oliverfkt

Fyrby Additive

This is an Arc Reactor model for the Bambu Lab LED Lamp 001 kit that you can build in the comfort of your own home without being surrounded by terrorists in a dirty dark cave.&nbsp;If you are able, any way you may decide to support me as a creator is gratefully received:<ul><li>Purchase the LED Lamp kit from Bambu Lab at the bottom of the page</li><li>Boosts are also nice!</li><li>This model is also available <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/825611-arc-reactor-for-led-lamp-001-kit" rel="nofollow noopener">to buy on Printables</a></li><li>If you are generally a fan of my work <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@FyrbyAdditive" rel="nofollow noopener">I also run a club on Printables</a></li></ul><h4>Assembly</h4><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Insert the LED Lamp 001 kit into the base with the cable into the cut-out pictured on the right.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/6823fb76-b1c6-4486-994d-f5f62c5b6f4f.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>You will see ten indentations around the blueish piece, this is where the coils are held.&nbsp;Angle the coils as pictured and place the correct edge in an indentation and snap it over into place.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/50cc010a-5549-4c82-8eff-67d1f8df6a70.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>It should look something like this when done.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/ef271de0-8a0e-47f4-bc4e-e60bee983c8e.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>In the middle section, note the four supports that have bumps on them like the one highlighted in blue to the right.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/1fb546c0-49f0-4069-b6d6-323531838103.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Also note the 4 vertical indentations leading up to the horizontal gap in the blue piece. These are to make insertion easier.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/8c6c3c18-e266-4a39-8690-cf57aff2b3d8.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Align the indicated bumps and indentations and push into place.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/5e44151d-517e-45c2-85a2-e17c7c521c9f.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Once it has been inserted, carefully rotate the blue piece a little so that the indentations are no longer aligned with the bumps.&nbsp;Also, use this as an opportunity to push any coils that have become unsettled into place before the next step.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/c642b7e7-217a-423b-bc6f-375174ea1555.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Note that the inner side of the coils has an edge which sticks out. The goal is to push the ring in the final step in, bending this part back temporarily so it snaps into place. I have done four of these in testing and none have broken yet…</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/d061fafe-0d0c-4680-b740-96ac219360ca.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>I have tried to do this a few ways and it is easier to insert one side in first, poke around the inserted edge on either side then push the rest in.&nbsp;Once you have pushed it in, poke the coils a bit so they settle in their final resting place.</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/66535636-b508-4ed3-8d96-6f97d19d38a1.webp"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Now screw the assembled top onto the base. Congratulations, you now have a working arc reactor!</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000403621/design/6986ce67-1aec-496a-a63d-045085c1f1d0.webp"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Palladium Arc Reactor MKII For LED Lamp 001 Kit

Bambu Kit

K2_Kevin

Based on the “sturdy and stylish” small and scalable Rugged Desktop Organizer Remixed to offer more storage locations for more of your things. Two parts to offer a nice finished look in multiple, easy to print colors.

RUGGED DESKTOP ORGANIZER

Studio Makeover

toolmantim313

Simple rack to hold up to 10 build plates. Screws together with 3mmx14mm socket head cap screws. I included both 3mf and stl files with a multi color stand 3mf file, but it's not really necessary as it stands on it's own. Although since the stand does bolt onto the rack, you can use it to mount to the underside of a bench or shelf in the vertical position. I opted to use 3m tape and attached it to the side of the X1.&nbsp;And check out my Hex system adapter mounts so you can mount the rack to a hex wall!&nbsp;https://makerworld.com/en/models/28603#profileId-24991

10 pc Build Plate Rack - Bambu X1/P1

X1C Upgrades

This is the 4010 fans version of the Rookery Bambu Lab Hotend Bowden Tool Head,here's a link to the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16349#profileId-15229" rel="nofollow noopener">3010 fans version</a>&nbsp;This design allows an x1c hotend (or its clone) to be installed on the Rook MK1 with the original Rookery cradle. Considering how affordable and well the official Bambu Lab hotend is, it is a great hotend option for the Rook.Parts for this variant are as follows,<ul><li>3010 fan (1) </li><li>4010 blowers (2) </li><li>M3x4x5 heat inserts (1, for the hotend key) or (3, 1 for the hotend key, 2 for the fan shroud holder) or (5, all of the above plus 2 for the optional input shaper slot) </li><li>M3x10mm screw (1, to connect hotend key to the cradle) </li><li>M3x16mm screws (2-4, for the 3010 fan) </li><li>M3x20mm screws (2, to attach the hotend key with the hotend) </li><li>M3x6mm screws - Optional (2, for the fan shroud holder) </li><li>PC4-M6 pneumatic fitting (1, for the hotend key) </li><li>M6 nut (1, nylon is preferable if weight is a concern) </li><li>M3 nuts (2, to attach the hotend key with the hotend) </li><li>Bambu Lab X1C hotend or its clone (1)</li></ul>Please note a bowden setup is not ideal for the x1c hotend, and there's a tiny gap between the ptfe tube and hotend. When inserting a new filament, cutting it at a 45-degree angle will make it easier to slide into the hotend. Enjoy!

Bambu Kit

Studio Makeover

X1C Upgrades

Rook MK1.1 Mods