sanchezmj228

3d_printall

Two simple parts to print. You must glue both on the original engine design. Check my Instagram video for a tutorial <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2knwxSNmQW/?igsh=MWcxY2tsemp3N3lhaA==" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>

N20 Motor mount for Jet Engine

Nigel

Loving my A1, but it's a little messy… and I'm a little lazy. So I developed this poop conveyor. This project is not intended to define how you power the conveyor, I use a pico-controlled 38mm high NEMA17 stepper, which is less than ideal, but works for me. If there is any interest, I'll publish how I made my electronics, and upload a blank coupler so you can customise the connection. You'll be good if your drive spindle centre is 28.2mm off the ground.<h3>Additional bits</h3>You'll need four 608 bearings, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/148066#profileId-161542" rel="nofollow noopener">3d printed ones will do</a>. Ideally, you'll also have a poop deflector that aims the poop more downward, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/148066#profileId-161542" rel="nofollow noopener">like this one</a>. You'll need to work out a way to drive the conveyor, You may also require two M3 screws to hold the spindle caps on the one spindle. Tracks are assembled with filament from the end of a roll.<h3>Printing</h3>I'd recommend printing everything in PLA, for no particular reason, it's just easier and the project has no specific needs. The tracks work fine for me in PLA, but if you're printing in PETG a lot, then the poop can be quite hot, and I have had it stick to the conveyor a bit until it's scraped off underneath after a while. Maybe print the tracks in PETG for more heat tolerance.<h3>Assembly</h3><ul><li>Slide the box halves together and insert the lock pins in the insides.</li><li>Add your bearings of choice. They should be tight, but not require a hammer.</li><li>Assemble the track using 32 links, don't close the loop yet. Depending on what you print them in, the holes may require drilling out to 2 mm. They are designed to use a piece of end roll filament as it is naturally curvy enough to ‘lock’ in place.</li><li>Slide the track in from the ‘bin’ end, and rest it on the track support in the box.</li><li>Put the drive wheel inside the box and slide a spindle through the bearings and drive shaft.</li><li>Put the second drive wheel in for the ‘bin’ end but don't put the spindle on it yet, and then close the track with the final bit of filament.</li><li>If you lift the box and hold it from the drive end, the track should hang at the right point for you to insert the second spindle.</li><li>For the spindle at the ‘bin’ end, you can screw on the spindle caps with M3 screws of your choosing.</li><li>Now you just need to attach the motor to the drive ned and you're off.</li></ul><h3>Electronics</h3>I use a <a target="_blank" href="https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico?variant=41925332566211" rel="nofollow noopener">PICO (with headers)</a> to power things, I have no idea how to set this up and get stuff working properly, so I followed the <a target="_blank" href="https://projects.raspberrypi.org/en/projects/getting-started-with-the-pico/3" rel="nofollow noopener">PICO install micropython</a> guide and it seemed to work eventually. I also use the <a target="_blank" href="https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico-motor-driver-hat?variant=39949999505603" rel="nofollow noopener">motor shield</a> and a <a target="_blank" href="https://thepihut.com/products/nema-17-stepper-motor-42mm-x-34mm" rel="nofollow noopener">NEMA 17 stepper motor</a>. Here is the code I used to drive it. Tweak, and you do you. I can't seem to upload a python file.&nbsp;#####################################from machine import Pin import timeled = Pin("LED", Pin.OUT)# Stepper motor controller M1E = 17 # Enable M1A = 21 # Phase 1 M1B = 20 # Phase 2M2E = 16 # Enable M2A = 19 # Phase 1 M2B = 18 # Phase 2 #step_count = 8m1e = Pin(M1E, Pin.OUT) m1a = Pin(M1A,Pin.OUT) m1b = Pin(M1B,Pin.OUT)  m2e = Pin(M2E, Pin.OUT) m2a = Pin(M2A,Pin.OUT)  m2b = Pin(M2B,Pin.OUT)step_ms = time.ticks_ms() # to calculate deltas step_delay=1000 step_now = -1 # Starting stateled_ms = time.ticks_ms() # to calculate switch off LED time led_delay=10;def setStep(p1, p2, p3, p4):     m1a(p1)     m1b(p2)     m2a(p3)     m2b(p4) def doStep():     global step_now, step_count, n     step_now += 1     if step_now >= step_count:          step_now = 0     setStep(n[step_now][0], n[step_now][1], n[step_now][2], n[step_now][3]) def setup():     global n, led_state, step_count      # motor loop enable, set value 0 to disable     m1e(1)     m2e(1)    # Set up the motor driver energise loop     step_count = 8     n = list(range(0, step_count))     n[0] = [0,1,0,0]     n[1] = [0,1,0,1]     n[2] = [0,0,0,1]     n[3] = [1,0,0,1]     n[4] = [1,0,0,0]     n[5] = [1,0,1,0]     n[6] = [0,0,1,0]     n[7] = [0,1,1,0]          led(0)     print("Setup complete")def loop():     global step_ms, step_delay, led_ms, led_delay     now_ms = time.ticks_ms()     if now_ms > (step_ms + step_delay):         led_ms = now_ms         step_ms = now_ms         led.value(1)         doStep()    if now_ms > (led_ms + led_delay):         led.value(0)setup() while True:     loop()

A1 Poop Conveyor

conveyor

Lov3d

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: PETG JAYO Black Transmission Distance: 0 PLA+ IIID Max Light Blue Transmission Distance: 8.3 PLA+ IIID Max Vintage Rose Transmission Distance: 12 PETG JAYO White Transmission Distance: 6&nbsp;!!!! It appears you have mixed filament types. Be certain this is what you want. !!!!!&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #5 (0.48mm) swap to Light Blue At layer #10 (0.88mm) swap to Vintage Rose At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to White for the rest.

Spiderman Art (HueForge)

others

Encrust3d

1/26/2026 update: u/Flyrockets informed me of an error that is occurring on Firmware 01.01.50.24 (beta tester firmware) that the nozzle will hit the build plate aligner after the third layer and cause an error, causing the print to stop. I have updated this design to lower the aligner to be 0.5mm above the Textured PEI build plate vs the 3mm it was previously. This shouldn't cause any errors as the third layer should be over 0.5mm in most cases, but I do not have the 01.01.50.24 firmware to confirm. Please let me know if you experience any errors while using this updated design and I will update it again. To easily remove your build plate aligner and update to the new one, remove the old build plate aligner starting with the lober side and simply push it down and off the heat bed.&nbsp;If you are enrolled in the beta firmware program with Bambu, please check your printer firmware before printing. If you are enrolled in the beta firmware program with Bambu, you will need the updated design. If you are not part of the beta firmware program, the original design will work great for you if your firmware is 01.01.01.00 (stock firmware)&nbsp;This is a guide for aligning the build plate on the Bambu Lab A1 printer I designed in Fusion 360. I have been having problems getting my build plate perfectly straight on my new A1 printer so I designed this to clip on to the right rear corner of the A1 heatbed to help align the build plate. This build plate aligner prints in less than 20 minutes and uses less than five grams of filament. This design has been tested to ensure it does not interfere with bed leveling or nozzle cleaning. This design needs to be printed in the orientation I have uploaded it in for proper fit.&nbsp;You can not mirror this design and use it on the left rear side of the bed. The nozzle will hit it when changing filaments or cleaning the nozzle and cause the print to stop.&nbsp;Printing in PLA works, but PETG is the better material to use for this aligner. If you find this model to be a little loose, it is to ensure it can be removed from your bed if you do not want it on anymore. I had numerous versions of this that fit perfectly but had to be cut off to be removed. I do not want you to have to cut this off of your printer if you want it removed.&nbsp;If you are interested in a A1 heatbed cable support clip, you can download it here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/118957#profileId-127976" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/118957#profileId-127976</a>&nbsp;

A1 Build Plate Aligner

utils 

BeeTee 3D

Two lamps in one! On one side is a spooky ghost with a color of your choice (red, orange, pink, or teal) – just swap out whatever filament color you want. These ghosts want one thing and one thing only – to chase down that pill popping lunatic Pac-Man. Why do they chase him? Who knows?! He's a maniac! He probably owes them money, though.&nbsp;&nbsp;But once he takes enough drugs, watch out! Because that's when he goes on a murderous rampage. Then the formerly brave ghosts turn into fleeing cowards, start crying, pee themselves a little, and turn blue. And that's when you can flip your lamp around to whimsically put yourselves in the shoes (does he even wear shoes?) of the homicidal serial killer addict known as Pac-Man.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you'll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS's to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that's just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you'll need to research how to do that on your own, because I'm not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I'm weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like "light blue".</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that's intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don't care, I'm not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you're placing it on a flat surface.  If you're hanging it on a wall, you don't need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that's what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I'm not your mom.  </li><li>Once you've got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol' PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it's assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you're British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you're going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can't decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what's called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there's neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There's also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn't matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that's still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you're buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that's just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don't want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you're ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it's lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you'll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here's the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you're only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you're done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What's the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I'm not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Two sided reversible Pac-Man LED lamp

lamps

Troyerse

Case for Iphone 13 pro max&nbsp;

iPhone 13 Pro Max Case

phones

3DPrintable.art

<figure class="table"><table style="border-style:solid;border-width:0px;"><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><h2>Please read these instructions before printing!</h2></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Adorable articulated teddy bear, perfect for a toy, a gift or a decorative item. This bear can stand up and sit down, and its arms and head can move. &nbsp;Works well in single or multi-color prints. Be creative and share your results!&nbsp;Don't be scared but printing this model will require supports:<figure class="table" style="width:95.8%;"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/371694/2023-12-30_3820f9457a368.jpg"></figure></td><td style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);">An example of a finished print with supports. As you can see, the model is surrounded by these weird structures, which are called supports.&nbsp;Support structures are used to support overhanging geometries and need to be removed once printing is over.&nbsp;There are <a target="_blank" href="https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+remove+support+structure+from+3D+prints" rel="nofollow noopener">multiple guides online</a> that will teach you how to use and remove supports, but it might be helpful to use some of these tools:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:70.84%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/371694/2024-01-06_3aba5e239a66c.png"></figure>&nbsp;Please avoid applying excessive force by hand, as it might break the printed object.&nbsp;Bambu Lab also has a great <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/support" rel="nofollow noopener">wiki article</a> that explains how you can use different support settings. If you find a better support configuration, please share your print profile.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>For a perfectly smooth surface, you can use a different <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/layer-height#effect-of-layer-height" rel="nofollow noopener">layer height</a> or experiment with<a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/adaptive-layer-height" rel="nofollow noopener"> variable layer heights</a>. In any case, expect the printing time to increase significantly, especially for multi-color prints.<figure class="table"><table style="border-style:solid;border-width:0px;"><tbody><tr><td style="border-style:solid;border-width:0px;">To <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change" rel="nofollow noopener">minimize filament waste</a>, we strongly recommend printing multiple objects simultaneously. &nbsp;The provided print profiles are merely suggestions, and when selecting different colors, please ensure that you update the <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change#auto-calc-flushing-volumes" rel="nofollow noopener">flushing volumes</a> to prevent any unexpected color mixing.</td><td style="border-style:solid;border-width:0px;"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:80.65%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/371694/2024-01-02_0dbb0bcdbe4e8.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:80.25%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/371694/2024-01-06_1ecd40b55155e.png"></figure></td><td style="border:0px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);">If you want to create your own print profile, please note that the neck is typically the weakest spot. It is recommended to reinforce it with a higher infill or additional wall loops.&nbsp;This should prevent it from breaking easily when removing supports or playing with the toy.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>COMMERCIAL LICENSE AVAILABLE: <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/3DPA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/3DPA</a>&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/943536974" rel="nofollow noopener">our other models</a>. Your likes and downloads support more content.&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;

jet

conveyor

others

utils

lamps

phones

toys