nmj1108

FunkyArt

A 100% 3D printed Smartphone-holder-arm that offers, at least, three axes. And the option of double braces between the axes. In the standard configuration, the arm easily supports around 500 grams in any position. &nbsp;The versatility of this arm enables secure and flexible positioning of smartphones or even tablets and cameras (coming soon) in any desired orientation. Print with high infill and clean up the prints carefully, the minimal gap dimensions of the 3D printed parts ensure reliable function and solid haptic but could also be hard for some printers. &nbsp;You find more additional features and alternatives in the Download section. I will provide more Instructions soon.&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxNsubX2KjE"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FxNsubX2KjE" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;There are some additional upgrades in the download section, such as additional phone rotating movement and counterscrews, less tight screws and a bigger phoneholder.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/752785/2023-11-18_f7836c4a1c65.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:98.24%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/752785/2023-11-18_a6107c3f6e376.gif"></figure>What to Print?<ul><li>1x CZFA_Flexframe_BaseA_part11x CZFA_FlexFrame_BaseA_part2</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_PhoneMount (or the optional bigger one)</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_Mount-Mount (or the optional one with rotating axis)</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_Screw_cap-lid</li><li>1x CZFA_FlexFrame_Screw_small_Phoneholder</li><li>3x CZFA_FlexFrame_Frame_25cm</li><li>4x CZFA_FlexFrame_Screw</li></ul>Additional parts for rotating your phone, small phones adapter or counters crews..<ul><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_mount-mount-additional-movement-2-2</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_mount-mount-additional-movement-1-2 (you will need also one more small screw)</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_PhoneMount-small_phones_adapter</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_XL-PhoneMount</li><li>CZFA_FlexFrame_Counterscrew (optional to add more weight)</li></ul>Also less_tight versions of the screws.

Flexible & sturdy phone arm (100% Printed)

支架

三十而肥 - 30 3D Print

<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcAgvkfRk-M" rel="nofollow noopener">If you cannot see the video, please click here</a><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcAgvkfRk-M"></oembed></figure>The design of this wireless charger comes from the Airforce Command Headquarters in the classic game &#34;Command &amp; Conquer: Red Alert 2&#34;. It perfectly recreates the animated effects from the game, including radar rotating and lights flashing. The overall dimensions are 14cm x 10cm x 12cm. It features two power modes: low power mode ranging from 0 to 5 watts and high power mode ranging from 5 to 15 watts. If you intend to use the high power mode, it&#39;s recommended to use temperature-resistant filament for printing, such as ABS or ASA.&nbsp;This model is fully compatible with the Wireless Charger Kit-K012 released by Bambu Lab. Additionally, you only need to prepare glue and a screwdriver to complete the installation.&nbsp;Hardware Kit: <a target="_blank" href="https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2282157&amp;u=4090353&amp;m=138211&amp;urllink=store%2Ebambulab%2Ecom%2Fproducts%2Fwireless%2Dcharger%2Dkit%2Dk012&amp;afftrack=" rel="nofollow noopener">Wireless Charger Kit</a>&nbsp;Disclaimer:This model is part of the Creator Program, When you purchase the Wireless ChargerKit K012 through the links below, creators may earn an affiliate commission as a reward of their work. (The creator program is currently in the trial phase. The application is not yet open to public.)&nbsp;If you don&#39;t have AMS, you can also complete the printing of multi-color parts according to the following steps:&nbsp;Step 1.Set Z hop when retract in the filament settings to 0.4 or above.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000018389/design/2024-03-16_3c9f964c89d86.png">Step 2.Place the multi-colored side facing down, at the edge of the hotbed, avoiding covering the center of the hotbed, then split to objects.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000018389/design/2024-03-16_ec72e6b6b97ec.png">Step 3.By deselecting the printable option, retain only one color and print.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000018389/design/2024-03-16_5cc93eb6a8f56.png">Step 4.After the printing is completed, keep the hotbed still and replace it with another filament. Use the same method to print another color. Be careful to cancel the Bed Leveling this time.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000018389/design/2024-03-16_ec8e1811ef86.png">Step 5.Repeat the above steps until the printing is complete.&nbsp;Enjoy printing.&nbsp;

Airforce Command Headquarters Wireless Charger

无线充电

3DDruckbyDennis

Milwaukee LED SIGN

led 密尔沃基

Kocyns

Thanks for video: @marsgizmo (ytb)<h4>PRINT SETTINGS</h4><ul><li>Height: 100 mm</li><li>Recommended material is PLA and layer 0,12mm</li><li>Minimal scale 75%!</li><li>Optimized model for printing without support!</li></ul><h4>Remix: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/173902#profileId-191118" rel="nofollow noopener">Heart for Rose Bear</a></h4><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 40.76%"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/173902#profileId-191118" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000152175/design/2024-02-06_bdaecc3a4c139.png"></a></figure>&nbsp;If you want permission for commercial use: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/kocy/" rel="nofollow noopener">patreon.com/Kocy</a>

Rose Bear

玫瑰熊

PolyZone3D

Milwaukee Keychain

密尔沃基钥匙扣

Kevbot.

This is the second part of the Valentine&#39;s Day drop.&nbsp;It is shaped like a rose, and it fits in the palm of your hand. It&#39;s print in place and has holes for magnets to keep it securely closed. It also has a cut-out for a ring on the inside, and the neat part is that it will fit a wide variety of ring sizes without them falling out.&nbsp;The ring will stay in place because of a separate spring that pushes against the ring to keep it from moving around. -This spring is printed separately and needs to be inserted mid-print (I&#39;ve included a stop for it in the 3MF file, along with stops for the magnets). *see photo for more details&nbsp;This model is for PERSONAL USE ONLY, if you want a commercial license and access to more awesome models you can get it on my patreon <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/kevbot_3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/kevbot_3d</a>&nbsp;You will need 16, 6 by 3mm Neodymium Magnets. These are the magnets I use if you are interested:&nbsp;60 Pack on Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/47pQFaj" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/47pQFaj</a>100 Pack on Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3Sa8beg" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3Sa8beg</a>&nbsp;Have a great Valentine&#39;s Day!Sincerely,Kevin&nbsp;Disclaimer: Some links in this description may be affiliate links. This means I may earn a small commission if you click them and make a purchase. It&#39;s no extra cost to you, but it truly helps me to keep producing free designs. Thank you!

Rose Ring Box! (Print in Place)

玫瑰和戒指盒

3DPickles

nike shoe keychain (remix)<ul><li>easy to print</li></ul>

nike shoe keychain (remix)

nike钥匙扣

NoycePrints

Here is a collection of handy attachments for the Dum-E desk helper. All are simple to connect to the wrist, requiring only a single M3x10mm countersunk screw to secure. I aim to publish more adapters and attachments as time goes on. Let me know if there's anything in particular you would like to see made available. &nbsp;Included are the followingPhone standBusiness card holderElastic band powered gripperLogitech c920 Webcam clampLamp attachment&nbsp;Required for assembly&nbsp;Phone standPrint stand parts 1x Backing and Bottom. Recommend 20-30% infill for both. No supports. Screws required: 2 M3x10mm countersunk screws. &nbsp;Business card holderPrint card holder parts 1x left arm, right arm, backing and base. Recommend 20-30% infill for each. No supports.Screws required:2x M2.5x8mm countersunk screws.2x M3x10mm countersunk screws.&nbsp;Webcam mount for Logitech C920Print webcam mount parts A and B. Recommend 20-30% infill for both. No supports.Screws required:2x M3x10mm countersunk screws. Gripper attachmentParts to print:Gripper left x 1Gripper right x 1Gripper frame x 1Gripper connecting arm x 8Recommend 30% infill, no supports.Screws required:16x M3x8mm countersunk screws.1x small elastic band (if you want it to function) This slots into groves on the sides of the arms. Desk Lamp AttachmentParts to print:1xLamp attachment1xBambulab LED lamp Kit 001Optional 2x M3x5mm screwsPrint at 15-20% infill&nbsp;Coming soon: <ul><li>Stationary holder.</li><li>Helping hands for electronics soldering.</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Dum-E optional attachments.

机械手支架

甄大大本甄

<h2>bilibili : 甄大大本甄</h2><h2>QQ群：6699770</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000157134/design/2024-02-07_d9de8ea48f0d2.png"></figure>

电动转大钱

转大钱

marcopiazzo95

The written number, expressed in millimeters, represents the distance between the outer wall and the inner wall. The difference in diameter is twofoldOnly 3 grams.&nbsp;The 0.05 gap should only be free to spin if you print with a 0.2mm nozzle. With the 0.4mm nozzle the slicer does not consider the 0.05mm gap and fuses the 2 parts together, it is not a printer error.&nbsp;&nbsp;Il numero scritto, espresso in millimetri, rappresenta la distanza tra la parete esterna e quella interna. La differenza sul diametro è doppia.Solo 3 grammi&nbsp;Lo spazio 0.05 dovrebbe essere libero di girare solo se stampi con un ugello da 0.2mm. Con l'ugello da 0.4mm lo slicer non considera lo spazio di 0.05mm e fonde assieme le 2 parti, non è un errore della stampante.

Tollerance Test 3 grams

测试

Rambo7641

Update 29/02/2023 <ul><li>Added Sizing Ring</li><li>New Instructions </li><li>Optimized Print Time ( 14 hours insted of 16)</li></ul>

Iron Man MK3 Articulated Helmet

钢铁侠

Meet Dum-E, the handy desk helper industrial robot. I designed it with purpose in mind as it can function as a phone stand, webcam mount (logitech c920) and a business card holder. It doesn&#39;t end there though, as I aim to develop this platform with further attachments in future. These may be recommended from others and/ or what I think might be useful. I hope you find it useful and please feel free to comment any recommendations for attachments you would like to see in future. I look forward to seeing your different uses/ prints and colour schemes. Thank you for your continued support :)&nbsp;To keep files from getting complicated, I have only included the phone stand attachment in this upload. I have placed optional attachments in a sperate upload available on my profile titled “Dum-E optional attachments”. This will be periodically updated with new wrist attachments I think may be of use or other people suggest. Printing helper<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Part</td><td>Quantity</td><td>Infill</td><td>Supports required</td></tr><tr><td>Arm 1</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>YES</td></tr><tr><td>Arm 2</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Shoulder Joint</td><td>1</td><td>30%</td><td>YES</td></tr><tr><td>Wrist to attachment connector</td><td>1</td><td>40%+</td><td>YES</td></tr><tr><td>Turntable</td><td>1</td><td>20%</td><td>NO</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Part</td><td>Quantity</td><td>Infill</td><td>Supports required</td></tr><tr><td>Base</td><td>1</td><td>20%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Feet</td><td>1</td><td>20%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>XL motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Large motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Medium motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Small motor</td><td>1</td><td>15%</td><td>NO</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Part</td><td>QTY</td><td>Infill</td><td>Supports required</td></tr><tr><td>Phone stand backing</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>NO</td></tr><tr><td>Phone stand bottom</td><td>1</td><td>25%</td><td>NO</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Required for assembly Superglue for fake motor attachment and Nitrile cord.1mm nitrile rubber cord, 16cm should be enough for 1 complete arm. This is only required between joints if you intend on supporting the weight of a phone etc. Alternatively, if you have TPU filament you can use Fat Tony&#39;s handy TPU O-rings. They&#39;re a quick print and don&#39;t require superglue to fit. You can get them here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/205832#profileId-225948" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/205832#profileId-225948</a> Thanks again for the great alternative Tony!&nbsp;As an optional extra, I&#39;d recommend using 4x 3M 6mm Anti-slip sticky back rubber feet. They fit in recessed circles in the corners of the feet.&nbsp; Screws: A total of 13 are required for the arm plus 3 for the phone stand, listed below.M3x10mm - QTY 12 - available on the store, linked below.M3x15mm - QTY 3M5x30mm - QTY 1Foot: 4x M3x10mm countersunk.Base: 1x M3x15mm countersunk.Shoulder joint to Arm 2 rotation point: 1x M5x30mm countersunk.Turntable: 4x M3x10mm countersunk.Rotation point between Arm 1 and Arm 2: 1x M3x15mm countersunk.Arm 1 to wrist connector rotation point: 1x M3x15mm countersunk.Coupling attachment to wrist: 1x M3x10mm countersunk.3 M3x10mm screws are required for the Phone stand. Assembly tipsCut 3 lengths of Nitrile cord, 74, 55 and 30mm in length. Glue one side of each and cure into individual circles. These will be glued on one side between the 3 separate joints on the arm. Doing this will vastly improve the holding capacity of the arm as it will provide more friction between the joints, helping to prevent them from sagging under weight.The 74mm circle goes between the elbow joint and arm 2.The 55mm circle goes between the arm 1 and 2 joint.The 30mm circle goes between the arm 1 and wrist attachment connector.I have added 3 pictures as a guide at the end of the gallery.

Dum-E the handy desk buddy. Lamp, stand, holder 

机械手

suit1337

The original MAKPAC is expensive, so why not after all 3D print it? Yes - possible, but there are no models available and 3D printing a 30x40 cm piece will cost you almost the same as buying an injection moulded part. Also most printers dont offer that kind of build volume - but what about smaller sizes? Right - there is none, but wouldn't it be nice to have those to put in screws, drill bits and such?<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/118174/2023-10-25_o1otryc2dmdx.jpg"></figure><h4>About</h4> the box is intended to mimic the MAKPAC so it has the same proportions and looks the same so it fits nicly into your workshopNote that this is not a scale model of the original MAKPAC, if you scale it up it will not be compatible with the original<h5> </h5><h5>so what is different? </h5><ul><li>internal geometry is a bit simplified (especially the corners)</li><li>hinge mechanism at the back is modified so it is more stable</li><li>carry handle hinges are made to be disassmbed</li><li>screw mounts in the lid are not to scale (designed to accept M3 screws)</li><li>mounts for the carry strap on the lid are not present</li><li>cutouts for a padlock on the front right are not present</li><li>holes in the corners are omitted (they would protrude to the inside)</li><li>bottom pattnern is slightly changed for easier printing</li><li>wall thickness slighly increased for more rigidity</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/118174/2023-10-25_2nx5h0izij9e.png"><h4>BOM</h4><ul><li>a printer with rougly 200 x 150 mm build area</li><li>roughly 250 to 300 g of filament i've just used regular black and white PETG from <a href="https://www.geeetech.com/?cID=83844" rel="nofollow">Geeetech</a> (affiliate link)</li><li>some plastic glue (<a href="https://www.amazon.de/UHU-46650-Spezialkleber-harte-Kunststoffe/dp/B000QB6HZK/?tag=rebellat-21" rel="nofollow">UHU Hart</a> works for me; affiliate link)</li></ul>If you want Makita color, try looking for RAL 5021 (or RAL 5018) - those tend to be pretty expensive, that is why i used plain old black :)<h4>Printing</h4>Keep in mind that there are lots of appearant overhangs and bridges, make a testprint to check it if works - it is intended&nbsp;use the following settings as a guidline<h5>general </h5><ul><li>PETG </li><li>0,2 mm layers</li><li>3 walls</li><li>3 bottom surface layers</li><li>25 % gyroid infill</li><li>normal supports with 1 mm interface spacing</li><li>interface 90° to buildplate</li><li>bridges 0° to buildplate</li></ul><h5>pins</h5><ul><li>maximum walls</li><li>concentric pattens</li><li>random seams</li></ul><h5>feet</h5><ul><li>no supports, just the bridges</li></ul><h4>label</h4><ul><li>no supports, just bridges</li><li>bridges at 45°</li><li>color change after layer 4 (base is 0,8 mm) if you want the logo to be colored differently, layer 5 and 6 get the other color</li><li>there is also a blank label included - use 2 layers (0,4 mm) for your own text</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/118174/2023-10-25_3z634haf2bnm.jpg"></figure><h4>Assembly</h4>the feet and the label need to be glued on (it is needed to save material and make it easer to print), also the handle needs to be glued togetherthe bridges used in printing have a tolerance of about 0,1 to 0,2 mm and are intended to give the glue a surface to grab on - so even if you print in PETG it will be durable bond - so if you have a multi material printer and want to use support material to have a clean surface, be aware that you intentionally make the glue surfaces “rough”after everything is glued together, add the handle and the lid with the matching pinsdue to print tolerances and the fact that they are printed with random seams the are intentionally rough so they have better friction and don't fall out. if you don't get them in straight away, turn then and move them back and forth until they snap into placethe latches need to be angled at 45° and then twisted in (just like on the original MAKPAK) &nbsp;<h4>Changelog</h4><h5>2023-06-03 v60</h5><ul><li>added body size 2, 3 and 4</li></ul><h5>2023-06-03 v59</h5><ul><li>ironed out a few “odd corners” of the body (size 1) piece in preparation for the other sizes</li></ul><h5>2023-06-02 v58</h5><ul><li>added an optimized latch piece</li></ul><h5>2023-05-29 v54</h5><ul><li>Initial release </li></ul>&nbsp;<h4>Credits / License</h4>The MAKPAC was licenced by Makita from Thanos - they have released their frist Systainer in 1994. So obviously, this model is for private use only and can't be replicated commercially.The Makita Logo i used, is taken from the Public Domain file from Wikipedia Commons: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Makita_Logo.svg" rel="nofollow">File:Makita Logo.svg</a> - the Registered Trademark Symbol (®) was removed, since it is too small to be printed&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Makita MAKPAC Mini; Size 1, 2, 3 and 4 (50 % scale)

盒子

M-Factory

I made a new nozzle for the Faberge Retro Rocket. The one from the original was too long and the rocket couldn't stand up with the nozzle attached. Printed the rocket at 75%. The nozzle was printed with a brim.! This is a new nozzle for the Faberge Retro Rocket on Thingiverse !UPDATE: (October 23th 2023)Hi everybody, it's amazing how many time this Nozzle has been downloaded!After working on this Nozzle I decided to give it a try and design the whole thing! My goal was to use different filaments to give the rocket a color punch, so no paint required!!!I might have over done it and the thing turn out to be a "kit".Here is the link to the <a href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/cartoon-rocket-no-paint-required" rel="nofollow">Cartoon Rocket</a>, hope you guys enjoy building it as much as I did. If you have any comments/questions or if you need help with a design, please contact me and if you like any of my designs please feel free to <a href="https://paypal.me/officialuphoto/5USD" rel="nofollow">buy a me a cup of coffee</a>. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/112355/2023-10-23_l9subyizri2f.gif">/M Factory<h3>Print Settings</h3>Printer Brand:CrealityPrinter: Ender 3 ProRafts:NoSupports: NoResolution:0.2&nbsp;&nbsp;Category: Vehicles

Faberge Retro Rocket Nozzle

Vissidus

Disclaimer: the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4065967614" rel="nofollow noopener">Author</a> assumes no responsibility or liability for any misuse and damage caused by the contents of this publication. The model and individual parts contained in this publication are not intended to be used to perpetrate any illegal activity. Under no circumstances shall the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/4065967614" rel="nofollow noopener">Author</a> of this model and publication be liable for any alterations made to the contents of this publication by any party aimed to construct a firearm. The tool shown in this video is a 3D printed, non-functional toy pistol with no ability to propel any projectiles in it's initial configuration by default, by design. About: The PP9 is a toy handgun mockup, consisting a total of 30 parts (assembly required, not including springs). Everything you expect from a pistol is completely functional: chambering, ejection, trigger pull, slide stop on ammo runout, etc.. There is no striker and trigger lever intended in this design, thus the trigger pull is for show only. Note: PP9 stands for Printed Pistol 9 millimetre The magazine holds up to 13-15 rounds (9mm nominal) with an appropriate steel spring (or up to 4 rounds with the included printed spring). Slide racking, extractor, magazine lever and trigger pull require appropriate springs (not included in the assembly). Note: printed dimensions may differ, therefore some sanding may be required to achieve proper tolerance. Note: some parts required for full functionality (recoil spring, magazine spring, magazine catch spring, extractor spring) are not included in the assembly. Also, If you found this model to your liking and wish to support the author you can donate <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/vissidus" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> Accessories: This model features a short-barreled rifle (SBR) conversion kit, with a few of it's own accesories, such as a semi-adjustable stock, a vertical grip, non-flip iron sights and is capable of carrying any other accessory that can be attached to a standard picatinny rail. Note: the kit is currently undergoing testing (and as is, a semi-final prototype) To download the kit follow the link: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81074#profileId-86227" rel="nofollow noopener">SP PP9 - SBR Conversion Kit</a> – Recommendations: For the most appealing receiver appearance a carbon fibre/matte filament is recommended: PLA-CF/PETG-CF. Pins and levers are best made of carbon steel. For the slide/magazine a matte/metal finish filament is recommended (ex.: Bambu Lab PLA Metal, Bambu Lap Charcoal Matte PLA). Note: PLA is sufficient enough to withstand wear and tear. For extreme durability, printing critical parts (i.e. slide locking block, slide stop lever, etc.) with PC is highly recommended. Machined stainless steel (304L, 316L)/carbon steel (1040, 1045) alternatives are superb. -- Receiver Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_5a2c5818fe086.png"> 1. Insert the ‘Slide Stop Lever’ (2) into the slot, aligned with a thru hole on the 'Control Unit Housing' (3), and push the ‘Slide Stop Lever Pin’ (1) until flush with the housing, locking the lever in place. 2. Insert the ‘Trigger Pin’ (6) into the 'Trigger' (13) until the pin protrudes (approximately) symmetrically from the trigger on both sides 3. Attach the trigger spring (not depicted in the drawing) to the trigger, and insert it into the housing unit until the trigger pin is confronted with two legs on each side 4. Align the housing unit with the receiver and push it into the receiver, aligning the rear, the front and the trigger with their respective cutouts. 5. Insert the 'Rear Mounting Rails' (5) into the housing unit as shown until fully seated 6. Insert the ‘Ejector’ (4) into the housing unit on top of the rear mounting reals, as shown, until fully seated 7. Lock the rear side of the housing unit in place by inserting the ‘Rear Mounting Pin’ through the receiver 8. Insert the ‘Magazine Catch Lever’ into the receiver, aligning the spring cutout on the lever with the hole inside the magazine well 9. Insert a magazine catch spring (1.6-1.8mm Music Wire, 20mm Length/Glock magazine catch spring, cut to 20mm length) into the hole and push it into the sot on the magazine catch lever 10. Insert the ‘Front Mounting Rails’ (12) into the cutout at the front of the receiver, locking it in place by inserting two ‘Front Mounting Pin’s from each side of the receiver, until flush with the frame 11. Insert the ‘Slide Locking Block’ (14) into the control unit housing slightly behind the front mountil rails, until flush with the top surface of the receiver 12. Push the ‘Slide Locking Lever’ (10) until the flat section of the lever is coincident with the right sight of the receiver. Do not push it all the way through. Note: The extractor spring is easily obtained from a lighter (the longer spring) with no length adjustments 13. Insert the magazine catch lever spring into the slot inside the receiver between two curves surfaces such that it latches onto a cutout in the magazine catch lever Note: An alternative assembly is described down below&nbsp;Alternative Magazine Catch Lever Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-25_829bee564f378.png"> 1. Insert the ‘Magazine Catch Lever’ (2) into the receiver such that the lever is in it's default position (i.e. left side is flush with the grip) 2. Slide the ‘Catch Lever Spring Carrier’ (1) from the top of the receiver into the slot and push thru until flush with the catch lever 3. Slide the ‘Catch Lever Spring’ (3) into the catch lever, aligning it with the square guide extrusion 4. Compress the spring until it is properly seated on the guide extrusion on the carrier Note: Slight preload is applied when the spring is fully and properly seated. See “Spring Specifications” for spring dimensions. The spring is easily obtained from a lighter (fork spring (if with a spark wheel) or igniter spring (if with a push-button igniter)) Recoil Group Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_afe3302aa44a1.png"> 1. Slide the ‘Recoil Spring Spacer’ (2) down the ‘Recoil Guide Rod’ (1) all the way down 2. Slide the ‘Recoil Spring’ (4) all the way down, until flush with the spring spacer 3. Compress the spring slightly and attach both ‘Recoil Spring Clamps’ from boths sides of the guide rod until the ends are coincident Note: The recoil spring is to be bought within the listed specifications or tested at the spot with a fitting off-the-self spring Slide Assembly Steps: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_cc860e019a99a.png"> 1. Insert a spring into the rear circular slot in the slide and push the ‘Slide End Cap' (6) up into the slide until fully seated. Note: The slide end cap is not intendet to be disassembled. The spring should be stiff enough to apply sufficient amount of pressure to hold the cap in place. 2. Insert the ‘Sights Contrasts’ (5) into the 'Front Sights' (1) and ‘Rear Sights’ (4) until flush with the surface. Note: It is highly recommended to print the contrast inserts with glow in the dark or stark white filament 3. Insert the extractor spring (not depicted in the drawing) into the appropriate slot on the left side of the slide. 4. Insert the ‘Extractor’ (3) into the slot and lock it in place with the ‘Extractor Pin’ (2) by inserting it through the upper thru hole on the left side of the lost, until the pin is flush with the hole. 5. Tilt the barrel (approximately) 30 degrees, aligning the sides parallel to the slide sides and push it through until you are able to tilt it back flush with the slide. 6. Insert the ‘Recoil Group Assembly’ (8) end cap (solid front end) into the lower hole and push the guide rod thru until the rod can be aligned with a slot in the barrel, then release. Note: The extractor spring is easily obtained from a lighter (the smaller spring) with minial length adjustments Clip/Magazine Assembly Steps:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_1f3e2b6765c74.png"> 1. Slide the ‘Follower’ (3) into the magazine (1) from the bottom 2. Insert the included spring (5, not depicted in the drawing) or an appropriate magazine spring 3. Insert 'Magazine Bottom Plate Retainer' (4) and compress the spring by pressing it down into the well 4. Slide the ‘Magazine Bottom Plate’ (2) onto the magazine until flush on all sides and retainer plate is engaged. The spring will apply pressure to hold the plate in place. Note: The recoil spring is to be bought within the listed specifications or tested at the spot with a fitting off-the-self spring Complete Assembly: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/228112/2023-11-23_b5c07a2c44db2.png"> 1. Place the slide up on the frame top surface aligned with the front mounting rails, with the slide locking block flush with the frame pull the slide to the rear until it is fully seated in the receiver. 2. Push the slide locking lever forward until it is flush with the receiver and rotate clockwise until it is parallel with the cutout. 3. Insert the magazine into the magazine well on the receiver and push up until the magazine catch lever engages the magazine and locks it in place.

SP PP9 - Functional Handgun Toy

KYZ Design

Originally posted <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/463601-hsw-feet-for-freestanding-walls-honeycomb-storage-" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, check it out to see past makes and comments&nbsp;These feet use the Ez-V1 series clip and therefore require no screws, are designed for easy printing, and print in the strongest direction.This will work with standard HSW wall pieces but if you are just having 1 piece, see this for <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/26738#profileId-26811" rel="nofollow noopener">single wall pieces with integrated frames</a>.&nbsp;If you print the feet with a fibre filled material (I used CF-ASA) and use it with one of the 10mm thick “HD” wall pieces as shown in the pic (which I printed in ABS+), it will be a very tight fit, but will not wobble and be quite secure.&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/11128021/collections/18964" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> for my other Honeycomb Storage Wall models andcheck out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/11128021/collections/26498" rel="nofollow noopener">this collection</a> for my Gridfinity models.

HSW Feet for Freestanding Walls - Honeycomb Storage Wall

置物架

Print4Gods

great THX @<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/de/@Bounet" rel="nofollow noopener">Bounet</a> i Remixed it and added 2 holes for nuts / it works without tooThe original Bambu Lab spool holder is such a pretty piece of metal I couldn't bear to put it away in a drawer forever since it goes to the worst possible place on the machine… So, I gave it some feet :) You will need 2 M3x10 or 12.Personally, I ran an M3 tap through the holes but if you drill them a tad bigger you might just screw it in.I printed it with 3 walls for strengths in PLA.No support needed, extra cooling is best.<ul><li>I Fix the Hols for a perfect fit and improved the print bed adhesion</li></ul>

Bambulab OEM Filament Spool holder

拓竹料盘支架

OurAngryBadger

<h3>Bambu X1C Exhaust Muffler / Fan Silencer</h3>Work in process. Updates will be posted below.<h4>Features:</h4><ul><li>Make the printer quieter by muffling the noise from the extremely loud rear exhaust fan.</li><li>Using air baffle design, minimize noise while trying not to minimize airflow.</li><li>The muffler attaches to the printer chassis using existing screw holes and your choice of magnets.</li><li>Compatible for multi-color printing.</li><li>Work in process.</li><li>Open-source design files included, feel free to make model better or use model as inspiration for better designs.</li></ul><h4>Latest Update:</h4>02/27/23 - Bambu Lab logo fix edition:<ul><li>Fixed an edge issue on the logo that may have caused it to not print well with some slicing settings.</li><li>Lowered the logo recession from 0.6mm to 0.2mm so it can print better with less chance of sagging during bridging. You must now use 0.2mm layer height or thinner for the first 3 layers of the print.</li></ul>12/17/22 - New design, many new changes:<ul><li>Versions are now date-based (this version is v221217).</li><li>Re-shaped the outer shell to fit better with AMS hub.</li><li>Removed bottom magnet holes for AMS hub fit.</li><li>New internal design to better muffle the sound (tested about ~5db reduction over original number) with no noticeable loss of cooling or airflow.</li><li>Added more magnet holes to top center for most popular magnet sizes (5x3mm, 5x6mm, 6x3mm, 5x5mm square, 5x5mm rectangle).</li><li>Now the muffler relies less on magnets and instead on more screws.</li><li>Added new slotted screw mounts to mount muffler directly to back of printer using existing screw holes, these are stronger now too.</li><li>Screw slots accommodate M2.5 or M3 screws (M3 recommended). </li><li>Now you must print with support, for the exterior screw mounts only.</li><li>Profile of entire muffler slightly reduced.</li><li>Added Bambu Logo to back of muffler, good for multi color printing.</li><li>Other minor design changes.</li></ul>Big thank you to the community for providing feedback and remixes, some of the above changes were inspired by community remixes.<h4>Print / Install Instructions:</h4><ol><li>I recommend to print with 4 walls, 6 top and bottom layers, and 0.16mm layer height on Bambu X1. You want a very solid shell so that air/noise doesn't escape as easily. PLA material is fine.</li><li>You will need to use supports under the side slotted screw mounts on the sides only. The rest of the muffler will print fine with bridging. I recommend painting-on supports.</li><li>After printing, you can place (glue in) various magnets into the holes. </li><li>Remove the corresponding screws from the back of the printer about where the screw slots are.</li><li>Screw on the muffler with M3 screws.</li></ol><h4>Old Updates:</h4>11/26/22 - Updated to V2 design, different magnet placement and fixed a problem with the screw hole not lining up with the slot.11/25/22 - Initial public design uploaded after many iterations of testing. I have settled on the current “V1” design, which has the following stats:<ul><li>Average dB 12 inches from fan with no muffler = 74dB.</li><li>Average dB 12 inches from fan with muffler = 65dB.</li><li>Chamber temp 1 hour into PLA print with no muffler (22c room temp) = 35c.</li><li>Chamber temp 1 hour into PLA print with muffler (22c room temp) = 36c.</li></ul>Keep in mind, decibels are not a linear scale and 65dB is perceived as much quieter than 74dB. I can confirm this muffler works well so far to moderately reduce volume of the printer. More testing will need to be done to see if the reduction in airflow is substantial enough to cause any problems with printing.

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