tellus1019

Prestige Prototype

Introducing the Invisible Airtag Bike Seat Case:Elevate your bike security with our discreet Airtag Bike Seat Case – a fusion of functionality and minimalism. Crafted for seamless integration, this case is designed to be nearly invisible, providing a sleek and subtle solution for attaching your Airtag to your bike seat. &nbsp;Enjoy the added benefit of hearing the Airtag's sound when you ring it for easy locating.&nbsp;Versatility is key – our case accommodates different bike seat models through the inclusion of foam spacers, ensuring a snug fit tailored to your specific needs. Assembly is a breeze with 8x M3 brass inserts and 8x M3-10mm screws, guaranteeing a sturdy and reliable attachment.&nbsp;Upgrade your bike tracking experience with this thoughtfully designed case that seamlessly combines form and function. Safeguard your ride with style and subtlety, and never lose track of your bike again.

AIRTAG - Hidden Bike saddle Mount

Bicycle

dp makes

A pan flute, also known as panpipes or syrinx, is a musical instrument that works on the principle of the closed tube. It consists of multiple pipes that gradually increase in length (and sometimes girth) from one end to the other. Pan flutes have been popular as folk instruments for centuries, with various varieties found in cultures around the world.&nbsp;I think my idea of creating a "Whistle Pan flute" by connecting whistles of different lengths in a line is an interesting and creative one. While it may not be a completely unique idea, it certainly has the potential to produce a unique and fun sound. By carefully selecting and aligning the whistles, it may be possible to achieve a greater range of notes than a traditional pan flute. It would be exciting to see how different materials and shapes of whistles could be used to create even more variations in sound.&nbsp;This model is in progress and I will continue to tune until I have a model that gives a great Whistling Flute sound.&nbsp;•Print settings•&nbsp;Supports: No Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 15%&nbsp;<h4>Important notice:</h4>This design is free for the benefit of the community, but If you like my designs and want to contribute, you can make a donation to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/DPalacionis" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal, </a>that will be greatly appreciated.

Whistle Pan flute

Toys

Jorge Rui

<blockquote>This design is free for the benefit of the community, but If you like my designs and want to contribute, you can make a donation to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/designrepcom" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee </a>or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=BUM67EMDJRXSN&amp;no_recurring=0&amp;currency_code=EUR" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal, </a>that will be greatly appreciated.&nbsp;For a small help use this affiliate link to buy fillament, it will cost you the same. Thanks !<a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2354730&amp;u=4026304&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">Filaments used on this project</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpox" rel="nofollow noopener">Complete hotend for the X series</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpoy" rel="nofollow noopener">Hotend with nozzle X series</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cpov" rel="nofollow noopener">Other Accessories</a>&nbsp;</blockquote><h2>A note about this model</h2>There is a nes and updated version of this, with a modular approach, based on my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/13415?profileId=13268" rel="nofollow noopener">MMSS</a>, and is available <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@jorge_rui" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_37429ce72890f.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_b69a4d08ab4d8.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_8fb4405968195.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_de4c9a7b9700e.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_97413a6c36b6a.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000012950/design/2023-09-07_b12c00384f143.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Nevertheless, this one was my first take on this, and I think it’s nice for you to have something to store your tools and accessories ;)&nbsp;This is a debugged version of the initial release. It presents all the updates and some improvements that have been implemented in the meantime. This version will be updated over time.The entire production sequence was updated in order to translate the comments that were made over time by members. However, you are free to define your own printing strategy. The colored areas are already found as separate objects, therefore it is not necessary to use the painting tool, an exception for the areas where the accessories come reside; in this situation, I chose not to create different bodies, as it is my opinion it would take too long to print, increasing the potential for errors. In this last situation, and if you want, you can simply use the “area painting tool”.<h2>Instructions</h2>ClipsSome examples regarding fits and snapfits. <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/TNyjlRgM0HY" rel="nofollow noopener">(youtube link)</a>&nbsp;Extra material:<ul><li>For the hinges, you will need 2x M4x30 CHC ISO 4762, or a FHC of the same size. If you don&#39;t have that you can print.</li><li>You may want the scrape… you can find it <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/531116-small-scraper-tool" rel="nofollow noopener">here, it is a model that I&#39;ve Remixed</a></li><li>spacer_ silicon_sock.STEP - needed if you have a narrow silicon sock on the hotend (most people will need this)</li></ul><h3>Change Log:</h3><ul><li>(31-08-2023) Revised Latch - More functional<ul><li>Optimizations and various dimensional compensations.</li><li>New 3mf file, which I hope will make the printing process simpler and with a higher success rate.</li></ul></li><li>(29-04-2024) Revised Latch - More functional <ul><li>Optimizations and various dimensional compensations.</li><li>New 3mf file, which I hope will make the printing process simpler and with a higher success rate.</li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;

Bambu Lab - Tools and Accessories Box

Tools

Neebick

Update: I have added a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/146363#profileId-159384" rel="nofollow noopener">scabbard</a> that is designed for this Master Sword.&nbsp;This one was a fun project to see if I could make a master sword that would could be all encompassing for its appearances in Tears of the Kingdom. The party trick being that the center jewel acts as a locking peg for which ever blade is inserted. It's modeled with a tight tolerance so that it will friction fit in. Just press the center of the jewel and the peg will slide out. This allows the blade to be removed. My idea was that this would be more convenient then printing and finishing 3 different hilts for each blade. Storage should be easier as well. Plus its just cool.&nbsp;Glue and supports will be necessary for some parts.&nbsp;I have kept tolerances tight on some parts to help with friction fitting. I've found the blades need a couple insertions before it becomes easier. I figured this was better then a wobbly blade.&nbsp;<h3>Parts</h3><ul><li>Blades - Each blade is designed to be printed upright on the plate. You will need 2 center portions to make a full length blade. I have included pegs which should be glued to join all the sections. I suggest thick walls. I print with 5 walls for good measure. Really helps with flex. Use supports for the peg holes. On the restored blade, I did not include a tip since it is the same as the original blade.</li><li>Cross guard - I have sliced this 2 ways: Sideways for more vertical printing. Excellent cooling is a must. I had very slight sagging towards the top of mine due to the sharp angles of the tips. Or sliced in half for a wider print but easier details if bed adhesion and warping isn't an issue. Supports are a must for both. Focus on the interior portions and tips.</li><li>Grip - Simple part. Print with flared portion on the plate. Make sure to glue it with the cutout portion facing forward. Important for the wrap to be aligned with the cross guard.</li><li>Wrap - This is was a trickier part for me since it kept coming loose from the bed. It doesn't have a very wide base so bed adhesion is critical. Supports and brims help. Has a built in peg to lock it into the proper orientation.</li><li>Jewels and Blade surrounds - Super easy print. Glue peg into jewel with inset on the back. Glue surrounds on cross guard.</li><li>Pommel - Two parts for nicer printing. Use grip to help align while gluing halves together. Can remain removable with future upgrades...</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Video Demonstration</h3><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtKNojgwpLE"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AtKNojgwpLE" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Bicycle

Toys

Tools

Legend of Zelda