OzMMfg

Byrd Anthony

As I continue to learn Fusion360 and design more things, I kept wanting to tackle the infamous “junk drawer” in the kitchen.&nbsp;Nothing drives me more crazy than the ziplock / snack bags that come in a cardboard box and do not fit in the drawers. Every time I would open or close the door, they would jam up or get more ripped.&nbsp;Plus, with starting the gridfinity project for organization, it just did not look right.&nbsp;So I worked on designing a ziplock bag holder, that was simplistic, but had a secure lid. I wanted the lid to stay on when opening and closing the door and taking out a bag but be easy enough to remove for refilling the bags up.&nbsp;This is my first attempt at designing something with a lid and magnets, so hopefully you all enjoy.&nbsp;Magnets used are 6x2mm magnets:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/260Pcs-Refrigerator-Magnets-Fridge-Whiteboard/dp/B07XRQ44VC/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.432a6361-82bd-4986-a20f-2d4d577f5af5%3Aamzn1.sym.432a6361-82bd-4986-a20f-2d4d577f5af5&crid=16SM8BUAUUSAK&cv_ct_cx=6x2%2Bmm%2Bmagnets&keywords=6x2%2Bmm%2Bmagnets&pd_rd_i=B07XRQ44VC&pd_rd_r=73459101-e2b3-479a-891a-be1d8b476c0c&pd_rd_w=oYJlo&pd_rd_wg=C7Ptz&pf_rd_p=432a6361-82bd-4986-a20f-2d4d577f5af5&pf_rd_r=9930GADJGK5E3VR0SZH9&qid=1706363364&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=6x2%2Bmm%2Bmagnets%2Caps%2C72&sr=1-1-3f7eb011-4703-48ad-8058-43dbff1e6b87-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon.com: VNDUEEY 300Pcs Refrigerator Magnets, Small Magnets, Fridge Magnets, Whiteboard Magnets, Tiny Magnets, Round Magnets, Mini Magnets for Crafts, Miniatures, Nails, Office, Kitchen : Industrial & Scientific</a>&nbsp;Any feedback is always welcome!

Gridfinity Ziplock Bag Holder

Kitchen

maCyo42

It&#39;s done!!! All Parts printed and assembled! I started the Riser V2 early December and changed the last Parts yesterday. There&#39;s a lot of work in this design, so many small and big changes. Today i will start to Release the first completed picture of the Riser V2 and the Profiles of the Mainbodies. As you later can see i&#39;ve seperated some Parts so that you can play around with Step Files for your own Design Fronts.&nbsp;<h2>Should I print the Riser V1 or V2? Here are the differences.</h2><ol><li>There are 2 Versions of the V1. The Standard is for 8mm Lightstrips and the 12mm Edition for 12mm Lightstrip and additionaly you can fix the Lightstrip with Cable ties. V2 combines the Features of both V1 Riser in this Case. I received a lot questions: Will 12mm Lightstrips fit? It can but that is not sure. It not depends only on the width. The stiffness is one big issue for the curves. Try it i cannot guarantee! There are different lightstrips on the market.</li><li>V2 is tuned more for function than design. There are additionaly Connectors for Accessories like Tools.</li><li>Early December i began to work on V2. My intention was the big change in the Anti Glare Feature and the Connectors. But meanwhile there where some critics on the V1. Some Makers reported a bad fitting of their Top Glas. To much loose in the Spoolholder fitting and so on. So the logical consequence was to rework many things on V2.</li><li>The Modders. I had so many Mails and Msg… can you please add Hexagons insted of Holes and so on. Because of this i reworked the Covers and seperated them for the Modders. You can now easily create your own designs on the most seen Parts of the Riser.</li><li>The printability. Puh i don´t know how to begin exactly. Makerworld makes a lot very easy. But a project like this is not easy. It´s big, it can fail as any other Print… it can fail! But you can do a lot that the chance that it will fail is very small. You have to know your printer, your Filament, your Buildplate… The condition is not the same as i have. But it´s quite easy to begin if you have a predefined Profile. But it´s not a Microwave, it´s a 3D-Printer, a popular and wonderfull Printer. It makes a lot easier and it´s the by far best for consumer on the marked… and nevertheless you have to know what you do. Please keep in mind! I reworked a lot to make it even easier. Less Supports (less filament usage is everytime the best optimization!) Tuned Overhangs especially on the back which is on the Print surface while printing Part 3 and 4. and many more changes</li></ol>happy printing<h2>Features Description</h2><h4>Accessories Port New second Accessories Connector Port. The Port is redesigned an optimized. Accessories fits tighter. The Spoolholder on V1 was a bit to loose.</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_d57fe6c9f6869.png"></figure><h4>New seperated Drawer Front Cover and Handle</h4>With the new separated Drawer Front you can create easily your own Designs and Text on it and print it upside down for best looking Surface. (STEP File of the Cover included) The new Handle locks both Parts (Drawer and Cover) together. No Glue needed!&nbsp;Compatible Inserts for the Drawer <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/44128#profileId-45567" rel="nofollow noopener">Original Inserts &amp; Dividers</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1818851574" rel="nofollow noopener">tomtom5893</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/50855#profileId-52695" rel="nofollow noopener">CHT Nozzle Holder</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2301853465" rel="nofollow noopener">kylecasey4</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_e7570c3e6befc.png"></figure><h4>New P1S Front Dash Parts with separated Cover for leave Blank or your own Design</h4>In the Standard V2 you have a dummy for the Slot where you can mod different things like a light Switch. The Slot for the MicroSD Card is now protected with a Cover. If you press on the lower Part of the Cover it opens. Yes it´s tricky to get the Card out, but how often you want to get it out… i recommend to use a tweezer or something else. The Covers of Part 5 &amp; 6 is now separated too. You can add your own designs and print it upside down. (STEP Files of the Covers included)<h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_a2e0b276312d6.png"> Light Strip integration and Anti Glare</h4>The Lightstrip integration is fully redesigned and now combines “V1 Standard” and “V1 12mm Edition” in one sleak Design. You now have a lot of cable tie position to safe your Printer from falling Lightstrip!<ul><li>I strongly recommend COB LED Light Strip with 8mm width. Length 2m and cutable.</li><li>Yes you can also use 10mm or 12mm BUT beware. Most 12mm LED Strip are so stiff that it´s a mess to integrate them.</li></ul>The Anti Glare Feature moved from the Mainbodies to the TPU Gasket Parts because of collisions with the PTFE Tube while printing big Parts. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_88977cc660f9.png">Why more Light? Do i need more Light? YES i think so! <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_7662231c60b07.png"><h4>The Toolholder Connector</h4>With this Connector you can add whatever you want to the Riser. In the First step i added the Connector for my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28768#profileId-25133" rel="nofollow noopener">P1S Tools Model (Get it here on Makerworld)</a>. The Toolholder Connector is provided as a Step File as well. With this the Modding Community is able to connect whatever they want. There are 6 Connector Ports 4 of this. 2 on the Left Side and 2 on the Right Side. There are 2 more Connector Ports on the Back in a different design. (STEP File of the Toolholder Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_6005761ec053d.png"></figure>You can also attach a Spoolholder. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/53455#profileId-55205" rel="nofollow noopener">Get my Version with Bearings here</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_841008088edb2.png"></figure>The “Back Connector” is finally released. Unleash your modding ideas, perhaps for an ESP32 case that can be attached to the back? Use one, two or even all 4 connectors for your modding idea. (STEP File of the Back Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-02-23_e06df92819799.jpg"></figure><h4>Where to find the &#34;RAW Files&#34; on Makerworld? e.g. Back Connector …</h4>So there are 2 Options. One you can see in the folowing picture as provided by the designer you can find the Parts under “Download STL” else <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_12c13e3925103.png"></figure><h4>Asssembling Guide</h4><ol><li>Push Part 2 on Part 1 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_0b3ee7ecae28a.png"></li><li>Push carefully Part 3 on Part 4 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_719957f53c68.png"></li><li>Then push carefully both Parts 3 &amp; 4 together from the Top to the Bottom in Part 1 &amp; 2 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_1d6c733360ed3.png"></li><li>tba</li></ol>

AMS Riser V2

X1C Good Stuff

Matthew Ghost

The stand allowing you to comfortably and securely hold your mobile phone at the optimal viewing angle.<ul><li>Thanks to the worm gear, it can never happen that the stand with your mobile falls flat.</li><li>Thanks to the combination of a worm gear with bevel gears, the stand enables easy and smooth tilting.</li><li>Compatible with charger.</li><li>It is not necessary to glue the parts here. (Otherwise I made a profile where there are parts with clearance. This version requires the use of glue)</li><li>Smooth design</li><li>Different colors can be used for mechanical parts (Profile: Divided into two plates - Different color).</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.59%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/697160/2024-03-11_fa56fa03a1fa9.gif"></figure>Assembly instruction:Instructions can be found in the video below. Please follow the procedure: (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9PywQ-fwkmk" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a>)<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9PywQ-fwkmk" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9PywQ-fwkmk</a><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9PywQ-fwkmk"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PywQ"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9PywQ" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure>Groove clearance problem:If there is too big clearance in the guide groove (02_Gear and 03_Base), it may happen that the 02_Gear tilts too much and the 01_Worm gear will not engage (the stand will not tilt). If this situation occurs, I recommend slightly pushing the left side of the 02_Gear and turning with the 06_Adjustable_Gear.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:44.44%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/697160/2024-03-11_5b2bc867d263e.jpg"></figure>A VERSION WITH CLEARANCE<ul><li>It may happen that main version will not be assembled due to small clearances. Actual clearance depends on many factors (flow, filament, printer condition)</li><li>Parts with the letter C in their name are parts that have increased clearance. These parts must be glued</li></ul>

TILT PHONE STAND - INDUSTRIAL

Office

MakerVerse Designs

A octopus sculpture which can hold any smartphone, tablet, etc or used just for decoration<ul><li>needs to print with supports (I used Tree support, threshold angle set to 20°)</li></ul>Have fun with it and leave a like or subscribe if you like it!If there are any suggestions for improvement, feel free to write a comment.

Octopus Sculpture + Smartphone mount

Curios

SkubOpMakrel

A simple mount for the most common Makita charger. Just remove the four rubber feet and press the charger down onto the pegs on the mount, simple as that. Can be mounted in all directions due to being press fit.&nbsp; Questions are welcome and please like, rate and share.

Makita charger wallmount

Tools

Printednest

All about this projects: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printednest.com/bird-feeder-4-0" rel="nofollow noopener">Birdfeeder 4.0 and Birdfeeder 4.5</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/463556/2024-01-13_eea23c9b49d5e.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Video assembly instructions:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_i_i1VTPBo"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c_i_i1VTPBo" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;!!! Information for the fine print:  This model does not need supports. Use our 3mf file. We put a large brim for better adhesion of the print. If you are using stl file, add at least a 40mm brim in your print setup. At the same time, it does not speed up printing to a higher speed than is set.  make sure the PEI sheet is properly cleaned and for better adhesion use a spray or whatever you are using !!!&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/463556/2024-01-24_ae27263cb617e.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/463556/2024-01-24_8f02661e257ef.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Update 28/1 - This model should not be a problem to print without support. Anyway, since we see that some of you have a problem printing this model, we are adding ready-made 3mf profiles with added supports. They are tree-like and set on critical spots.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/463556/2024-01-28_8fe77828efcd1.png"></figure>&nbsp;More info about on our <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/printednest" rel="nofollow noopener">Youtube Channel</a> facebook: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.facebook.com/printednest" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.facebook.com/printednest</a>Printednest Makers | 3d Print Group: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/printednest" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.facebook.com/groups/printednest</a>twitter: <a target="_blank" href="https://twitter.com/printednest" rel="nofollow noopener">https://twitter.com/printednest</a>instagram: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/printednest/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/printednest/</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Printednest Bird Feeder 4.5

Garden

jaminvanderberg

Built upon the Gridfinity Storage Box by Pred, this multi-box storage system allows effortless access to multiple storage boxes while maintaining their stackability. Additionally, the modular handle provides optional portability. &nbsp;The solution also includes optional mounting capabilities for wall installation using a French cleat, although this feature has not yet been tested. &nbsp;Technically, this storage system can be used with just about any kind of storage box due to the parametric design.&nbsp;The storage system is assembled using M3 button head screws and bolts. Most makers are likely to have M3 assortments readily available; however, for those who don't, the following kit was used during the construction: <a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/0gfEO0l" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/0gfEO0l</a>. This kit has ample screws for a 4-tall storage unit with plenty to spare. However, if you build multiple units, you may run start to run out of M3x6mm or M3x10mm screws and may want to pick up those sizes individually.&nbsp;<h2>What do I print?</h2>A basic storage unit requires:<ul><li>A left side panel and a right side for each box being stored</li><li>A back support plate for each box being stored, minus one. For example, if storing 4 boxes, you need 3 back support plates.</li><li>A top plate. I recommend the solid top plate with handle holes.</li><li>A bottom plate. I recommend the wireframe bottom plate.</li><li>2 feet (optional but recommended).</li></ul>Standard printing configurations should be suitable for all parts. No supports are required for any of the components.&nbsp;I printed all parts without a brim, but depending on your printer's reliability, you may find it beneficial to use a brim for added stability during printing.&nbsp;Note that almost all parts are printed with their external surface facing down on the print bed, emphasizing the importance of bed adhesion for a smooth surface finish. This also allows for the use of a patterned print bed for unique surface effects.&nbsp;<h4>Important - Multi-Level Side Panels</h4>Multi-level side panels allow you to print multiple side panels as a single, unified piece, reducing the number of components and screws needed. This design enhances overall stability and strength while utilizing slightly less filament (approximately 5g per level). Whenever possible, opt for multi-level side panels for increased efficiency.&nbsp;For general use, I suggest primarily printing the 2x side panels. I've included 3x and 4x options as alternatives, but they likely won't fit on most print beds.&nbsp;<h3>Additional Options</h3><h4>Feet</h4>While not technically required, feet are a valuable addition, especially when using the wireframe bottom. They cover the exposed hardware and help prevent scratching any surface the unit is placed on.&nbsp;For a soft, malleable foot, you can print it in TPU with 10% gyroid infill. PLA and PETG are suitable alternatives if TPU isn't available or preferred. &nbsp;Attach the feet to the bottom wireframe plate using M3x10mm screws and to the bottom solid plate using M3x15mm screws.<h4>Handle</h4>The handle is a great option for portability. To incorporate the handle, you will need to print:<ul><li>Top plate with handle holes</li><li>Handle</li><li>2 left handle mount</li><li>2 right handle mount</li></ul>The handle mounts are attached to the top plate using 8 M3x10mm screws. The handle itself requires 2 M3x30mm screws.The handle has undergone extensive testing with 4 loaded storage boxes, demonstrating considerable strength. However, I advise against using the handle with more than 4 boxes, considering that storage boxes can become quite heavy when fully loaded.<h4>French Cleat</h4>The option to mount the storage unit to the wall using a French cleat is available. However, as I haven't personally tested this feature, your input would be valuable. Please use caution when loading the French cleat mount with weight. While it should be quite strong, I haven't had an opportunity to fully test its strength.&nbsp;The French cleat mount is based on ¾" plywood (21/32", ~16.67mm). Please let me know if other sizes are required.&nbsp;Boxes full of hardware can get really heavy. You may want to consider using two French cleats. Alternatively, you can use the French cleat spacer to support the bottom against the wall, distribute the weight more evenly and reducing the strain on the mounting points.&nbsp;To utilize the French cleat, print the French cleat mount and attach it to the back. The French cleat mount is used in conjunction with the back support plates and is positioned behind them, without replacing them. Use M3x12mm screws in place of the M3x6mm screws typically used to secure the back support plates. You can use M4 flat-head screws to secure the unit to the cleat, if desired.The French cleat spacer is installed in exactly the same manner.<h4>Tip Prevention</h4>The back support plate offers the option of including tip prevention screw holes, which can be added based on user preference. These holes are not intended for wall mounting, as the back support plate is not designed for such a purpose due to its limited strength. Instead, they are intended to secure the unit to the wall and should only be used when the unit is placed on a stable surface. They functions similarly to the tip prevention mechanism commonly found in dressers. <h4>Top Wireframe Plate</h4>The wireframe top plate allows for approximately 25% less material usage. However, it does not support the use of a handle.Please refrain from using the plastic cross beams as a handle as they are not intended for this purpose.<h4>Solid Bottom Plate</h4>An optional solid bottom plate is available, although it's generally not required in most scenarios. Since the bottom isn't typically visible, the wireframe bottom plate should suffice for most purposes. However, if you prefer its aesthetic or need additional strength, the solid bottom is a viable option.&nbsp;The solid bottom is attached with M3x10mm screws if feet aren't included, or M3x15mm screws if feet are included. Please note that the solid bottom uses approximately 2.5 times as much material as the wireframe bottom.<h4>Middle Plate</h4>The middle plate is largely unnecessary. It isn't prominently visible when the storage unit is fully loaded. While it does offer added rigidity, it requires a significant amount of extra material and should not be necessary for most use cases. It is available for those who may find it useful, but it's not a strongly recommended component.&nbsp;An alternative wireframe option is also available, conserving approximately 25% of the material used.&nbsp;The middle plate is printed in two parts, the middle plate itself and the middle plate back support. The middle plate is mounted between two layers using M3x12mm screws, while the middle back plate is attached with M3x6mm screws.&nbsp;<h2>Assembly</h2>To begin assembly, start from the bottom and work your way up. Mount the left and right side panels to the bottom plate and optional feet using the appropriate-sized screws. Then, stack the side panels together using M3x6mm screws, ensuring proper orientation. Attach a back support plate between each level using M3x6mm screws. If you're using the French cleat mount, install it while fitting the back support plates.&nbsp;Installing the handle before attaching the top plate can simplify the process. Finally, secure the top plate using M3x10mm screws on the top and M3x6mm screws on the back.&nbsp;I found that installing the screws using just the bit, without the handle, worked well. The nut does most of the work, allowing you to tighten the screws sufficiently even without the extra leverage from the handle. This method can be particularly helpful for installing screws at awkward angles.&nbsp;Consider using a threadlocker on the screws, if available, for added security during assembly.&nbsp;<h2>Customizing with Parametric Design</h2>This model was created in FreeCAD using parametric design. This is done using the object ‘Parameters’ within the FreeCAD file. To adjust the Gridfinity configuration, change the parameters in the ‘Gridfinity’ section. For non-Gridfinity boxes, you can modify the box dimensions directly in the 'Box' section. You will first need to remove the formulas by pressing the = (equals) key and then pressing clear.&nbsp;If you need to modify the hardware dimensions, navigate to the 'Hardware' section. Keep in mind that a screw and nut depth greater than 2.5mm may not work well with the default 4mm floor thickness, which can be changed in the 'Secondary Parameters' section. I recommend avoiding changes to most of the other secondary parameters as they may have narrow operational limits and altering them could potentially break the model. It's best to refrain from modifying anything in the 'zCalculated' section as these calculations are essential for the model's support and altering them could lead to unintended consequences.&nbsp;Once you've determined the appropriate parameters, open the "Print Ready" folder, which contains the models pre-rotated for optimal print orientation. To export each part, click on the desired component, and select File > Export.&nbsp;<h2>Fostering Community and Modular Innovation</h2>The beauty of a modular design lies in its versatility, enabling individuals to create customized modules to suit their unique requirements.I've incorporated a range of modular options, but there's always room for more innovative ideas within our community. Let's collaborate and discover the endless potential of our collective creativity!&nbsp;

GridStack Modular Multi-Box Storage System [Parametric]

Gridfinity Stuff

Leon Fisher-Skipper

<h2>This Feature got implemented for P1 and X1 in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases/tag/v01.09.00.60" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuStudio Beta 1.9</a>. Please use this, as you can easily adapt the retraction length and turn the feature on and off as you please. A1 and A1 mini still have to use the download here.  </h2><h2>Description:</h2>TLDR: This mod allows you to use a lower flush multiplier without the color bleed that it would have with the default profile. &nbsp;Great <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/suFbfer1WhI?si=7mcjxLNhubW9WR1a" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a> by butter pocket prints explaining this change.&nbsp;<h2>How to use it:</h2><ol><li>Open the 3mf file and save the Nozzle Profiles of your Printer to your User Presets. It will tell you that the G-Code was changed, confirm with OK, as this is exactly how the profile works. The profile name has to be changed to save it.  </li><li>Now you need to adjust your purge settings! I would just set the multiplier to 0.5 on P1 and X1 and 0.65 on A1 and A1 mini. The values may now show red in the purge settings, but they will still work. </li></ol>!Dont use with Silk PLA!  !Confirm that you are running the newest Version of Bambu Slicer. Orca Slicer may work but is not tested!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Post from 14.09.2023 on Printables with the title “bambulab profile for up to 60% purge reduction” which has sadly since been deleted by prusa:&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Orginal Description:</h2>The biggest issue with The Bambulab printers is that during multicolor printing ridiculous amounts of purge (dubbed poop by some) are generated, when switching colors.(Example: <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k</a>)This has to be done to clear the Printhead of the old color and replace it with the new color.The Print head has a internal volume bellow the cutter of 110 mm3, meaning that at least 110 mm3 of filament has to be flushed and an additional amount to account for the transition when the old color mixes into the new color.Of these 110 mm3 in the hot end, only half get melted, as the rest stays in the cold part around the heat sink.Here comes a neat trick I found: Before cutting, the unmelted part can get pulled up so that it can be fed back into the AMS. When the new filament is feed into the hotend, it gets pushed in an additional 20mm.This means that for every filament change 50mm3 of filament is saved.As a result much less purge volume is required.When the print ends, the filament also gets pushed out 20 mm, to also save filament here.The filament gets pushed out another 20mm during purging when starting the print too, to account for the push-back when the print ends.   The saving results can be seen in the first picture.I used this model (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files </a>) by Joey_466945 and printed it once with the „Save filament Profile“ and once with the normal on. The flush Volumes have to be set to 0 for this test! Each line on the strips corresponds to 100 mm3. It’s clearly visible that each transition is shifted by 50mm3.For advantageous color combinations like blue and red these 50mm3 savings correspond to a very high saving percentage. Combinations which have a lot of color bleed like white to black need a lot of purging still, so the percentage saved is much less.I printed two benchies for comparison (the left one is the saving Profil) and the quality stayed the same, despite the flush volumes being reduced by 50mm3. The benchy with my profile generated 60% less purge.Both prints used a prime tower though which stayed the same size.  The Profile only changes 8 lines of code in the G-Code.I tested thousands of filament changes and had no issues. Tests have been done on X1C, P1P, P1S and A1 mini. Edit: Silk PLA and Bambu support material should not be used with this profile. Tests by Bambulab indicate problems.   &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;—————————————————————————————————————————————————UPDATE 01.02.2024: I made a mistake with the A1 and A1 mini profiles. Retraction was now lowered and should improve reliability. Max. savings with A1 and A1 mini is now 33% and the net savings per filament change is 36 mm3. P1 and X1 still have a max saving of 45% and a net saving of 50 mm3. This is due to the changed geometry of the hotend, because the hot zone is a bit longer. This reduction is more on the conservative side, it is probably possible to get away with more savings, but I can’t test it yet as I don’t have a A1 or mini. &nbsp;UPDATE 25.01.2024: Bambulab updated the A1 and A1 mini print profiles, so I also updated them to the current version.I have also heard back from Bambulab and they are testing the feature. They have run into problems with Silk PLA though, so it seems it works not with all filaments perfectly. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1929892454" rel="nofollow noopener">@EyemJoe</a> also mentioned problems with Support filament. If you use these two filaments be careful. &nbsp;UPDATE 11.01.2024: I changed the start G-Code as on some printers the Load Line was incomplete on some printers.Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Cosquilla_523214" rel="nofollow noopener">@Cosquilla_523214</a> for pointing me to the issues and suggesting a fix. I also changed the title, as the calculated maximum saving is 45% for this method and not 60% as the title stated before. The 60% was what I observed on my testprint, but this was with a small quality reduction. 45% is without a quality reduction. &nbsp;I have also found out that Bill from 3D chameleon also was using retractions to reduce waste on the Bambu Printers a couple of months before me. I independently came up with this, but his hardware based solution is also very interesting. The big difference is, that my profile doesn’t require any hardware changes. If you are interested in multi color printing, his Chameleon is very interesting and was one of the smartest and best solutions before the Bambu AMS. It also makes Multi-color printing possible on any printer. If you are interested visit his <a target="_blank" href="https://www.3dchameleon.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Website</a>, where he will also soon launch the MK4 version. &nbsp;UPDATE 18.12.2023: Now Profiles for all Bambu Printers and all Nozzles including A1, A1 mini and X1E.Thanks for @rc2k7_1528233, @Sven and @AustinWolt_1104655 for testing the A1 mini Profile.@AustinWolt_1104655 also made a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgqqTbFd3k" rel="nofollow noopener">Video</a> explaining how to use the Profiles.&nbsp;UPDATE 12.12.2023: I added profiles for all nozzle sizes and Printers including the P1P, P1S, X1C and one experimental profile for the A1 mini.All the profiles are saved in the same file. Save those you need to your User Presets.I also slightly updated the documentation in the code to make it more clear.&nbsp;UPDATE 20.09.2023: G-Code was modified so that the calculated amounts of waste from Bambu Studio are accurate. Before there was a small discrepancy.I also wrote the G-Code down below with instructions how to use the settings without the download.—————————————————————————————————————————————————  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To use the changes without the download do the following:To use these changes go into Printer Profil and select one of the Profiles you want to change. If you dont use any custom profiles, just use the standard, in my case “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 Nozzle” for the 0.4 Nozzle. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/e29a19a0-b85b-4006-869e-9fe5754d62ca/thumbs/cover/800x460/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil.webp">Then go into “Machine G-Code” and edit the G-Code in 3 of the text fields like described below. Save the changes afterwards.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/3ecd6635-2875-4137-a41c-7cb7eac954d2/thumbs/cover/800x459/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil2.webp">&nbsp;Changes to the g-code are marked bold in the PDF documentation.