szundi

maCyo42

It&#39;s done!!! All Parts printed and assembled! I started the Riser V2 early December and changed the last Parts yesterday. There&#39;s a lot of work in this design, so many small and big changes. Today i will start to Release the first completed picture of the Riser V2 and the Profiles of the Mainbodies. As you later can see i&#39;ve seperated some Parts so that you can play around with Step Files for your own Design Fronts.&nbsp;<h2>Should I print the Riser V1 or V2? Here are the differences.</h2><ol><li>There are 2 Versions of the V1. The Standard is for 8mm Lightstrips and the 12mm Edition for 12mm Lightstrip and additionaly you can fix the Lightstrip with Cable ties. V2 combines the Features of both V1 Riser in this Case. I received a lot questions: Will 12mm Lightstrips fit? It can but that is not sure. It not depends only on the width. The stiffness is one big issue for the curves. Try it i cannot guarantee! There are different lightstrips on the market.</li><li>V2 is tuned more for function than design. There are additionaly Connectors for Accessories like Tools.</li><li>Early December i began to work on V2. My intention was the big change in the Anti Glare Feature and the Connectors. But meanwhile there where some critics on the V1. Some Makers reported a bad fitting of their Top Glas. To much loose in the Spoolholder fitting and so on. So the logical consequence was to rework many things on V2.</li><li>The Modders. I had so many Mails and Msg… can you please add Hexagons insted of Holes and so on. Because of this i reworked the Covers and seperated them for the Modders. You can now easily create your own designs on the most seen Parts of the Riser.</li><li>The printability. Puh i don´t know how to begin exactly. Makerworld makes a lot very easy. But a project like this is not easy. It´s big, it can fail as any other Print… it can fail! But you can do a lot that the chance that it will fail is very small. You have to know your printer, your Filament, your Buildplate… The condition is not the same as i have. But it´s quite easy to begin if you have a predefined Profile. But it´s not a Microwave, it´s a 3D-Printer, a popular and wonderfull Printer. It makes a lot easier and it´s the by far best for consumer on the marked… and nevertheless you have to know what you do. Please keep in mind! I reworked a lot to make it even easier. Less Supports (less filament usage is everytime the best optimization!) Tuned Overhangs especially on the back which is on the Print surface while printing Part 3 and 4. and many more changes</li></ol>happy printing<h2>Features Description</h2><h4>Accessories Port New second Accessories Connector Port. The Port is redesigned an optimized. Accessories fits tighter. The Spoolholder on V1 was a bit to loose.</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_d57fe6c9f6869.png"></figure><h4>New seperated Drawer Front Cover and Handle</h4>With the new separated Drawer Front you can create easily your own Designs and Text on it and print it upside down for best looking Surface. (STEP File of the Cover included) The new Handle locks both Parts (Drawer and Cover) together. No Glue needed!&nbsp;Compatible Inserts for the Drawer <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/44128#profileId-45567" rel="nofollow noopener">Original Inserts &amp; Dividers</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1818851574" rel="nofollow noopener">tomtom5893</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/50855#profileId-52695" rel="nofollow noopener">CHT Nozzle Holder</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2301853465" rel="nofollow noopener">kylecasey4</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_e7570c3e6befc.png"></figure><h4>New P1S Front Dash Parts with separated Cover for leave Blank or your own Design</h4>In the Standard V2 you have a dummy for the Slot where you can mod different things like a light Switch. The Slot for the MicroSD Card is now protected with a Cover. If you press on the lower Part of the Cover it opens. Yes it´s tricky to get the Card out, but how often you want to get it out… i recommend to use a tweezer or something else. The Covers of Part 5 &amp; 6 is now separated too. You can add your own designs and print it upside down. (STEP Files of the Covers included)<h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_a2e0b276312d6.png"> Light Strip integration and Anti Glare</h4>The Lightstrip integration is fully redesigned and now combines “V1 Standard” and “V1 12mm Edition” in one sleak Design. You now have a lot of cable tie position to safe your Printer from falling Lightstrip!<ul><li>I strongly recommend COB LED Light Strip with 8mm width. Length 2m and cutable.</li><li>Yes you can also use 10mm or 12mm BUT beware. Most 12mm LED Strip are so stiff that it´s a mess to integrate them.</li></ul>The Anti Glare Feature moved from the Mainbodies to the TPU Gasket Parts because of collisions with the PTFE Tube while printing big Parts. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_88977cc660f9.png">Why more Light? Do i need more Light? YES i think so! <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_7662231c60b07.png"><h4>The Toolholder Connector</h4>With this Connector you can add whatever you want to the Riser. In the First step i added the Connector for my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28768#profileId-25133" rel="nofollow noopener">P1S Tools Model (Get it here on Makerworld)</a>. The Toolholder Connector is provided as a Step File as well. With this the Modding Community is able to connect whatever they want. There are 6 Connector Ports 4 of this. 2 on the Left Side and 2 on the Right Side. There are 2 more Connector Ports on the Back in a different design. (STEP File of the Toolholder Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_6005761ec053d.png"></figure>You can also attach a Spoolholder. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/53455#profileId-55205" rel="nofollow noopener">Get my Version with Bearings here</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_841008088edb2.png"></figure>The “Back Connector” is finally released. Unleash your modding ideas, perhaps for an ESP32 case that can be attached to the back? Use one, two or even all 4 connectors for your modding idea. (STEP File of the Back Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-02-23_e06df92819799.jpg"></figure><h4>Where to find the &#34;RAW Files&#34; on Makerworld? e.g. Back Connector …</h4>So there are 2 Options. One you can see in the folowing picture as provided by the designer you can find the Parts under “Download STL” else <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_12c13e3925103.png"></figure><h4>Asssembling Guide</h4><ol><li>Push Part 2 on Part 1 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_0b3ee7ecae28a.png"></li><li>Push carefully Part 3 on Part 4 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_719957f53c68.png"></li><li>Then push carefully both Parts 3 &amp; 4 together from the Top to the Bottom in Part 1 &amp; 2 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_1d6c733360ed3.png"></li><li>tba</li></ol>

AMS Riser V2

AMS mods

JDJDJD

<h2>Meet The Shifty!</h2>&nbsp;The Shifty allows you to quickly and easily center your build plate on Bambu Lab 3D Printers (X1C/P1S/P1P Style).&nbsp;This is the first and original Build Plate Guide ever to be shared on MakerWorld.&nbsp;As a brand new product, I&#39;ve meticulously designed the Shifty to make your life easier, every time you insert your build plate.&nbsp;<h3>How it works:</h3>&nbsp;The Shifty build plate guide increases the contact area of the built-in plate guides. This means you have more room for error when sliding your plate into place.&nbsp;It also eliminates cases where the plate skips over the existing guides, or lands on top of them uncentered and un-level which can cause failed prints.&nbsp;The increased guide height also allows you to slide the plate in at a greater angle, which is more comfortable and minimizes instances when the plate clamps down before it&#39;s properly positioned.&nbsp;<h3>How to use:</h3>&nbsp;Slide your plate in like normal, but aim the back left corner of your plate towards the Shifty. Once you make contact it will take over and shift your plate perfectly into place.&nbsp;The Shifty is low profile and clips to the back left corner of your bed, out of the way from activity.&nbsp;<h3>Installation:</h3>&nbsp;Step 1 - Connect The Front:&nbsp;Insert the front tab into the notch located at the front of the built-in guides.&nbsp;Step 2 - First Click:&nbsp;Wrap it around towards the back and press so it “clicks” into place. (see video below).&nbsp;Step 3 - Second Click ←- Double Check This One:&nbsp;After you hear the first click as shown in the video, you may have to press down on rear hook (right side of back edge) to seat it properly into place. This is the second click. I recommend pressing down in the back even if you think you have it in place just to make sure.&nbsp;When properly installed, the Shifty will be very snug, perfectly level, and without distortion.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000083480/design/2023-12-04_8cba772444acc.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;If you have any questions, feel free to direct message me.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Tips and Notes:</h3><ul><li>The Shifty is designed to look cool and print beautifully. The supports are custom tailored and break away easily in one piece with a simple twist for most materials. For some materials, you can simply twist counterclockwise while it&#39;s still on the plate and it will cleanly break away.</li><li>To replace or remove, access it from the bottom side of the bed and press backwards on the back edge until it unclips.</li><li>When properly installed, the Shifty will be very snug and perfectly level. If it isn’t, study it&#39;s shape and check the back edge, you may need to push it down on the back edge so it snaps into place.</li><li>If you print a lot of high-temp materials, consider making a Shifty in PETG, ASA or ABS. These profiles are tested and also available.</li><li>At this time I&#39;m releasing the left side only. I have a right side model completed, but am not releasing it for now since the left-only approach works well and keeps the Shifty away from the back right purge strip activity. Feel free to mirror a right side in Bambu Studio for your own use, but please don&#39;t upload profiles with the right side mirrored at this time.</li></ul>

The Shifty - Build Plate Guide

X1C mods

Robjohnsilvers

A “dual” action screw jack to support a GPU or other sagging things. There are 2 premade sizes, Short (2.5" to 4.25") and Long (4" to 7.5"). The concept behind this is two different bolts, a traditional right hand thread bolt and a left hand thread bolt. This allows the jack to be adjusted without rotating the faces that touch the object being supported. That way you can adjust the amount of support/distance more easily without the jack moving around. The hex portion has a identifier mark to indicate the side that is left hand threaded. If you really needed to you could use a 5/8" wrench to adjust this jack.&nbsp;Just as a reminder this is a light duty plastic screw jack and is not ment to bear any real weights.

AMS mods

X1C mods

To Do