

Nordschleife Nurburgring 3D Mini (Large)

Tracks

Wcad00

Update december 1st<ul><li>the chair is modified with a larger magnet hole </li><li>the missiles from the underside launcher are a little smaller</li><li>the back gun now has an aligment to make it easier to fit</li><li>updated the assembly pdf with the underside launcher and cockpit assembly</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;This is my take on a batwing. its 100% my design and a real labor of love for me. assembly is pretty strait forward.the model is almost 80 cm across so be mindful of that. also attached an assembly guide, not the best, but like i said, it shoud be pretty straight forward..all pieces printed perfectly and require no sanding.Hope you enjoy this model and whom ever decides to take on this print please feel free to contact me for anything.its all printed in BL matt charcoal PLA, and i have to say it turned out gorgeousAlso it is split so that all plates print in 1-2 hours, so it minimises the printers usage; there are two exceptions on the large parts of the wings but that is it.&nbsp;Also photos are available athttps://s.go.ro/vs3zltii | password: 230926there are over 60 so i couldnt upload them here.Next few days i will upload better quality photos of the entire plane&nbsp;I also have a project for a batman beyond style vehicle, it will be proportional to this one. so stay tuned if you like my overall aesthetic .

Batwing

Aircraft

Diggle

Needed some brackets for a project that I'm working on using 2020 extrusion. Hope these are handy for others.&nbsp;M4x8mm BoltsM4 2020 T-nuts

2020 Extrusion Brackets

Fixings

Edward Felix

This is a one sixth scale classic Dalek from Doctor Who!&nbsp;This is designed to be printed using a multi-colour 3D printer, such as a bambulab, prusa, or any of the new printers coming out with the ability to print with multiple materials at the time of writing. That said, if you want, you can put all the parts into a single colour printer and then paint after the fact, have fun.&nbsp;To assemble, each part has been split into pieces which correspond to different potential colours. So you bring in parts that have the same name except for the number at the end. To print the eye for example, you would want to bring in the following files: Dalek_Eye_colour_1.stl Dalek_Eye_colour_2.stl Dalek_Eye_colour_3.stl Dalek_Eye_colour_4.stl These don't have to all be assigned to different colours if you have a printer that can only print up to two colours, or if you want to remix how things are done. For example, in the pictured dalek, I only used black and grey for pretty much everything except the dome and eye, although you can use any colours or any number of colours that you want.&nbsp;Also included is the .3mf file from when I printed the dalek on my bambulab printer so you can see how I set it up and sliced.To assemble the dalek, it has been designed so that each section can bolt together using M3 nuts and bolts. There are two extra unused attachment points at the base of the dalek skirt, should you want to design some sort of interior or mechanical element of your own to allow for easy mounting.&nbsp;The dalek was designed at one sixth scale to match the figures made by Big Chief Studios. However, should you want it bigger at one fifth scale to match the larger Character Options figures, you can simply scale all the parts by a factor of 1.2, a one fouth scale dalek would need everything to be scaled up by a factor of 1.5. At these scales though, M3 bolts will not be the correct size to hold the dalek together, and you will need to source alternative fittings.

Multi-Colour Classic Dalek - 1/6 Scale

Sci Fi

Vergil

<blockquote>2023-10-02 Update!I've updated the Lid frame & Complete Lid files thanks to the feedback. I know it's funny to do an update on a literal bin, but here we go I guess!<ol><li>The update adds a small retainer radius for the trap door so it doesn't fall out by itself anymore. You can still “force remove” it, but if you clip it back it actually stays put now. </li><li>I've also increased the height of the inner wall so it sits more securely in the bin. Adds a tiny bit of material but it feels more roboust.</li></ol>Important to note: You don't need to print out the whole complete Lid assembly again! If you already have the parts you just need the frame! I've added a profile just for that and replaced the lid assembly with R2. Old files are removed as of now.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/60098/2023-10-02_7649a13ad0209.png"></figure></blockquote>&nbsp;&nbsp;Bin dimensions: 100x100x115 mm so it fits quite a bit of mess before needing to be emptied.---The Bin can be used by itself and should be printed in Vase mode. It's a solid model. I highly suggest using the following settings (if not the project files are used):<ul><li>Line/wall width: 0.8 mm</li><li>First layer width: 0.8 mm</li><li>Bottom layers: at least 3</li><li>Layer height: 0.2 mm (text looks better with 0.16, otherwise doesn't matter much)</li></ul>I uploaded the .3mf files with the settings. You can change the material etc… but it contains the 0.8 settings for thicker walls. You can print it fine with the default 0.4 Nozzle. Makes the Bin a lot more rigid but still print fast. I used Fillamentum's Crystal Clear PLA to print it with basically the generic PLA settings.Print time: ~1h26m with 0.2 layers Material: 46 g---The Complete Lid consists of 2 parts. You can print them together at once and move the trapdoor a little to release them after printing. Or if you want to mix up the colors without AMS, I added them separately as well. Uploaded the .3mf file for this one too. Generally this part is not that picky for settings, but here's a few suggestions:<ul><li>Print with the text facing the build plate</li><li>Bottom layers: 3-4</li><li>Top layers 2-3</li><li>Textured PEI plate for nice look</li><li>10% Grid infill at least so the lid has some weight to close itself, you can use combine infill option to save a little time</li></ul>Print time: ~37m with 0.2 layers Material: 26 gYou can remove the trapdoor if it annoys you flapping around. The frame alone gives a nice touch too if you print in a different color than the base.

Plastic Waste Bin

Tools

Js 3D Printing

I designed this to dry my dessicant inside my filament dryer. Select max temperature and leave for 12 hours. Stir once in a while or until returned to original color. Print with PETG or ASA. I used a local filament from Fil X called SBS that is heat resistant and slightly flexible.

Desiccant drying basket to fit Sunlu 2 filament dryer

Drying

derhein

This filament shelf is designed to use two hollow aluminum pipes (outer diameter 20 mm, 1 mm wall thickness). The pipes slot into the holders.The files include two holders (left and right) as well as an optional center piece for supporting longer pipes. I used 1 meter pipes and don't need the center support. Fully loaded with 14-15 spools, the pipes hold up well for me.<h4>Variants: </h4>short: Use only left and right mount (up to 1 m pipe) long: Use left, right and center mount (>1 m pipe) creative: Use multiple “center” mounts for solid pipes, longer versions, etc. <h4>Printing</h4>Print on its side, I would recommend at least three perimeters and 20 % infill. (Thats how I printed mine in PETG, they hold up well)I recommend adding tree supports for the screw holes.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/522581/rich_content/80d8ecff-6eab-4293-8167-560ecdd8edb7/shelf-slicer.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2259b3f103-1f13-4b38-b03c-e34b0d7b8490%22%2C%22w%22%3A1471%2C%22h%22%3A1102%7D"><h4>Mounting</h4>I highly recommend using screws (diameter 4-6 mm) in combination with washers. This way, the mounting pressure is distributed on a larger area and I don't think that they will ever come off the wall. The srew holes are 6.5 mm in diameter. The recesses for washers are 18.5 mm in diameter.Mounting it is a two person job (maybe you can do it alone, but it will be finnicky)<ol><li>Assemble the rack with both pipes (slot them in) to get the templates for your drilling holes.</li><li>Set the rack onto the wall and level it as a whole. </li><li>Mark the screw points on the wall.</li><li>Drill holes, insert dowels.</li><li>Screw one holder to the wall (use washers!).</li><li>Insert the aluminum pipes into the holder and slot on the other side holder.</li><li>Screw the second holder (use washers!).</li><li>Insert screw caps into the holes.</li><li>Done! </li></ol>Mounting hardware I used:screws: 5 x 50 mm (flat head) washers: 6.4 x 18 x 1.6 mm concrete dowels (bore 8 mm, 45 mm lenght)You can adapt based on your needs.<h4>Customization</h4>I have attached the Fusion 360 files (parametric) for easy modification. Within reason you should be able to change the pipe dimension by just changing the parameters.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:61.66%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/206702/2023-10-06_j4tvwhdr5t3l.png"></figure>

Filament Shelf

Storage

TripleGWorkshop

Original attribution is 80's Nerd Bomb - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/195268-mcu-thors-hammer-mjolnir" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/195268-mcu-thors-hammer-mjolnir</a> the license was changed after I created these.&nbsp;PLEASE UPDATE YOUR FILES to ensure the best fit. (updated 1/10/23) Stronger Handle and simpler labeling for less mistakes.49 hours too much? Try 60% version→ <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/prints/279414-thors-hammer-mjolnir-2-piece-screw-together-60-sca" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/prints/279414-thors-hammer-mjolnir-2-piece-screw-together-</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/125689/2023-10-27_qwc5rzumwdek.jpg"></figure>I used Prusament My Silverness PLA and Mystic Brown PLA.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/125689/2023-10-27_8xwtotmzq6ar.jpg"></figure>I tried to print this at .30 layers and the handle got too tight. If this happens try printing the threaded handle segment at 99%.

🗲 Full-Size Mjolnir 3-piece screw together (Thor's Hammer) 🗲

Marvel

tellus1019

This is a foldable spool side mount.&nbsp;The length has been extended 50mm from the original data. This prevents the spool from protruding too far back. The following bolts and nuts are required for installation.&nbsp;Bolt M4x45 Bolt M3x6 (x2) Bolt M3x10 Bolt M3x12 Nut M3 (x2)

Bambu Lab X1C / P1S / P1P Foldable Side Spool Mount (Long)

Printer Mods

Nils N3DP

Danish Brick Lightsaber Lifesize

Star Wars

SnapPrint3D_SuperCrazyPrints

Sign up Membership to get 15+ models every month. All models 3D Print Without Supports and (3MF,STL) file ready! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.supercrazyprints.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.supercrazyprints.com/</a>&nbsp;Check out my other models: <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/users/Scrazyone_SnapPrint3D/3d-models" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/users/Scrazyone_SnapPrint3D/3d-models</a>&nbsp;

Pokemon-Charmander (NO SUPPORT)

Pokemon

Bearded Dad Designz

Made these awesome coaster for those Harry Potter fans

Harry Potter Platform 9 3/4 Coasters

Harry Potter

martin.taichl

This is my project Teltak. Here I designed a Teltak or a Goauld cargo ship from Star Gate. The project comes in 2 versions. Static and Retractable. Static is - as the name suggests - model that is composed of three parts and is completely static. Retractable has the "flight mode" with the fins and "landing mode" with the wings/fins retracted into the body and the sides slide inwards. For the simplification process. I uploaded the "retractable" version in 7z archive. The retractable version is little bit more difficult so i strongly suggest to watch the playlist: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wb0pRdVvpQ8&list=PLyHwaiEHdyZpi98UzuE1o6s8cf8EyuBC6" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wb0pRdVvpQ8&list=PLyHwaiEHdyZpi98UzuE1o6s8cf8EyuBC6</a><h3> </h3>