toomas

AMT_MW

<h2>What it is</h2><p>Small soldering jigs for LED strips that allow to cut and fix the then stripped cables in place. With a dab of hotglue or some heat-shrink tubing they may even stay in place to secure the finished connection.</p><p>Available are:</p><figure class="table" style="width:84.47%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col><col><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><strong>5mm LED strip</strong></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><strong>8mm LED strip</strong></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><strong>10mm LED strip</strong></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><strong>12mm LED strip</strong></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><p><strong>2-pin</strong></p><ul><li>2.4mm</li><li>100thou</li><li>133thou (=3.38mm)</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><p><strong>2-pin</strong></p><ul><li>100thou</li><li>150thou</li><li>4mm</li><li>200thou</li><li>250thou</li></ul><p><strong>3-pin</strong></p><ul><li>2mm</li><li>100thou</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><p><strong>2-pin</strong></p><ul><li>200thou</li><li>250thou</li></ul><p><strong>3-pin</strong></p><ul><li>100thou</li><li>3mm</li><li>4mm</li></ul><p><strong>4-pin</strong></p><ul><li>100thou</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><p><strong>2-pin</strong></p><ul><li>350thou</li><li>400thou</li></ul><p><strong>3-pin</strong></p><ul><li>150thou</li><li>175thou</li><li>4mm</li><li>200thou</li></ul><p><strong>5-pin</strong></p><ul><li>100thou</li></ul><p><strong>6-pin</strong></p><ul><li>2mm</li></ul></td><td style="height:80px;width:160px;"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/723103/2024-02-25_3f94f3f0071c7.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h2>How to print</h2><p>Recommended for printing is a layer height of <strong>0.20mm</strong> or smaller and a <strong>0.4mm nozzle</strong>. The provided printing files feature modifiers for optional color changes. Since the clips are small they are prone to first layer issues, this design really benefits from printing it as KitCard. → Such printing profiles are provided as well.</p><h2>How to use</h2><p><strong>Soldering wires to LED strips</strong></p><ul><li>Put the cable in place first and cut the wires according to the line given by the jig</li><li>Strip the cables (<i>or rely on melting the isolation later on while soldering</i>)<ul><li><i>optional: place heat-shrink tubing</i></li></ul></li><li>Place the LED strip in place<ul><li><i>optional: secure it with the clips</i></li></ul></li><li>Place the cable in place<ul><li><i>optional: secure it with the clips</i></li></ul></li><li>Solder</li></ul><p>I tend to use the optional clips if a LED strip or cable is somewhat wayward, otherwise they are not needed.<br>In case you want to fix a weather proof LED strip where the printed clips do not work, a clothespin, binder clip, … , cable tie <i>(reusable?)</i> works as well.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Soldering connectors to LED strips </strong><i>(tested with Molex KK 254 and JST-XH 2.54)</i></p><ul><li>Clip the LED strip onto the upper part that houses the cable channels<ul><li><i>optional: place heat-shrink tubing before</i></li></ul></li><li>Place a connector onto the lower part with its pins facing the strips solder pads<ul><li><i>optional: one clip as endstop or rubber band/clothespin/binder clip/… to hold the connector</i></li></ul></li><li>Solder</li></ul><h3><strong>What next</strong></h3><p>There may be improvements and modifications based on feedback given here.</p><p>Expanding the variety of variants is partially triggered by request, provided the required dimensions are specified.<br>Maybe, take a look at <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/u/2797532051" rel="nofollow noopener">my other designs</a> ;-)</p>

LED strip Soldering jigs

PaulBB

<h4><i>Update 6th May 2023:</i></h4><p>Thanks for the great feedback everyone that downloaded and made this model! I finally had time to make a new version. I've added a few things to the model:</p><ul><li>A stopper that stops the drawer from beign pulled out completely. Designed in a way that you do not need any supports or extra prints.</li><li>Made the whole drawer about 2 perimeters thicker (0.8mm) (except the bottom). It is way sturdier that way. This was also needed to keep the stopper machanism working. Otherwise the whole drawer bent too much when pulling it all the way out.</li><li>Added an alternative version without the handle, but with just a hole to install your own (maybe 3D printed) handle yourself.  The hole has a diameter of 4.2mm to install handles with a M4 screw.</li><li>Added a middle piece to join multiple drawers together</li><li>Added versions without the grid in the bottom.</li></ul><p>I am also currently working on some inserts which I will upload in a few days. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Under Desk Drawer</h2><p>This model is designed to fit underneath your desk, providing easy access to your pens, papers, notebooks, and other essentials. Features a smooth sliding mechanism to ensure that your items stay secure and within reach. Plus, it's easy to install with the three mounting holes on each side. (I installed it with two on each side which works just fine.)</p><p>The size of the bottom plane is approximately 166mm (width) x 176mm (depth) x 30mm (height).</p><p>The slides are just mirrored versions of each other.</p><p>Supports only needed for the drawer handle.</p><p>Fits a 200mm x 200mm print bed.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Installation</h2><p>This is the way that worked best for me, there may be better ways to install the drawer. Feel free to comment if you find a easier way :)</p><ul><li>Mount the slide that you plan to use as the outer-most first. Install one screw, align the slide perpenticular to the desk and install the second screw for the first slide. </li><li>Take the drawer and hold it a against the slide. Take the next slide and press it against the drawer where it should be. Install the back screw first and then the second one.</li><li>Repeat for each middle slide you plan to use. The middle slide has the same dimensions as a regular slide, so you can reuse the holes if you want to make it bigger later.</li></ul><p>Use two 3mm Screws per slide to mount the drawer to your desk. <strong>Be careful to not overtighten the screws as it may break the mounting holes depending on your material/print settings</strong>! </p>

Under Desk Drawer

ideed

nikola

<h3>Pixel Board</h3><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_lon3dtlzddwb.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Changes:</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>2023-10-15: Fixed the case which had incosistent edge.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>___</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>PixelBoard is, as the name implies, a board that you can put 3D printed small squares aka “pixels” in and use it as a decorative piece, the board is 24 pixels wide and 12 pixels tall. The compact overall design fits on pretty much every printer, including Prusa Mini. If you're wondering what kind of designs can be made with pixels and a board of this size, scroll down to the bottom for some design examples.</p><p>I recently found a similar model to this, and I noticed it had a few design flaws - but due to its licensing which didn't allow any modifications (remixes), I couldn't make any improvements to it - so I made an entirely new project from scratch over the weekend, and you can remix, share, and adapt it in any way you want - STEP files are included as well!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Since it's literally designed over the weekend and not used over a longer period, if you have any improvement suggestions, feel free to make a remix or to comment.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>It's designed from the ground up for FDM printing, no supports, or anything similar required. It makes (optional, but recommended) use of 6x3mm magnets to hold the board firmly in the case, and the case itself doubles as a storage - and can hold more than 4 times the number of pixels required to fill the entire board, all in 4 different compartments, so you don't have to search through piles of different pixels to find the color you want.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I have printed all the files on my X1C using generic 0.2mm settings with different filaments I had lying around, but please before you print everything at once, see below for print instructions and fit test models.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Required materials:</h3><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Optional: four 6x3mm magnets. These will hold the board extremely well in place, so much so that I had to design a push pin to push the board from the back, this is ideal since the box doubles as storage, and you don't want to have 1000+ pins accidentally drop on the floor.</li><li>3D Printer with at least 165mm bed size width - Prusa Mini can fit and print this.</li></ul><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4>Parts and print settings</h4><h4> </h4><h4>Board</h4><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_79e71rpcqru4.jpg"></figure><h4> </h4><p>The board is printed using default settings of 0.2mm or lower, but there is no significant benefit of printing lower than 0.2. It requires no additional settings or anything else. Just make sure you're printing this with a dry filament to avoid any stringing which may lead to pixels not fitting quite well afterward.</p><h4>Pins</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_fx9bx521pug5.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The Pins are all 5x5mm for the cube part, as the tolerances for this are built into the board directly, but the diameter of the cylinder part may vary from printer to printer, and based on what kind of fit you want. I've included the pins with the cylinder at the following diameters: 5.00mm, 4.98mm, 4.96mm, 4.94mm, 4.92mm, and 4.90mm. They all have the size in their name Pin500 is Pin with a diameter of 5.00mm, Pin492 with diameter of 4.92mm, and so on.</p><p>You need 288 pins to fill the whole board, I've included files with 298 pins to have some spare. If your printer bed adhesion isn't that reliable, I'd recommend printing in smaller batches instead of everything at once.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>You can print these in 0.2mm layer heights as well. No brim is required, and if you use it then it might be difficult to remove afterward.</p><p>So, how do you know which pin size to print?</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h4>Fit Test Files</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_jjvpqn24uwh2.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I've included a small 3x3 test board, print this, and all different pins and see which one fits best. If none of the pins fit, then you can, of course, use the scale feature of the slicer to adjust it, or modify the step files, but it means that your printer isn't quite accurate enough and this may lead to other issues as well. Use the same filament and same settings that you will use later on.</p><p>For me personally, Pin498 fits the best.</p><h4>Case</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_qendaq3orl0u.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The case requires no supports and is designed to be printed this way. You can use any layer height that you want. 0.2 layer height produces nice results, and especially with some sanding, can be pretty. There are no major structural demands here, other than the magnets that are held in place. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_fwumhu5dey4w.png"></figure><p>Magnets/PushPin</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_7tw888ogds6s.jpg"></figure><p>If you decide to use magnets, you can put them in the side of the case, as well as the board, so they hold when the board is in place. There should be enough clearance to do a simple press fit for the magnets, bit if they keep falling out just add a drop of superglue.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>However, these magnets can be pretty strong, and getting the board out - when it's full of pins, can be very difficult, so I've designed a pin that goes from the front of the case to the back - <strong>make sure to put this in BEFORE you put the board in.</strong> The pins are pretty small, only 5 mm and barely noticeable, due to the small size, you'll need something to push them in from the back. If you don't want to deal with that, and you don't mind compromising on the design, there's also a long push pin version, this will stick out on the back 20mm and allow you to push it with your finger easily. Print both and try it out.</p><p>The pins can be printed either way, and you don't need infill for them - 2 or 3 walls should do the trick.</p><p>I printed mine in this orientation, so I get a smoother back-side finish. But this is up to you and how well your bed adhesion is. You can use brim on this to ensure it prints properly.</p><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_wfahmznx9v0y.png"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Assembly</h3><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The assembly is pretty straightforward:</p><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Put the push pin in the case so you don't forget it.</li><li>Add magnets to the case and the board - make sure to orient them correctly</li><li>Done</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Design examples</h3><p>Besides the example image above, there are numerous designs that fit on a 24x12 board, here are some examples - and often you can even fit two of these on the board, or scale them down/up as you wish, as they don't use the entire space by themselves</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_kfdej6cryrvf.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_skdiiybul83w.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_pmm1qbz5sn0m.png"></figure><p>These screenshots come from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.brik.co/pages/gallery-search?q.size.height.min&q.size.height.max=12&q.size.width.max=24&q.size.width.min" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.brik.co/pages/gallery-search?q.size.height.min&q.size.height.max=12&q.size.width.max=24&q.size.width.min</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p>

led

ideed

mattule