tobi93w

Rocco's Stuff

This is a model I designed to showcase the locking mechanism inside a bank vault door. Check out my Youtube video for more info and full assembly instructions.<div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85pmrLiTC_Y"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/85pmrLiTC_Y" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div> </div>

Bank Vault Combination Lock - Group 2 Vault Lock

Stag 3D

<h2>The Card Caddy!</h2>Simply place your playing cards between the front and rear sections&nbsp;The Card Caddy allows young children to hold a hand of cards. It's also great for the elderly or people suffering with conditions that make it difficult to hold a hand of cards.<ul><li>Sized to allow it to fit conveniently into a card holder</li><li>Quick easy print!</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3>Step 1: Remove the support material from the recessStep 2: Apply glue into the recess and then fix the rear piece into place as shown below&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/397958/2024-01-01_e16e225cc5733.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Card Caddy

Änne 

humebeam

Update January 11, 2022&nbsp;Thanks for the feedback so far, great to see so many makes! I've optimized the bottom thickness to save some material and it will also print faster.&nbsp;I've also uploaded new versions that are only half as tall for an even quicker print (these are named “quickprint”), the same how-to below applies.&nbsp;Support&nbsp;All my designs and mods on Printables are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering</a></li></ul>About&nbsp;One of the most important things for good quality prints is to get the flowrate / extrusion multiplier correct for your filament. Good news is that it's easy to dial in.&nbsp;How-To, 0.40 mm nozzle&nbsp;For example, using a 0.40 mm nozzle, set the line width to exactly 0.40 mm in your slicer and print this calibration cube which has 0.80 mm walls. After you have printed it, measure the thickness of all four walls with a caliper and take a note of the widths. For example, let's say these are the widths of the walls measured:&nbsp;0.81, 0.82, 0.83, 0.83&nbsp;Then the formula to calculate the flow rate is:&nbsp;0.80 / ((0.81 + 0.82 + 0.83 + 0.83) / 4) ≈ 0.97&nbsp;So, the flowrate or extrusion multiplier is about 97% or 0.97 which you then set in your slicer. If you started with a different flow value than 100 % or 1.0 you multiply this with your new calculated flow multiplier. &nbsp;Print the cube again to confirm. The measured walls should now be very close to 0.80 mm thick.&nbsp;What about other nozzle size?&nbsp;The formula is the same for the other nozzle sizes. Set the line width to be exactly the same as your nozzle size then print that specific flow calibration cube. Then measure all walls with a caliper. &nbsp;Here's the formula to calculate the flow rate:&nbsp;(Nozzle size* 2) / ((Wall 1 width + Wall 2 width + Wall 3 width + Wall 4 width) / 4)&nbsp;Notes: &nbsp;The method is not completely accurate as each slicer deals with wall widths and flow a little differently. It's a good tool to get a quick indication though.

Flow Calibration Cube

Filament 

jocin_

Addition 14.06.2024I found  the G-Code adaption which <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@AdamL" rel="nofollow noopener">AdamL</a> introduced with his model: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/467118#profileId-378814" rel="nofollow noopener">The Scrubbler: Enhanced X1/P1 Nozzle Wiper</a> very cool and a awesome idea, thanks for sharing this idea. I took inspiration from this and implemented my own version in the Change filament G-Code. Also I adapted AdamL ´s code for the Machine start G-Code so that the travel path is lower and fits my design better. During testing I mentioned that lower acceleration of about 15000 had a better cleaning effect. But could be that this is specific for my X1C.If you want to implement this i uploaded a instruction “240614_nozzle_rub_G-Code_adaption.pdf”, you find it under: “Documentation”.&nbsp;This is what it looks like:<ul><li>Machine start G-Code <img class="image_resized" style="width: 43.78%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_5952291fb477b.gif">  </li><li>Change filament G-Code <img class="image_resized" style="width: 43.85%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_4d3b92720c696.gif"></li></ul>&nbsp;Have fun!_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Update 08.01.2024Quick update on the tray for both brushes. Added a small plug to the bottom of the tray to prevent it from rotating because there where some issues reported with that.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-01-08_90b8ac2f999d08.jpg">New raw model files:<ul><li>A1-Brush:<ul><li>Nozzle_wiper_x1c_with_a1_brush v3.step</li><li>tray_A1_v3.stl</li></ul></li><li>A1-mini-Brush:<ul><li>Nozzle_wiper_x1c_with_a1-mini_brush_v2.step</li><li>tray_A1-mini_v2.stl</li></ul></li></ul>Updated all my print profiles with a second plate which contains the new version.&nbsp;If want to use your own print profiles, use arachne wall generator and orientate the Tray like this:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-01-08_a51cb51bab44c8.jpg">&nbsp;This compromises the print ability of the tray and supports are needed, use paint on supports like this:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-01-08_595ac1760a20b8.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-01-08_8c081c3a42f8f.jpg">Support setting:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-01-08_f5ff07781ab9.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-01-08_be0bf17e5065d.jpg">!Be care full to not hurt yourself when removing the supports in the tray, use pliers or a small slotted screwdriver!&nbsp;Thank´s to all for the feedback____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Update 04.01.2024New A1 brush version, with following changes:<ul><li>Chamfer on the tray  </li><li>Lowered height of the block 0,5 mm</li></ul>Thanks <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@coreyward" rel="nofollow noopener">@coreyward</a> for the suggestions&nbsp;Addition for print settings:If want to use your own print profiles use the arachne wall generator to get a support for the overhang on the block.<img class="image_resized" style="width: 30.29%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/163521ea-447a-44a5-a9cb-dd1d5dfe496e.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_3a22e0a17d5b7.png">&nbsp;________________________________________________________________________________________________________________&nbsp;Update 26.12.2023On request I adapted the design to fit the A1 brush. Under “Raw model files” there are now two folders, use the parts in the “A1-Brush” folder if you want to use the A1 brush. Both parts are needed to use the A1 brush.Just import the parts in one of the existing print profiles, orientate them the same way and print;-)!Attention! with the A1 brush there is very little clearance between the tray and the build plate, so make sure to align the build plate properly.<img class="image_resized" style="width: 38.16%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_ccf6556620e57.jpg">&nbsp;Thanks @<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2924277124" rel="nofollow noopener">GE_AMX</a> and @<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2038862755" rel="nofollow noopener">kevman</a> for testing_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________Update 20.12.2023I used the A1-Mini brush, as it is different to the A1 i:<ul><li>corrected the link</li><li>corrected the description</li></ul>Thanks <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@schiko" rel="nofollow noopener">@schiko</a> for pointing that out on printables.com_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________I liked the nozzle brush of the A1-Mini, so i designed two parts to use it on my X1C along with the original wiper.Needed parts:<ul><li>for mounting use the original screw for the nozzle wiper, 3 of them are needed</li><li>A1-Mini nozzle brush <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/heatbed-nozzle-wiper-a1-mini?skr=yes" rel="nofollow noopener">https://store.bambulab.com/products/heatbed-nozzle-wiper-a1-mini?skr=yes</a>  </li><li>some double-sided adhesive tape <img class="image_resized" style="width: 52.08%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_1a14497a8d7958.jpg"></li></ul>Mounting:<ol><li>Mount the original nozzle wiper on the block <img class="image_resized" style="width: 40.83%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_72222ec740b41.jpg"></li><li>Mount the block to the poop chute <img class="image_resized" style="width: 44.99%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_aa9d2448f7399.jpg"></li><li>Cute the A1-Mini nozzle brush to 10 mm length put some double-sided adhesive tape to the bottom and put it in the tray <img class="image_resized" style="width: 19.76%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_06cde2db1acfe.jpg"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 22.2%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_1d57b502adf3a.jpg"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 28.98%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_8eab04be6eec8.jpg"></li><li>Mount the tray on top of the block <img class="image_resized" style="width: 47.42%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000094607/design/2024-06-14_dd9145e102d4b.jpg"></li></ol>Filament: extrudr greentec pro (or ABS, ASA, PETG etc.)Print settings:<ul><li>orientation: see picture and attached 3mf</li><li>layer height: 0.12</li><li>wall generator: arachne (edit 04.01.2024)</li><li>wall loops: 3</li><li>Top/bottom layers: 6</li><li>infill: 10% gyorid</li><li>support: no</li><li>brim: no</li></ul>

Bambu Lab X1/P1 nozzle wiper with A1 Brush

wiper 

SpectreGadget

FYI, I have created several other versions.  Print the R4 profile for the new AMS<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/30631#profileId-112717" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Glass Separation LED Riser for COB LEDs</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190027#profileId-209722" rel="nofollow noopener">Glass Separation LED Riser (no AMS)</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190665#profileId-210450" rel="nofollow noopener">Glass Separation LED RIser for COB LEDs (no AMS)</a></li></ul>&nbsp;*** UPDATE 6/25/24 - I&#39;ve recently ordered and received a new NEON-type LED strip that can replace the original I had used.  This one comes with an optional inline switch with remote capability, which is a nice addition.  Without that, it is quite bright.  You can find it on Amazon at <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CVW36X26" rel="nofollow noopener">B0CVW36X26</a>.   It&#39;s a ‘snug’ fit with the R4 profile, so will likely not work with the original “0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill” profile.&nbsp;*** UPDATE 12/18/23 - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/14025#profileId-104675" rel="nofollow noopener">R4 profile</a> now live with these updates:<ul><li>Supports NEW AMS design and should support all AMS designs</li><li>Wider channel for NEON LED strips since the newer ones are a bit wider. Narrower strips may need 3M tape to secure</li><li>Slightly decreased bottom perimeter improve fit for some filaments/settings that may cause some &#39;elephant foot&#39; at the base</li><li>Added small lip at front to keep glass in place for more energetic printer movement</li><li>Increased gap between parts by 0.05mm to make assembly easier for some materials that are less exacting</li><li>Added numbers on the bottom to help with aligning for assembly</li><li>Added Holder Clips to the R4 profile, four on each of the two plates. Brim is enabled for the clips.</li></ul>I originally started to make a riser with vents for when I print PLA, but decided to go a different route. I wanted to meet these requirements:<ul><li>Move the AMS off the top glass</li><li>Be able to vent the top, but keep the glass with the printer</li><li>Easily remove the glass to get into the printer, without moving the AMS</li><li>Add additional LED lights in the form of “neon” type LED strip</li><li>Keep as minimal / minimalistic as possible, with a low profile and not take a lot of filament, &lt;500g</li><li>Keep it all together, avoiding wall mounting or sitting to the side</li><li>No supports required</li></ul>This riser has a second shelf above to hold the glass top, allowing venting, but keeping the top with the printer.The gap between the parts is 0.1mm for the original profile so it&#39;s meant to be a tight fit that stays together. The R4 profile has slightly larger gaps at 0.15mm.&nbsp;If you only print PLA, then printing in PLA will be ok. Best to print in either PETG, ASA, or ABS, especially if your chamber temps get to 50+ as then you are getting close to the glass transition temp of PLA and could cause problems.&nbsp;“Holder Clip.stl” is a clip that can be used to hold the LED power cord along the back before exiting the riser. “Holder Clip.3mf” has 6 of them.&nbsp;The original light strip I used was the vimeepro 5V USB LED Neon Lights Strip 3.3ft neon Rope Lights Flexible Waterproof Neon LED Strip from Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB724ZS9" rel="nofollow noopener">B0BB724ZS9</a>. I like these lights as they provide good additional light without washing things out. If those are not available, you could use the 6&#39; one and cut it short as needed. <a target="_blank" href="https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0B73VGSCL" rel="nofollow noopener">B0B73VGSCL</a>. Availability of these seems to go in and out of stock. I would think that similar “NEON”-type LED strips should work. Another option provided by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@moebis" rel="nofollow noopener">@moebis</a> is <a target="_blank" href="https://share.temu.com/u5L2QMYplFA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://share.temu.com/u5L2QMYplFA</a>&nbsp;

AMS Glass Separation LED RIser

Deckel 

FunkyArt

The integrated heater bleed key and a collection container makes bleeding your heaters super easy.&nbsp;No support needed.&nbsp;Note: If your wrench-key is to tight for your heater, you can find a slightly larger one in the download section. &nbsp;Please remember that you are printing plastic here, the outer and inner dimensions specify the exact material thickness. For me it works with PLA printed keys without any problems on every heater, if it breaks, then you can try it with stronger materials like PLA+, PETG; PLA-CF or try the new Bitholder version. To be absolutely sure, combine the container with a metal key. Good luck :) &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;You can see the difference between the two key versions here: <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.17%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164251/2023-10-21_4e4a32873fa488.jpg"><figcaption>Standard key 5,0-5,1mm</figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50.03%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164251/2023-10-21_ef63e0c198c208.jpg"><figcaption>Slightly bigger 5.2mm</figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.31%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164251/2023-11-11_7f36d65718b558.jpg"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.06%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164251/2023-11-11_15e8bb3164e59.jpg"><figcaption>Testversion: Bitholder (Red one) Try this if others dont work.</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;

Heater bleeder (Entluefter)

Misc 

ANIMAL MODS

I wasn&#39;t happy with slinging the tool head cover over the top rod - leaving it in a precarious position / stressing out the cable during maintenance.Here is a simple hanger which loosely rests over the top rod and fits into one of the cover&#39;s triangle openings with a slot to keep it in place.Safely stows the tool head cover and frees up your hands so you can get business done.No supports needed for print.&nbsp;The updated design with a deeper slot per user request was uploaded but for some reason makerspace is not updating the link.Download the .stl if you are having issues accessing the latest version.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

P1P / P1S Tool Head Cover Hanger

Hot End 

Reefer

I find that the poop catchers are all fantastic, but somehow too static. I thought about how to change that and this is the result. You can put the exhaust on both sides of the Bambu lab printer. Or wherever you feel like. You can choose the ejection direction yourself. Whether to the left, right, or rear, does not matter. Only upwards makes no sense, unless you connect a vacuum cleaner :-) It works amazingly well (at least for me) and takes little space. You can customize the length and you can also put it on or in a box. The external filament roll also still has enough space. I printed it with PETG because it's only 2 layers wide and I wanted flexibility so it wouldn't break when you put it together. It is important to position the opening of the catcher and holder well at the exit of the printer. I used double-sided tape, but the best tape is special mirror tape (I don't know the correct name for this tape, but it is used to stick mirrors to the wall).You will need a raft or brim when printing the segment and the catcher. Print it like on the 3d picture. The idea is not yet finished, so I make it available to the community with step files to play. Maybe there will be more ideas. Especially the holder seems to me to have potential for improvement. I wish all who deal with it a lot of fun and I'm happy about every make.

Poop Chute Pipe

poop

Xor-3dpr

I created a funnel for the excellent "BamBu AMS Silica Gel Box" (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16260#profileId-15420" rel="nofollow noopener">BamBu AMS Silica Gel Box by chameko - MakerWorld</a>). With the funnel it will be easier to add Silica