Nikolaus

3Dist

Please, use rubbers for better waterproofing

Gardena coupler | Hose connector

garten

Trek3D6

I created my own smaller base and smoke effect to go with the fire I got from SpankyTaz. I split the design down the middle so I can do filament changes. Then after printing I glued the 2 sides together and pressed it into the base. The base is a tight friction fit and is slightly off-centered on purpose. The smoke drifts to one side so make sure the longer side between the edge and the hole is under where the smoke drift. This helps with the balance. I use these as destroyed markers in World of Tanks. I printed in natural but painted it black because I was out of black PLA. I also used the new "Ironing" feature in Prusa Slicer to have a smooth, no-line finish.<h3> Print Settings</h3>Printer:Prusa MiniRafts: <div>No</div>Supports:NoResolution: <div>0.20</div>Infill:20<h3> Filament: Printed Solid Jessie PLA PLA Safety Orange, Red Ice, Natural Post-Printing</h3>Glued together, pressure fit to the base, then painted smoke a matte black. Finished it off with Matte Clear Coat.Category: Vehicles

Fire & Smoke Marker

Ausbildungsmaterial

Valeria Momo

A hidden place to keep your valuables safe? For a limited time, try this 12x12x12cm cubic shelf with secret compartment! It&#39;s a shelf, so it has a mechanism for attaching to the wall, using 2 screws.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 37.41%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475386/design/2024-05-26_a648b911d524b.gif"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475386/design/2023-11-19_c8d27404379f3.png"></figure><h2>How to assemble it⚙️</h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 38.05%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475386/design/2024-05-26_29bd6cd0a7737.gif"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475386/design/2023-11-19_c8d27404379f3.png"></figure><h2>Commercial License</h2>Do you want to sell prints of this model? You can purchase commercial licensing for this model<a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/ValeriaMomo?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&amp;utm_source=copyLink&amp;utm_campaign=creatorshare_creator&amp;utm_content=join_link" rel="nofollow noopener"> by joining the Commercial License in my Patreon</a>.

Super Mario Hidden Piggy Bank Shelf

one piece 

Baze

3h one for soldering iron tip inserts6h one for 5 soldering iron tips, max length 45mm

Gridfinity soldering iron tip holder

gridfinity

mariandzurus

DRILL HOLDERDržák vrtačky&nbsp;&nbsp;

DRILL HOLDER PARKSIDE

Parkside

future-tech

Hi, my name is wingnutboltholder and i hold bolts.&nbsp;You can use me to screw your bolts into nuts very easily.&nbsp;Makes removing them very convenient, too. To perfectly fit my holes use M6x16 Hexbolt.&nbsp;Have Fun&nbsp;

Flügelgriff-M6 

Reparatur

measterby

This is an external cover for a Truma Gas heater commonly installed in Caravans and RVs. It should be printed in PETG.

Truma Heater Vent Cover

camping

SMichaud

Lot of support for Skadis wall. You need 1 or 2 hooks to hang the brackets on the wallYou can print Hook rail + Test to ensure that both slide well. If it doesn't slide well, you can reduce the scale Hook rail to 97-98%

Skadis Organizer+Hook rail

Ordnung

angry-p1p

This ist my first attempt designing an articulated dratini - no supports and assembly needed.&nbsp;You may have to reduce the printing speed for the pointy ears and make sure you activate brim type “outer brim only” otherwise the lower part of the ears come loose.&nbsp;Default size is 32x150x25mm&nbsp;If you want to sell 3D prints please become a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/angryp1p/membership" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> and start selling :)&nbsp;RAW .stl for non Bambu Users available! <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000147389/design/2024-02-13_9ed7d46333a48.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Multicolor Version:&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 30%"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/147391" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000147389/design/2024-01-19_44230f090875c.jpg"></a></figure>

Articulated Dratini

Pokemon

Martin Kozak

<h3>Model</h3>Print profiles have been divided by color.&nbsp;<h3>Postprocessing</h3><ul><li>Remove supports (some parts have pre-modelled supports, some have slicer supports, some combination of both).</li><li>Use deburring tool to remove sacrificial bridging inside the holes.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/424155/2023-12-30_7f665c461fbba.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Please use 4pcs of M2 screws to join 50163_a (black) and 50163_b (dark grey) parts together. Inner gear must rotate freele in outer ring.</li><li>TPU beams are split into two halfs. Please gluew two and two rods together. Insert filament into center hole to reinforce the connection.</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3><ul><li>See attached assembly guide.</li><li>Due to the printer tolerances and nature of FDM printing, sometimes you'll need to apply more strength to assemble, some parts will be little loose and need a glue to secure it in position and whole drive train will need a lubrication in order to make it work smoothly (PTFE lubrication or silicion oil in spray recommended).</li></ul>See my other upscaled creation:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/114353#profileId-122927" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/114353#profileId-122927</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/133466#profileId-144784" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/133466#profileId-144784</a></li></ul>&nbsp;

Compact Excavator 300 %

Lego

Masamune

A cable safe which does not bend the cable too much and is easy to open again.There're several versions available for different cable lengths. The first Number is the approx. cable length and the second Number the height.You can print these with PLA or PETG and a 0.2 mm layer height. No Supports.I used the Octagram Spiral as Top and Bottom fill pattern.

cable organizer

Kabeltrommel 

Imaginarydave

<h2>Designing this took weeks of work and testing.   Your boosts are an appreciated form of thanks </h2>&nbsp;Update: I added a mirrored version of the bases and the manifold for those that want to mounth this somewhere other than on the printer or for those with a k1 max.&nbsp;Update #2: Enclosure file is up! check it out over at. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584</a><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/2023-12-23_b2f1da0f06987.jpg">Update 3: changed print profile to use glued dowels to hold the two parts together.  I think this will sove the most common problem of getting things to line up.  &nbsp;This solved my biggest beef with day to day use of the printer……. changing filaments. &nbsp; I had a few goals.<ol><li>Be able to load filaments from the front.</li><li>Be able to leave my regularly used filaments in place</li><li>Have a place to hold filament when not in use to keep it from unrolling (you cant see it but there is holder behind each loading spot on the manifold.</li><li>be quiet - ie no rubbing.</li></ol>You&#39;re gonna need a few parts<ul><li>I used 4mm OD, 3mm ID PTFE tube to try to reduce friction. I ordered this stuff. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/46UgvDl" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/46UgvDl</a> (bambu labs 4mm/2.5mm should work but you will definitely need to bevel entry points.)</li><li>PTFE tube connector. I used the Bambu labs one <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector</a> you could also use one of these from amazon <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f</a> . alternatively you could use a single piece of tubing that runs all the way from the extruder to the manifold but I wanted the option to disconnect at the machine.</li><li>8mm x300mm rod. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj</a> alternative link: https://amzn.to/47hFPmF</li><li>M10 push connector for PTFE tubing. I used these <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm</a></li><li>M3 Heat set threaded inserts. I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L</a> but you could just buy M3 size which is the size I use the most for projects like these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3NksT8C" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3NksT8C</a></li><li>Sixteen 608-zz bearings. I use these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4afBenR" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4afBenR</a></li><li>M3 screws. I think I used mostly 10mm, but if you dont have a huge assortment of these already you should so get a variety and figure it out!</li><li>nylon washers I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/41hQDQz" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/41hQDQz</a> 1.5mm thick. but I will also include an .stl file. you should be able to print them.</li><li>I used non slip glass top pads that I had around the house to keep it from sliding around. I am sure many different things could be used. These are what I use and it wont slide at all. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU</a></li></ul>How to do it…. you have to be detail oriented and if you skip any steps or have any rubbing it will cause problems.<ol><li>Print bodies as indicated in file notes.</li><li>While they are printing soak the bearings in denatured alcohol overnight, dry them out and the relube with a light oil like 3 in 1 oil or I used sewing machine oil. you need the bearing to spin like you would want them for a fidget spinner.</li><li>Heat sink the threaded inserts into the holes on the front of the bases.</li><li>using CA glue connect the bases together using the dowels.</li><li>Screw the manifold to the front</li><li>Fit TPU bearing covers over the bearings.</li><li>The fun part…… slowly fish the rods from right to left inserting washers and bearings as you go. there should be a washer on each side. this keeps bearings and rolls from rubbing the sides. The left side of each roller space should have the beveled bearing covers with the sharp edge to the left. in cross section it should look like this. The orientation of bearings on the right doesnt matter. Once they are all in make sure the TPU covers area aligned and not rubbing. they should spin freely.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/92598ce5-25e7-4f56-b434-f6b64c34c06a.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/d7e3122b-9a0d-4954-ab71-f1540a11ec56.png">  </li><li>once you have all 8 pieces through put screw the cover on to hold the rod in place - if you are printing the enclosure you can just leave them off the enclosure will keep the rods from coming out. </li><li>Assemble the manifold.<ol><li>cut 4 pieces of PTFE tube perfectly square and long enough to leave about 2-3 cm sticking out from the top of each loading point. seat them all the way.</li><li>screw the PTFE M10 connector into the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/32e3f901-4987-49f4-bd7e-86cf8341156a.png"></li></ol></li><li>Place a coupler on the end of the PTFE tube coming out of the machine and attach PTFE tubing from that point, through the holders to the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/24be0f7d-c06b-4884-9157-b27d22c1ccd5.jpg"></li><li>PRINT AWAY  </li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;EDIT:&nbsp;DrHO1337 over at printables has some code on his model (found here <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system</a> ) that might make material changes easier for people who want to do simple prints with multiple colors. This model was initially just made for use with single color prints. give it a try. I havent used it. and give the guy a thumbs up over there.&nbsp;here are his instructions:In order to use the slicer correctly, like an AMS, you have to change the filamentchange gcode in the printer settings. The corresponding g-code is in &#34;noAMS.txt&#34;.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/704c2202-1f8e-45e8-8cc8-147f0697874d.webp">  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Bambu Labs MMS (Manual Material System)

bambu 

sassiecat3d

This is the christmas special version! Timme is a T-rex, and he's of a very special species called a Cutasaurus Rex, they are very rare and only lives where theres a 3d printer in site! They love to hangh out on the varm cozy printer and makes sure nobody messes with the prints!&nbsp;*****&nbsp;Important when downloading the design: This is my design and copyight to me sassiecat3d, it's not to be used commercially or resold without my permission, the stl file is under the same clause, not to be re-sold or use commercially without my permission. You are welcome to contact me if you would like to know more. :-) You agree to these terms when you download this file.&nbsp;*****&nbsp;For buying the commercial version where you can print and sell copys of a physical 3d printed version, go here:https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/timmy-the-cutasaurus-christmas-rex-commercial-version

TIMMY THE CUTASAURUS CHRISTMAS-REX

Figuren 

ThreeD-Michael

<figure class="table" style="width:50%;"><table><tbody><tr><td style="border-color:hsl(0, 75%, 60%);border-style:solid;"><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:26.02%;"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/88295" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/254740/2023-12-10_88aadf111f214.jpg"></a></figure>Update 2023-12-10:I added a nice 3-fold stand to this storage system. It has the same bayonet closure as the jars, so that they stand securely. Please download <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/88295" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:40.29%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/254740/2023-12-10_326c2a951e2ab.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;This is the 115mm jar of my new “Stackable Jars” storage system.&nbsp;You can find other jars here:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/80883" rel="nofollow noopener">41mm height</a>,</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/77386" rel="nofollow noopener">60mm height</a>.</li></ul>Description:Beautiful and practical jar for the kitchen, office and workshop. Multiple jars can be stacked and are securely connected to each other using a bayonet closure. The lid uses the same locking mechanism.Convenient size of 75mm diameter and 115mm height (excluding lid).Quick and easy to print with low filament consumption (approx. 26 g for the jar and 10 g for the lid).&nbsp;Usage Instructions:To pair 2 components (jar with jar or lid with jar), turn them clockwise by a small angle until you hear a solid click. Loosening takes place in the opposite direction.&nbsp;Printing Instructions:While the lid is printed "normally", the jar is printed in spiral vase mode with an outer wall thickness of 0.8mm. The standard 0.4mm diameter nozzle usually does not need to be replaced.The strength of the closure is directly dependent on the outer wall thickness of the jar. If the closure is too tight, please reduce the outer wall thickness in the slicer by 2 to 3 hundredths of a millimeter - if the closure is too loose, the wall thickness must be increased accordingly.Please don't be surprised that the jar STL is a solid body - the spiral vase mode automatically hollows it out.&nbsp;Material Selection:While the jar and lid can be perfectly printed with PLA, the stability of the jar can be increased even further if it is printed with PETG - thanks to the higher layer adhesion and flexibility of this filament.

Stackable Jar (115mm version)

Behälter

NitrEX4

As a certified Metal Gear Solid enjoyer, I designed a FAMAS carrying handle for the X-Shot Longshot. Picatinny ofc (2°). Since the carrying handle acts as a big riser, I added a 2° angled picatinny rail.&nbsp;I wanted it to look correct aesthetically, so the sight picture is a tad odd due to the overall height. With both eyes open on a lower profile red dot, your left eye is the one seeing the dot.&nbsp;Bed size: 256 × 256 × 256 mm&nbsp;Print Orientation: I printed this diagonally for my bed size.&nbsp;I printed mine right-side up, which created a lot of support waste. You could try printing it upside down; just be aware that the rail is on an angle.&nbsp;Mounts can be printed with the flat side down.&nbsp;Infill: 5 walls, 40%&nbsp;Hardware: 2x M3x30 , 2x M3 nuts&nbsp;Note: I haven't tested this at an event yet, so I'm not sure how strong the mounts are.