niners33

Ydou

There was no suitable wire clip, so I designed my own one. This wire clip is very convenient for clamping, installing, and removing：Card installation with independently designed wire reel buckle<img class="image_resized" style="width: 20.45%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000495670/design/2024-06-15_502eca55dee4d.jpg">The wire buckle is also designed with a rebound structure<img class="image_resized" style="width: 20.47%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000495670/design/2024-06-15_1c54364d0d6e4.jpg">Removing the buckle also has a corresponding loosening area for shaking hands<img class="image_resized" style="width: 20.28%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000495670/design/2024-06-15_7fbdd125fc358.jpg">In short, it is very convenient.

Universal Filament Clip  Universal wire rack

3D printer

GekoPrime

I tried another spool winder but found it finicky and delicate.I designed this winder from scratch to be simple and robust, using the same self reversing leadscrew mechanism found on industrial cable windersWhy pick this model:<ul><li>Prints on a single build plate</li><li>Doesn't require heat set inserts or exotic hardware</li><li>Fusion and STEP files are available, remixes welcomed</li><li>Generous clearances, simple mechanisms</li><li>Designed to be a tool, not a project</li></ul>Print time:<ul><li>~500 grams of filament</li><li>~22 hours on Bambu Lab X1</li><li>~5 minute assembly</li><li>~2 minute spool transfer</li></ul>Hardware requirements:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=608+bearings" rel="nofollow noopener">14x 608 skate bearings</a></li><li>A scrap of PTFE tubing</li><li>An electric screwdriver or drill with <a target="_blank" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-3-5-in-2-Philips-Bit-DWA3PH2MF/309474882" rel="nofollow noopener">a bit cut from ¼ inch hex stock</a> (most <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/ITP1201-SCRWDRVNG-2IN-1-IMPAC/dp/B01LZZ7AOS/" rel="nofollow noopener">cheap quick change Philips bits</a> in the US fit this requirement)</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>Any. I used "0.16mm Optimal" in BambuSlicer with 5% adaptive cubic infill </li><li>Use 100% concentric infill for spindle_male_driven</li><li>Try the STLs if you have a problem with the 3mf files. I’ve added (xN) to each file name so you know how many to print</li></ul>Materials:<ul><li>Any. I used Polyterra and iiidmax PLA+</li><li>Use TPU for tpu_consumable_wiper_blade. I used Priline 98a. The wiper blades aren’t 100% required but they help keep the windings nice and tight</li></ul>Assembly and usage:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/DxgkYDrRK-U" rel="nofollow noopener">Demo video</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/-Hy69YwRLBw" rel="nofollow noopener">Assembly video</a></li><li>The side that says “Pastamatic" needs to face outwards, away from the spool</li><li>The filament needs to come in under the target spool, like this: O____O<ul><li>[not like this: O‾”‾”‾”O]</li></ul></li><li>The drill/driver needs to run clockwise, as though you're screwing something in</li><li>Accelerate slowly until the winder gets started</li></ul>Change log<ul><li>2023-05-28<ul><li>Initial release</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-29<ul><li>Fix a minor export glitch in "leadscrew_tooth"</li><li>Increase the number of “pin_short” instances in the 3mf from 6x to 8x</li></ul></li><li>2023-05-30<ul><li>Add a second prearranged 3mf with two plates to avoid overlap warnings</li><li>Disable autogenerated brims for the single plate 3mf </li><li>Add STLs for people who have trouble with the 3mf</li></ul></li><li>2023-06-03<ul><li>Add a ring to passive_target_cradle to prevent the far end of the target spool lifting if a user lets the the drill hang loose</li><li>Add a pin to driven_target_cradle prevent the leadscrew popping out</li><li>Fix a minor clearance issue where a dovetail didn't fit quite right</li></ul></li><li>2023-09-30<ul><li>Reduce chamfer on the crossbars to prevent them falling over when bed adhesion is poor</li><li>Add some holes to the crossbars to make them easier to screw down</li><li>Add some popular acessories to the all-in-one .3mf</li><li>Add a printable spool to the all-in-one .3mf</li></ul></li></ul>How to contribute:<ul><li>Post your make, it keeps me motivated to improve the model when I see people using it!</li><li>Post your feedback, idea or remix in the comments!</li><li>There are a few improvements and accessories in development as remixes, check those out if you‘re up for the alpha/beta tester experience<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/498743-pastamatic-37-mm-motor-mount" rel="nofollow noopener">Adapter for 37mm gear motor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/556405-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-modifications-bra" rel="nofollow noopener">Source spool holder for 5 KG spools</a></li></ul></li></ul>Credits:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@MiklosKiszely_486882" rel="nofollow noopener">@MiklosKiszely_486882</a> for the original idea</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@PsychoShaft_33891" rel="nofollow noopener">@Psycho Shaft</a> for the drag/tensioner concept</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/@thang010146" rel="nofollow noopener">thang010146</a> for YouTube videos of mechanical mechanisms, particularly the self reversing leadscrew for a level cable winder</li></ul>&nbsp;

Pastamatic  Filament Spool Winder for Bambu X1C/P1P AMS (level winder with self reversing leadscrew)

WimV

<h4>Operation of the lids.</h4>Below is an impression of how the lids work.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/879423bc-338e-4a96-b217-c93394eec243.gif">&nbsp;<h4>Printing</h4>The lid parts.&nbsp;The lids consist of three separate parts that have to be assembled afterwards. The two front parts (part 3L and 3R) are NOT the same! This is because the holes are slotted to achieve the mechanical locking of the lids. Part 3L is marked &#34;L&#34; on the side. Part 1 &amp; 2 must both be printed 2x.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and support everywhere.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/06ba5b49-601e-4c49-af85-9929390ddfc5.jpg">&nbsp;After printing, all support residues must be removed. Do this thoroughly. There is often some extra residue on the axles due to the use of support. If necessary, cut this off so that the shaft becomes as round as possible. Make sure that the ends of the axle are slightly chamfered so that they can be mounted easily.<blockquote>For Part 1: the part with the axle. The axle can break of in use with either poor layer bonding or too much friction in the hinges. Print with 100% infill to enhance strength or use the extra part I added for use with bolt M3 (See bottom of page!)</blockquote>&nbsp;The Knob, Lock and Axle Lock&nbsp;You need 1x the Knob &amp; Lock and 2x the Axle LockFor the different parts and the correct orientation on the bed, see the image below.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/83dde606-05da-4cdf-b374-9037190c9be2.jpg">&nbsp;The Box&nbsp;For orientation on the bed, see the image below.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/030ab77c-c0c4-4206-b724-d56a93e3858a.jpg"><h4> </h4><h4>Assembly</h4>&nbsp;The lids&nbsp;Slide the different parts of the lid together. Pay close attention to the orientation! This is indicated in the image below. Notice that the shafts are pointing upwards! Once pushed together, the recess in the shaft falls over the cam in the opposite part, securing the two parts against sliding apart.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/69942bcb-86ec-41f7-b047-1d0537b76c8e.jpg">Mounting the Knob and Lock&nbsp;See image below. Notice that the axles are pointing downwards.Push the knob through both holes in the lids. Then press the Lock from below over both axes of the Knob. To obtain a firm anchoring, you can first put a drop of glue in both holes of the Lock and then press firmly.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/f1dbece2-8c02-48e2-bed9-fafd3656c26e.jpg">&nbsp;Mounting the Lids on the Box&nbsp;Place both axes of the lids in the holes of the Box. Rotate both lids to create an open Box. Now place both Axle Locks in the holes in both corners of the Box. The round part of the Axle Lock should be facing upwards. You can use a little glue to keep them in place. Be careful not to glue the axles!&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/1d248058-315f-4de7-8a95-4d6a19ca4251.jpg">&nbsp;<h3>Operation of the mechanical lock.</h3>&nbsp;The lock works by interlocking 2 small printed tabs. Due to the rest position of the Knob, which is then vertical, they remain hooked together. By tilting the Knob backwards (which is possible through both slotted holes in the lids) they can unlock and you can open the lids. When closing the lids, you must ensure that the Knob is well pressed and is vertical. To be sure, you can additional tilt the knob towards you. (see video below)&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/20b8ffe3-89e9-48f7-a98b-48e04b6eda40.gif">&nbsp;<h3>Box size and scaling</h3>&nbsp;The size of the Box 200x100x50 (knob not included) was created after a number of test prints for the hinges. I managed to stay within that 200mm, so it can be printed by almost all printers.But nevertheless the Box can be scaled. For FDM printing I would advise not to go below 80%). This already gives a very large saving on material and printing time, while the hinges still remain strong enough. It may be that the hinges are less flexible or operate less smooth due to the layer thickness of 0.2mm. By printing with a smaller layer thickness and/or nozzle, can you probably improve this.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Breaking Axle of part 1 from the lids:</h3><figure class="image image-style-side image_resized" style="width: 36.21%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/2024-06-08_47e7fbfea63f3.jpg"></figure>For this model good layer bonding is essential for the axles. In the past I made a version for use with a M3 bolt to make it stronger (see attached screenshot). Use 2 bolts M3x16. I have added that extra STL file. For the latching mechanism: ensure all, but realy all remnants of supports are removed. Mostly there are a few hard to remove remnants. Use a bore for the holes and a knife for the axles to make them smooth. Use correct temperatures and other settings for the used filament for bonding.

Storage Box with origami folding lids.

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Virality3D

Even though there are already a lot of different Collapsable Katana&#39;s out there, most of them either didn&#39;t work, needed a lot of gluing or they did not appeal to my daughter. So that&#39;s why I have re-created our own replica of Shinobu&#39;s Katana from Demon Slayer including a fitting Katana Stand.&nbsp;Features of this Katana:<ul><li>Multi-color does not require AMS (the parts are separated on different plates so you can print them in different colors easily). There is just one part that has 1 color change at a specific height for use in AMS which give it a nice look if you want.</li><li>Replaceable blades (the Pommel at the end of the handle is removable, so you can easily change blades)</li><li>The handle has multi-color without any gluing → just print the 18 inlays in another color and then insert them into the handle. This way you get the wonderful looking Katana handle without the need of any glue.</li><li>There is a stencil template for putting the cool Chinese letter&#39;s from Shinobu on this blade with ease. I have used a simple black EDDING spray to put them on. This is surely not required but gives a really cool look.</li><li>A fitting Katana Stand is also included.</li></ul>Assembly Guide:<ul><li>The print profile includes all the plates (B) by using 3 colors → PLA Silver, PLA Black and PLA Galaxy (Purple) - my daughter loved those colors, but surely you can adapt as you like. The Katana from the cover image was printed with this exact colors/profile. NOTE: Do not use Silk PLA if you want to play with it (it looks great but does have a very bad Layer Adhesion, thus making the parts break too easily, you may also need additional support when printing).</li><li>All parts should be printed as is, they have been perfectly tested and printed with this profile.</li><li>Especially the blade requires a well calibrated printer. I know many of the easy prints here just work, but they usually use a very simple blade profile with a bigger gap, which may not look realistic. Anyway the 4 blades should print fine together and if they are sticking together slightly, either use some force to push them apart one by one or print them separate. Once you have them separated you can put them in from the back of the handle so they come out one by one at the front of the handle without being too loose so that they don&#39;t fall out - be sure to insert them in the right direction. If the 4 blades should not fit well together you can easily adapt the individual settings for each blade (Objects → Blade 1 to Blade 4) in order to increase or decrease the X-Y hole and/or contour compensation for your printer in order to get them fit together (the settings from this print profile should work well with BambuLab printers - tested on X1C). <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452521/design/2024-05-01_a9680c00f294e.png"></li><li>The only part requiring support is the Tsuba with the &#34;butterfly&#34; design. Removing the support might be tedious, but it&#39;s not a problem because the surface doesn&#39;t need to be perfect. You&#39;ll be gluing the 8 Butterfly inlays over those spots, so the surface won&#39;t be visible anyway. 🤗</li><li>Glue is required for connecting the Tsuba with the handle and the front and for putting the “butterfly” inlays into the Tsuba → So all green parts from the below explosion view (C) need to get glued together. I used normal super glue.</li><li>The back (Pommel) must not be glued and should be a pretty tight fit, so you don&#39;t need to glue it and you are able to replace the blade from the back if it should ever break.</li><li>The diamond inlays for the handle can be bend together slightly (be careful to not bend them too much so they don&#39;t break) so you can snap them into the handle slots one by one - no glue required (A). <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452521/design/2024-05-03_d96946d15050f.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452521/design/2024-05-03_dc5ea1c7de4f7.jpg"> A) Inlay Assembly</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452521/design/2024-05-01_77150d2ac2e3b.jpg"></figure>B) Printing Plates<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000452521/design/2024-05-01_6f1b4ea09af5f.jpg"></figure>C) Explosion View

3D printer

DIY

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