rano.daoud

Panthor

This is adaptation of the tuned mechanical planetarium by HackerJack42: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632441" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632441</a>The original design is by Zippitybamba: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613061" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613061</a>I've taken this design and laid it out on the plates to help with organization while building. I've also utilized Bambu Lab's “color paint” feature for the planets. Saturn has been adapted to also take advantage of the paint feature on the rings. &nbsp;Bill of materials:6 - M3x10 self tapping screws: to attach the base floor and support bracket.3 - M3x10 hex head screws and nuts: to attach the Main axle to the base housing.7 - M3x10 Hex button head cap screws: to use as set screws for each planetary arm.4 - Rubber cabinet bumpers as feet for the bottom.&nbsp;The 17 plates are mostly laid out in order of construction. You will need to keep track of components like planetary arms and planetary pegs, but they are generally largest for the furthest planets. Zippitybamba has posted some videos for construction, and Hackerjack42 has a great chart showing the layout of all gears, idler arms, and pegs. Base construction:<ol><li>Print the first 3 plates (base components 1, 2, and 3) and plate 5 (finger wheel & Saturn gears) will allow the construction of the base. </li><li>To assemble the base, first attach the main axle to the base housing using the hex head screws and nuts.</li><li>Flip over the base housing and place the base drive gear in the larger cavity. Insert and hold the Mercury axle into the main axle to align the base drive gear properly.</li><li>Place the fingerwheel in the smaller cavity opening. Insert the fingerwheel axle into the fingerwheel gear. Flip the finger wheel support bracket upside down and align the hole with the finger wheel axle cutout. Insert the finger wheel axle through the support bracket and into the finger wheel axle cutout. Ensure the finger wheel gear and the base drive gear mesh properly.</li><li>While holding this entire thing upside down, carefully install the base floor, ensuring the finger wheel axle goes into it's guide hole as does the Mercury axle. First insert the screws through the base floor into the support bracket. Then install the other 4 screws.</li><li>Flip it over and ensure that the finger wheel can rotate and note that the Mercury axle rotates. If the finger wheel is too tight, loosen the single screw by the finger wheel that is not attaching the support bracket.</li><li>Attach the rubber feet to the bottom.</li></ol>Planetary Gears Installation:I utilized the chart that HackerJack42 created for installation. Note in the corner it shows the positioning of the idler arms in each tof the 3 possible locations.I found that for me , to get the next gear (or set of gears) to mesh properly, was to slide the whole already installed gear collection up the main axle, slip the new on into position at an angle to get the herringbone teeth to mesh, then slide the collection back down onto the main axle. The plates are laid out for each planetary set of gears.Install a set screw into each planetary arm before placing the planetary arm and subsequent gears in place. The screws are a very tight fit. Get the set screw fully threaded, then back it out so you can adjust the planetary arm upon completion of construction.I also found that there was a little bit of give in the hex interface that had planetary arms on the ring. I placed a very thin piece of sticky tack in each interface, only because I didn't want to risk glue coming in contact with something that is supposed to move.Each planetary peg needed to be shaved and sanded down to allow for the planet to be installed. I did glue my planet hemispheres together while on their respective peg.When installing the Moon gear, the Earth peg is all that is needed to hold into against the calendar gear. Ensure that the moon planetary arm sits above the calendar hash marks so that it can spin freely.After placing the Mercury Cap on top, the Sun peg (longest peg) slides all the way through the main axle down to the base floor.&nbsp;The last plate contains all the planets as a single color if you don't want to use the AMS for multi-color printing.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Mechanical Planetarium (Orrery)

Education

cale.lebl

<div><h1>Summary</h1><div>Magic Portal Tree - You go through it to get to other places.3 Version: One without the portal and one with the portal pre-inserted and one with no cattails. All version should print support free. The separate portal insert will need supports.If you are going to try this on a FDM printer with the cattails I suggest checking out our separate cattails file as a test: <a href="/thing:4189496" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189496</a>Update 1: Added new version of portal insert with thicker center.Artist: Isaac Bell</div></div>

Magic Portal Tree - Support Free

Terrain

dakjones82

If you're a cat person then you get it! Add some character to your holiday decorations this year.

Kitty Cat Christmas Door Decoration

For wife

Ciuf_Ciuf

<h2>General description</h2>After the great success of the drainage project, I am proposing a simpler and more intuitive version, especially for new users and beginners who are approaching the world of multicolor.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/54909#profileId-56456" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/54909#profileId-56456</a>&nbsp;The basic purpose is always to minimize purging material as much as possible to save on color changes and drastically reduce the amount of discarded materialI have decided to update the model and make it more user-friendlyThe basic idea was to make it a standard Bambulab Calibration, similar to the K calibrationSo, lines with numbers to instantly identify which value is the most accurate to assign to the purging of the respective materialBeing a test, it must be as economical as possible, so a test strip requires only 2 grams&nbsp;I'm leaving you the video of a guy who explains in detail how to use this type of calibrationI thank him for considering my project for the creation of a video on YouTube, and I'm pleased that I've shared his video<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP3CwBX6A4I"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FP3CwBX6A4I" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3> </h3><h3>Pre-print Procedure</h3>*Edit 03-01-2024*&nbsp;From one of the various print profiles you download, you'll need to set the color combination you desire<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:47.04%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_36c2f25737bbb.png"></figure>In my case, I'm calibrating these purge combinations, and the model will result like this<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_e5017ae8f46d08.png"></figure>If you want to change the color combination, simply use a different type of filament<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.2%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_a174ecda4566d.png"></figure>and the print profile will adapt to the combination you have set, as in this case<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_f1abfb2fe5f0a8.png"></figure>The model will update in real-time, allowing you to see immediately which color you are changingI've implemented additional print profiles to significantly streamline the procedure.While the process can be fast for those with a single AMS, it might be quite lengthy for those with multiple using the previous print profiles.With these new print profiles, there is also increased compatibility for the A1 Mini model.&nbsp;The idea of implementing the print profiles in this new way was suggested by Michael when he uploaded his print profile for the V1 model. I'll leave you the link to his Makerword channel (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2954682459" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/2954682459</a>)&nbsp;As on the previous model, it is necessary to reduce the purging material to allow us to calculate the material quantity adequately.The only significant difference is that this time we set all purging quantities to 0On the dual-object print profile, you can also do it manually.However, on the other print profiles, if you want to expedite the process, you can set the multiplier to 0, instantly reducing the purge to 0<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.51%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_f161c5ce7c0868.png"></figure>Now you can start the printing process&nbsp;Note: Do not touch any other parameters I've set, or the colors won't be printed in the correct order<h3>Calibration reading</h3>After completing the print, for calibrating the K factor, we need to read and determine the most accurate value to set as the purging quantityWhat you will find in front of you will be this<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_02e09355d1abf8.jpg"></figure>As you can see inside the two green rectangles, that is the exact moment when the material is purged, and the next color takes over.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.78%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_617da72c674e78.jpg"></figure>At this point, all that's left is to identify the correct value and set the purging quantity for that specific color changeFor these tests, it's highlighted that 150mm^3 of material is required to perform the color change<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.33%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_e9817c7179a71.jpg"></figure>In this specific case, the quantity is identical for both color changes, but for other combinations, it may varyAs you can see, the difference between the default values of Bambustudio and the ones just found is significantly lower.This allows us to reduce material waste and significantly cut down on print times, decreasing the time the printer takes to change the filament<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.41%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_a67e103190684.png"><figcaption>BEFORE</figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_ab83cab72d7d18.png"><figcaption>AFTER</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration V2

Test

The Printsmith

Introducing the "Cosy Christmas Lodge" 3D Model:&nbsp;Embrace the holiday spirit with my latest 3D model, the Cosy Christmas Lodge. Designed with simplicity and holiday season warmth in mind, this miniature lodge brings a touch of festive charm to your space.&nbsp;Printed flat for easy assembly, the Cosy Christmas Lodge maximizes the efficiency of your bambu AMS unit, reducing filament purges and waste. Once assembled, this charming lodge transforms into a delightful centerpiece that captures the essence of a snug winter retreat.&nbsp;Enhance the cozy atmosphere by placing an LED tealight or string lights inside the lodge, turning it into a subtle lamp that radiates the warmth of the season. Perfect for both beginners and experienced 3D printing enthusiasts, the Cosy Christmas Lodge is a versatile and heart warming addition to your holiday decor. Please check out my page for my other original designs, and don't forget to follow for more original creations soon!&nbsp;&nbsp;*Edit: all potential fold issues have been fixed including part 6 which had dropped to the build plate. Folding joints are separate entities in case anyone needs to adjust thickness. Testing with Bambu Basic PLA and Matte PLA and folds great.

Bambu Labs inspired 'Cosy Christmas Lodge'

Gifts

fay3dlab

This is my entry to the flying object competition.. So i have been brainstorming of a design i can make for the competition and i knew i will make a suspended model for it.. But to make it different than my usual suspended model i need to add another element.. that's where the tensegrity comes in.. Tensegrity is basically a model that is floating solely by the tension integrity from the weight of the model itself.. in other words.. the X-wing will look like its floating and only supported by the suspended strings.. Like all my suspended model.. it will be printed in one piece except for the 4 back thruster engine.. that needs to be installed after print.. Once printed.. you need to be very careful when getting it off the bedplate since unlike other suspended model.. this one is held by very little strings.. the wings are held by 10 strings in total..&nbsp;I have also prep the model so that you can easily paint parts for multicolor prints.. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/378390/2023-12-02_24f73bb26f471.png"> I've made the model small in size cause of the weight of the x-wing that the strings will have to bear.. and so that our A1 mini owners can join in the fun of printing this suspended tensegrity modelOne important thing to remember is to set the wall generator to arachne from classic.. this will make the slicer print the strings..I hope you guys have fun printing this suspended tie adv fighter

Suspended Tensegrity X-Wing

Geek stuff

jpedersen.bc