stekam

berri3D

<p>This card kit is a simpler version of my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/49240#profileId-51175" rel="nofollow noopener">Halloween House Card Kit</a>. It is easier for little fingers to assemble and it's sized to fit nine to a plate on the X1C and P1P/S and four to a plate on the A1 mini. They're the perfect size to print as treats for any little ghosts or goblins that come to your house on All Hallows Eve!</p><ul><li>Ages 3 and up</li><li>Easy to assemble</li><li>Great giveaways to trick or treaters or as party favours</li><li>Print time: less than 30 minutes for one solid-colour model</li></ul><h3>Trouble? Questions? Comments? Please don't hesitate to get in touch</h3><h3><span style="color:hsl(30,75%,60%);"><i><strong>Happy Halloween and Happy Printing!</strong></i></span></h3><h3>Tolerances and fit</h3><p>There are two sizes - one for the A1 mini and one for the X1C/P1P/S. The A1 mini has a tighter tolerance.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>IMPORTANT: Before batch printing or multi-colour printing, print one in a solid colour first</strong>. This is to test the fit of the card pieces. Minor differences in filament flow can mean the difference between fitting and not fitting.  </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Note:</strong> the below X-Y hole compensation settings are not compatible with multi-colour printing. If you require a different tolerance for a multi-colour print, please let me know and I will create one for you.</p><ul><li><strong>Too tight?</strong> Change the X-Y hole compensation setting to 0.05 mm and reprint. Adjust up or down as needed.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/375754/2023-10-25_10a1e251c2ff9.png"></li><li><strong>Too loose?</strong> Change the X-Y hole compensation setting to -0.05 mm and reprint. Adjust up or down as needed.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/375754/2023-10-25_8e82d3e6d8716.png"></li></ul><h3>Print Settings</h3><p>The .3mf files include my recommended print settings:</p><ul><li><strong>Nozzle size:</strong> 0.4 mm<i> (don't change as it may prevent pieces from fitting together)</i></li><li><strong>Plate type:</strong> Smooth PEI Plate/High Temp Plate for X1C/P1P/S and Textured PEI for A1 mini.</li><li><strong>Layer height:</strong> 0.2 mm <i>(don't change as it may prevent pieces from fitting together)</i></li><li><strong>First layer speed:</strong> 15 mm/s<i> (slow to prevent small details from coming loose from the plate)</i></li><li><strong>Wall order:</strong> outer/inner <i>(for the same reason as above)</i></li><li><strong>Wall generator:</strong> Classic <i>(don't use Arachne because it will throw off the tolerances)</i></li><li><strong>Brim:</strong> none</li></ul><h3>Filament settings</h3><ul><li>This model has been tested using the default uncalibrated “Generic PLA” preset with multiple filaments from various manufacturers. </li><li>If you find that the top surfaces are rough, reduce filament flow ratio. <strong>Caution:</strong> this may change fit so reprint the tolerance test first.</li><li>If you're using a custom filament preset, your results may vary.</li><li>Display models were printed in PLA as follows: Orange (Hatchbox), White (Overture), Purple (AMZ3D), and Black (AMZ3D).</li></ul><h3>Multicolour</h3><ul><li>The model is AMS multicolour ready and provided pre-painted.</li><li>If you prefer to paint it yourself, I recommend leaving the first layer as one colour as it will help with adhesion. However, each bottom surface is isolated and paintable if you should so choose.</li><li><strong>DON'T print your multicolour masterpiece without first printing the tolerance test!</strong></li><li>Tips to reduce waste:<ul><li>purging volumes have been automatically calculated and reduced by 50%. You may need to change this to suit your own colours.</li><li>X1C and P1P/S: Print nine at a time</li><li>A1 mini: print four at a time</li></ul></li></ul><h3>About the model</h3><p>This is my second card kit but this time designed for the original intent my first one was. Namely, to be an all ages (3 and up) handout for trick or treaters as well as be optimized for batch printing. No customization I'm afraid, but that was the trade-off. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i>P.S. I'm already planning a similar Winter/Christmas card kit so please follow me if you're interested!</i></p><h3>Licensing</h3><p>This kit is non-commercial and may not be sold, reproduced, or shared outside of this website. However, I will consider an individual license fee if you wish to sell printed models in your local area such as at a craft show. Please contact me for details.</p><p>------------------------</p><h3>Changelog</h3><p>January 8, 2024</p><ul><li>Updated description to align with changed MakerWorld TOC</li></ul><p>October 28, 2023</p><ul><li>Initial upload</li></ul>

[Card Kit] Trick or Treat House Diorama

Halloween 

andythilo

<p>Honeycomb sided edition of the Bambu refillable spool. Photos show 2 versions, one is with infill, the other is 100% Rectilinear. The 100% takes a bit longer but looks much nicer with transparent PLA to match the original Bambu spools.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>NEW VORONOI EDITION - https://makerworld.com/en/models/159888#profileId-175550</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>V3 Update!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Elongated the filament retaining holes</li><li>Fixed some surface issues</li><li>Added Bambu floating logo</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><p>V2 Update!</p><ul><li>Added 6 sets of filament retaining holes on both sides</li><li>Added filament retention hole on the inside secure filament end when re-spooling</li><li>Added 12 filament tag inserts</li><li>Added Blank insert for your own names in raw section</li></ul>

*V3* Bambu Spool - HoneyComb Edition - With Filament Markers

Favorites

maCyo42

<p><strong>It&#39;s done!!!</strong> All Parts printed and assembled! I started the Riser V2 early December and changed the last Parts yesterday. There&#39;s a lot of work in this design, so many small and big changes. Today i will start to Release the first completed picture of the Riser V2 and the Profiles of the Mainbodies. As you later can see i&#39;ve seperated some Parts so that you can play around with Step Files for your own Design Fronts.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h2>Should I print the Riser V1 or V2? Here are the differences.</h2><ol><li>There are 2 Versions of the V1. The Standard is for 8mm Lightstrips and the 12mm Edition for 12mm Lightstrip and additionaly you can fix the Lightstrip with Cable ties.<br>V2 combines the Features of both V1 Riser in this Case.<br><strong>I received a lot questions: Will 12mm Lightstrips fit? It can but that is not sure. It not depends only on the width. The stiffness is one big issue for the curves. Try it i cannot guarantee! There are different lightstrips on the market.</strong></li><li>V2 is tuned more for function than design. There are additionaly Connectors for Accessories like Tools.</li><li>Early December i began to work on V2. My intention was the big change in the Anti Glare Feature and the Connectors.<br>But meanwhile there where some critics on the V1. Some Makers reported a bad fitting of their Top Glas. To much loose in the Spoolholder fitting and so on. So the logical consequence was to rework many things on V2.</li><li>The Modders. I had so many Mails and Msg… can you please add Hexagons insted of Holes and so on. Because of this i reworked the Covers and seperated them for the Modders. You can now easily create your own designs on the most seen Parts of the Riser.</li><li>The printability. Puh i don´t know how to begin exactly. Makerworld makes a lot very easy. But a project like this is not easy. It´s big, it can fail as any other Print… it can fail! But you can do a lot that the chance that it will fail is very small. You have to know your printer, your Filament, your Buildplate… The condition is not the same as i have. But it´s quite easy to begin if you have a predefined Profile.<br>But it´s not a Microwave, it´s a 3D-Printer, a popular and wonderfull Printer. It makes a lot easier and it´s the by far best for consumer on the marked… and nevertheless you have to know what you do. Please keep in mind!<br>I reworked a lot to make it even easier. Less Supports (less filament usage is everytime the best optimization!)<br>Tuned Overhangs especially on the back which is on the Print surface while printing Part 3 and 4. and many more changes</li></ol><p>happy printing</p><h2>Features Description</h2><h4>Accessories Port<br><span style="background-color: rgb(255,255,255); color: rgb(89,89,89); font-size: 14px">New second Accessories Connector Port. The Port is redesigned an optimized. Accessories fits tighter. The Spoolholder on V1 was a bit to loose.</span></h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_d57fe6c9f6869.png"></figure><h4>New seperated Drawer Front Cover and Handle</h4><p>With the new separated Drawer Front you can create easily your own Designs and Text on it and print it upside down for best looking Surface. <strong>(STEP File of the Cover included)</strong><br>The new Handle locks both Parts (Drawer and Cover) together. No Glue needed!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i><strong><u>Compatible Inserts for the Drawer</u></strong></i><br><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/44128#profileId-45567" rel="nofollow noopener">Original Inserts &amp; Dividers</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1818851574" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong>tomtom5893</strong></a></p><p><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/50855#profileId-52695" rel="nofollow noopener">CHT Nozzle Holder</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2301853465" rel="nofollow noopener"><strong>kylecasey4</strong></a></p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_e7570c3e6befc.png"></figure><h4>New P1S Front Dash Parts with separated Cover for leave Blank or your own Design</h4><p>In the Standard V2 you have a dummy for the Slot where you can mod different things like a light Switch.<br>The Slot for the MicroSD Card is now protected with a Cover. If you press on the lower Part of the Cover it opens. Yes it´s tricky to get the Card out, but how often you want to get it out… i recommend to use a tweezer or something else.<br>The Covers of Part 5 &amp; 6 is now separated too. You can add your own designs and print it upside down. <strong>(STEP Files of the Covers included)</strong></p><h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_a2e0b276312d6.png"><br>Light Strip integration and Anti Glare</h4><p>The Lightstrip integration is fully redesigned and now combines “<i>V1 Standard</i>” and “<i>V1 12mm Edition</i>” in one sleak Design.<br>You now have a lot of cable tie position to safe your Printer from falling Lightstrip!</p><ul><li><strong>I strongly recommend COB LED Light Strip with 8mm width. </strong>Length 2m and cutable.</li><li>Yes you can also use 10mm or 12mm BUT beware. Most 12mm LED Strip are so stiff that it´s a mess to integrate them.</li></ul><p>The Anti Glare Feature moved from the Mainbodies to the TPU Gasket Parts because of collisions with the PTFE Tube while printing big Parts.<br><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_88977cc660f9.png"></p><p>Why more Light? Do i need more Light? YES i think so!<br><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_7662231c60b07.png"></p><h4>The Toolholder Connector</h4><p>With this Connector you can add whatever you want to the Riser. In the First step i added the Connector for my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28768#profileId-25133" rel="nofollow noopener">P1S Tools Model (Get it here on Makerworld)</a>.<br>The Toolholder Connector is provided as a Step File as well. With this the Modding Community is able to connect whatever they want.<br>There are 6 Connector Ports 4 of this. 2 on the Left Side and 2 on the Right Side. There are 2 more Connector Ports on the Back in a different design. <strong>(STEP File of the Toolholder Connector included)</strong></p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_6005761ec053d.png"></figure><p>You can also attach a Spoolholder. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/53455#profileId-55205" rel="nofollow noopener">Get my Version with Bearings here</a></p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_841008088edb2.png"></figure><p>The “Back Connector” is finally released. Unleash your modding ideas, perhaps for an ESP32 case that can be attached to the back?<br>Use one, two or even all 4 connectors for your modding idea.<br><strong>(STEP File of the Back Connector included)</strong></p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-02-23_e06df92819799.jpg"></figure><h4>Where to find the &#34;RAW Files&#34; on Makerworld? e.g. Back Connector …</h4><p>So there are 2 Options. One you can see in the folowing picture as provided by the designer you can find the Parts under “Download STL” else </p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_12c13e3925103.png"></figure><h4>Asssembling Guide</h4><ol><li>Push Part 2 on Part 1<br><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_0b3ee7ecae28a.png"></li><li>Push carefully Part 3 on Part 4<br><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_719957f53c68.png"></li><li>Then push carefully both Parts 3 &amp; 4 together from the Top to the Bottom in Part 1 &amp; 2<br><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_1d6c733360ed3.png"></li><li>tba</li></ol>

Halloween

Favorites

mine