trent

NoycePrints

Meet Dum-E, the handy desk helper industrial robot. I designed it with purpose in mind as it can function as a phone stand, webcam mount (logitech c920) and a business card holder. It doesn&#39;t end there though, as I aim to develop this platform with further attachments in future. These may be recommended from others and/ or what I think might be useful. I hope you find it useful and please feel free to comment any recommendations for attachments you would like to see in future. I look forward to seeing your different uses/ prints and colour schemes. Thank you for your continued support :)&nbsp;To keep files from getting complicated, I have only included the phone stand attachment in this upload. I have placed optional attachments in a sperate upload available on my profile titled “Dum-E optional attachments”. This will be periodically updated with new wrist attachments I think may be of use or other people suggest. Printing helper<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Part</td><td>Quantity</td><td>Infill</td><td>Supports required</td></tr><tr><td>Arm 1</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>YES</td></tr><tr><td>Arm 2</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Shoulder Joint</td><td>1</td><td>30%</td><td>YES</td></tr><tr><td>Wrist to attachment connector</td><td>1</td><td>40%+</td><td>YES</td></tr><tr><td>Turntable</td><td>1</td><td>20%</td><td>NO</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Part</td><td>Quantity</td><td>Infill</td><td>Supports required</td></tr><tr><td>Base</td><td>1</td><td>20%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Feet</td><td>1</td><td>20%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>XL motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Large motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Medium motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Small motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Part</td><td>QTY</td><td>Infill</td><td>Supports required</td></tr><tr><td>Phone stand backing</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Phone stand bottom</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>NO</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Required for assembly Superglue for fake motor attachment and Nitrile cord.1mm nitrile rubber cord, 16cm should be enough for 1 complete arm. This is only required between joints if you intend on supporting the weight of a phone etc. Alternatively, if you have TPU filament you can use Fat Tony&#39;s handy TPU O-rings. They&#39;re a quick print and don&#39;t require superglue to fit. You can get them here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/205832#profileId-225948" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/205832#profileId-225948</a> Thanks again for the great alternative Tony!&nbsp;As an optional extra, I&#39;d recommend using 4x 3M 6mm Anti-slip sticky back rubber feet. They fit in recessed circles in the corners of the feet.&nbsp; Screws: A total of 13 are required for the arm plus 3 for the phone stand, listed below.M3x10mm - QTY 12 - available on the store, linked below.M3x15mm - QTY 3M5x30mm - QTY 1Foot: 4x M3x10mm countersunk.Base: 1x M3x15mm countersunk.Shoulder joint to Arm 2 rotation point: 1x M5x30mm countersunk.Turntable: 4x M3x10mm countersunk.Rotation point between Arm 1 and Arm 2: 1x M3x15mm countersunk.Arm 1 to wrist connector rotation point: 1x M3x15mm countersunk.Coupling attachment to wrist: 1x M3x10mm countersunk.3 M3x10mm screws are required for the Phone stand. Assembly tipsCut 3 lengths of Nitrile cord, 74, 55 and 30mm in length. Glue one side of each and cure into individual circles. These will be glued on one side between the 3 separate joints on the arm. Doing this will vastly improve the holding capacity of the arm as it will provide more friction between the joints, helping to prevent them from sagging under weight.The 74mm circle goes between the elbow joint and arm 2.The 55mm circle goes between the arm 1 and 2 joint.The 30mm circle goes between the arm 1 and wrist attachment connector.I have added 3 pictures as a guide at the end of the gallery.

Dum-E the handy desk buddy. Lamp, stand, holder 

utility-tools

Elegant Marble Machines

<h2>Summary</h2>Introducing Apex—an entrancing 3D printed marble machine. Watch the marbles carefully as the spiral lifts them up, and they weave down a plinko board, stairs, and various other tracks.&nbsp;The machine uses 8mm or 5/16&#34; marbles (the distinction is negligible), but can be scaled up proportionally to use larger marbles.Video: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76Xtjbtv-K8" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76Xtjbtv-K8</a>&nbsp;If you like marble machines, check out some of my other work! <a target="_blank" href="https://elegantmachines.etsy.com" rel="nofollow noopener">https://elegantmachines.etsy.com</a>&nbsp;Dimensions: -Length: 6.75&#34; (170mm) -Width: 5.75&#34; (150mm) -Height: 5.5&#34; (140mm)&nbsp;*Please ensure ball bearings are out of reach for children under 5, as they present a potential choking hazard. <h2>Print settings</h2>No supports are required for any of the four main files (everything except the crank). A layer height of around 0.16mm (or 0.2mm) is recommended, at least for the main machine. A printer bed size of at least 170mm x 170mm X 140mm is needed. The crank is another, optional, way to spin the marble machine, and does require supports to print.<h2>The story</h2>I designed this machine over the summer of 2023. Surprisingly, the failure rate (number of marbles that fell out or jammed / number of marbles cycled) was only 0.4% for the first version of the design--not bad! I raised a few walls, added a few supports, and made the track steeper in a few places; the second iteration had a much better failure rate of 0.06%. Still, that wasn&#39;t up to my standards (below 0.02%). Fortunately, the third version did meet standards; it had no failures after cycling 20,000 marbles. Still, I didn&#39;t stop there. Since then, I&#39;ve optimized the design further, cutting out unnecessary supports, reducing filament usage, and reinforcing various sections. As of December 2023, I&#39;m on the eighth version of this design, and I still have ideas for micro-optimizing it.<h2> </h2>

Apex - Marble Machine

Novelty

Cubic Garden

A must-have decor for New Year 2024!&nbsp;It is going to be the Year of Dragon in 2024! A ‘wreath’ of a hi-detailed dragon in chinese antique decorative pattern, to hang on doors or just to make in your living room to have a vibe of culture.&nbsp;龍年裝飾環&nbsp;A stand is included if you are not hanging it up, please print with support.

Dragon carve art for New Year (english ver.)

Chinese

Shaztech.info

8 Trays HDD Box for NAS/ServerFully printed enclosure (you can print the external case or make your own in wood/metal/aluminium)Using long SATA/SAS cables, so no complicated electronicsAll parts are easily available on Amazon/Aliexpress/EbayTrays are available for 3.5 and 2.5in HDD/SSD&nbsp;Connect the fan to the 12V wire (Yellow)Connect the LED with the resistor to the 5V wire (Red)&nbsp;Overall dimensions: 268mm (10.55 in) wide, 214mm (8.43 in) depth, 152mm (6 in) Height&nbsp;Bill of Materials:42x - Torx Screws #4 x 1/2&#34; - McMaster #99512A219 8x - Socked Head Screws M3 x 22mm - McMaster #91290A124 1x - Computer Fan 120mm (with 4 screws) 1x - 5mm LED + resistor 2x - Quad SATA 1 Meter Cable (or SAS if you have a card) (see pictures) 8x - SATA Adapters Male to Female Straight (see pictures) 8x - SATA Power connector (Puncture type without soldering, can be salvaged from old cables) (see pictures) Some 16 gauge wires to create your power cable (2x Female molex to one end)&nbsp;If you want smaller check my 4 Trays box.(12 Trays 3U rack mountable coming soon….)&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/shaztech_info" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy me a coffee</a>

8 Trays HDD Enclosure (SATA/SAS)

Zurlingo-3D

A fully articulated Dragon model with no support or post processing required.-Designed to be strong at full scale. -A Very easy, fast print. -Perfect to give as a gift. -Looks great with 'fuzzy skin' enabled in your slicer. -Can be scaled up or down to suit your needs (minimum around 25%)The rendered skin is a digital texture only and not part of the actual model<h2>3D PRINTING SETTINGS</h2>-0.4mm Nozzle Diameter. -=<0.2mm Layer Height. -10% Gyroid Infill. -3 Perimeters or more. -'Bridge Mode' On -4 Top/Bottom Layers -Use A Skirt Or No Build Plate Adhesion -No Support&nbsp;COMMERCIAL LICENSE IS AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE HERE: <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/:1558471" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/:1558471</a>

'HORNY DRAGON' - PRINT-IN-PLACE, ARTICULATED DRAGON - SUPPORT FREE

characters

Jeff Smith

&nbsp;To jazz up the spindles a little, you can use <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/188091#profileId-207269" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Lite Universal Spindle Accents by Jeff Smith - MakerWorld</a> or create your own!&nbsp;Note: Any updates to the original instructions are noted at the bottom.&nbsp;AMS Lite Spool AdapterIf you’re tired of dealing with inserts, this or that when trying to use your AMS Lite with various spools, then you and I have that in common.&nbsp;I created this to solve this problem for me and am sharing it with the hope that it helps others. One of the requirements I had for this project was to NOT require any permanent change to the existing spindles, and to be able to use the existing springs if so desired. If an AMS Lite had to be sent back to Bambu for Warranty, it can easily be done.&nbsp;I printed these in Sunlu PLA white, while actually using one of the universal spindle adapters. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-08_2f12c34300d19.jpeg" alt="A red wire on a white objectDescription automatically generated">  <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtube.com/shorts/XcMvA8jkrwA?feature=share"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcMvA8jkrwA"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XcMvA8jkrwA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure>&nbsp;This has gone through my own testing, printing, tuning, adjusting and I have several others doing the same. That said, we don’t have every roll of filament out there so you might be the lucky owner of that roll we didn’t test with. I’ve spent perhaps 30 hours and a spool or two of white filament testing and tuning. Should you find a spool that doesn’t work somehow, your feedback would be greatly appreciated, and perhaps a picture/measurement or two as opposed to just slamming me via comment review.&nbsp;There are many ways the adapters can be used on a spindle, sometimes you may need 1, or 2, plus the nut. I usually just put the extra on the spindle anyway, so I don’t have to worry about where to put it.&nbsp;The replacement spindle is designed to be used with the existing springs.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-08_05aeb7e720245.jpeg" alt="A group of white objects on a tableDescription automatically generated">&nbsp;****IMPORTANT**** PUTTING THE SPRINGS BACK IN IS WHAT POSITIVELY HOLDS THE SPINDLE IN PLACE. IF YOU USE THE VERSION WITHOUT THE SPRINGS, OR CHOOSE NOT TO PUT THE SPRINGS BACK IN, YOU MUST USE AT LEAST 1 OF THE SLOT PLUGS PER SPINDLE. THE PLUG OR SPRINGS IS WHAT POSITIVELY KEEPS THE SPINDLE FROM SLIDING OFF. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-11_368d4d1a70a23.png">&nbsp;There are instructions on the Bambu Lab website on removing the springs (spool claw they call them) but I prefer to use a lever and push up through the hole on the inside of the spindle. The hole rotates with your finger to the appropriate spot.  My Video:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/mhIOksaNiXg"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mhIOksaNiXg" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure> <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams/maintenance/ams-lite-rotary" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS lite AMS Spool Claw Installation Tutorial | Bambu Lab Wiki</a>&nbsp;The new spindle will slip over the existing spindle once the springs are removed from the original. Then you can choose to put the springs (spool claw) back on or not as mentioned.&nbsp;Once ready, put the spindle assembly back in place on the AMS Lite paying attention to which is green, and which is yellow.I’ve included a few pictures of various spools and how I assemble them. Honestly, it’s pretty versatile and can be done almost the same way every time and work just fine across multiple spools with only a handful needing a different orientation.&nbsp;Couple of important notes: The .3MF file has tree support, support blockers around the threads as the threads should not need them based upon the size/angle. If you do, remove the support blockers. The only supports I used were primarily inside the universal spindle.&nbsp;These are the print settings in the .3MF and the ones I use for the nut (also shown below in Update #1) <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-10_0aa635e929f7a.png">&nbsp;2/29/2024 Update #2:&nbsp;<ol><li>Added a slight taper to the threads on the nut and the cylinder. Keep in mind the nut does not need to be tightened down to the last thread, it won&#39;t likely ever go on that far. If that still is too snug, see #1 in the list below.  </li><li>Added V3 stamp to the models so that I can keep track of which is which, and answer questions/address concerns accordingly.</li></ol>&nbsp;2/9/2024 Update #1:<ol><li>If the nut is too tight, depending on your printer, filament, etc. (it&#39;s meant to be a little snug at first) you can increase the size slightly in Bambu Slicer. These are the NUT dimensions I use in Bambu Slicer with V3 (your results may vary). Once printed, I put the nut on and rapidly twist the nut back and forth on the first few threads a couple times, then move in a couple threads. The friction will smooth out the threads and the will spin like the video below. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-10_0aa635e929f7a.png">  </li></ol><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtube.com/shorts/7kjdMEeS3LI?feature=share"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kjdMEeS3LI"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7kjdMEeS3LI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure><ol><li>If you are seeing too much stringing when printing with support blockers on the thread (I see them occasionally and just pull them off) and you would like to use supports on the threads instead, remove the large support blockers and replace them with something like this. Should allow the printer to easily bridge the open space (where the support blockers are) and then the supports will just pop off in pieces. Rough support contact may cause a snug fit so you would want to play with how the supports contact the threads. (again, I just prefer to not add the time for supports, or the hassle). Also recommend you print the threads at “silent” speed, on both the spindle (you can wait until the printer is at the threads on the spindle and change to silent to finish) and the nut.</li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.66%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-09_6a90b07e78dcf.png"></figure>Leaves a gap that allows the supports to be easily removed.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:48.98%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-09_233f2b79d97bd.png"></figure>&nbsp;2/11/2024 Update:My chief beta tester Diana wanted shorter spindles and less threads to decrease the width of the overall AMS Lite when this mod is in place. I removed a little over a half an inch in length from the spindles including thread. Note you can&#39;t use the springs with this model. There are still slots in the side but that&#39;s just to there isn&#39;t so much surface area to run/contact when you put the spindle over the stock spindle.&nbsp;There are two smaller tapers as well. All tapers, nuts, and spacers work interchangeably so I recommend you print out a couple of this or that and figure out what works best for you. Note: these new versions are called “V3 Diana Edition” as stamped on the parts.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-11_44c0c77c4748a.png"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:73.98%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-02-11_41d45e52b1d2e.png"></figure>&nbsp;04/22/2024 Update: Picture showing how the taper can be used to center 250g rolls of filament. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000177824/design/2024-04-22_74726d9b8fe36.png">

AMS Lite Universal Spindle

ams_lite

Alkerion

This part will replace the original rubber part on your AMS front rollers.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/f6749349-d236-4bad-bd16-f3c6b045a2ab.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Having wider roller will make your spools turn faster, improving load/unload time, and also reduce a lot the filament respooling rewind failures.Silicone tube also improve the friction between roller and spools.&nbsp;I&#39;ve used silicone tube of 10/14 (ID/OD), you must ensure they are soft like rubber to provide a good grip with spools.These should be fine :&nbsp;https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08PP6ZR64https://www.amazon.fr/sourcing-map-Caoutchouc-Hautement-Elastique/dp/B09X15S148&nbsp;Version 2 : Now in two parts, the center and two different sides depending if you have original AMS or Hydra Pro mod.This V2 has now a small rind on the sides to prevent tube to move and prevent the rollers to turn freely.&nbsp;Printed in PLA with 0.4 nozzle, 0.16 layer height and 0.4 line width.&nbsp;Instructions :This mod require the removal of the original rubber :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/3b927881-9075-44c9-9390-bef1d3cc2b11.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Once removed, clean the roller (remove the glue residues as much as possible) :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/7e411b2d-7804-4cc0-9042-c06228fd5529.webp"></figure>&nbsp;And insert the new CENTER part (no glue required) :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/df93ed55-6f1d-420b-aa95-7ad6243bf306.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Then glue (two small spots are far enough) the sides :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/95c54b73-ccf9-466a-bba7-f2229081ac39.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Insert the silicone tube :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/23a2f20a-fa6b-4fe2-89a5-6e507260a9af.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Cut the tube :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/e1ff495a-451d-40e0-b0d9-6e34bc044fbd.webp"></figure>&nbsp;Install inside the AMS and ENJOY !<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 75%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452104/design/b7ceec58-16dc-4b5b-8209-80341f675343.webp"></figure>&nbsp;

Bambu Lab AMS Ultimate Front Rollers

DKprints

Recycle your AMS waste and turn it into insulation! This enclosure designed specifically for the A1 Mini WITH AMS insulates the printer from outside elements leading to less warping and variability in temperature. This uses a ton of purged filament and support material as insulation in modular sections that can be stacked higher or lower depending on the height or setup of your printer. The files included are specific to the A1 Mini, but can be scaled to fit your printer if need be. Most of the pieces slot together with the exception of the front door and lid, which need to be glued and include holes for aligning utilizing short filament sections as pins. All parts can be printed on the A1 Mini, but to save time, if you have multiple printers, I&#39;ve included X1C/A1/P1 series files as well. The stock PTFE tubing is a bit too short, so it will need to be extended in order to use this enclosure. Note that it is NOT manufacturer recommended to enclose the A1 series printers. &nbsp;You&#39;ll Need:¼ or 6mm Wooden Dowel Rod/Threaded Rod/Solid Rod cut to around 17.5in or 444mm - I used <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/cCsl0Qw)" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/cCsl0Qw</a>11x14 Acrylic Sheet - I used a cheap picture frame and then took out the pre-cut acrylic <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/fW9RtZk)" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/fW9RtZk</a>PTFE Tubing - <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/dQ6dqUf" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/dQ6dqUf</a>Super Glue2mm or 5/64in Drill bit (optional) - <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/hxv6ECD" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/hxv6ECD</a>&nbsp;To Assemble: <ol><li>Slot straight wall piece with large passthrough hole for wall plug into both corner pieces. Then slot straight wall piece with small passthrough for AMS on the right of the machine. Slot straight wall piece into other side and then the two semi-circle corners onto the ends of the two straight pieces. </li><li>Connect the two small support pieces together by aligning both dovetail joints together and then slot on to the ends of the semi-circle pieces. </li><li>You&#39;ve now completed the first row of the enclosure and have a square surrounding your printer!</li><li>Now it&#39;s time to get rid of your filament waste and fill each wall section. </li><li>Repeat for both remaing rows with more wall sections. Note that there shouldn&#39;t be any walls with hole passthroughs on the top two rows. </li><li>Once the enclosure is three rows high, slot in hinge pieces taking note to make sure the hinge pattern is alternating and the smallest of the hinge pieces is at the bottom with the smallest gap at the bottom as one of the hinge sections is shorter than the rest. </li><li>Slot in the door stop pieces with the larger side on the inside of the enclosure. This is what the door rests against when closed. </li><li>Glue together door pieces taking caution to make sure all the pieces are flush and door handle is pointed outward. </li><li>Glue in acrylic window and install door using dowel rods through the hinges.</li><li>Assemble the top using optional filament pin holes. Some of the holes will need to be drilled out with the small drill bit and then small sections of filament can be used to align the two sides together before gluing. The dovetail joint pieces can then be glued as well. </li><li>Set the top onto the walls making sure the blank underside is over the door.</li><li>Extend the PTFE tubing to AMS as the factory included tubing is a bit too short. </li></ol>

Insulated A1 Mini Enclosure

enclosures

prevents the cable on the A1mini from kinking&nbsp;verhindert das Abknicken des Kabels am A1mini

A1mini cable routing, cable guide, V1

organization

ingamgam

Multi purpose drying box, the box is not large. I hope it will be useful to you!Tip: After closing the lid, it is difficult to open.A pry hole has been set up at the checkpoint position, making it easier to pry open with a screwdriver.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000433604/design/2024-04-18_654e8c5abcbdc.png"></figure>&nbsp;