orther

vulcan.lucky

soccer trophy i designed for my soccer team

soccer trophy

Trophies

Mr.Rod

NEW! STL Models added with improved strength and ease of installation (You can find them inside STL Folder of this project, “OEM ALL in ONE Stronger and Improved Main Structure V2” and “OEM ALL in ONE Improved Front Plate V2”&nbsp;Remember any ideas or job offers at <a href="mailto:rodams42@outlook.com" rel="nofollow">rodams42@outlook.com</a> :). Now let´s get to these.&nbsp;INDEX:1- Multipurpouse device description.2- All the possibilities available with this device (Build Plates Descriptions).3- Installing Manual.<ol><li>MULTIPURPOSE DEVICE DESCRIPTION:</li></ol>So this is the device i came up for the Bambu Lab Car Interior Design contest. At first i knew that making a phone support device for the car was about to be one of the most demanded and uploaded things on this contest, so instead of uploading a smartphone support for a single purpose which by the way is something that is already done by lot of people I thought about making an universal multipurpose phone support so it can be used in every single car and with every single smartphone out there, so it wasn´t just about creating a multipurpose hitches so the ALL in ONE phone support can be used and adapted to every single thinkable part inside any car out there, there´s even more, we need to think that there´s a lot of smartphones out there each one with it´s own size and with it´s own shape, so this is something also that needed to be thinked about when it comes to the design of the ALL in ONE support.&nbsp;So again, this is not a revolutionary idea and in my oppinion let´s be fair, to me this is not a winning 3D model (cause this is not something revolutionary in my opinion) but this contest can give a good promotion to this project, a project that it´s still not ended for a reason i´ll explain later. So, the best thing about this is that i´ve shared the STL model of the hitch used in all the supports shown in this project, this is mainly for one reason, even though i tried to create the most combinations i could think of for these phone support, as i said previously there´s a whole jungle of possibilities when it comes to how different each single car can be compared to the rest. So i can guess that some of the supports that i´ve providen inside this project won´t be the best solution for some cars , so that´s why this is an “open” project (which is something that i didn´t allowed in some of my previous uploaded projects in MakerWorld, but this time there´s a good reason) so the idea here is that everyone can add his own adaptations and creations using the provided hitch.&nbsp;So when it comes to features of this phone support we can find that there are no bolts or extension springs needed for the top handler, all the force needed to support the phone and keep it inside the structure is just a pair of helical spring coils which by the way are entirely made by the own printer with plastic, so no components needed to be buyed. Appart from that nothing special can be said about this phone support except that once everything is mounted this is a plug and play device.&nbsp;Some reccomendations. I´ve printed this device with PLA just for showcasing purposes, but remember if this device is about to be used for long periods of time and your car constantly sleeps on the street and get´s exposed to high temperatures it´s highly reccomended to print everything with BambuLab ASA or ABS filaments mainly or other filaments that use this material.&nbsp;Also. I haven´t just providen an STL for the hitch, also provided STL file for the front cover of the ALL in ONE Product and also for the Zip Ties so mabe some out there want to make Zip Ties longer or even shorter, also there´s an STL file with the squared mount hitch and rotational axis so mabe some of you want to make the rotational cylinder bigger so the phone mabe don´t wobbles from left ot right when hard driving :)&nbsp;2. ALL THE POSSIBILITIES AVAILABLE WITH THIS DEVICE:&nbsp;So when talking about the whole range of possibilites available with this device it´s not just with the supports for the car but also with the own ALL in ONE design. So let´s divide this into 2 parts, car possibilities and ALL in ONE custom parts and possibilities:&nbsp;ALL in ONE Parts possibilities inside Build Plates:So inside the 3MF File you can find 4 Build Plates, the plate called “ALL in One Main Files” (no description needed here i think… but who knows…) contains the BASE setup to build ALL in ONE, this setup is based on an XL top handle and an XL Helical spring coils, this setup is reccomended for biggest size phones, if you want to add more strength to the handle or you want it to be shorter (in length) then go to the second build plate called “All in One Exclusive Customer Shop” here you can get shorter top handles, shorter coil springs (to apply more force or get less travel).&nbsp;ALL in ONE Car Parts / Supports possibilites inside Build Plates:These point is related with 2 Build Plates, the one´s called “All in One Individual Supports Shop” and “All in One Exclusive Customer Shop”Inside the first one you´ll find all the needed supports or at least the one´s you´re interested in. Into the second one you´ll find also all the custom made Zip Ties for the Squared Shape Base. Inside 3rd point we´ll take a look how to install all the supports if they need to.&nbsp;3. INSTALLING MANUAL:- 3.1 Installing ALL in ONE- 3.2 Installing ALL in ONE Horizontal “U” Shaped Hitches (Vertical ones don´t need installation)- 3.3 Installing ALL in ONE Special Squared Mount and Inserting Custom Zip Ties (&#34;U&#34; Shaped and Double Sided)- 3.4 Installing ALL in ONE Custom Portable Case- 3.5 Installing all supports Male Hitch inside ALL in ONE Female Hitch&nbsp;&nbsp;3.1 INSTALLING ALL IN ONE MAIN STRUCTURE:&nbsp;STEP 1: Install into main frame 2 helicoidal spring coils remember to press both until they get all the way in like shown in photo 4.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_93ccfd38dc84.png">&nbsp;STEP 2: Install top handle bar, leave it on it´s own rails and pass both helicoidal spring resort hitches located at the end of both through top handle small space located at the end.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_519526f4dfcd1.png">&nbsp;STEP 3: Place the front plate, remember logo facing out, and all the hitches from the frame (10 in total) should be over the front plate.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_7ea4b54ec90ac.png">&nbsp;3.2 INSTALLING ALL IN ONE HORIZONTAL “U” SHAPED HITCHES:&nbsp;STEP 1: Like in the photos the longer part from the male hitch looks inside the “U” Shaped Hitch<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_b16e5e2d488d3.png"></figure>&nbsp;3.3 INSTALLING ALL IN ONE SPECIAL SQUARED MOUNT AND INSERTING ALL CUSTOM ZIP TIES:&nbsp;STEP 1: Insert bottom support bar/shaft into bottom space like shown in photos. (Twist and rotate al little just to make installing easier)<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_e3197612f347c.png">&nbsp;STEP 2: Install next piece shown in photos by makin the same twist and rotate against the female hole made into the squared mount, remember to be gentle or it can get damaged.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_9b88aaaca5596.png"></figure>&nbsp;STEP 3: Install finally the male hitch with the male rotation axis, just slide it in it should go in easily.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_89c2a7f925f3.png">&nbsp;STEP 4: Slide in desired Zip Ties, only important thing is to pull in with the dents looking up like shown in the photos. To release them just pull up the leavers located over the zip ties in the front face of the squared mount.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_b1df0c83209b.png">&nbsp;3.4 INSTALLING ALL IN ONE PORTABLE CASE:&nbsp;STEP 1: Just slide in the central axis shaft from the top part of the case (the one where the “ALL in ONE” Logo is located, then rotate and twist again like in previous parts, it should go in without making that much force. Also remember to check the final lock hitch works properly.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_77f4e0e517a89.png"></figure>&nbsp;3.5 INSTALLING ALL SUPPORTS MALE HITCH INSIDE ALL IN ONE MAIN FEMALE HITCH&nbsp;STEP 1: First slide the long hithc plate from the bottom of the male hitch inside the female bottom space of the ALL in ONE once it slides completely in the exert some press to finally lock the top hitch of the male hitch inside the top space located on the rear face of the ALL in ONE Main structure, to take off the hitch repeat both steps going backwards (first remove top hitch, which you gonna feel it´s so hard so pull out gently and finally once it´s out slide out bottom long hitch from the main structure, and repeat as many times you need)<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000426900/design/2024-04-13_33749511aa09.png">&nbsp;&nbsp;So that´s all folks for today, as i always said in previous project´s hope you like it and hope you give it some love :) see ya on the comments!

ALL in ONE Universal Multipurpose Phone Support

JDJDJD

<h2>Meet the Smoothy!</h2>The Smoothy is a PTFE Bowden Tube Y Connector designed for smooth filament transport without catching or binding. This allows you to use an external spool with your Bambu Lab machine without disconnecting your PTFE Bowden Tubes.&nbsp;PTFE tubes are inserted deep into the connector for less wear on the FDM material. This allows for silky smooth operation.&nbsp;As the filament progresses towards the output, it passes through a precisely-designed taper that mates perfectly with the output bowden tube.&nbsp;All PTFE tubes must be inserted until each “stop” is reached (see cutaway diagram).&nbsp;Connectors must be the black type (not blue). The black connectors allow the PTFE tube to “pass thru” which is required for the design to work smoothly: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B97RWKQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B97RWKQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1</a>&nbsp;<h2>BENEFITS:</h2><ul><li>No Supports</li><li>No Overhangs</li><li>No Brims</li><li>Optimized Geometry</li><li>Designed for FDM Printing</li><li>Smooth Operation</li><li>Supports both PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 “pass thru“ connectors</li><li>Free to Download!</li></ul><h2>UPDATES:</h2><ul><li>The Smoothy Mount is now available! Download here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/18190" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/18190</a> The mount is not required, but available to those who prefer to attach the Smoothy to their machines. Without the mount, it can simply rest in-line.</li><li>Both PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors are now supported.</li></ul><h2>TIPS:</h2><ul><li>Make sure ALL bowden tubes are FULLY inserted until each one reaches its stop point. See cutaway diagram for an illustration.</li><li>The output tube does not insert as deep as the input tubes.</li><li>After inserting each tube, you can rotate the tubes back and forth while pressing inward slightly to make sure they&#39;re seated squarely and fully.</li><li>Glue Stick is recommended.</li><li>PTFE tubes must be cut squarely at the tip (no angled tips).</li><li>All PC4 connectors must be installed for a completed design with smooth operation.</li><li>Tested with a 0.4mm Nozzle and 0.2mm Layer Height.</li><li>Print vertically with wide dual-port side on the bed.</li><li>PC4 connectors typically have tapered threads. As such, make sure you don&#39;t over-tighten them as they can create a “wedge effect” and can cause damage.</li></ul><h2>NOTES:</h2><ul><li>These work well printed in PLA. More durable materials can be used, but it may require clearance adjustments.</li><li>I’m currently using this for my Bambu Lab X1C with an AMS, which utilizes an external spool.</li><li>This is the first model that I&#39;m sharing, I hope you enjoy it!</li><li>The Smoothy can be used commercially, but can&#39;t be resold.</li></ul>

The Smoothy - Y Splitter Connector

Bambu Printer Adds/Mods

mikkel.filholm

Heads for the mega brick like man by @Julia Ebert. There is six different faces to personalize your brick man.

Faces for mega brick like man

Kid Decor

Lighting Decor

Costume

filete3d

Silent Ping Pong Paddle, Customizable pattern! No glue required, just snap on the handle!&nbsp;This model was created from experimenting with other 3D printed paddle models, which turned out to be very noisy. Inspired by the airless style, we designed a paddle capable of being customized to the user's preference, choosing the type and percentage of infill.&nbsp;New raquet grif pattern profile uploaded!, reduced printing time at half!&nbsp;How does it work? In Bambu Studio (or any other laminator) remove all the top and bottom layers and play with the infill parameters, at least 15% infill is recommended to achieve an efficient hitting surface.&nbsp;Print the handle with normal printing profile and just snap on the two pieces!&nbsp;Airless Ping Pong Ball tested model: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386079#profileId-286461" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/386079#profileId-286461</a>

Silent Ping Pong Paddle Airless Style Customizable

Sports

Riffcat

Description for commercial use of model of sunset 3d designThe payment is twenty dollars Please make a deposit via PayPal Link: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d</a>Commercial use is indefinite if you pay $20 onceIf you pay $20 once, the model and all of my models are commercially available Also, the model to be released is commercially availableThere are already a lot of models coming out and modeling is doneAlso, if you want, we will give you a model file that will be releasedLet's make a profit from my model. Thank you for reading this For commercial use, please contact sunset_3d_design and pay the amount. Please tag me when posting on Instagram.<a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/sunset3d?utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter&utm_campaign=creatorshare" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/sunset3d?utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter&utm_campaign=creatorshare</a>Hello, I'm sunset 3d, a student and designer. Let me introduce my dragon.<a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d</a> If you donate a little, it will be a big help in making a wonderful dragon.It's free of charge for 1-2 days for multiple people to print out and be happy. I was inspired by the work of a dragon.It was a perfect design and a rewarding modeling, but there was a lot to learn.Also, we considered the user's situation as much as possible.100% printed long! If you reduce the size of the model too much, the cross-section may be fused. You can print it out with 0. Cool, right?And it moves so smoothly. I think it's the best model I've ever made.I love putting new designs on cults for everyone to enjoy; I hope this is the first of many! It's my first 3D modeling, so I hope that I can improve over time and that many people like my model at least once.This work is protected by copyright. However, if you personally send an Instagram messenger and pay the settlement fee, you can continue to sell it.Thank you.I printed it with 4 layers of wall and 0% imprinting (I succeeded with 0% imprinting, but I recommend 10% because it's a little more powerful.I recommend using an in-person pen.Model downscaling may mean fusion of cross-sections, and upscaling may require support. It was tried and tested on a 100% scale, and the printing was excellent.For best results, ensure that the printer remains calibrated, horizontal, and folded. And please share what you made!

ARTICULATED flame dragon

Toys

Fyrby Additive

V-Spooler

3D Printing Tools

Carman3D

Functional 3D Printed Mill&nbsp;Purchased components are listed below, these are McMaster-Carr part numbers with the exception of the router which I purchased on Amazon. You could definitely source cheaper hardware, but the bolts that are labeled (Fully Threaded) need to be. The router is just a cheap one so you may want a better router, or already have one. I included a step file of that part so that you can modify to fit another router.&nbsp;When assembling I would recommend tapping the ½-13 holes if you have a tap, I was able to assemble without it, but it took some working back and forth to make it smooth, and WD-40 can help as well. The second one I built I tapped the holes after printing and it made it a lot easier.&nbsp;½-13 Hex Head Bolts&nbsp;(2) 92800A407 - 10” Long (Fully Threaded)(10) 92240A715 - 1-1/2” Long (Comes in 10 pack)(1) 92800A408 - 12” Long (Fully Threaded)(1) 92240A740 - 8” Long (Fully Threaded)(1) 92240A728 - 4” Long (Fully Threaded)(4) 92240A710 – ¾” Long (Comes in 10 pack)&nbsp;3/8-16 Hex Head Bolts&nbsp;(4) 92240A622 – ¾” Long (Comes in 25 pack)&nbsp;1/2-13 Socket Head Cap Screw&nbsp;(1) 91251A722 - 2-1/2” Long (Comes in 10 pack)&nbsp;Set Screw Shaft Collar&nbsp;(3) 9414T11&nbsp;Routerhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B094VSC1GT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Functional Vertical Milling Machine

Work Shop

Adam L

<h3>TLDR:</h3>This post is quite long and detailed because it involves the findings from hundreds of experiments.  If you&#39;re just looking to try the best settings, download TestSuite_OrcaSlicerOnly_V6.3MF , make sure to set your own filament profile and note the per-object settings that are used along with the global settings.  <ul><li>This plate was tuned against Prusament Simply Green PLA.  </li><li>3x Test objects are printed for 2 sets of optimized settings and a reference “traditional seam” set (for my Bambu X1C). One set of settings is Arachne for general use, the other set is newer and is optimized on curved overhangs, which are quite challenging, it may also work well for general use. </li></ul>For details and to optimize for your printer, read below!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Updates: 2/29/24 PM:  New best settings!  Excel sheet and test suite updated to v2.  Using extrusion rate smoothing now helps a little bit more with quality. I think I&#39;m finally done optimizing.3/1/24: Youtube Video featuring this is now up: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/vl0FT339jfc"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vl0FT339jfc" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>3/8/24:  Significantly reworked this post.  Updated Binary build files to latest main branch build.  Added new whole section on learnings about overhangs from the test pot model.  Retired old test plate and introduced a new best starting settings test plate.&nbsp;3/12/24:  Removed builds, please use <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases" rel="nofollow noopener">Orca 2.0 Beta or newer now</a>, which has this feature.-----------------------Scarf seams are a cutting edge feature in Orcaslicer that allow you to do amazing things, primarily enable hiding of seams on curved surfaces, which has always been a difficult problem with FDM 3D printing.  This guide is intended to show you how to use the feature and get better prints.  If you enjoy my hard work, please download + like my model, it makes me smile ! <h3>Scarf Seams - Overview</h3>The basic idea with scarf seams is that they work by &#34;ramping the seam&#34; over itself, which results in a printed wall that prints on top of itself like this:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/319ba7f3-ef5c-4d59-85ff-8a939e245bf6.png"></figure>Because this is like wrapping a scarf over itself and is also like the common scarf woodworking joint, we call this a “scarf seam”.What are the pros?<ul><li>Scarf seams solve a hard problem in 3D printing of hiding the seam, particularly for prints where the seam must lie on a curved surface. This is actually incredibly common, as inside round holes or external curved surfaces are present in a large number of prints.</li><li>Scarf seams can also work well on flat surfaces, but in some cases traditional seams may be a better option.</li></ul><h4>What are the Requirements / Gotchas ?</h4>Scarf seams can be good for many prints, but particularly in the cases of sharp corners it may be better to use a traditional seam. Scarf seams do have some requirements for use to get good results.  Extensive optimization has been done to find good general settings and another set of settings in particular that may work better for overhangs.  The general principals are:<ul><li>Use of a slower outer wall speed is particularly important to get good results without wall distortions.  How important this is may vary by printer&#39;s ability to precisely control extrusions at very low flow.  Going too slow can be bad too, as it causes localized heating issues.  Optimal speeds are generally in the range 50-100 mm/sec for the scarf speed.  My suggested settings use 75 or 100 mm/sec.</li><li>Use of a wider outer wall helps decrease extrusion rate error.  For a 0.4 nozzle, I recommend 0.6 outer walls.</li><li>Use of a higher layer height than 0.2 may be helpful, again, because it reduces extrusion rate error.  In some cases, however, it can hurt.  My settings are optimized on the common 0.2 mm height.</li><li>Use of inner/outer/inner is the recommended wall order.  Outer/inner appears to provide worse results, as does inner/outer.  This means that overhang performance may suffer, but this is challenging in general with scarf seams (see considerations below).</li><li>Use of extrusion rate smoothing can help edge out just a little more quality on my Bambu X1C printer.  I set mine to 300mm^3/s^2 and this got me the best settings.  Non X1/P1 printers may need other settings.. read the mouse-hover tooltip in OrcaSlicer for an idea of what to use for your printer.</li><li>Toggling certain features make things ugly.  Do not use the following:  <ul><li>Using &#34;Wipe on loops&#34; or “Wipe on external loops” make things bad.</li><li>Combination of (Retract on layer change off + Wipe while retracting off) also no good.</li></ul></li></ul>Overhangs optimization / additional considerations.If possible, it is recommended to paint a scarf seam away from an overhang on a model.  However if it is not possible to do so, then there are some things you can do (see bullets below).  Certain overhangs can be a challenge with scarf seams, and it seems to depend on geometry strongly.  I have designed and tested a difficult “pot” model to optimize overhangs, and have run an additional 80+ tests on this to try and find good values.  Here&#39;s what I learned from this mess of little pots:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/e0a6cfae-1aa2-4bbe-83bd-f3906308f4b4.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Curved overhangs are particularly sensitive to both the number of inner walls, their width and their print order.  It&#39;s important to note that changing certain values like inner wall width can make a meaningful difference.  </li><li>Situations where model thickness is so thin that there&#39;s no infill to relieve any extra over-extrusion can be particularly sensitive (my test pot does this). Single or double walls with no infill or anything touching them on the inside performed the very best, but this limitation is unrealistic for most prints.</li><li> Classic mode can sometimes help, because it stabilizes the width of the walls touching the outer wall, keeping them from varying as they do in Arachne.  This is particularly useful in the case where you don&#39;t have any infill between an inner and outer suface of the object, as is the case with thinner walled objects.</li><li>Speed (outer wall/scarf speeds) is particularly important for overhangs because of the fight between good cooling and adhesion.  For me I found with my filament that 75 mm/sec produced OK results, 100 mm/sec produced better results, but 150 mm/sec was far worse.  There is likely a sweet spot for any given filament/temperature/hotend combination.  You may need to try a few values.</li><li>Use of inner scarf joints is often beneficial to overall quality for the outer scarf seams, but can be a challenge for overhangs, as it causes cause an internal nozzle “landing mark” right next to the outer scarf lead-in start.  This is problematic because the hot nozzle sits there while a de-retraction happens, and leaves a visible inner “smoosh” which distorts the outer walls.  This doesn&#39;t seem to be a problem normally, but with overhangs it appears to cause issues.  Consider using staggered inner seams to help combat this.  Unfortunately the staggering distance is presently fixed and small.  I believe if it were larger, it might help quality even more.  I have <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/4386" rel="nofollow noopener">opened a feature request for this.</a>  Here&#39;s what the circular nozzle “landing mark” from an inner scarf seam (inner-outer-inner wall order) looks like, for reference:</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:81.79%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/7668d890-2d76-45e0-96c6-51e2699ddc98.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<h4>What about setting xxxxxx ?</h4><ul><li>Use of Conditional Scarf Joint is strongly recommended to be on.  This applies the scarf seam only when a round surface (vs sharp corner) is encountered and blends the best of both worlds.  You can also adjust the threshold angle which determines the crossover point between traditional and scarf seams.  In my pot tests and optimized settings, I use a value of 115 to force the scarf seam on everywhere for testing reasons.  This may or may not be optimal for your use case.  Adjust as you like.</li><li>Use of Contour mode will give you scarf seams on the outermost wall only.  Contour+Hole will include inside “hole” walls in the part.  One mode vs the other may be desirable for different reasons.  My settings use Contour+Hole by default.</li><li>Use of Inner Scarf often (but not always !) improves results, but will slow down the print overall. </li><li>Scarf around entire wall makes the nozzle do two passes as it slowly spirals around the entire perimeter.  This has not significantly improved results for me, but some people claim it works better.</li><li>Making the scarf length shorter than the default 20 starts to become a particular quality problem, especially below ~10-15 mm.  I recommend leaving it at default of 20.</li><li>Changing the scarf steps doesn&#39;t seem to matter much.  The default 10 is fine, although my settings use 20.</li><li>Changing the scarf flow ratio doesn&#39;t seem to help, despite hopes that it would. I worked together with SoftFever on this feature in the hopes it would help overhangs, but it didn&#39;t improve anything dropping all the way down to 90% flow.</li><li>Slowing down inner wall speeds can sometimes also improve quality. </li></ul><h3>How-To:</h3>&nbsp;<ol><li> You will need to use a OrcaSlicer 2.0 beta or newer.  <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases" rel="nofollow noopener">Find this here</a>. </li><li> Download the latest TestSuite_OrcaSlicerOnly and print it, to validate the settings on your printer. Make sure you have picked your own filament presets and tuned your filament for temperature/pressure advance/etc before trying this ! </li><li>Pick the best settings from the test-plate scan of parameters. If you don&#39;t get good results with one of the two settings i&#39;ve offered for you here, you may need to start tweaking values based on the explanations listed above.  Note that each set of parameters has 3 test objects:  A cylinder, a double-hex, and a little pot, to test major geometry types. </li></ol>&nbsp;<ol><li>Test 1:  Original Base recommended settings</li><li>Test 2: Newer overhang optimized settings.</li><li>Test 3:  Scarf Seam off.. reference print.</li></ol>&nbsp;Don&#39;t expect perfectly invisible seams.   While scarf seams are a drastic improvement in many cases, it doesn&#39;t mean they&#39;re always perfectly invisible on close inspection.  This feature is cutting edge.&nbsp;<h3>What optimization work has been done ?</h3>&nbsp;Stage 1:  Cylinders + Double HexesI first spent a good deal of time (60+ experiments) optimizing the scarf seam on simple models (cylinders and a double-hex).  You may see my work in the attached excel sheet and the huge number of parts (green pile of junk in pictures) with all the settings I tried.  If you wish to reproduce my work for this stage (SCIENCE!), you can do so by using these settings with the test plate I have included here. These were done on my Bambu X1C printer with a 0.4 Nozzle.  I do believe most of these optimization results will translate to most printers..  however some experimentation may be necessary for your printer.  I recommend running the 2x5 object test plate I&#39;ve included here to validate that you will get good results with the suggested settings on flat/angular and circular surfaces before you use it on a whole print.&nbsp;Stage 2: Complex curved potNot satisfied with the results of stage 1 on overhangs, I then sought to improve matters by designing and optimizing a small curved pot to find good overhang performance settings. It&#39;s small and cute and looks like this:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:19.84%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000211686/design/19d79a79-621b-4bf6-93cc-8f29124b88e9.png"></figure>This took an additional 80+ experiments (see mess of pots image above), which unfortunately I haven&#39;t had the time to compile into an excel sheet.  You&#39;ll have to take my word for it that I tested a ton of things, and my general findings are summarized above in the Overhangs optimization / additional considerations section.  Basically, if you can help it, try to avoid placing the scarf seam on an overhang via seam painting.  If you can&#39;t, I&#39;ve tried to formulate the best settings for you.  Find them in the updated test suite.&nbsp;Other notes:The hard work here is a collaboration with the broad 3D printing community and in particular many great contributors to Orcaslicer.  On the model optimization, I worked with Michael from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw" rel="nofollow noopener">Teaching Tech</a>.  He has another <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/784633-scarf-seam-test-model" rel="nofollow noopener">test model he designed</a>, which is more expensive to print than my test plate, but is a better overall validation.  I recommend printing that after you run my test plate to pick the best parameters.

Better Seams:Orca Slicer Guide to Scarf Seams

Seams

Kit Crafters

This Swivel Fidget Toy is an easy to print and assemble toy that&#39;s both satisfying to use and hear.&nbsp;There&#39;s a nice audible click when the swivel part snaps into position on the base. It can swivel into 3 different positions in a rotation or you can click it back and forth.&nbsp;The files provided support either 6mm diameter magnets or 5mm magnets. Both 2mm and 3mm thick magnets work. Both profiles are 100% infill to make the toy feel more hefty in your hand!&nbsp;Here are the supported magnet sizes:<ul><li>6x2mm</li><li>6x3mm</li><li>5x2mm</li><li>5x3mm</li></ul>When printing the Swivel, different filaments and calibrations may make it too loose or too tight for the magnet to fit. I recommend changing the X-Y hole compensation to make it closer to being too loose so that the magnet can be inserted and super-glued if needed. The uploaded profiles have 0.095 mm for the X-Y hole compensation that I find works very well with Bambu Lab PLA.&nbsp;Here&#39;s what the setting looks like in Bambu Studio:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/162725/2023-11-04_5b222f1a15cd.png">&nbsp;My prototypes use <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/260Pcs-Refrigerator-Magnets-Fridge-Whiteboard/dp/B07XRQ44VC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3MG27ATZ9CZ64&amp;keywords=6x2mm+magnets&amp;qid=1699161422&amp;sprefix=6x2mm+magn%2Caps%2C136&amp;sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noopener">these 6x2mm magnets</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/FINDMAG-Refrigerator-Magnets-Premium-Whiteboard/dp/B08M3GHMWN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3CZD5H0QGJJ6G&amp;keywords=5x2mm+magnets&amp;qid=1699203020&amp;sprefix=5x2m%2Caps%2C171&amp;sr=8-4" rel="nofollow noopener">these 5x2mm magnets</a>, as well as Bambu PLA Matte and Basic. Enjoy and make sure to put your magnets in the right orientations!