raneyeden

ABDELat

All gridfinity basic bins, starting with 1x1x1 up to 6x6x12. Each file includes all heights from 0 (lid) to 12 (87.55 mm).&nbsp;These bins don&#39;t have magnet/screw holes. As long they are used for Drawers or non-moving places you don&#39;t need them.<ul><li>no labeling tab</li><li>labeling tab on the left side</li><li>labeling tab on the right side</li></ul>The generated 3mf-files are all based on this <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/kennetek/gridfinity-rebuilt-openscad" rel="nofollow noopener">openSCAD rebuild</a>. I&#39;m using them a lot, they work as intended, easy to print.I&#39;ve include all printable profiles. The 6x6 version isn&#39;t currently printable, so there is no printable file. The 3MF-Version of each combination can also be downloaded in the raw-model-files tab.<h4>Bin Sizes in mm</h4>for all that don&#39;t want to calculate the sizes:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000047599/design/760bc579-31a2-4876-9f86-9abd4176c954.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000047599/design/44efbb41-6eed-494c-bd99-429ecba1642e.png">&nbsp;If you&#39;re looking for an easy to print grid, i recommend <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/430144-gridfinity-base-with-snap-connectors" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity base with snap connectors</a>. If you have an Ikea ALEX drawer, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/28581" rel="nofollow noopener">here you`ll get all needed parts (inkl. spacer)</a>.&nbsp;Other Tools used:All files are generated with the help of a modded version of <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/OutwardBuckle/OpenSCAD-Bulk-Export" rel="nofollow noopener">OpenSCAD-Bulk-Export</a>. Check out this git if your interested in bulk-exporting from OpenSCAD&nbsp;Printing:Print it in any material you like. For most applications PLA is good enough. The slicer recommends a brim. With a bit of glue or the textured PEI sheet it doesn&#39;t move.The 6x6 can`t be printed in one piece! Use the Slicer to split it as you like.I´ve in also included print-profiles for all versions.&nbsp;Additional Tools and Helpers<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/models/208796" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Height ruler - slim Edition</a>: Helps you to find the correct bin height.</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/476336" rel="nofollow noopener">AIO parametric Gridfinty Project</a>: Generate you own gridfinity bin.</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28581" rel="nofollow noopener">Slim Gridfinity Base for Ikea Alex:</a> Perfectly fitting grid for Ikea Alex Drawer</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Parametric Model Maker</h3>I&#39;ve made a SCAD Version to work with the new <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/parametricModelMaker" rel="nofollow noopener">Parametric Model Maker</a>. Just download the “Makerworld.scad” (from Raw Files) and use it there. In the Customize Section, you can change most parameters the get the desired Bin you want. Use the button right next to do Download or <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/parametricModelMaker?designId=47599&amp;from=model_page&amp;scadUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fmakerworld.bblmw.com%2Fmakerworld%2Fmodel%2FUSd2da6c53f14d3c%2Fmsfile%2F2024-04-16_1fd4308bde644.scad&amp;type=user" rel="nofollow noopener">use this link.</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000047599/design/2024-05-10_09f49611aee0f.webp"><figcaption>Quick preview of the parametric model maker</figcaption></figure><h3>How to download the RAW files</h3>Since the last UI change the download option is a bit hidden. This is the current way to download the RAW files or the File for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/parametricModelMaker" rel="nofollow noopener">Parametric Model Maker</a>.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000047599/design/2024-05-03_e07cda6ec065f.jpg"></figure><h3>Share your makes and support me</h3>If you like my work, give it a 🚀 boost 🚀 (the button is right below the Download). You can <a target="_blank" href="https://brickbank.app/support/" rel="nofollow noopener">support me here</a>, via <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/brickbankapp" rel="nofollow noopener">Ko-Fi</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/brickbankAPP" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>. Please leave a comment or share your makes 😁.  I appreciate your support! If your interested in selling the printed models DM me.&nbsp;Updates:2024-02-04: in the raw files section you can find premade zip-files wiht all generated boxes for each size, starting with 01x01x00 up to 12x12x12. This should help to create any box combination you like. Note: not all files can be printed as one piece! All zip files together are ~ 1.25GB i recommend to download them one by one!

Ultimate Gridfinity Bins Collection + Parametric

Gridfinity

Sevro

Overview.A Ring Lamp that can be changed to different situations. I designed base with various panels which can adapt to various style and occasion. You can simply change color of it as well as pattern on it, by changing color of diffuser and changing different panels.WARNINGSLed strips can emits some heat depends on what type of led you and voltage you use. In my case temperature of Main Ring achieve 60 °C . Due to this I recommend use filament that can resist that temperature especially for Main Ring. I tested ASA and it works well. Other high temperature filaments should work too (ABS, PETG but I didn&#39;t test it) PLA in this case can bend over time especially if you use heavy panel like budha.So in summary I tested and recommend :Main Ring - ASABase, Diffuser - PLAPanels- ASA ( PLA is possible but can bend )If you want change panel, always wait to cool down the ring lamp, otherwise PLA cover can bend during take off.&nbsp;Two Versions.There are two versions of Ring LampV1  - version 1 - First version of Ring Lamp. It is designed for 8 mm LED stripe.V2  - version 2 - Second version of Ring Lamp. It is designed for both 8mm and 12 mm LED stripes. I enlarged each piece by 110% so it now better takes advantage of bed size of the Bambu Lab printers.&nbsp;In the meantime, some designers created their own fronts for version 1. If you want to use fronts from other designers, make sure they are the right size. If they are too small, simply enlarge them to 110% in the X and Y axis as in the image below.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 38.09%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/2024-03-28_867e2b9fbfc93.png"></figure>&nbsp;Electric parts you need.The easiest way is to buy electrical parts designed specifically for a ring light. Provides easy installation without the need for soldering.It is available on Amazon <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3zAnd6c" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3zAnd6c</a>It works with V1 and V2. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 37.08%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/2024-06-30_880ecf419c351.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;You can also search for each part separately. You will need<ul><li>led stripe - best are LED COB </li><li>charger for LED strip</li><li>dc connector - I used 2.1/5,5 mm , the diameter of the mounting hole is 11.5 mm</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 21.19%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/8867176f-a9e4-4554-8087-7b1fd3a6b430.webp"></figure><ul><li>OFF-ON SWITCH</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 18.17%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/5cf1687e-913a-4186-92f2-75d8d2bac909.png"></figure>&nbsp;Printed PartsMain Ring, Base and Panels can be printed in draft mode 0.28-0.30 mm layer height with no issue.Diffuser should be printed with 0.2 mm layer height.<ol><li>After print, glue led strip to inner side of Main Ring</li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 539.361px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/55f0a8a9-5b68-4a7a-b60e-def1c0cf337a.webp"></figure>Start from hole on bottom side<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 537.429px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/8f453fdd-01d6-476e-baaa-f03826eac490.webp"></figure>2. Put Main Ring into base. It should fit tight without glue.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width: 538.864px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/f03a229b-e68e-4835-9d5f-37f66a2677d0.webp"></figure>3. Insert the electric part into the base and connect them by soldering<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 535.014px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/2e73757c-be70-46f0-8fbb-ebc700b2e62a.webp"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 531.08px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/75ca1515-ddbf-47b2-ab0d-34d6c3b795b9.webp"></figure>4. Insert Diffuser to Main Ring”. The Main Ring has a groove into which the Diffuser should be inserted and sit steadily. The flat side to the back.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 529.148px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/dd5e9b3f-84e4-47dc-8964-6b93b4f6ee46.webp"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 527.23px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/3fc14977-a473-4279-b0d1-25f667c08fba.webp"></figure>5. Insert Panel into Main ring. The Panel has cuts at the bottom to avoid cutting the cables<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 531.08px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/f414f9b5-fc71-4e83-af57-faf01b92199e.webp"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 529.148px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000163227/design/d3004065-f61c-4175-b595-6235c7b8ead8.webp"></figure>&nbsp;If you any question or suggestion write to me&nbsp;Have fun

Ring Lamp with replaceable panels

Lighting

Clint’s Prints 3D

This prints in place in one piece without any needed supports. Just take it off your print bed, insert a JoyCon and you're ready to play!This will accommodate both the left and right JoyCon.This is v2.0 that uses a chamfer on the bottom rather than a fillet from v1.0 to improve printability.

JoyCon Controller Grip v2.0

Nintendo Switch

bubak.games

Baby pouch holder

Finley

Evo 3D

Back seat drink and food holder&nbsp;Everything for kids :)

Back seat drink and food holder

Automotive

vajcnerd

Print the model from PLA, the parts are connected with pins and secured with glue. Printing without supports! The size of the model can be changed as needed. Assemble the chassis according to the photo.pin tolerance fix, added more clearance /ver 2024new stl version contains changes. Pin 5mm reduced to 4.9mm, the body has a bulge for better fit.<h3>It will be better if you use a verified profile or make a profile yourself</h3><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:47.85%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586788/2024-01-05_749d04bed573c8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:48.12%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586788/2023-12-27_f9e39208f9d118.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:48.4%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586788/2023-12-27_09c52d878271a8.png"></figure>

Tesla Cybertruck with suspension, without supports

Tesla

kSHIN_x

Loose Fit!&nbsp;A simple Container for Ikea Skadis BoardHeight: 98mm Width: 79mm Depth: 41mmParameter:<ul><li>0.2 mm layer height</li><li>supports needed</li></ul>

Ikea Skadis Container

Skadis

Martin Kozak

<h3>Print instructions for frame</h3>To achieve wider range of movement, I had to modify 4 pieces of frame parts. Don't forget to print them. Rest of the frame parts are the same as the original DUMMY 13. It is recommended to print frame from PETG.<h3>Print instructions for armor</h3><ul><li>0.2 mm, 3 perimeters</li><li>Parts are pre-oriented to the printbed.</li><li>Some armor parts require supports. Namely: armor_helmet.stl, armor_hip_left.stl, armor_hip_right.stl, armor_chest.stl, armor_knee_left.stl, armor_knee_right.stl, armor_visor.stl</li><li>For your convenience, use provided 3mf files with all the necessary parts and settings for Bambu</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3>For assembly, please follow <a target="_blank" href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/4J47inFht7c7vTq69" rel="nofollow noopener">BUILD GUIDE</a>. Some steps are slightly different from the original. Note: kneepads might use a drop of glue to hold better in place.

Medieval full plate armor for DUMMY 13

Medieval 

bensbigolbeard

<h2>An Icosahedron made of bevel gears.</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461626/2023-10-04_58621e1768a8e.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461626/2024-01-27_56dec3bf3a3588.gif"></figure><h3>Text Assembly Instructions:</h3>Some folks have had trouble following the video above (sry, it's not as clear as I'd hoped), so here are some alternate instructions. The image shows the process, working from top left to bottom right.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461626/2023-10-22_97301cb6256.png"></figure>Image 1<ul><li>The first image above shows two large gears attached to the core, with one small gear in between them.</li><li>Point the larger gears' pointed teeth straight up (i just took the pin out on the opposite side, so it could sit flat for the pic). These points are indicated in red in the image.</li><li>Looking at the small gear, locate the three sides of the small triangle on the back and make sure that the insets (indicated with red “V”s in the image) are angled to accept the larger gears' pointed teeth.</li><li>You should then be able to add the next large gear with the point up, like you see in the first image.</li></ul>Image 2<ul><li>The second image shows the model flipped over 180 degrees, sitting on flat of the small gear that was just on top</li><li>Stick on the last large gear to the pin pointed up (it can be in any orientation at first)</li></ul>Image 3<ul><li>Find an empty gear slot and point it upwards.</li><li>Orient the large gears so the points are now pointing up around the empty small gear slot, similar to their orientation in the first image.</li><li>Pop in the small gear, with those triangle corner inset areas accepting the large gears' points</li></ul>Image 4<ul><li>repeat the previous step until all of the empty small-gear slots are file</li></ul>That should leave you with everything in the correct arrangement! The pins will fully seat after the initial turns, so you might hear them pop into place. If you still encounter issues, I'm active in the comments and would be happy to help troubleshoot.&nbsp;Background: I love <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/245028-three-cube-gears" rel="nofollow noopener">this gear cube</a> and it made me want to explore how to apply that approach to other platonic solids. For some stupid reason I picked the Icosahedron and the additional geometric complexity kicked my butt days. It would have probably been easier if I could math good, but that's not the case… I still prefer how much the gear cube deforms so significantly in it's intermediate states, but the icosahedron is still a satisfying fidget. I might explore some alternative ways to break up the shape to introduce some more deformation, while retaining the smooth gearing. Printing notes:<ul><li>If the gears begin to get loose, replacing the pins with newly printed ones will likely tighten it right up.</li><li>To that end, printing the pins in a more friction resistant material and adding a bit of grease/lubrication can extend their life</li></ul>Print profile updates (for the ones I've uploaded): 10/8/23:<ul><li>Print order changed to outer/inner/infill for better dimensional accuracy</li><li>Brim added to pins for improved bed adhesion for most plate types</li><li>New pins only profile, in case you still have bed adhesion issues or need a fresh set, if the originals wear out</li></ul>10/22/23:<ul><li>I updated the stand-alone STL and 3mf files to include the brim and orientation tweaks from the previous update</li></ul>

Icosahedron Gears Fidget Toy

Fidget

svest1466

100mm flat Goonies coaster. 0.16 mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill. Orient face down for best quality.

Goonies coaster

Drink Coasters

tooling_lee

Designed a simple indicator for the dishwasher. Uses (4) 16mmx2mm magnets or sticky pads to adhere to the dishwasher.

Dishwasher Status Indicator Dirty / Clean

Household

OldSpice3d

Update 2 with Print profile : New version added called 1 layer: - 1 single layer for all colors, perfect for PEI or engineering plate - New box adapted to the 1-layer version with reinforced thickness to avoid too much flexibility of the back plate. - Also an addition of a 1-layer version that adapts to the original boxThis new 1-layer version features an insert that fits into the box, so there's no need for glue, but it can still be removed.&nbsp;Update: now middle back plate with hole, .3mf updated too :)&nbsp;Everything is already set up properly in .3MF&nbsp;I added some light cover for the back when light go through seams, it's in “dowload raw model files” button and select original_V1.zip&nbsp;But for people having issues with light through seams, i think black cover tapes could be better than pla printed parts&nbsp;Tell me in section comments what can i improve :) &nbsp;Enjoy!

Harley Davidson LED logo lamp

Signs

izegod

My dog “attacked” me while we were out for a walk and ripped open one of my pockets. Luckily i had some TPU filament which is the exact color of my winterjacket so i made this quick tpu patch to sew on that area :D&nbsp;I've printed this relativ quickly at a resolution of 0.2mm and 60mm/s print speed so the quality isn't perfect but good enough for my jacket.Print temperature was 235°C with a bed temperature of 50°C, printing took around 2 ½ hours.The Filament i used was 3DFILS eFil 90A Orange.

Marvel Hydra TPU Patch ~100x87mm

Clothing

gaugo87

Lithophane generated with my github project : <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/gaugo87/PIXEstL" rel="nofollow noopener">https://github.com/gaugo87/PIXEstL</a>&nbsp;

Lithophane Marvel

Marvel

Bambu Lab

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000014265/design/2023-09-19_8d08d601f168.png"></figure>Let&#39;s start a marble race with friends! This marble run features a series of elements including elevator, starting line, randomized dividers, elevated track, large funnel, spiral, and loop section. It allows competition of multiple marbles, with each segment introducing an element of unpredictability. The excitement continues all the way to the end!&nbsp;Recommended filaments: Bambu PLA series, PLA Basic is recomended for more smooth track<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament?gf_60645=279355719795" rel="nofollow noopener">https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament</a>Hardware Kit: Marble Run Components Kit-003<a target="_blank" href="http://store.bambulab.com/products/marble-run-components-kit-003" rel="nofollow noopener">http://store.bambulab.com/products/marble-run-components-kit-003</a>&nbsp;Please make sure you clean the build plate before printing and/or applying glue to prevent print failures.&nbsp;Follow the video tutorial step by step to print and assemble your build. <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/8_Su9jdzgNA"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8_Su9jdzgNA" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Marble Run 003

Toys

FriphiFreak

Nice daily pill box with 7 compartments. Two parts which snap together. Best to print with PLA.&nbsp;2023-10-30 Added a smaller pillbox which easily fits in my 5-th pocket.2023-11-01 Added a bigger pillbox with plenty of room for more pills.&nbsp;These are the current sizes:<ul><li>D74H16ENG is the larger Version (diameter 74mm, height 16mm, english weekdays)</li><li>D48H14ENG is the smaller Version (diameter 48mm, height 14mm, english weekdays)</li><li>D80H32ENG is the bigger Version (diameter 80mm, height 32mm, english weekdays)</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Handy Daily Pill box V3 with Weekdays (ENG)

Practical

dreed10

My rendition of the Commodore Computers logo in a LED lightbox lamp. Can be hung on a wall or sit on a table. Choose your preferred LED lights and method for installing them but I went for pure white LEDs adhered to the back plate and not on the inside walls.

Commodore Computers Lightbox LED Light

Retro

Star Wars logo led lightbox&nbsp;Everything properly setup in .3mf files&nbsp;Enjoy :D

Star Wars Lightbox LED Lamp

Star Wars

JDJDJD

<h2><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/693332/2023-10-20_f597d805fa3e9.gif"></h2>The TopProp is very stable and thoughtfully designed to prop your glass lid open for venting.&nbsp;Venting is recommended by Bambu Lab in many situations, for example when using PLA on the Textured PEI plate and Smooth PEI plate.&nbsp;The TopProp provides 30 inches of venting across the top of your machine.&nbsp;Featuring a stylish design with the perfect angles for supporting your glass top, TopProp also includes a handy magnetized hanger making use easy, quick and enjoyable.&nbsp;<ul><li>No Brims</li><li>No Overhangs</li><li>No Supports</li></ul><h3> </h3><h3>Magnets:</h3>Magnets can be easily pressed into place. Several magnet diameters are supported and can be up to 7mm in height.&nbsp;<ul><li>10mm diameter magnets</li><li>8mm diameter magnets</li><li>6mm diameter magnets</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Print Orientation Requirements:</h3><ul><li>TopProp: Side on bed</li><li>TopProp Hanger: Large flat side on bed</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Tips:</h3><ul><li>The side of the machine has some internal metal components that work with the magnets. The best locations on the sides are near the front and back corners (see image examples). However, if you want your TopProp even more secure you can simply use a small loop of gift wrapping tape on the backside of the hanger in conjunction with the magnets. It’s best to install the tape with the open ends of the looped tape facing up and down (vs side to side). This prevents the tape from rolling.</li><li>Magnets can be stacked up to 7mm in height for added strength.</li><li>I don't set my AMS on top of my machine, instead I use a shelf above my printer. Extra weight on top raises the center of gravity and can create a swaying effect. As such, this is designed around no AMS on top. It's also possible to print two TopProps and use them on the right and left corners - they fit there, too.</li></ul>

TopProp - Lid Lifter Vent For Glass Top

Bambu

dangles_

VERSION 2Changes made to the main design and have been confirmed to be sturdier and easier to get the blade in. Old versions have been removed and print profiles for main model and shorter model have been added. Version 2 also includes a “push stick” in the profile to help safely install the blade. &nbsp;About the ModelCuter that makes cutting those annoying sheets of Christmas gift paper rolls smoother and cleaner. &nbsp;PartsDesign is based around a #11 Hobby Blade. Packs of a lot of these can be found on amazon for very cheap. &nbsp;AssemblyOnce printed and blades have been acquired, you can *carefully* slide a blade into the slot. Using the printed “push stick” to push the blade further in. The lower hole is designed to allow you to use a small screwdriver to pull the blade down into place (as well as take it out).