oceanroh

maCyo42

It&#39;s done!!! All Parts printed and assembled! I started the Riser V2 early December and changed the last Parts yesterday. There&#39;s a lot of work in this design, so many small and big changes. Today i will start to Release the first completed picture of the Riser V2 and the Profiles of the Mainbodies. As you later can see i&#39;ve seperated some Parts so that you can play around with Step Files for your own Design Fronts.&nbsp;<h2>Should I print the Riser V1 or V2? Here are the differences.</h2><ol><li>There are 2 Versions of the V1. The Standard is for 8mm Lightstrips and the 12mm Edition for 12mm Lightstrip and additionaly you can fix the Lightstrip with Cable ties. V2 combines the Features of both V1 Riser in this Case. I received a lot questions: Will 12mm Lightstrips fit? It can but that is not sure. It not depends only on the width. The stiffness is one big issue for the curves. Try it i cannot guarantee! There are different lightstrips on the market.</li><li>V2 is tuned more for function than design. There are additionaly Connectors for Accessories like Tools.</li><li>Early December i began to work on V2. My intention was the big change in the Anti Glare Feature and the Connectors. But meanwhile there where some critics on the V1. Some Makers reported a bad fitting of their Top Glas. To much loose in the Spoolholder fitting and so on. So the logical consequence was to rework many things on V2.</li><li>The Modders. I had so many Mails and Msg… can you please add Hexagons insted of Holes and so on. Because of this i reworked the Covers and seperated them for the Modders. You can now easily create your own designs on the most seen Parts of the Riser.</li><li>The printability. Puh i don´t know how to begin exactly. Makerworld makes a lot very easy. But a project like this is not easy. It´s big, it can fail as any other Print… it can fail! But you can do a lot that the chance that it will fail is very small. You have to know your printer, your Filament, your Buildplate… The condition is not the same as i have. But it´s quite easy to begin if you have a predefined Profile. But it´s not a Microwave, it´s a 3D-Printer, a popular and wonderfull Printer. It makes a lot easier and it´s the by far best for consumer on the marked… and nevertheless you have to know what you do. Please keep in mind! I reworked a lot to make it even easier. Less Supports (less filament usage is everytime the best optimization!) Tuned Overhangs especially on the back which is on the Print surface while printing Part 3 and 4. and many more changes</li></ol>happy printing<h2>Features Description</h2><h4>Accessories Port New second Accessories Connector Port. The Port is redesigned an optimized. Accessories fits tighter. The Spoolholder on V1 was a bit to loose.</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_d57fe6c9f6869.png"></figure><h4>New seperated Drawer Front Cover and Handle</h4>With the new separated Drawer Front you can create easily your own Designs and Text on it and print it upside down for best looking Surface. (STEP File of the Cover included) The new Handle locks both Parts (Drawer and Cover) together. No Glue needed!&nbsp;Compatible Inserts for the Drawer <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/44128#profileId-45567" rel="nofollow noopener">Original Inserts &amp; Dividers</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1818851574" rel="nofollow noopener">tomtom5893</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/50855#profileId-52695" rel="nofollow noopener">CHT Nozzle Holder</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/2301853465" rel="nofollow noopener">kylecasey4</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_e7570c3e6befc.png"></figure><h4>New P1S Front Dash Parts with separated Cover for leave Blank or your own Design</h4>In the Standard V2 you have a dummy for the Slot where you can mod different things like a light Switch. The Slot for the MicroSD Card is now protected with a Cover. If you press on the lower Part of the Cover it opens. Yes it´s tricky to get the Card out, but how often you want to get it out… i recommend to use a tweezer or something else. The Covers of Part 5 &amp; 6 is now separated too. You can add your own designs and print it upside down. (STEP Files of the Covers included)<h4><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-16_a2e0b276312d6.png"> Light Strip integration and Anti Glare</h4>The Lightstrip integration is fully redesigned and now combines “V1 Standard” and “V1 12mm Edition” in one sleak Design. You now have a lot of cable tie position to safe your Printer from falling Lightstrip!<ul><li>I strongly recommend COB LED Light Strip with 8mm width. Length 2m and cutable.</li><li>Yes you can also use 10mm or 12mm BUT beware. Most 12mm LED Strip are so stiff that it´s a mess to integrate them.</li></ul>The Anti Glare Feature moved from the Mainbodies to the TPU Gasket Parts because of collisions with the PTFE Tube while printing big Parts. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_88977cc660f9.png">Why more Light? Do i need more Light? YES i think so! <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-17_7662231c60b07.png"><h4>The Toolholder Connector</h4>With this Connector you can add whatever you want to the Riser. In the First step i added the Connector for my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28768#profileId-25133" rel="nofollow noopener">P1S Tools Model (Get it here on Makerworld)</a>. The Toolholder Connector is provided as a Step File as well. With this the Modding Community is able to connect whatever they want. There are 6 Connector Ports 4 of this. 2 on the Left Side and 2 on the Right Side. There are 2 more Connector Ports on the Back in a different design. (STEP File of the Toolholder Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_6005761ec053d.png"></figure>You can also attach a Spoolholder. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/53455#profileId-55205" rel="nofollow noopener">Get my Version with Bearings here</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-01-18_841008088edb2.png"></figure>The “Back Connector” is finally released. Unleash your modding ideas, perhaps for an ESP32 case that can be attached to the back? Use one, two or even all 4 connectors for your modding idea. (STEP File of the Back Connector included)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-02-23_e06df92819799.jpg"></figure><h4>Where to find the &#34;RAW Files&#34; on Makerworld? e.g. Back Connector …</h4>So there are 2 Options. One you can see in the folowing picture as provided by the designer you can find the Parts under “Download STL” else <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_12c13e3925103.png"></figure><h4>Asssembling Guide</h4><ol><li>Push Part 2 on Part 1 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_0b3ee7ecae28a.png"></li><li>Push carefully Part 3 on Part 4 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_719957f53c68.png"></li><li>Then push carefully both Parts 3 &amp; 4 together from the Top to the Bottom in Part 1 &amp; 2 <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000133452/design/2024-05-07_1d6c733360ed3.png"></li><li>tba</li></ol>

AMS Riser V2

Pip Mods

West-DEV

This Half-Mask was designed to demonstrate what a military respirator might look like in the future. Naturally, as a cosplay prop, it can be used or modded to fit a number of original concepts and characters. If you want to attempt to one-shot this model you can go <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/245606" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>. I suggest scaling the model down to around 97% to fit most faces. Also, tree supports made this project possible. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/700109/2024-03-10_b0fa7fce5b8e9.jpg">This version was printed in Wood filled PLA on a QIDI X-Max and it took up most of the build plate. &nbsp;(that is a build volume of 300 x 250 x 300 mm)&nbsp;If you have a problem with retractions, make sure to print the propellors separately.&nbsp;&nbsp;Lastly, if you hate sanding and painting…&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/700109/2024-03-10_f462d0a66f06e.jpg"></figure>Silk PLA looks good too 😁.

All parts, single print, Military Cyberpunk Mask 

HELMETS!

Heblyz

I needed a pc case for a living room pc so i made my own pc frame design as most of the models here are for ITX motherboards. I made it the simplest with the least filament amount I could and in a way it fit on a standard 220 x 220 bed.To build this PC frame you will need: -M3 threaded inserts-16 M3x20 screws-4 M3x10 screws -2 M3x30 screws for the PSU-Motherboard Standoffs (3D printed spacers can do the job)PETG filament would be safer for this print to resist temperatures but I printed it with standard PLA and had no issues.&nbsp;EDIT: Added a revision of the two bottom side parts to allow better compatibility with more PSU. Also added more holes to the middle bar for the SSD bracket mounting.

ATX Open PC Frame

Tech Dreams

Martin Kozak

Paw Patrol lookout tower with functional elevator, door and rotating monocular.&nbsp;Total height about 68 cm.&nbsp;You'll need some M2 and M3 screws and little bit of other hardware to put it together. See <a target="_blank" href="https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1A9oc5LSpIfE7Vjarrvjy8W0-XEy0ydPLYvmmBd9ss7A/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noopener">BUILD GUIDE.</a>

Paw Patrol Lookout Tower

Nugget

3DPODesigns

<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/83371#profileId-88961" rel="nofollow noopener">New Years Mason Jar</a> now available!&nbsp;New <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/64691#profileId-67894" rel="nofollow noopener">Snowman Jar</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/55668#profileId-57243" rel="nofollow noopener">Christmas Edition</a> now available!&nbsp;Due to the overwhelmingly positive reception of my original Mason Jar I've decided to create a short variant for anyone that wants to mix up sizes while still using the same lid!&nbsp;You can find the original, taller version <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/42531#profileId-43357" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.&nbsp;Short version measures 92mm tall without the lid, tall version measures 120mm tall without the lid.&nbsp;A simple, elegant mason jar that prints in vase mode (can also be printed regularly). The lid does NOT print in vase mode, so I've uploaded two separate profiles for your convenience.&nbsp;Vase mode profile is set to .8 wall thickness for strength.&nbsp;Please note the seam for the lid is set to “back” as I prefer to be able to hide them as best I can on cylindrical items. If you prefer other seam placement please adjust.&nbsp;If you enjoy the model, please toss it a like!

Short Mason Jar with Lid (Vase Mode)

Functional Printables

The Spirit

Made a nice soda can holder in voronoi style.The soda can fits snug, so it does not slip out.Can be printed without supports.With the small hole at the bottom you can easily push out the empty can.A cool gadget for every party.Hope you like it.&nbsp;2024-02-28:added two more print profiles:<ul><li>add the A1 mini to the supported printers</li><li>add the A1 mini to the supported printers + add support</li></ul>2024-03-08:made a new version for the smaller and taller soda cans:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/238092#profileId-254012" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/238092#profileId-254012</a>

Voronoi soda can holder

Fun Gadgets

Balzo98

Here for you my version of the train scene from Spirited Away, one of my favourite Ghibli film!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:52.39%;"><img src="https://blautoothdmand.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/train_14.png?w=1200"></figure> In this model it might be a little tricky to remove the supports.Chihiro neck is very fragile so you have to be very gentle when you remove the support.The train also has some support that is not that easy to remove.I added some 1mm thick acrylic glass (from the cheapest ikea frame) for the window glass.&nbsp;Hope you enjoy!

Spirited Away Train Diorama

Decorations

Josh-3D

A headphone stand with industrial styling!&nbsp;I have my previously designed stand, but it's not always suited for larger headphones. I also wanted something a little more industrial styled, and thus managed to come up with this.&nbsp;Model is featured in Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal and Bambu Iridium Gold Metallic. A good alternative with similar look to Bambu's metallic is Hatchbox's Metallic line. There might be others, but that's the one I'm aware of.&nbsp;[Spotlight]Check out this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/198355#profileId-218961" rel="nofollow noopener">PS5 Headset focused remix</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@JJDeluxeDesigns" rel="nofollow noopener">Johan Jamaer - JJ Deluxe Designs</a>! &nbsp;[Tools & Assembly]&nbsp;Assembly is pretty easy. You'll need the following hardware and tools.M4x10 - 2M4x16 - 4 M4x20 - 4 M4x25 - 4 M4x40 - 4 M4 Nuts - 16Hex DriverDrill bit for clearing holes&nbsp;For the screws, I am using M4 Socket head cap screws. If you don't have M4 screws on hand, I would recommend purchasing an assortment kit, like <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TYR314X" rel="nofollow noopener">this one from amazon</a>.&nbsp;Start by clearing out the holes as illustrated. A flat surface was left on these holes so additional support wouldn't be needed during printing. Only the leg and foot pads will need this.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.27%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/735388/2024-02-16_cc69e7772ce41.png"></figure>For assembly, you'll be using the 3d printed spacers along with the M4 screws. The side with the nut is wedged slightly, so as you tighten it, it should grip onto the model instead of spinning.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50.28%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/735388/2024-02-16_e4a86bd163cf6.png"></figure>For the headphone rest, first screw the top to the bracket.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.1%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/735388/2024-02-16_4922cbd159136.png"></figure>Then use the following image to help guide the rest of the build, and which screws go where. First assemble the main arm, and then work your way outwards, attaching the base, legs, feet, and headphone rest.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:71.27%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/735388/2024-02-16_6c33876ddced.png"></figure>&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you're looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.