stevenyoung202

Jeff Smith

Wanted a stand to hold Cinderwing Crystal dragons though it should hold anything that is ~50mm wide. There is at least one stand published by another, but I wanted to hold more than 5 which I think was the max of the other stand, and it was made for dragons smaller than 100%.&nbsp;This stand will easily hold 8 full size (100%) dragons, and you can hold an additional 4 if you want to stack 2 deep on the cross members. I also print “medium” dragons which are 75%, and this will hold those as well, and you can stack those up in each slot. Just keep in mind that the more you put on the stand, the more difficult it will be for somebody to see them all and pull one off to look at it. The following picture is very busy. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/861991/2024-03-28_a11ae2dacc48.jpg">&nbsp;I am only planning on using 8 large, or 4 large and 2 x Mediums on the corners.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/861991/2024-03-28_3b323164e3dea.jpg"> I&#39;ve included crossbars that can be put in front of each dragon for added stability, though they aren&#39;t necessarily required. See the picture below. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/861991/2024-03-28_5c5837d82a698.jpg"> In the previous picture, notice the CAP at the top. More rods could be put in place above the hangers by leaving the cap off, but again, the taller it gets, the more unstable it might be. I only tested and plan to use 2 x rods and 1 x joiner so anything above that is up to you. In the pictures, the bottom of the full-size dragon tails are just hitting the table top and mostly that&#39;s because at the end of printing one of the 2 rods, it fell over, so I lost about an inch. NOTE they are hollow, so you can make them as short or as long as you&#39;d like. I printed the rods with no infill and 99 walls, and they are very heavy and very stiff. Might work with infill and not 99 walls, but the weight and the stiffness help with stability. Depending on how you print these, you may have to adjust sizes up or down 1% for a very snug fit, but I printed them at 100% with PLA and they all fit snug, as expected.

Large Crystal Dragon Display Stand

Fall Line

BeeTee 3D

The symbol of Venom, Spider-Man's villain.&nbsp;Two back plates are included: one with a hole for hanging on a wall, and one without a hole for placing on a table or a desk.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you'll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS's to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that's just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you'll need to research how to do that on your own, because I'm not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I'm weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like "light blue".</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that's intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don't care, I'm not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you're placing it on a flat surface.  If you're hanging it on a wall, you don't need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that's what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I'm not your mom.  </li><li>Once you've got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol' PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it's assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you're British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you're going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can't decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what's called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there's neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There's also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn't matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that's still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you're buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that's just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don't want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you're ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it's lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you'll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here's the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you're only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you're done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What's the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I'm not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Venom symbol LED lamp

Light Box

Schichtwerk3D

Unleash the ultimate storage solution for your Hot Wheels® collection with my custom-designed 3D printable modular system! Say goodbye to cluttered spaces and hello to a sleek, customizable organizer that grows with your fleet. My easy-to-print honeycomb modules combined to personal preferences seamlessly, creating a dynamic display that showcases your cars in style. Whether you’re a collector or a racing enthusiast, my system is the perfect pit stop for your prized vehicles. &nbsp;Print, connect, and display – it’s that simple!&nbsp;Rev up your 3D printer and take the pole position in organization with my modular Hot Wheel® storage system. Start your engines, and let’s hit the track to tidiness! 🏎️💨&nbsp;Printing informations:<ul><li>Print size: 13 x 4 x 4.5 cm / l x h x w</li><li>I printed all parts in PLA or PLA+</li><li>The screw adapters need to printed with brim </li></ul>

Modular Hot Wheels honeycomb organizer

For the Boys

filete3d

Silent Ping Pong Paddle, Customizable pattern! No glue required, just snap on the handle!&nbsp;This model was created from experimenting with other 3D printed paddle models, which turned out to be very noisy. Inspired by the airless style, we designed a paddle capable of being customized to the user's preference, choosing the type and percentage of infill.&nbsp;New raquet grif pattern profile uploaded!, reduced printing time at half!&nbsp;How does it work? In Bambu Studio (or any other laminator) remove all the top and bottom layers and play with the infill parameters, at least 15% infill is recommended to achieve an efficient hitting surface.&nbsp;Print the handle with normal printing profile and just snap on the two pieces!&nbsp;Airless Ping Pong Ball tested model: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386079#profileId-286461" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/386079#profileId-286461</a>

Silent Ping Pong Paddle Airless Style Customizable

'Airless'

3Design

Easter bunny holder for kinder surprise,It fits one kinder surprise. You can also add name tag to it as shown on picture.Also add a little bow tie for extra flair.

Easter Bunny Kinder surprise stand 

Holidays

FilliFuu

Cute baby dragon bracelet, multiple profiles including A1 mini with various sizes for adults or children.All print in place without supports and that's it. Carefully open the mouth to use the link.Avoid using silk for the mouth as silk is rather weak.&nbsp;Enjoy.

Lucky Charm Baby Flexi Dragon Bracelet

nice naks

3DPrintBox

I wnated to get a bit more organized with some of my “Wall Art” I wasnt sure which direction I wanted it to be pointing. This Wall Mount can point your “wall Art” in any direction. It can also be mounted Vertically as well.

3DPrintBox - AR15 Wall Mount

loud

Three Dimensions

Bullet Bill Hitch Cover - One piece print for strength

Bullet Bill Hitch Cover 

vehicle 

derjungeinhd

Here are my new designed simplified Halloween coasters!There are each two designs for Pumpkins and Ghosts.Also I created two holders for two or four coasters!&nbsp;Hope you like them!<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/37178" rel="nofollow noopener">Also, check out my Halloween Door Hangers!</a>&nbsp;Recommended Colors:Pumpkin designs: orangeGhost designs: white / light greyHolders: black / dark grey&nbsp;Examples on the pictures were printed on my P1P with Overture PLA and eSUN PLA lite.Pictures of the Ghosts designs follow soon, I don't have any white PLA right now…&nbsp;Changes:V1.1: Added A1mini print profiles for the coasters and A1mini support for holder print profiles&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d3f234b72fee631b4a357f2e/w/9f892e4882a4cf2a4f71a70a/e/8485b74b053638a4270e7f3b" rel="nofollow noopener">Created with Onshape</a>

Simple Halloween coasters! 4 different designs + holder!

Halloween 

braga3dprint

Introducing the 3D printable sign that playfully warns, "Warning! Do Not Read This Sign!" Designed to inject humor into any space, this sign defies curiosity and invites laughter. With its customizable design, you can easily 3D print this sign and enjoy the smiles and chuckles it brings as people try to resist the urge to read it. Embrace the funny side and add a touch of mischief to your surroundings with this hilarious sign.

Warning Do Not Read This Sign

Kroella

A simple sun visor for 52mm gauges.

Sun visor for 52mm gauges

work?

Steve_.

Bread Clip

house helpers

BamBam Design

Nice modern Design Vase5 different height profiles added. Picture shows 120mm & 180mm VasePrinted in Spiral Vase Mode with 0,7 Wall.Happy Printing 👍

Design Vase - 5 Sizes

vase 

TrocheHole

These 3D models are faithful replicas of Shurikens, Ninja throwing stars, that can also be used as coasters.&nbsp;[ CAUTION! ]Please be careful not to injure others or yourself, as the shapes of the models are very sharp.&nbsp;

Shuriken Coaster — Replica of Ninja Throwing Star

get nephews in trouble 

Kocyns

<h3>Basic info:</h3><ul><li>Toroidal propeller launcher with double planetary gearbox.</li><li>Update: Part 13-256.stl - extended stick for bed 256x256mm (A1/P1/X1).</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.15%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-12-17_c4bb05a73c6fe.gif"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.63%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_83uzwi9s2ww6.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Gearbox:<ul><li>Non-printable parts: You just need one type of screws (M3x16 Countersunk screw, DIN 7991) for assembly.</li><li>Gear ratio 1:12 with smooth move.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 28.52%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_zynkq0o8slne.gif"></figure><h3>Printing:</h3><ul><li>No supports!</li><li>Layers height are 0,12-0,2mm.</li><li>Recommended material for gears is PETG, see below to BOM.</li></ul><h3>BOM:</h3><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th colspan="4">Printed parts/Purchased parts</th></tr><tr><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">Item</th><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">File</th><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">Qty</th><th style="border: 1px solid #000000">Description</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center">1</td><td>1.stl</td><td>8</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">2</td><td>2.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">3</td><td>3-Ring-up.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">4</td><td>4-Ring-down.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">5</td><td>5.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">6</td><td>6.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">7</td><td>7.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">8</td><td>8.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PLA (1)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">9</td><td>9.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">10</td><td>10.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PLA</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">11</td><td>11.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PLA</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">12</td><td>12.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">13</td><td>13, 13Low ,13-256</td><td>1</td><td>PETG (2)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">14</td><td>14.stl</td><td>1</td><td>PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">15</td><td>Tor_170.stl, Tor_200.stl</td><td>1</td><td>Propeller (3)</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">-</td><td>Tor_base.step</td><td>-</td><td>to create remixes</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align: center">16</td><td>Screw M3x16</td><td>11</td><td>Countersunk screw (DIN 7991)</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><ol><li>Recommended high of layers 0,12mm</li><li>13Low.stl is for printer bed size under 250x210mm. 13-256.stl - extended stick for bed 256x256mm (A1/P1/X1).</li><li>170mm or 200mm toroidal propeller +105mm. Recommended high of layers 0,12mm.</li></ol><h3>Assembly:</h3>STEP 1:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.15%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_wkmqsgwz6zyl.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.03%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_lbjrwlyynvsa.png"><figcaption>Note: Screw (red) in detail A shouldn&#39;t be too tight!</figcaption></figure>STEP 2:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.02%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_ozf5yzznmp1z.png"></figure>STEP 3:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.02%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_oog17ne6f0uq.png"></figure>STEP 4:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 39.99%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_sstcnap2p6qk.png"></figure>STEP 5: Let&#39;s fly!!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.14%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000077780/design/2023-11-29_4qb6fj7yq7z3.png"></figure><h3>Commercial uses:</h3>If you want permission for commercial use: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/kocy/" rel="nofollow noopener">patreon.com/Kocy</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Note: By downloading and using the model, you agree that it is provided &#34;as is,&#34; without any warranties. The authors of this model are not liable for any accidents, damages, or other issues that may arise from its use. Users are encouraged to exercise caution and use the model responsibly. The author disclaims any responsibility for any losses or damages incurred through the use of this product.

ToroSpin Turbo - Launcher with planetary gearbox

Assembly

Mick23

<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/401302/2023-11-17_da43ff36fa84.jpg">Hi everybody,Here is a little lamp speciale for Christmas very easy to print and very quickYou can install a led candle in it.The front can be printed in another color.You can choose between 3 print profiles for the cover, a loose fit cover or a normal cover or the very tight fit..(See Other print profiles for the cover).I have inserted a hole on the bottom of the main part, so that you can easely operate the switch.I have also made a 5 point star and a 8 point star in the same concept.( to find it , see in my designs).<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/499014435" rel="nofollow noopener">Mick23 | Published - MakerWorld</a>&nbsp;And please if you like it , share it and print it!!!! And show me your pictures. and rate the print profile please Like it if you want and follow me for other items. Comments welcome

Christmas tree  NO support  print

Christmas 

bonfiggy

Perfect fitting antivibration feet printed in TPU with 15-20% infill for best results. No supports needed! Seems to help a good bit as well with the shaking/noise and a lot less printer wobble as well :)